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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The "Glendora Garage"

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
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don long

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Dan
Happy to hear that you got the same storm as I did. Lots of leaves in my yard but no damage no ruts in my driveways either.
Did get a bit of water under the doors of the party garage but it needed a good cleaning anyway because we have special guests coming in on Wednesday from Pasadena.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Dan
Happy to hear that you got the same storm as I did. Lots of leaves in my yard but no damage no ruts in my driveways either.
Did get a bit of water under the doors of the party garage but it needed a good cleaning anyway because we have special guests coming in on Wednesday from Pasadena.
Thanks Don,
Yeah I was really concerned we were going to get very strong winds. Instead we got virtually none. We had a mini hurricane wind way back in 2011 at our Pasadena house that actually blew over a block wall! It knocked down who bunch of trees in the neighborhood too. I THINK I posted those pictures here on GJ but God knows if they're still on here some way.
I see you had good supervision on the job! 🐶
Always! Fifi and little terrorist, Max were on duty....well, when he hasn't barking at passing cars or sleeping in the shade!
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Today was a scorcher too but I did manage to get a couple of hours out in the shop this afternoon.
Yup. It's going to be 100* in Corona today. ONLY - yeah 98* here. Take care if outside Don. Keep a BIG bottle of water with you.
Thought of you yesterday, Dan.
(bought a box of Tapcons ...)
I'm waiting around for the solar people to come today to finalize - yeah, right, like I believe that - our installation and turn it on. Otherwise I'd be going to Home Cheapo to shop anchors for the gazebo.

Anyway, through a variety of missteps, broken tiles, inability to find the right replacements, and company failures it has now been FOURTEEN MONTHS since the installation started!!

I'll look closely at the Tapcons because I've never used them before and Kay has me wondering if my ordinary Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill/driver w/hammer function will work to install them right. I also have an old corded 1/2" Porter Cable hammer drill/driver I could use. I worry if I will be the problem doing it since I've never used them before?

Anyway, if the solar guys don't come til the afternoon I may go ahead to HD and look things over.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Today was a scorcher too but I did manage to get a couple of hours out in the shop this afternoon.
Yeah, I washed the Jeep then mowed & edged the lawns and about sweated myself to death. I looked like a bucket of water had been poured over my head - and all that was while it was ONLY 89 degrees. I keep telling myself not to do anything during heat because of age but my heart tells me I'm still 38 not 68!
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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I'll look closely at the Tapcons because I've never used them before and Kay has me wondering if my ordinary Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill/driver w/hammer function will work to install them right. I also have an old corded 1/2" Porter Cable hammer drill/driver I could use. I worry if I will be the problem doing it since I've never used them before?
Ok so I bought 3/8"x3" Tapcons and they were a pain in the *** and didn't work right for me. At $25/box too.

Below are pics. I drilled the hole using the Tapcon branded carbide-tipped drill as recommended to 1/2" deeper than the bolt, so 3-1/2". Turned out the slab was exactly 3-1/2" which so I drilled through unintentionally. Yes, I marked the hole depth on the bit with tape.

I tried driving the fastener with my Milwaukee M18 and it was quickly apparent it wasn't working so I switched over to my old corded 1/2" Porter Cable Hammer Drill - which I'd had to use to drill the holes tootempImage58im47.png.

One hole predictable cracked the slab because it was right next to a crack control joint. It doesn't show much as it's mostly covered by the base plate. Neither fastener would drive fully no matter what I did. They will be coming out - assuming I can get them out since one is rounded off! And I'll replace them with Redheads.

tempImagepRZZuV.jpg
 

kaymccampbell

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The things you were using to try to set them are not the tool to set them. A hammer drill is not an impact driver. Hammer drills provide longitudinal impacts, not rotary impacts. You need to drive them with an air wrench or electric impact tool.

If they don't go right in, you back them out, run the drill through, blow out the hole, and try again. Some of the bigger ones take a second or third try.

You can actually just set them with a socket and ratchet. For 3/8, you might need a cheater.
 

captain14

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The things you were using to try to set them are not the tool to set them. A hammer drill is not an impact driver. Hammer drills provide longitudinal impacts, not rotary impacts. You need to drive them with an air wrench or electric impact tool.

If they don't go right in, you back them out, run the drill through, blow out the hole, and try again. Some of the bigger ones take a second or third try.

You can actually just set them with a socket and ratchet. For 3/8, you might need a cheater.
This. And use a Ear syringe to blow the dust out of the hole. I’ve seen some of the larger hammer drills kits come with a syringe for the dust.
 

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PugetDude

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Dan, I haven't had any issues with Tapcons. I use a Milwaukee rotohammer to drill the holes (I always drill over depth) and an old Ryobi 18v impact driver to set them.
Looks like you're bottomed out on the hole, could be dust or depth. If you can't get them out, it's a testament to their holding power...

Good luck with plan B.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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The things you were using to try to set them are not the tool to set them. A hammer drill is not an impact driver. Hammer drills provide longitudinal impacts, not rotary impacts. You need to drive them with an air wrench or electric impact tool.

If they don't go right in, you back them out, run the drill through, blow out the hole, and try again. Some of the bigger ones take a second or third try.

You can actually just set them with a socket and ratchet. For 3/8, you might need a cheater.
I have a Horror Fright air impact driver. Two in fact, 3/8" and 1/2" Earthquake ones. I suppose I can try taking out the one that's rounded off and re-driving a fresh one with one of those.
This. And use a Ear syringe to blow the dust out of the hole. I’ve seen some of the larger hammer drills kits come with a syringe for the dust.
I blew out the holes thoroughly with my compressor so there was NO issue with the holes having dust.
Dan, I haven't had any issues with Tapcons. I use a Milwaukee rotohammer to drill the holes (I always drill over depth) and an old Ryobi 18v impact driver to set them.
Looks like you're bottomed out on the hole, could be dust or depth. If you can't get them out, it's a testament to their holding power...

Good luck with plan B.
As I mentioned, I apparently drilled though the slab's full depth so I didn't "bottom out".

To all: WHY don't the instructions say any damn thing about using an impact driver to set these fasteners?! Frustrated the hell out of me and also (of course!) mashed a fingernail against the post from rotational force of the drill! DAMMIT! At that point I was pissed off and just quit for the moment.
 
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Jeff Ivers

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I suppose the worst case - if I can't get the Tapcon out - is I'll cut the mofo's off and move the entire structure over a few inches so they won't show. UGH.
Sorry about your unfortunate introduction to Tapcons. While doing volunteer home repairs, we used a ton of them, usually anchoring decks and ramps and guardrails. As you have learned, a hammer-drill is the proper tool for drilling the holes. Tapcons are very sensitive to the hole diameter. High quality masonry bits are mandatory. I have driven many of the tapcons in using a standard cordless drill/driver, but learned (the hard way) that a cordless impact wrench is superior. Even with all that, sometimes the tapcons snap off. My theory has always been that sometimes your drill bit goes in fine and does not detect any problems, but when the tapcon is driven in and the threads attempt to cut a larger diameter, they encounter a bit of aggregate or rebar that the drill bit skimmed the edge of.

In your case, you appear to be using a larger diameter than we typically used. I would be tempted to drill a new mounting hole through the base plate (even if I had to sacrifice a bit) rather than move the entire structure. I also think a 2" tapcon would be better for your application.
 

kaymccampbell

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I have a Horror Fright air impact driver. Two in fact, 3/8" and 1/2" Earthquake ones. I suppose I can try taking out the one that's rounded off and re-driving a fresh one with one of those.

I blew out the holes thoroughly with my compressor so there was NO issue with the holes having dust.

As I mentioned, I apparently drilled though the slab's full depth so I didn't "bottom out".

To all: WHY don't the instructions say any damn thing about using an impact driver to set these fasteners?! Frustrated the hell out of me and also (of course!) mashed a fingernail against the post from rotational force of the drill! DAMMIT! At that point I was pissed off and just quit for the moment.
Before you go blasting them in with the half inch impact, remember to dial it back a bit. Like the first click. If it doesn't go, back it out, drill and clean at the depth it stuck at. You may have hit large aggregate. And go again.

As an excuse, I do this **** all the time. I've learned the hard way. I honestly assume most folks know more than I do about things. In this case, I assumed you would just normally break out the impact to set something that large in concrete. And know about hammer drill vs impact driver. Sorry.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Before you go blasting them in with the half inch impact, remember to dial it back a bit. Like the first click. If it doesn't go, back it out, drill and clean at the depth it stuck at. You may have hit large aggregate. And go again.

As an excuse, I do this **** all the time. I've learned the hard way. I honestly assume most folks know more than I do about things. In this case, I assumed you would just normally break out the impact to set something that large in concrete. And know about hammer drill vs impact driver. Sorry.
Ok then it's official - IT'S KAY'S FAULT! Ha ha ha.

Yeah they're big. I suppose I could have used 1/4" ones with an oversized washer but natch I chose too big.
 

don long

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Dan
I always walk away from a project gone bad and give it a couple of days to simmer before going back to it. I always have a couple of projects going just for this reason (and my ADD issues) lol.
Take a big breath and a breather on this one

Better luck tomorrow
 

bugnut

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Dan, as an additional armchair quarterback, just make sure your tapcon drops through the hole in the foot that you want to hold down.....good luck
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Thanks for the advice you guys.

Don, Yes I totally agree I have to take a breather sometimes. When I was younger I sometimes got PISSED OFF about a project. If I kept going I'd either make it worse or make it worse AND hurt myself worse, ha ha.

Anyway, started another project that's a helluva lot of labor. If I paid to have it done it'd be a helluva lot of money.v Besides, my dad was a brick mason and I still have all his tools.

We had this lamp post mounted on a brick pier when the patio was built in 2020. Brick matches the piers the patio posts are mounted on. They were there when we moved in.

Decided we will TRY to move the pier to a new location in the yard rather than break it up. First effort with heavy duty tow strap & engine hoist broke top course of brick. Not a big deal because I intend to pour a concrete top on it to match the patio piers.tempImagestJ3zK.jpgtempImageappPCd.jpg
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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The conduit and wires for this lamp post are still useable. I cut the conduit with a pipe cutter made for metal so it wouldn't damage the insulation and pulled them through the conduit so I wouldn't have to have a buried junction box. I temporarily sealed the conduit with duct tape.

I'll extend the conduit & wires to a junction box mounted on the gazebo a foot above ground on the post then extend new conduit to an overhead box where a new light/fans will be.
 
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kaymccampbell

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I’m not a mason, but is that a desired finish on the brickwork or they didn’t even try to clean up the face of the brick after laying it?
That's a common finish for brick work. There's all kinds, from very formal, complex pointing, to extremely rustic finishes. Same deal for bricks. All depends on your taste and wallet.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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I’m not a mason, but is that a desired finish on the brickwork or they didn’t even try to clean up the face of the brick after laying it?

Yes it's a desired finish. The brick isn't "dirty" from a lack of clean work. It's intentionally given a lime wash to simulate the more "used brick" and consistent appearance. I re-posted a pic from way earlier on this thread below.

My father WAS a brick mason back in the day when structures were still built from brick instead of cast concrete or block. In those days there was a difference between brick masons and block masons. Brick masons were supposedly more like finish carpenters - small details mattered more because they were a final finish for both interior and exterior where with block they were frequently painted or covered with other materials.
That's a common finish for brick work. There's all kinds, from very formal, complex pointing, to extremely rustic finishes. Same deal for bricks. All depends on your taste and wallet.
^^Yes, true.

Kay, my father always claimed the plural of brick is "brick" not bricks. He'd correct me if I ever said it. His work was quite impressive. I labored for him on weekends from about age 12 or so. He was in his late 30's, early 40's just a few years from a major heart attack he shouldn't have survived and he could still out work me 10x over.

Of course everyone smoked in those days and of course in the 1950's and 60's he ate an old fashioned Mexican diet with food made with lard. He was getting into his FOURTH pack of cigarettes a day when he had the heart attack at age 45. No clog busting drugs, bypasses, nothing existed in 1970 when it happened.

Here are two pilasters that had to be replaced. You can see they're clean brick right after being built. Then they were washed to match the finish on all the rest of the house.

5642758B_C2ED_461E_B4E7_DB8EB1F9A7C5.jpegF477F6D4-FA57-4909-B48A-09CA4BDC9ADF.jpeg
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Below is from 2020 when we had the patio cover built. The piers for the structure were there when we bought the house. I'm going to try to duplicate the concrete caps on the piers below on top of the pier I am relocating. If it works it'll look like it's always been there. We'll see if I can pull it off.

A looong time since I worked with my dad on weekends! If he'd lived he would have just turned 100 in June of 2023. Rest in Paradise, Dad.
PS: I'm a couple years older now than he was when he passed away. Times have changed a lot.

0B4E74BC-B269-4758-808B-3B7FAC1FDAE5.jpeg
 

PugetDude

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Dan, make your forms out of the cheap melamine coated particle board shelves from HD. Caulk the seams and wipe the excess. Then spray lightly with PAM cooking spray before you pour a stiff pea gravel mix. Vibrate with a jigsaw or sawzall shoe ( no blade) against the the sides.
They will turn out really smooth.
Good luck.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Dan, make your forms out of the cheap melamine coated particle board shelves from HD. Caulk the seams and wipe the excess. Then spray lightly with PAM cooking spray before you pour a stiff pea gravel mix. Vibrate with a jigsaw or sawzall shoe ( no blade) against the the sides.
They will turn out really smooth.
Good luck.
Thanks PD.

Yup, spent years managing design & construction Quality for Metro so I know about form release and vibrating to consolidate. Can't tell you how many times "bug holes" in a finish were an issue from not vibrating sufficiently. Actually, more from congested rebard than from vibrating. Contractor couldn't reach areas!!

I hadn't thought about what to use for a release agent. Was gonna just get something from Home Depot but Pam will be a lot cheaper.

I also hadn't thought yet about how to vibrate the mix but my sawmill shoe is a great idea! Hella cheaper than anything else. Renting something wouldn't even be worth it for such a small job.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Just a peek at today's work. (Because I only took one picture so far!). Extending the electrical from the column mounted lamp to the new overhead light/fans. Since the wires were plenty long enough to make it to a junction box I put one on the backside of a column and will extend them to the overhead box (that I DID install already) but didn't take a picture of yet. Manaña gentlemen.

PS: I'm not an electrician so I knew I wouldn't be able to do a neat job of bending metal conduit like they can. Those guys are amazing. So a combo of electric PVC and some Liquitite allowed me to ALMOST make a neat looking installation. I tell myself once it's all painted white to match no one will notice it's NOT pro looking.

tempImagekrHiqH.jpg
 
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rharman

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Not trying to nitpick, but don't you want that Liquitite to snuggle up to the lower trim some more? Or is that the plan when it's done?

I've done some electrical PVC where I heat gun the pipe and make some gentle bends. It's come out pretty clean - usually.

I hear you on the EMT. I have a project in mind for my garage to extend a circuit to a new location - surface mount. I may just use BX since it won't be worth me buying a bender and wasting EMT trying to get it right. Otherwise, I might try EMT ells and see how cluttered it looks.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Not trying to nitpick, but don't you want that Liquitite to snuggle up to the lower trim some more? Or is that the plan when it's done?
Yeah, that kinda bugged me too. I’ll learn to ignore it. I’d already cut the conduit to 27” and it should have been about 28-1/2” to allow the liquitite to approach the column more perpendicularly. The wood base moulding also prevents it from truly hugging the column, well unless I removed that molding or cut an inch wide kerf in it. No one will see it so I can live with it.
 
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