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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The "Glendora Garage"

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
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Dan in Pasadena

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Snow and Ice weight is real!

We have a large (36") Sycamore in our front yard. I trim the lowest branches with a pole saw as they're about 9' up. Yesterday morning, the lowest was less than 3' from the ground:

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Granted, here in Michigan we're used to winter. I can't image how SoCal copes with it.
We DON'T cope with it. We "Oh me@! Oh my!" it breathlessly.
In normal winters local news puts out headlines about "Storm watch". They're nearly apoplectic about these storms. Supposedly the worst of it for LA is coming later tonight through tomorrow morning.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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If it isn't snow, WhiskeyTangoFox-trot is it?
I read online if it's soft-ish its called "graupel". I'd never heard that word before. Is this a word you midwest and easterners know?

Oh well, whatever it was there was a LOT of it for awhile and it stuck around for about two hours, then rain melted it away.
 

Jeff Ivers

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I read online if it's soft-ish its called "graupel". I'd never heard that word before. Is this a word you midwest and easterners know?

Oh well, whatever it was there was a LOT of it for awhile and it stuck around for about two hours, then rain melted it away.
With regards to "graupel", I have lived my 71 years in Missouri and Oklahoma and heard the word for the first time this year. For those wondering, graupel is sleet except instead of being hard and clear, it is soft and white.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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This morning, February 25, 2023 after it rained all night with no let up. Two pics just so I can tell I took them from our front porch. Google says Glendora is about 750 ft above sea level. Our neighborhood is about 100 ft above City Hall and these hills are a few hundred feet above us. Guessing maybe 1200-1400 above sea level. LATimes.com is showing a local map you can enter city name and see projections for your area. Shows us just under the border for areas that may see snow. Looking pretty accurate.

tempImagenf3aYf.pngtempImagenELlvH.png
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Clouds finally parted. (The eastern guys rolling their eyes and saying, "This rube SoCal guy is all excited over a little dusting of snow") - Yes, you're right that I am.

tempImageX71Xha.png

It's been since 1949 that local got measurable snow. Here's a pic of Pasadena that winter. Looking online it happened VERY occasionally in the 40's & 50's. A bunch of articles asked, "Will it ever snow in Los Angeles again?"90.jpeg
 
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xtremek

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St. Johns, Mi
Clouds finally parted. (The eastern guys rolling their eyes and saying, "This rube SoCal guy is all excited over a little dusting of snow") - Yes, you're right that I am.
Young woman attendent the gym had never seen snow (born and raised in Florida). First light dusting we got, she ran outside and was dancing in it. It was kinda cool to watch her. By the second real snow fall, she was grumbling more the rest of us.
 

Chrisb62

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It's been since 1949 that local got measurable snow. Here's a pic of Pasadena that winter. Looking online it happened VERY occasionally in the 40's & 50's. A bunch of articles asked, "Will it ever snow in Los Angeles again?"
Global warming issues in the ‘40&‘50 ?

Bread, milk, eggs, and alcohol disappear around here at any mention of bad weather.
 

Bob Heine

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Global warming issues in the ‘40&‘50 ?

Bread, milk, eggs, and alcohol disappear around here at any mention of bad weather.
The water aisle empties as well.

When I was a kid in New York we had well water and filled the bathtubs with water when a bad storm was predicted. Milk and eggs were delivered to an insulated box on the front steps twice a week. The Dugan man delivered a fresh loaf of bread and a Danish ring every couple of days. Both deliveries were made using Divco trucks. Dad bought alcohol by the case, also delivered, from the liquor store in town.
 

LeonardY

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@Bob Heine (Forgot to reply to you)
Bob,
Growing up on the west coast, I never saw a storm that caused a run on items. At least I don't remember. My folks always kept water for earthquakes. My mom shopped the ads looking for food on sale. I don't think we would never run out of Spam, Vienna sausages, rice, tomato soup and prune juice. I have no idea about the prune juice because no one wanted to drink it.
My parents grew up in a war zone in WW2. Albeit Hawaii. It definitely set the tone for how they stock piled the pantry. I asked my mom why we bought cases. She said it was less expensive and it was available. It might not be available later. Although I think it was more of a money thing.
If you ever have seen the movie Blast from the past, the scene of Sissy Spacek shopping in the underground storage. Reminds me of my parents garage. Shelves of can food.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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My nephew surprised me with this set of 1951 California license plates. They're in almost perfect condition just cosmetically ugly. Even gave me original chrome frames. though they're "picky" and one is broken. Thinking maybe JB Weld, sanding, filling and chrome-ish paint rather than repop ones.

I've always wanted era-correct plates for my '55 truck. Anyone know if these are commercial plates or if I even need be concerned about that? I know some years had "COM" vertically but I'm unsure which years.

There's an eBay seller who offers restoration kits - basically stick on letters in correct font - but he doesn't offer them for these plates. I'm thinking I can:

1. Take photos and have a print shop make the letters on non-fading vinyl, then sand/paint black, apply yellow letters

2. Do the old style restoration process: paint layers and sanding off over letters.

3. Mask and hand paint or spray letters - but I doubt my ability to make them correct right.

Other ideas & suggestions will be appreciated.
tempImageMJncxc.png
 

kaymccampbell

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My nephew surprised me with this set of 1951 California license plates. They're in almost perfect condition just cosmetically ugly. Even gave me original chrome frames. though they're "picky" and one is broken. Thinking maybe JB Weld, sanding, filling and chrome-ish paint rather than repop ones.

I've always wanted era-correct plates for my '55 truck. Anyone know if these are commercial plates or if I even need be concerned about that? I know some years had "COM" vertically but I'm unsure which years.

There's an eBay seller who offers restoration kits - basically stick on letters in correct font - but he doesn't offer them for these plates. I'm thinking I can:

1. Take photos and have a print shop make the letters on non-fading vinyl, then sand/paint black, apply yellow letters

2. Do the old style restoration process: paint layers and sanding off over letters.

3. Mask and hand paint or spray letters - but I doubt my ability to make them correct right.

Other ideas & suggestions will be appreciated.
tempImageMJncxc.png
You paint the plate black. Then roll on the yellow paint with a hard foam roller. It takes several light coats.

Or, you paint the plate yellow. Then paint it black and then squeegee the black paint off the letters.

I've seen both work quite well. I personally did the roller thing.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Thanks Kay! I've never heard of the roller idea. A "hard foam roller" - are the kind you're referring to @ Home Cheapo or are you talking about something harder than that? I've got a very smooth harass roller that's actually for pressing
formica onto the substrate.

I've got to figure out what color yellow would be right.
 

kaymccampbell

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Thanks Kay! I've never heard of the roller idea. A "hard foam roller" - are the kind you're referring to @ Home Cheapo or are you talking about something harder than that? I've got a very smooth harass roller that's actually for pressing
formica onto the substrate.

I've got to figure out what color yellow would be right.
Mine wasn't the j-roller that you use for laminating, but, if it rolls very easily and smoothly, then it might work. I'd give it a try. My roller was about as hard as the rubber on a drum floor sander. It probably came from a printer. It might even have been slightly rough and porous rubber, but my memory of it says foam. A roller for inking printing blocks would probably do. If it didn't hold the paint well, then a nice sanding with 220 on the orbital sander would probably give it the tooth necessary to hold paint.

For now, I'd just shoot it black with a rattle can, then use a bit of any rattle can yellow to spray the roller, and give it a shot. Remember, that once you perfect your technique, you can do it with a better yellow. My memory of doing it says I sprayed the roller and a bit of Formica with the lettering paint, and rolled the roller over the Formica to distribute the paint evenly, and get a nice even, super thin coat on the roller. Then gently ran the roller over the letters.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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I am sure Don Long could do it for you before lunch time.

How does one time travel to get 1951 plates on a 1955 vehicle?

I'm pretty sure he could too, ha ha.

As for the time travel - not necessary. They used to give you a small metal year tab to bolt on until they issued newer plates in subsequent years. If I understand correctly 1951 was that last year for this. In 1956 the new plates were the same size we use now with the little recess for metallic stickers each year. When I restore these and bolt the tab on I also will have to use another tab for the modern day year sticker.

828A0F07-AB36-4764-95FE-33840CD60326_4_5005_c.jpeg

No matter what you do, Buy a couple of junk plates with embossed letters to practice on.
Good suggestion. I've got a stack of assorted state license plates. I'll pick a crappy one.
 

PugetDude

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There aren't that many letters/numbers- I'd probably spray the background, mask carefully, and then spray the embossed letter/numbers.

Problem with trying to roll the paint is that the license plate isn't completely flat- or the embossment isn't even.
Best way to do it if it was flat would be with a printers brayer.- hard rubber roller that will not hold a lot of paint.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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There aren't that many letters/numbers- I'd probably spray the background, mask carefully, and then spray the embossed letter/numbers.

Problem with trying to roll the paint is that the license plate isn't completely flat- or the embossment isn't even.
Best way to do it if it was flat would be with a printers brayer.- hard rubber roller that will not hold a lot of paint.
I agree the plate isn't flat with just raised letters. It wasn't even when it was new. I'll gently flatten it as best I can but don't expect a huge improvement.

As I mentioned above, I have a hard rubber roller for applying pressure to Formica when gluing it. It MIGHT work for this if I do it very carefully. This is where your "try it out" suggestion will come in.

Also, I don't know where to get this particular color of goldfish-yellow. Someone elsewhere said Duplicolor offers it in a spray can. I suppose I shouldn't do anything to them until I take them to the DMV to see if they're "clear". But I don't even want to do that until I at least get the yellow off the sides - NO idea why anyone would have done that, but oh well.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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PS to Don Long:

I am absolutely sure I don't have the steady hands you have for masking but if I do try masking the letters, what kind of masking tape would be appropriate for the sharp turns I'd need to make? I'm wondering if I should use "striping" tape they sell at Autozone, or is there a professional brand tape I should look for? how about ordinary 3M blue tape and razor blade the letter edges? I've even considered running some Frog tape. I'm CERTAIN that's not something you would do but I'm an amateur and will only do these two plates. Any advice appreciated - including, "Don't do it!" ha ha
 

kaymccampbell

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I bet they coat them face down, to prevent drips n runs and bleeding. If you clamp your roller in the vise, and ink it, then slowly, lightly coast the plate over it, then hang it up face down, I think it'll come out better. I know we like to see stuff we're doing, but I have a feeling about this being the correct way.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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There are rubber rollers that were used for spreading ink on stamps. Or a stencil roller.
Guessing a craft center might have what you're talking about? The issue with rolling any which way is still finding the right color paint!

Lots of options so far. Cleaning is first order of business. Pics to come.
 
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Bob Heine

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Dan, the printing industry calls it a Brayer Roller. Looks like Amazon has a 4-inch roller for around $8 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YDNKSH6/?tag=atomicindus08-20). As Kay said, you want to roll the paint on in very light coats.
4-inch Brayer Roller.jpg
I think the yellow you are looking for is Rustoleum Caterpillar Yellow. It's a little more orange than Schoolbus Yellow. I would paint the plate with a catalyzed black urethane first. If you screw up the yellow, you can wipe it off with lacquer thinner without affecting the black underneath.

Unless you plan to paint a lot of stuff Caterpillar Yellow, I would buy a spray can of the stuff. Spray a coat on a piece of glass and wet the roller. Amazon also has spray cans of Rustoleum Farm & Implement Caterpillar Yellow. Just happens to be on sale at the moment (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1DS2QW/?tag=atomicindus08-20).
Caterpillar Yellow.jpg
 
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kaymccampbell

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Sorry shop term for 2 side or double side sticky tape.
That's a new one on me. Must be a very local term. I have had a measuring tape with Foreman on it, that I got at a little trade show, or inadvertantly stole off the counter somewhere, but it advertised promotional products. It didn't last as long as my HF **** tapes, which contrary to common belief, last as long as anybody else's **** tapes.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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....I would paint the plate with a catalyzed black urethane first. If you screw up the yellow, you can wipe it off with lacquer thinner without affecting the black underneath.
Bob, All excellent suggestions and thanks for the links.

The only thing that might be problematic is the catalyzed urethane suggestion. Yes, I do have a compressor and spray guns - though I never use them. Never have any use for them anymore.

I suppose I could buy one of those catalyzed spray cans though at $30 a can for two license plates it'd be an expensive waste of 7/8 of the can - I'll look around and see if there's anything I can use the remained on!

What I may do is try an ordinary spray can of black on a spare "test" plate and then use the yellow & roller you suggested in various ways to find a technique that works reliably. THEN I'll order the catalyzed spray can.
 

LeonardY

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I searched the garage today for these. They came from my godfathers farm.
1678386020932.png
I have a color scanner that gives me either suggested colors from paint companies or the values to create the color.
For example the color of the orange on the 56 plate CIE Lab values are:

CIELab L 64.5
CIELab a 17.2
CIElab b 66.6

I can give you other values.
 

PugetDude

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Dan, I've been thinking about your plate painting. You've got the small letters and the big numbers and I'm not sure the same method would be optimal for both.

Taking a cue from the GJ Vise Restoration thread, it seems the preferred method of highlighting the raised lettering is to daub the paint on with a cigarette ****. Seems a little crude, but it works really well from the pics. I'd try these on the smaller letters, multiple coats so the paint doesn't build up, run or bleed. Easy to wipe off or touch up with a q-tip dipped in thinner if you overshoot or aren't satisfied.


The larger numbers would be an easy masking job. Roller or dauber if you're not set up to spray.

My local hardware store will custom mix oil-based enamel in smaller cans. Not sure if that is an option there in the PRC.

Good luck.
 
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