To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The "Glendora Garage"

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
WHAT THE HELL??!!

Back in post #388 you can see the old stepstool before I started stripping it with a heat gun. You can see the paint was totally alligatored. I just figured it was a latex paint over an oil based paint without prep.

I stripped the top bare but the rest of the parts were going to be just too much work so I stripped all the red off and sanded the yellow underneath nearly gone but not all the way. These parts were totally smooth and I painted with Rustoleum automotive primer.

As you can see, the primer alligatored. and the. other. areas. look. like they are reacting chemically with whatever the original finish was! Makes me think the yellow is a lacquer?? What say you guys & ladies?

Am I going to have to re-sand the entire thing to get rid of the yellow? It DOESN'T want to come off easily at all. Almost like powder coating, except of course on wood and from the old days!

 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,462
Location
Upstate New York
Too thick a primer coat over a slippery base coat with insufficient or too fine sanding, applied at too high a temperature? Or maybe a crackle medium was applied to the yellow, and it was not fully sanded out before priming.

Sand the **** out of it with 80 or 120 grit, then prime.
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
I don't know. I sanded the **** out of it with 120 grit but on the "What did you do in your garage" thread Harley Jim suggested buzzing the primer off and redoing it with Kilz. Sounds like a winner to me.
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
I agree with Kay and Jim. Sand the **** out of it again with 120 then use the Kilz. lightly. JMHO

Agree. but it's been drizzling here the last two days and I have an appointment tomorrow so It's going to be a few days before I get back to this little project. Wondering how to deal with getting the paint off the dowels?

I don't have a drill press. I DO have a 1/2" drill I might be able to chuck them into to spin for sanding. Might have to use yucky messy paint stripper.:mad:
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Thanks Kay! I've got a gallon of Jasco in my garage already. I don't know if that's "xylene based" or not? It says, "Non-methylene chloride formula" on it - which likely translates to "doesn't work like you wished it would."

I'll see if it does anything tomorrow. If not I'll go hunting for better stuff.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,462
Location
Upstate New York
Thanks Kay! I've got a gallon of Jasco in my garage already. I don't know if that's "xylene based" or not? It says, "Non-methylene chloride formula" on it - which likely translates to "doesn't work like you wished it would."

I'll see if it does anything tomorrow. If not I'll go hunting for better stuff.

Don't be surprised if you need to drive to Vegas to get good stuff.
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Stripped the dowels for the ancient wood step stool I'm refurbishing.

As I posted before there's something weird about this paint. Applied Jasco paint remover and the paint didn't crinkle, it sorta melted!

After 15-20 minutes I scraped the residue off easily with a putty knife and scrubbed the rest off with warm water, dish soap & Scotch Brite pad but it was weird paint whatever it was. The remainder that came off in the sink congealed all together like a giant glob of mucous (sorry for the visual!).

Tomorrow I'll sand them and the heat-stripped parts and Kilz everything multiple coats.


 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Thanks Kay,

Debating painting before or after assembly? I think I'm going to prime all the pieces with Kilz - mask the glue locations, then assemble and finish paint. This stool had brads nailed into all the dowel joints.

ADVICE NEEDED: What's the consensus on TiteBond II glue vs. Liquid Nails HD Construction Adhesive in all the dowel joints? I've found the latter to be strong as hell in other uses.

I'll decide if it'll still need them but since it's wood and probably 40-50 years old I tend to think it will. Of course I'll set/fill/sand all brad locations. Since it will be stood on it HAS to be rock solid.

EDIT: Just back from Home Cheapo. TiteBond III has a little longer working time than the type II and a little higher strength also but it's minor. I decided HD Construction Adhesive is too thick and might interfere with joint fit-up. After a mock assembly of the stool just to make sure I remembered where each dowel went it's obvious if I prime or paint first and start to try gluing & clamping I'm gonna get glue in places I'll need to wipe off or sand off afterward. I'll do the gluing & clamping first then prime and paint after.
 
Last edited:
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Finally got my oldie folding wood step stool project glued up with Tite Bond III (thanks for the recommendation, Kay!).



It takes four hands to fit all the dowels, hold it all together and get the ratchet straps on and tight while the glue wants to run out.

I managed it but had to go around and wipe runoff from each joint. Tomorrow I'm sure I'll have to sand off some glue before I prime the whole thing with Kilz.
 

turbowoodworker

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
3,521
Location
Apex NC
That is where the additional open time of TB III comes in handy. I use TB II mostly out of habit. It has never failed me. But there are times that TB III helps by adding open time. Thanks for sharing this experience.
Rick
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Ok, so I finally re-sanded the failed primer on the stepladder project, re-primed with Kilz and painted with Rustoleum Regal Red.

Not a flawless project but plenty nice considering it literally came off a trash heap.

Here's the "before" again. Joints were all loose and the finish was horrible but structurally all there:

689790CB-0BF4-498A-95A9-50CA7CC9CB50(2).jpg
67C23807-95F2-495A-8C38-4F0B02A7A512(2).jpg

And the "After". The black plastic on the steps is one self adhesive boat trailer step from Harbor Freight cut in half. Not sure the adhesive will hold but if it doesnt I'll just use some little black tacks.

ECCB983F-B79C-4964-96AF-FEFFDCCF5AA4.jpg

474A66A3-9B4E-477D-83DC-B12CA70F9B48.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Shaaarp. I like the red n black. Did you put the braces back on? Those were probably original to it, based the one we had.

Oops! Good thing you reminded me, I’d forgotten about them. Yes, they were original to the stepstool. I even stripped & painted them silver and left them on the bench top. Thanks for the reminder.

Hey Dan, that red and black stool looks great.
What a transformation.

Thanks. Yeah, I may be overdoing the red in my garage but I like it so what the hell!
 
Last edited:
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Another small refurbish project I (sorta) completed. A tree saw I've had for probably 30 years but it was out in the yard shed neglected for years. Neglected so badly the leather scabbard went to hell, had to toss it. Rusty, the handle is plywood and was flaking. Totally my fault:



The reason I said "sorta" completed is you can see I didn't soak the entire blade in phosphoric acid. Didn't have anything long enough. I soaked the two ends in a bucket overnight. It's apparent the center of the blade was wrapped in an acid soaked rag but it didn't remove the rust nearly as well. I may have to redo this later when I figure out what I can use. Maybe a disposable plastic wallpaper soaking tray? Sanded and finished the plywood handle too. Now I need to find a replacement leather scabbard.



 
Last edited:

captain14

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,026
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
How about a heavy trash bag just filled with enough liquid to cover it? Lay the bag in a mortar pan to control any spills?

If you have a thrift store in the area, you may find something big enough there?
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
How about a heavy trash bag just filled with enough liquid to cover it? Lay the bag in a mortar pan to control any spills?

If you have a thrift store in the area, you may find something big enough there?

Maybe a piece of 4" PVC long enough for the whole blade and a glue-on cap?

I do have heavy trash bags. I considered making a tray supported by some spare 2x4's but I noticed the phosphoric acid eats certain kinds of plastics and doesn't touch others. It doesn't touch paint for example. If it gets on concrete, its bleaches it white - no bueno. Of course if I get it on my lawn, it'll kill the grass. I think I'll try it in an area I have gravel.

Bob, I like your idea as a backup. NOT having to buy something I have no use for afterward is the only limitation.
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Hi Don. The tree saw? It'll hang on my pegboard with my other saw I guess. I don't really have enough room to display much. I wish I did though.

Just got through looking in detail at your place. Man oh man, it is a dream factory. I wonder where each of the items came from and when they were last used for their original purpose in the case of tools and equipment? SO inspiring. Kudos to you and your wife for the vision and talent to gather, restore and display it all so nicely.
 

don long

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,842
Location
southern california
Thanks Dan
Your name is sitting on my welcome mat. I've often wondered about the history of some of that old iron you see around my garage too.
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Performed a couple pain in the 'nards jobs today. The solar pool shower I posted about arrived. It's about as I expected. Basically a big ABS tube with a faucet to rinse your feet and a shower head. It comes in two pieces that are screwed together with a giant ring and a big O ring.

Where the garden hose attaches to it, of course it leaks. I SEEM to have fixed that, cut my arm good while pulling the hose, then the faucet works fine but the shower head doesn't really develop na normal shower head pattern. Got frustrated after clearing a spot for it, buying a big stepping stone, drilling, epoxyingvanchors for the cbiolts, bleeding, etc.all the hassle and will give it another look tomorrow.

 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
The next job was assembling a storage thing for pool toys & noodles.



It's just PVC pipe and oddball fittings but the directions are worse than no directions. There were 5 different pipe lengths and six different fittings with lousy descriptions so I just used the bad tiny drawings. I put the screen stuff on it with the seams on the wrong side the first time and had to take it apart. Good thing I didn't glue it - which they don't even tell you should be done! I was probably just too frustrated over the shower fiasco and I was doing it while watching my Dodgers lose their 3rd game to the Cubs.

2DA2FCAD-7F2B-43CB-8E5D-0DF9E1F254A4.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Today's activities:

Sold my 2014 GMC CC 4x4 diesel Denali this morning.



Had 82,000 miles and was in flawless condition. Trucks & SUV's are going for premium prices. Sold it for the same exact price I paid for it almost 6 years ago! I tow maybe 3x a year, don't have my 5th wheel anymore and the post 2010 Duramaxes have the high pressure fuel pump failure issue that I now don't have to spend preventative maintenance money on ($3,000 and up I hear).

The 2017 Wrangler is next. I'll likely get a Gladiator to serve as dual purposemobile. Equipped right it can tow my wakeboard boat, be the RV toad, and be my daily driver. Before you say it, yes they're kinda ugly. I liked them better in pics before I saw them in person but I can transfer the baseplate ($1000+), brake actuator wiring, fog lights (couple hundred), Rubicon wheels & All Terrains plus other bits from the Wrangler.

Besides, the 2017 Wrangler is manual, has manual windows and is total no frills. The "California Edition" Gladiator is automatic, power windows, door locks, reverse camera, Dana 44 axles front & rear, 4.10 ratio, HD brakes, bigger alternator, yada, yada.

Anyway, that's what I'm thinking now. I may cycle in a day or two!
 
OP
D

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,113
Location
Pasadena, CA
Back to the house: I installed a retracting screen door on the single back door. This will allow a nice cross breeze in the afternoon/evenings on the south side of our house.

Kinda spendy but it's a high quality one built to your exact dimensions.

https://casperscreens.com

Lifetime warranty on all the hardware and 3 years on the screen. The only thing is they tell you to measure to 1/16" and I did. The fit was TIGHT! No instructions, no parts list, no picture provided whatsoever. But they put an installation video on YouTube - without telling you!

Anyway, who do they think they're dealing with? I'm a GJ'er, I got this! Didn't even have to curse it into submission and it works good.

 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom