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The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

jonesg

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I wanted to buy a small $200 trailer to haul snowsleds, SALES have been suspended due to tires not meeting DOT regulation, bummer. The do kinda look like donut spare wheels but I'll have to wait and see what they come up with.
 
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jkw.

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I go to Harbor Freight because I can afford it more than "real" brand items. That being said, I do plenty of research before buying something there, just like I would a "real" brand tool.

The free magnetic back lights a super handy. Big pass on those
https://www.harborfreight.com/27-led-portable-worklight-flashlight-67227.html

The free 6 pack of screwdrivers have only been used a few times in the house, so for their intended use of being the "inside screwdrivers", they've been fine.

Free 4" Magnetic bowl-very handy, albeit small. Then again, a few bolts and drill bits aren't that big in the first place.

Various ratcheting clamps 12"-32(?)"-very cheap and useful. I did break the ratching mechanism in 2 of them, 18" and 12", but I do believe more expensive ones would've broken in the same manner. I'll definitely get more and use them

5 mil nitrile gloves are cheap and work just fine. I paint and stain with them.

36 piece horsehair brushes are great for what I use them for and only $2.99. For me, one time use brushes to get in the corners of things with stain.

The free 4 outlet power strip has just a 2' cord, but it is UL listed. I just got tired of unplugging and replugging power tools into the lone extension cord, so this was perfect for me.

The $12.99 1/2" breaker bar and 3/4" deep impact sockets worked perfectly for taking the tires off my car to fix things behind the wheels. The sockets are very sturdy and heavy feeling.

This cordless drill: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-Vo...h-Keyless-Chuck-21-Clutch-Settings-68239.html
It's been abused, ie thrown multiple times out of frustration not due to the fault of the drill, and it refuses to quit working. It does lack "power", but it drives drill bits and screws into wood, which is what I bought it to do.

Double edge Japanese pull saw-not the finest, but once you use a pull saw, you'll have a hard time going back to a standard saw for regular use. I have better ones, but I use this one for the rough stuff and it keeps on cutting.

https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-halogen-shop-light-63180.html
Bright and handy. It does get hot, being a metal outside shell, but common sense will tell the user that.

The el cheapo reciprocating saw was purchased to tear down pallets, and it does that just fine. The blades from HF are fine too. Nothing to complain about here, as this will be the only use for it. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-Amp...-Rotating-Handle-Reciprocating-Saw-62370.html

99 cent for 15 sheet sandpaper is fine. I go through lots of sandpaper when I do pallet projects, so it's nice to have sandpaper in bult to do the ugly work. It's nowhere near as good as 3m with the flex backing, but I don't have to waste the good stuff for ugly work.

2" spring clamps are great and come in very handy for various purposes

I've built many things with Harbor Freight tools and done several vehicle repairs using them. I'd much rather have great, USA made tools, but I also like being able to get things built and fixed while still paying my bills and not accumulating loads of debt. HF gets high marks from me, and the things I've bought there serve the purpose I bought them for. I think that goes with most tools and things in life.

Great post.. like your review on the recip saw, and the drill. I use the 5 mil gloves all the time they are great and hold up well. Couple questions on the drill.. How long have you had it? And does the battery seem to be holding up ok? Does it seem it needs recharging more frequently than when it was new? Thanks for any other info you can provide.
 

jkw.

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Tough to go back thru 447 pages. I skimmed thru the thread but did not see anything on the roller tool boxes. The 56'' long one in particular, probably missed it. Anyone bought one? Have some years on it? Hows it holding up? What do you like besides the price about it? What do you hate and makes you wish you bought something else?
Thanks for any info..
 

jkw.

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originally posted by marc graves
Junior Member

Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: mesa,az
Posts: 7
The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...
QUOTE "i have one of there 56" toolchests,love it cost around 900$ . ive been a mechanic for 18 years.work in a busy shop had it a year , no complaints yet.its full of my heavy line tools,3/4 sockets pry bars,pullers etc.its opened 100s of times a day,not only by me but the lube techs are always borrowing.so under what i call normal use,its holding up well."



Found one.... Old review here.. Anyway 4 years later is it still holding up well?
 
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ndnchf

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Tough to go back thru 447 pages. I skimmed thru the thread but did not see anything on the roller tool boxes. The 56'' long one in particular, probably missed it. Anyone bought one? Have some years on it? Hows it holding up? What do you like besides the price about it? What do you hate and makes you wish you bought something else?
Thanks for any info..

Did you try the "search this tread" function? It makes looking for reviews pretty easy.
 

6PTsocket

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Great post.. like your review on the recip saw, and the drill. I use the 5 mil gloves all the time they are great and hold up well. Couple questions on the drill.. How long have you had it? And does the battery seem to be holding up ok? Does it seem it needs recharging more frequently than when it was new? Thanks for any other info you can provide.
I think those blue freebee, magnet back flashlights are a fail. They used to have a cup magnet in them that was strong enough to hold them. What they did is switch to a tiny magnet that is smaller than a pencil eraser and it is in a metal shell that the magnet holds together. You are looking at the shell, not the magnet. Even if it is neodimium, it is too small for the jobThey can barely hold their own weight and fall off all but a really flat, thick metal surface. Every one I had did not last long. The switch or battery contacts always caused them to flake out. They were good while they worked and had the good magnet. Now they are not worth taking home for free.
On the other hand, the free screw,drivers have stood up far better than expected. I like the "magnetic ashtrays", too. I stubb out my 1/4- 20 cigarettes in them. The alkaline batteries are a pass. I get them when they go on sale. They seem to last well and I have not had one leak. I am looking at the band file (1/2 x 18) hand held belt sander for getting into tight spots for rust removal. Anybody have one?

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jkw.

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There are multiple entire threads on those boxes. Search the forum and a bunch should come up.

Yep thanks, the year is almost 2000 and 18... 99.98% of people who are on forums know how to use the search function after 22 plus years as the internet forums being available to us all. I have my own reasons for asking instead of searching useless "to me" 400 pages of bs. But I did search as you say, before I asked my redundant question, and IMO the multiple threads you say come up, ****. I was not looking for a harbor freight toolbox thread from 2012,2013, 2014 etc etc. Thats only a few years back. Who gives a review of a toolbox they bought 2 weeks ago lol? Lots do on here I know now... That is mostly the info I was not looking for. Thanks for your reply. If anything I learned to keep the search function in the front of my mind.
 
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jkw.

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Did you try the "search this tread" function? It makes looking for reviews pretty easy.
AHH.. You can actually just search "within" a specific thread. I knew that but I didn't really I guess. Thanks, that is good info I have forgot.
 

6PTsocket

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It gets,worse than that,. People write reviews like: " My new *** just arrived. I cant't wait to try it. I am sure it will be great". You can't make this stuff up. I have seen any number of those on Amazon, HD, etc. Amazon censors reviews for all kinds of reasons but not for terminal stupidity.
Yep thanks, the year is almost 2000 and 18... 99.98% of people who are on forums know how to use the search function after 22 plus years as the internet forums being available to us all. I have my own reasons for asking instead of searching useless "to me" 400 pages of bs. But I did search as you say, before I asked my redundant question, and IMO the multiple threads you say come up, ****. I was not looking for a harbor freight toolbox thread from 2012,2013, 2014 etc etc. Thats only a few years back. Who gives a review of a toolbox they bought 2 weeks ago lol? Lots do on here I know now... That is mostly the info I was not looking for. Thanks for your reply. If anything I learned to keep the search function in the front of my mind.

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Viz

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Tough to go back thru 447 pages. I skimmed thru the thread but did not see anything on the roller tool boxes. The 56'' long one in particular, probably missed it. Anyone bought one? Have some years on it? Hows it holding up? What do you like besides the price about it? What do you hate and makes you wish you bought something else?
Thanks for any info..

On the 56" roller bottom tool box: I've had mine for 6 years and have no real complaints (I don't actually move it around). It's more than stout enough for the use I give it and haven't had any issues with it.

I wish some of the deeper, lower drawers were shallower so an extra shallow drawer or two could have been used instead (similar to the 44" roller), especially on the narrower side drawers, but I'm living with it. I may get the side cabinet from the 44" set, even though it's not as deep, for smaller things. That's not a bad option and it's priced right. Of course, as soon as I do, HF will probably come out with a version for the deeper 56" box :(

A side comment about the thread, and searches etc. The detailed data items in posts vary from member to member. Some have the part number, some don't. That, at a minimum, should be in the post, even though HF changes numbers from time to time. It would make searches more inclusive.

At the very least, maybe we should use a simple template in all posts, such as:

Part Number: xxxxxx Item: Left Handed Monkey Wrench Price: $** PASS or FAIL ?????

Viz
 

guitarbutt

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JKW-The battery powered drill is still holding up after about 7 months. The battery probably has gotten weaker, but I also keep it outside (temperature may affect it, I don't know). I wouldn't mind getting a new battery, but a new drill is $16.99 and the battery is $12.99. It's definitely been worth it for me, I use it a lot for drilling holes in wood for screws
 

zendriver

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After purchasing a generator, I was a bit annoyed that the wheel kit has to be purchased separately, plus they were out of stock. Understand why, considering the sale price for the genny, they know they can glom an extra $30 from the purchaser of a 100 pound generator. I was sold just un-boxing it. :rolleyes:



I didn't really look close, but I thought that the wheels, were just the chintzy, hollow plastic wheels, like on kids wagons, or cheap battery chargers, that would probably waste away quickly.



Picked up the kit last night and I have to say, that even though the rims are plastic, they with solid rubber wheels, are quite heavy and look/feel very solid and the rest of the kit components, sturdy steel.



Pass.



https://www.harborfreight.com/engin...-in-never-flat-generator-wheel-kit-61486.html

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zendriver

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We need an installed pic.



f5e6b542232a2bc108ef80cf1c118678.jpg

Only one thing a little silly, there is a warning sticker, but it's on the bottom of the lifting handle, where it can't de seen.

Sleepy Chinese workers! :rolleyes:



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Loose Ctrl

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f5e6b542232a2bc108ef80cf1c118678.jpg

Only one thing a little silly, there is a warning sticker, but it's on the bottom of the lifting handle, where it can't de seen.

Sleepy Chinese workers! :rolleyes:



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:thumbup:
 

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Motorman55

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I purchased the 8750 generator in Feb 2015 along with the 8" wheel/handle kit with a 20% off coupon.

The large wheels have held up no problem as well as the handle assembly. However the small rubber front pads cracked and broke apart this passed Spring. Since the replacement rubbers were not available separately and I didn't want to buy a whole new kit, I ended up replacing the rubber front pads with some rubber ones off my old Craftsman gas engine air compressor.

My generator has been stored under an overhang/car port and kept covered since new which may have had an affect on the rubber.

The kit is well worth the money and I still would give it a pass.
 

guitarbutt

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image_17573.jpg

2 Piece Wrench Rings
Item#37074

These are $2 and are very useful. They're strong and tight (some reviewers complained about them being hard to open, although that isn't a legitimate complaint, as you'd really complain if they opened too easily and made a mess in your tool box. Some people....). I don't see a reason to pay more for such an item. I have some mismatched wrenches that I was wanting to organize somehow and these fit the bill. Major pass
 
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Vette10R

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image_17573.jpg

2 Piece Wrench Rings
Item#37074

These are $2 and are very useful. They're strong and tight (some reviewers complained about them being hard to open, although that isn't a legitimate complaint, as you'd really complain if they opened too easily and made a mess in your tool box. Some people....). I don't see a reason to pay more for such an item. I have some mismatched wrenches that I was wanting to organize somehow and these fit the bill. Major pass
Thanks for the review, I was just looking for something like this. I'm sick of dogging around for my wrenches in my tool bag.

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retDAC

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2 Piece Wrench Rings
Item#37074

These are $2 and are very useful. They're strong and tight (some reviewers complained about them being hard to open, although that isn't a legitimate complaint, as you'd really complain if they opened too easily and made a mess in your tool box. Some people....). I don't see a reason to pay more for such an item. I have some mismatched wrenches that I was wanting to organize somehow and these fit the bill. Major pass
Check before you buy. Some don't line up as well where they close/open.
 

emeraldcoupe

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f5e6b542232a2bc108ef80cf1c118678.jpg

Only one thing a little silly, there is a warning sticker, but it's on the bottom of the lifting handle, where it can't de seen.

Sleepy Chinese workers! :rolleyes:



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have you used the generator yet? how is it?
 

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zendriver

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have you used the generator yet? how is it?



No, I have just started it, just to see if it wwould start and it did on the first pull. Running smooth and quiet.. I have not really had time to check into it further. Probably wait till a power outage :rolleyes:


My "pass" was just for the add on wheel kit.


It looks like it's built solid weighs in about 100 pounds (without fuel), which justifies the wheel kit

There may be some other post in this thread that can give it a pass or fail from actually use.

We'll see.



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emeraldcoupe

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No, I have just started it, just to see if it wwould start and it did on the first pull. Running smooth and quiet.. I have not really had time to check into it further. Probably wait till a power outage :rolleyes:


My "pass" was just for the add on wheel kit.


It looks like it's built solid weighs in about 100 pounds (without fuel), which justifies the wheel kit

There may be some other post in this thread that can give it a pass or fail from actually use.

We'll see.



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thanks. I know the predator engines are good, I've had a couple, and the price of the gen is real tempting
 

Loose Ctrl

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FAIL FAIL FAIL! Staple gun item #93926

I bought this gun to use because my HF air compressor died and my pneumatic stapler died. First this stapler. I was trying to shoot 3/8 inch Arrow stainless steal staples into 2x3 painted wood. It wouldn't set the staples but about halfway, when it would even fire off a staple. I was stapling up chicken wire and made sure not to catch the wire on the staple.


PASS 3-gallon hotdog compressor. I'm not sure of the item number.

Don't expect much and don't push it. Mine lasted 7-years. Every once in a while, I would take the cover off and spray a little oil in the air intake right after starting it up. I always drained the tank after every use. I live in an area with high humidity. What killed it was using it for a few hours straight and allowing it to continuously cycle on and off frequently, without a cool down period or adding and extra spray of oil. I did this for two days. The compressor head died. The motor still runs tho. I will replace it with a fridge/freezer compressor and make it a quiet unit. I mainly used this compressor to top off tires on my vehicles, motorcycles, lawn equipment, blow out carbs after cleaning, and powering my HF staple gun.


FAIL! Crown stapler Item #68029

I have had this gun for two years. I have installed two motorcycle seat covers and attempted to install chicken wire on a wooden pet cage. The problems started after the first stick of 3/8 inch SS Arrow staples. It would miss fire and not send a staple. Eventually, the hammer bar that pushes the staples out would hang up and stay out. I kept the gun oiled well. I broke the included allen keys trying to disassemble it. I used my quality set and finally tore it apart. The frame and head bow when everything is tightened up causing the hammer bar to hang up. I'm sure if I fiddle with it enough, I'll get it to more reliably set staples.
 

JRC3

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I have had this gun for two years. I have installed two motorcycle seat covers and attempted to install chicken wire on a wooden pet cage. The problems started after the first stick of 3/8 inch SS Arrow staples. It would miss fire and not send a staple. Eventually, the hammer bar that pushes the staples out would hang up and stay out. I kept the gun oiled well. I broke the included allen keys trying to disassemble it. I used my quality set and finally tore it apart. The frame and head bow when everything is tightened up causing the hammer bar to hang up. I'm sure if I fiddle with it enough, I'll get it to more reliably set staples.

Just curious if regulate your air pressure. Years ago I had one of the HF crown/brad combo guns and the tongue would stick all the time until it finally broke. (In fact I went through two of those guns) I believe this was before I learned to regulate the pressure for my guns around 90. I'm not saying the gun isn't junk, but I've learned since then how unregulated pressure can even beat up good guns..Especially Bostitch triggers.
 

woodturner9

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Just curious if regulate your air pressure. Years ago I had one of the HF crown/brad combo guns and the tongue would stick all the time until it finally broke.

Yes, good question. His failures sound like misuse, I've had no trouble with those staplers, definite PASS for me.
 

Loose Ctrl

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Yes. My pressure is regulated to 90psi as the compressor is only capable of 100psi. This isn't my first staple gun. It's my first HF staple gun. I believe it's rate at 110psi max. I never had any problems with my other staple gun. It was rated at 135psi. I ran it at 80psi to drive staples into wood and 100psi to drive staples into plastic motorcycle seat pans.
 

JRC3

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Yes. My pressure is regulated to 90psi as the compressor is only capable of 100psi. This isn't my first staple gun. It's my first HF staple gun.
That settles that, then. I went and bought a brand new Bostitch crown staple gun at the pawnshop for $5 more ($30) than the cost of the HF one.
 

Loose Ctrl

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That's likely why you damaged it, then - normal operating pressure for brad nailer or stapler is in the 40 psi range.

I've never ran one that low. Most I have owned or used are between 50 and 135psi. I mostly run them at 90psi. The HF unit lists a working pressure of 70 to 110psi. 90psi seemed to be a good middle ground.

24360562928_0686093a95_c.jpg
 

JRC3

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That's likely why you damaged it, then - normal operating pressure for brad nailer or stapler is in the 40 psi range.
Nah, Nothing worse than forgetting to turn your compressor on and having the pressure fall off. As I recall somewhere around 70psi, maybe even 60 or so, will make even an 18ga brad gun start not setting the brads. The bigger you go like a framing nailer and the results are even more dramatic.
 

cheechi

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You want the working pressure to be 90 psi while the gun is firing. If you set the line pressure to 90 psi right out of the compressor, you don't know what the line pressure actually is at the gun without a gage there, so you have to assume.

set the line to 90 and fire a nail while watching the pressure gage. however much it moves set the line to that so the gun has 90 while working. At that pressure, if you still have more than occasional misfires, it's definitely not the pressure causing it.

40 psi might be ok for a pin nailer but I wouldn't even run an 18ga brad gun that low.
 

Loose Ctrl

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Nah, Nothing worse than forgetting to turn your compressor on and having the pressure fall off. As I recall somewhere around 70psi, maybe even 60 or so, will make even an 18ga brad gun start not setting the brads. The bigger you go like a framing nailer and the results are even more dramatic.





You want the working pressure to be 90 psi while the gun is firing. If you set the line pressure to 90 psi right out of the compressor, you don't know what the line pressure actually is at the gun without a gage there, so you have to assume.

set the line to 90 and fire a nail while watching the pressure gage. however much it moves set the line to that so the gun has 90 while working. At that pressure, if you still have more than occasional misfires, it's definitely not the pressure causing it.

40 psi might be ok for a pin nailer but I wouldn't even run an 18ga brad gun that low.


:thumbup: I agree with both of your posts.
 

Stooge

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Before I go making one, does anyone have any experience with the HF 2000lb engine stands, (pn 69521/69522)? I just picked up a buick straight 8 , which weighs in around 8-900lbs but is about 44" long, so it will be hanging past the legs by a good few inches according the 41" length cited in the stand description. Not opposed to adding some rectangular tubing and another pair of casters to extend the legs a bit, as I would rather modify an existing stand than start from scratch.
 

Loose Ctrl

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Before I go making one, does anyone have any experience with the HF 2000lb engine stands, (pn 69521/69522)? I just picked up a buick straight 8 , which weighs in around 8-900lbs but is about 44" long, so it will be hanging past the legs by a good few inches according the 41" length cited in the stand description. Not opposed to adding some rectangular tubing and another pair of casters to extend the legs a bit, as I would rather modify an existing stand than start from scratch.

I barely trust HF engine stands to hold a small block V8. I would looking into one of those large engine stands with the head that has roller bearings and a hand crank to rotate the engine. I doubt the HF units would even rotate an engine with that weigh and leverage on it.
 

Stooge

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Agreed, the leverage produced from close to 4ft of old engine is the biggest issue. i've been searching to see what the inline 6 Cummins guys are using, as they are in about the same neighborhood as the buick straight 8 in both length and weight. As someone who doesn't really have much of anything from Harbor freight, there were a surprising number of people using the HF ones, but they were also posts from 5+yrs ago. After about the $200 range of heavier duty engine stands, there isn't much available in the middle, before its in the $1000+ range.
 

vette-kid

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I barely trust HF engine stands to hold a small block V8. I would looking into one of those large engine stands with the head that has roller bearings and a hand crank to rotate the engine. I doubt the HF units would even rotate an engine with that weigh and leverage on it.
I had a small block on one for months with no issues. Moved around and rotated just fine.

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Loose Ctrl

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I had a small block on one for months with no issues. Moved around and rotated just fine.

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I had an older one. The head tube was thin and the support tube was small like 1.25 inches. I had a Ford SB351 on it and it was hard to turn, even with the head greased, and the engine would bounce really bad. It didn't take long for me to give it to a friend that did air-cooled VW work. When I was a tech, the man I worked for built his own stands. They were strong. All the steel was at least 3/16 inch thickness. He used a trailer spindle to make the rotating head and used roller bearings. The castle nut had steel bar welded to it for removing it to pull the engine mount out. They were really nice stands but weighed between 150 and 200lbs.
 
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