csp
Well-known member
How can you give a tool a PASS without using it as intended?
Put it to the real test and watch the frame flex as you tighten down the fixture. Not good.
The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
How can you give a tool a PASS without using it as intended?
Put it to the real test and watch the frame flex as you tighten down the fixture. Not good.
sasquach
Well-known member
I have that hole punch / flange tool and have had no problem at all with mine .Some of the **** you guys throw away could you just send it to me .I'm starting to think that some of you try to compare these tools to Snap on or another high quality brand . Remember they are cheap for a reason.
Romanova
Well-known member
Looking at their 8 inch puller for a rear wheel bearing job on my Galant... anyone used this before?
That's probably not a pass, then. The pass is if the tool works as it should, not if it's just barely sufficient to do an easy task that only requires partial capacity.
Regarding the English Wheel, I've seen plenty discussion on how HF Eng Wheels need considerable reinforcement & additional tubing and welding before they're really usable. It's more like buying a do-it-yourself kit than a functional EW (according to my machining prof, and from what I've read online, I don't own one).
At any rate, thanks for the ratings of the HarF swag!
And welcome to the board! 
This is one of the big arguments I have with this thread (that I started). I think functionality should be rated independently of cost. I don't think we should "grade HarF on the curve" just because it's cheap. I think ratings should focus on whether or not the tool does the job it's supposed to do, not how little it cost, or why we should cut it slack, or how we can 'fix' it in order to use it.
The reason I started this thread was to discover what HF items worked well, irrespective of price. And there are plenty of HarF items that meet this criteria.
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Looking at their 8 inch puller for a rear wheel bearing job on my Galant... anyone used this before?
Yes I have it and have used it to change 3 hubs on my land rover and other random pulling tasks. For $8 how can you go wrong?
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I broke a couple of the small pullers pretty easily. The heavy piece I was working on nearly fell on my foot. Definitely not worth it for me. Not worth the aggrevation, higher injury risk, etc to save a few dollars. For simple, easy to remove stuff..I imagine they're fine.
hooptytank
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- Sep 14, 2010
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- 15
I probably got one from a bad batch, got a reversible Matco one now that is unstoppable. I'll probably get another HF one for home, figure I might get lucky this time
I haven't tried any HF guns, and probably never will mainly because I have several already. They may be fine for a weekend warrior and even some techs, but IR guns have never failed to impress me. My newest is the matco branded version of the 2115QTiMAX
. 3/8 drive titanium and composite construction, weighs about 2.5 lbs with a deep socket attached, 300 lbs ft. max, quieter than ANY other revolving air tool I own, and 2 yr warranty. When these tools put food on the table and keep the roof over my head, at about 3X more than the HF one, the price premium is totally worth it to me while it may be overkill to others. Plus the red colored body compliments the US General box finish very well. HF has good and bad points, throwing junk in the recycle skips maybe they best feature, EASY returns. If I buy something remotely questionable as to function, I test it right away and take it back if its not right, and then check the replacements at the store until I get a good one or they give me the money back or store credit or whatever.
I disagree with Bolster, its pointless to grade HF on a Snapon curve. If something works just as well as a Snapon, thats great, but as long as it does the job I want it to regardless of issues, thats OK too.
Using a non impact bit in a impact driver and having it fail, thats just wrong tool for the job.
Keep in mind these cheap, lesser quality HF tools put food on peoples tables by not wasting money on overpriced truck brands when all thats needed is to do maybe ONE job.
I disagree with Bolster, its pointless to grade HF on a Snapon curve. If something works just as well as a Snapon, thats great, but as long as it does the job I want it to regardless of issues, thats OK too.
Using a non impact bit in a impact driver and having it fail, thats just wrong tool for the job.
Keep in mind these cheap, lesser quality HF tools put food on peoples tables by not wasting money on overpriced truck brands when all thats needed is to do maybe ONE job.
sasquach
Well-known member
That's probably not a pass, then. The pass is if the tool works as it should, not if it's just barely sufficient to do an easy task that only requires partial capacity.
Regarding the English Wheel, I've seen plenty discussion on how HF Eng Wheels need considerable reinforcement & additional tubing and welding before they're really usable. It's more like buying a do-it-yourself kit than a functional EW (according to my machining prof, and from what I've read online, I don't own one).
At any rate, thanks for the ratings of the HarF swag!
This is one of the big arguments I have with this thread (that I started). I think functionality should be rated independently of cost. I don't think we should "grade HarF on the curve" just because it's cheap. I think ratings should focus on whether or not the tool does the job it's supposed to do, not how little it cost, or why we should cut it slack, or how we can 'fix' it in order to use it.
The reason I started this thread was to discover what HF items worked well, irrespective of price. And there are plenty of HarF items that meet this criteria.
Then in my opinion you should be buying Snap On or another quality tool . Harbor Freight is a CHEAP version of everyone and nowhere near an equal. Some are better than others but come on if you are shopping HF the you are either to cheap to buy quality or you are just using it at home on occasion .
hooptytank
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EPIC FAIL: their website 
hooptytank
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True, but I only make the trip to HF about 2X a year and i'd probably forget to take it back at tht time, I bought it for 6 or 7 bucks years before on sale and then it just sat. finally decided to take it apart, nothing wrong, decided to modify the air inlet and valve. hissed a lot more but still no power, said screw it and tossed it
HF is one off ramp different on my way home, and sometimes the surface street path from them the rest of the way home is actually faster than my normal off ramp. If it wasn't so convenient, I would be MUCH more selective in what I buy.
As it is, half the categories in the store are items I don't even consider buying, a 1/4 things I look over very carefully before buying or not, and something around a 1/4 are reasonably proven items I buy and recommend to others like floor jacks, evaporust, cherry pickers, the good tool boxes.
I'm going there tomorrow to pick up a box of cheap latex gloves to stop my wife and son from using my good premium nitrile gloves for 5 min household tasks.
hooptytank
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- Sep 14, 2010
- Messages
- 15
Always use a torque wrench for final torque on lug nuts and most fasteners for that matter. These are supposed to get you close, without over-torquing and damaging the fastener. ALWAYS, regardless of gun brand, rattle stick brand or air psi used.
hooptytank
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- Sep 14, 2010
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- 15
Can we stop hijacking the thread now that you beat this into the ground? Go start a Snap On "Pass is the only option" thread.
kc-steve
Well-known member
Wow! At 89 pages I am sure there are duplicates here but I don't have time to read the whole thing. And hope this is new.
I bought a "Professional HVLP Paint Gun" kit for around $70 a year ago. It is currently on sale for $50. I used it recently on a car hood using epoxy primer, filler primer, base coat, and final clear coats (urethane). The user manual is not extensive and therefore my gun "material" settings were on the heavy side causing slight orange peel in the final product. Once I figure out the proper gun settings it should be fine.
If the gun doesn't work well, I reasoned that it could be a good second gun for primer. But this kit is a PASS.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html
When shopping HF for paint guns, BE CAREFUL NOT TO PURCHASE A GUN SPECIFIC TO WATER BASED PAINTS and then use urethane or oil based paints. The result will always be heavy settings causing an orange peel surface.
Steve
I bought a "Professional HVLP Paint Gun" kit for around $70 a year ago. It is currently on sale for $50. I used it recently on a car hood using epoxy primer, filler primer, base coat, and final clear coats (urethane). The user manual is not extensive and therefore my gun "material" settings were on the heavy side causing slight orange peel in the final product. Once I figure out the proper gun settings it should be fine.
If the gun doesn't work well, I reasoned that it could be a good second gun for primer. But this kit is a PASS.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html
When shopping HF for paint guns, BE CAREFUL NOT TO PURCHASE A GUN SPECIFIC TO WATER BASED PAINTS and then use urethane or oil based paints. The result will always be heavy settings causing an orange peel surface.
Steve
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To answer the questions on my post:
I have used the english wheel. Is it a $4000 quality english wheel, no. Does it allow me to smooth out a panel that was beat with a hammer, yes. Does the frame flex, yes. Is it useable for light guage metal, yes. At $160 is anyone going to turn it down even if they have to work with its flaws, no.
The flange/punch tool I took apart and checked everything I could. I felt it wasn't worth my time to play around with it and tossed it.
I take everything I purchjase at harbor freight with a grain of salt. I know it's not of super quality, but does it do what I need it to? I don't need an english wheel to make a fuselage for a p-51. I may need it to make a small patch panel for a firebird so I don't need to use a ton of body filler. I needed that flange/punch tool to flange sheetmetal so I could make a patch panel. I was in the middle of getting the panel fitted up and needed the tool to work. I spent about an hour trying to get it to work and gave up and just manually flanged the panel. The tool didn't work for the intended purpose. By the way, the punch/flange tool was about $50 if I remember correctly, not exactly cheap.
I mostly use these tools in a professional environment. Meening, the tool has to make me money, not cost me money. The tools that I passed will make me money.
I have used the english wheel. Is it a $4000 quality english wheel, no. Does it allow me to smooth out a panel that was beat with a hammer, yes. Does the frame flex, yes. Is it useable for light guage metal, yes. At $160 is anyone going to turn it down even if they have to work with its flaws, no.
The flange/punch tool I took apart and checked everything I could. I felt it wasn't worth my time to play around with it and tossed it.
I take everything I purchjase at harbor freight with a grain of salt. I know it's not of super quality, but does it do what I need it to? I don't need an english wheel to make a fuselage for a p-51. I may need it to make a small patch panel for a firebird so I don't need to use a ton of body filler. I needed that flange/punch tool to flange sheetmetal so I could make a patch panel. I was in the middle of getting the panel fitted up and needed the tool to work. I spent about an hour trying to get it to work and gave up and just manually flanged the panel. The tool didn't work for the intended purpose. By the way, the punch/flange tool was about $50 if I remember correctly, not exactly cheap.
I mostly use these tools in a professional environment. Meening, the tool has to make me money, not cost me money. The tools that I passed will make me money.
sasquach
Well-known member
I beat it into the ground ?I just made a point and no I don't praise the Snap On gds like some do . I was just making a point . Some of the stuff that is being called a fail is just plain nitpicking .
But some of the stuff that is being called a pass, is just plain junk.
LOL, why do you guys use Snap-on as your point of contrast? I guess you didn't understand my post, I said HarF tools should be graded based on their functionality, not on their price. (Snap-on is not the only brand that sells functional tools; there are many cheaper brands that also sell functional tools. Stanley, for instance.)
For the record, I disagree with Danglerb, and the return-it-until-you-get-one-that-works philosophy. In my mind, it's pointless to give passing grades to HarF tools that have to be returned multiple times before you find a functional one, or "fixed" before they can be functional.
However, there are some HarF tools that don't require returns or fixes. That's what this thread was supposed to be about...the quality (ie, functional) tools that could be found at HarF. There are some.
I'm unhappy with the low bar that's been set in this thread, for what a 'pass' is. I don't take 'passes' found here, seriously at all. But, it's not my thread anymore, and that's just my 2¢. Obviously a lot of you guys disagree and that's fine.
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sasquach
Well-known member
Bolster I agree 100% with you . I have some HF tools and they work well . **** I had a cut off tool for about 15 years that worked great even when all the ball bearings fell out it still cut for a few years , not precise but it cut.
racer1735
Well-known member
I agree with the idea that you purchase the product, be it HF or Craftsman or whatever, for its functionality. And, if it saves you some $$ in the process, all the better.
My toolbox is crammed full of Craftsman. Sockets, wrenches, pliers, grips, you name it. As is my compressor. I don't have the need, nor the budget for Matco or Snap-on, as I'm just a home mechanic.
But, for things that are 'nice to have' that enable me to do jobs that otherwise would force me to go to a dealer or shop, HF comes in mighty handy. I have the tire changer with motorcycle attachment, the static wheel balancer, a 3-ton floor jack, a heat gun and I'm in the process of picking up the 1,000 lb. motorcycle lift table.
Like many others, I think about how often I will be using the tool and what kind of usage it will receive. Electric motors aren't something I'd expect to last very long in a HF tool (although many people have had good luck with them). The stuff I get is predominately user powered. With the tire changer, when I assembled it, I inserted my own washers and lock washers, thus eliminating much of the slack that was evident in the pieces. When I assembled the wheel balancer, I put a level to both sides to ensure it was square. I'll do the washer/lock washer routine with the lift table. And when its all done, I have tools that I can count on to do what I intend of them. And, just as my Craftsman stuff, they have, or should, last as long as I'll be using them.
Should they break (it hasn't happened often...to this point just with a 3-ton floor jack that stopped lifting), I take it back and they give me another one without a hassle. Yeah, it involves a 20-minute drive but at least I'm not out or tool or more money.
To sum up, I don't rely on HF as my main tool provider, but it provides me with a very good supplement for what I need to enjoy being a home mechanic.
My toolbox is crammed full of Craftsman. Sockets, wrenches, pliers, grips, you name it. As is my compressor. I don't have the need, nor the budget for Matco or Snap-on, as I'm just a home mechanic.
But, for things that are 'nice to have' that enable me to do jobs that otherwise would force me to go to a dealer or shop, HF comes in mighty handy. I have the tire changer with motorcycle attachment, the static wheel balancer, a 3-ton floor jack, a heat gun and I'm in the process of picking up the 1,000 lb. motorcycle lift table.
Like many others, I think about how often I will be using the tool and what kind of usage it will receive. Electric motors aren't something I'd expect to last very long in a HF tool (although many people have had good luck with them). The stuff I get is predominately user powered. With the tire changer, when I assembled it, I inserted my own washers and lock washers, thus eliminating much of the slack that was evident in the pieces. When I assembled the wheel balancer, I put a level to both sides to ensure it was square. I'll do the washer/lock washer routine with the lift table. And when its all done, I have tools that I can count on to do what I intend of them. And, just as my Craftsman stuff, they have, or should, last as long as I'll be using them.
Should they break (it hasn't happened often...to this point just with a 3-ton floor jack that stopped lifting), I take it back and they give me another one without a hassle. Yeah, it involves a 20-minute drive but at least I'm not out or tool or more money.
To sum up, I don't rely on HF as my main tool provider, but it provides me with a very good supplement for what I need to enjoy being a home mechanic.
subarub4
Well-known member
The only thing about that paint gun kit that you linked is I hear that the paint cup threads can leak? I was think of picking this up when painting my car.
kc-steve
Well-known member
Yeah, that's the "detail" gun threads. I haven't used it but it is just plastic, and the regular paint gun cup has metal threads. Works fine.
Steve
WARNING:
Harbor Freight's new crop of digital calipers are now junk. (design recently changed)
I actually like cheap digital calipers. They're accurate enough for everyday work and fairly inexpensive in case you drop them. (unlike Starrett)
A year ago I bought a 6" set which I'm very fond of and just decided to buy another set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html?p=2
There was a little sticker that said the caliper may be different then the image on the box. The sticker was right. They are now complete junk!!:
- The older set was smooth as silk. The new set has a very rough feel.
- The older set had automatic turn on the instant the calipers were moved. The new set doesn't have this feature despite claiming so in the manual.
- The LCD on the new set has tiny hard to see numbers. The old set's display was much larger and easier to read.
-The new set is silver. It looks like the scale is simply a cheap foil decal. The old set was anti glare black
If you're looking for inexpensive digital calipers go to Ebay or Amazon instead and try and get the older black ones.
Harbor Freight's new crop of digital calipers are now junk. (design recently changed)
I actually like cheap digital calipers. They're accurate enough for everyday work and fairly inexpensive in case you drop them. (unlike Starrett)
A year ago I bought a 6" set which I'm very fond of and just decided to buy another set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html?p=2
There was a little sticker that said the caliper may be different then the image on the box. The sticker was right. They are now complete junk!!:
- The older set was smooth as silk. The new set has a very rough feel.
- The older set had automatic turn on the instant the calipers were moved. The new set doesn't have this feature despite claiming so in the manual.
- The LCD on the new set has tiny hard to see numbers. The old set's display was much larger and easier to read.
-The new set is silver. It looks like the scale is simply a cheap foil decal. The old set was anti glare black
If you're looking for inexpensive digital calipers go to Ebay or Amazon instead and try and get the older black ones.
djb2
Well-known member
I'll second that. The one I bought a month ago looked and felt much cheaper than my previous purchases.
This was one of my favorite H-F tools. It was a very high quality instrument that looked, felt and performed like a top-shelf tool. They were something that you wouldn't hesitate to give as a present, or leave out as desk jewelry.
It's still better than the plastic one they sell for about $10, which works OK but is less precise and feels like a toy. Ironically, the one plastic one that I have gets the most real use because it sits loose in the tool chest drawer.
I think the 4" ones are still nice, but I haven't checked recently.
txz28
Well-known member
I second that PASS. I haven't taken them apart, though... You folks are going to corrupt me.
I had these. They broke before they even hit the first socket. FAIL!!!
hooptytank
Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2010
- Messages
- 15
3X on the junk factor. the lack of automatic turn on is my biggest gripe. Plus has anyone noticed that they are all on when you open the box.
Attachments
x2 on those spotweld cutters
anodyne33
Well-known member
Sunnuva.... I've even asked if they had them. Where in the store can they be found?
subarub4
Well-known member
Funny I should say I saw a seller on ebay local to my area selling some digital calipers for less then HF so I picked it up instead.
No issues so far.
rayzor32
Well-known member
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...s-torque-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html
MASSIVE FAIL!
My coworker has one that he loves that he bought 10 years ago thats still going strong. So I bought one. The first 3 were junk right out of the box, the 4th one worked one time then started ******* out air like the other 3. Whatever they did ***** they need to make them like they used to.
MASSIVE FAIL!
My coworker has one that he loves that he bought 10 years ago thats still going strong. So I bought one. The first 3 were junk right out of the box, the 4th one worked one time then started ******* out air like the other 3. Whatever they did ***** they need to make them like they used to.
Indy_500
Well-known member
mine were broke when i took em outta the package, exchanged and the next pair were broke too
Racr350
Well-known member
Same thing happened to me..decided to try it considering i didnt have a butterfly yet. the 3rd bolt i tried to tighten down, as soon as it "tried" to hammer it just blew air. i gave it to another tech here to have and attempt to fix it and decided to just **** it up and buy a SO. i dont think he ever got it working..
dodge610
Well-known member
I have a small beadblast bussiness i use to buy nozzles from TP tools at like 14.00 dollars a pack found the same nozzles on Harbor Freight for 4.00 a pack they work just as well if not longer these get a big PASS i save big time on these thats what it is all about.
IONH
Well-known member
Sounds like a lack of oil to me. Did you both add oil to your tools before using them? I wouldn't expect you to actually answer no, but feel free to edit your post to remove the FAIL if you didn't and I won't call you out on it.
Air tools aren't rocket surgery for even a cheap manufacturer to make, doubt that 75+% are failures out of the box.
porcupine73
Well-known member
I'll admit, I have purchased a lot of stuff from Harbor Freight. Here's a few from my experience. First the fails:
Oil cans: MAJOR fail, these things are complete garbage
Those metal pry bar sets, the steel is VERY brittle and these things will just about shatter with any amount of force on them
Heat gun. Used it a few times then something went wrong with the motor and it spins like four times faster than it should, sounds like a turbine firing up and like it's going to explode.
The air nailers, have several differnet ones, no problems with any of them, but I don't use them too much.
Semi-wins (so so, good but not great)
The 9.99 plier sets, good for general use but obviously not a high quality high strength tool. Ditto most of the hand tools it seems.
3/4" drive air impact sockets, seem pretty strong.
The nitrile gloves. When on sale for 5.99 or so box/100 not too bad. I tried some 9.99/box from Amazon and they're way better, last longer, don't rip as much, so I'm not buying the HF ones anymore.
The wins:
Inner tie rod end tool, major win, have used it on several Subaru's.
That cheapie air cutoff tool, have used it quite a bit and it works great, I paid $3.99 with coupon
The little air dremel tool is sort of a win, it works great, but they always start to get air leaks after a few uses.
The 2/10/55 amp battery charger, pretty nice, have used many times, bought a 2nd one as a backup
Those little 12V battery maintainers. When on sale for $3.99 these are a bargain.
The Pittsburg ratcheting wrenches, seem quite good.
Fiberglass handled ball peen hammer 5 set, pretty nice, use them quite a bit.
Dead blow hammers.
Oil cans: MAJOR fail, these things are complete garbage
Those metal pry bar sets, the steel is VERY brittle and these things will just about shatter with any amount of force on them
Heat gun. Used it a few times then something went wrong with the motor and it spins like four times faster than it should, sounds like a turbine firing up and like it's going to explode.
The air nailers, have several differnet ones, no problems with any of them, but I don't use them too much.
Semi-wins (so so, good but not great)
The 9.99 plier sets, good for general use but obviously not a high quality high strength tool. Ditto most of the hand tools it seems.
3/4" drive air impact sockets, seem pretty strong.
The nitrile gloves. When on sale for 5.99 or so box/100 not too bad. I tried some 9.99/box from Amazon and they're way better, last longer, don't rip as much, so I'm not buying the HF ones anymore.
The wins:
Inner tie rod end tool, major win, have used it on several Subaru's.
That cheapie air cutoff tool, have used it quite a bit and it works great, I paid $3.99 with coupon
The little air dremel tool is sort of a win, it works great, but they always start to get air leaks after a few uses.
The 2/10/55 amp battery charger, pretty nice, have used many times, bought a 2nd one as a backup
Those little 12V battery maintainers. When on sale for $3.99 these are a bargain.
The Pittsburg ratcheting wrenches, seem quite good.
Fiberglass handled ball peen hammer 5 set, pretty nice, use them quite a bit.
Dead blow hammers.