The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

[onemoretry]

Super pass on the hydraulic ones. I have also used the cheap four wheel caster one, which worked, but these can move a car light nobodys business. I actually have to hold the fenders to slow the car down as I push it.

I am in need of something like this for a jeep with 37" by 12" tires. Does anyone think they will go that big or know of another product that will?

 

[Bo Heck]

I am in need of something like this for a jeep with 37" by 12" tires. Does anyone think they will go that big or know of another product that will?

I would think that your 37s would be too wide to fit on that one. Maybe try searching for a "truck" dolly instead of a car dolly.

 

[dreddybear]

DREDDYBEAR- This one? Does anyone else have this bandsaw? Any good?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762

Sorry for the long delay...yep thats the one. I broke the blade it came with in ten seconds. Got a good blade and it's been rockin for over a year!

 

[troy5118]

Item ITEM 6002-9VGA 3 piece clamp set. Pass with some modifying.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=6002

You can buy 2 of these sets for what one real vice grip costs. The problem is the clamping action has to much slop which lets the 2 faces slip when clamped. To fix this I slightly ground the contact points down and then drilled a hole in all of them through the body for a #8 screw to tighten the slop. Works great

 

[Bo Heck]

Has anyone tried the drill master cobalt drill bits?

 

[oldtools]

Anyone have the pneumatic Roller seat?
Only $20 in my flyer..Hard to beat..Thinking of picking up a couple.

Got one for $15 on sale. Work great. You should use locktight on those nuts holding the wheels. After a while, they can come loose.

 

[sk farmer]

i bought a hf 40 inch roll cab at the fargo store.[yes even nd has a hf] very happy so far. seems every bit as good or better than my cman. will probably get a side box some day. the chest seems ok but not enough drawers for it's size in my opinion . pass on the cab fail on the chest. put your old box on top or get something different.

 

[WSMC633]

i bought a hf 40 inch roll cab at the fargo store.[yes even nd has a hf] very happy so far. seems every bit as good or better than my cman. will probably get a side box some day. the chest seems ok but not enough drawers for it's size in my opinion . pass on the cab fail on the chest. put your old box on top or get something different.

I'm just curious as to what you mean. I have the same Combo and have been very happy with both. Would you have preferred that the bottom double depth drawer was 2 singles? Or do you want more smaller drawers?
Just curious really. I like the deep drawer, It's where I keep my tools that live in Plastic cases. Bearing Removers, Drivers, Compression and leakdown testers etc.

 

[sk farmer]

for my use and personal preferance i like more drawers. the top chest my store carries has only eight drawers. i like to keep most sockets and related items in the top open part.in the drawers of my cman chest starting with top drawers down i have screwdrivers, pliers, vice grips. and then wrenches in racks in the remaining drawers in the narrow deep drawers it is tape measures and misc. with electrical and wiring in the next two drawers. most of my tools didn't have plastic cases or i am not using them so i don't care for the deep drawers. my cman with 10 drawers just fits my needs better. i just think the hf chest would be better suited for most people with more drawers like their cabinet has. hope that answers your question . and also, nice ride. not quite right for my several miles of gravel to the paved road or for checking crops but looks fun anyway.

 

[Bo Heck]

i bought a hf 40 inch roll cab at the fargo store.[yes even nd has a hf] very happy so far. seems every bit as good or better than my cman. will probably get a side box some day. the chest seems ok but not enough drawers for it's size in my opinion . pass on the cab fail on the chest. put your old box on top or get something different.

So youre saying the chest was a fail because it didnt meet your preference in drawer quantity, not the quality of the product?

 

[sk farmer]

correct. the quality appers to be fine and if it meets your needs by all means go ahead. it just seemed to me the top box needs more drawers. i think the drawers are to deep for my needs. if you load your drawers up with pliers ,screwdrivers. and smaller wrenchs like i do than they are too deep. things get lost in the bottom. if you have large boxes and cases to store it may suit you better. just giving my opinion

 

[Bo Heck]

correct. the quality appers to be fine and if it meets your needs by all means go ahead. it just seemed to me the top box needs more drawers. i think the drawers are to deep for my needs. if you load your drawers up with pliers ,screwdrivers. and smaller wrenchs like i do than they are too deep. things get lost in the bottom. if you have large boxes and cases to store it may suit you better. just giving my opinion

nothing wrong with that, just wanted to clarify.

 

[sk farmer]

happy to answer your question. just to clarify what i have, i use a cman 40 inch top, bottom, and side chest, 3 montezuma cpl boxes, several smaller hand and machinist boxes and a hf 40 inch cabinet, i did not purchase the top chest because i did not think it would meet my needs because of it's design

 

[WSMC633]

for my use and personal preferance i like more drawers. the top chest my store carries has only eight drawers. i like to keep most sockets and related items in the top open part.in the drawers of my cman chest starting with top drawers down i have screwdrivers, pliers, vice grips. and then wrenches in racks in the remaining drawers in the narrow deep drawers it is tape measures and misc. with electrical and wiring in the next two drawers. most of my tools didn't have plastic cases or i am not using them so i don't care for the deep drawers. my cman with 10 drawers just fits my needs better. i just think the hf chest would be better suited for most people with more drawers like their cabinet has. hope that answers your question . and also, nice ride. not quite right for my several miles of gravel to the paved road or for checking crops but looks fun anyway.

Fair enough. The cool thing about this forum is everyone works in a different way. So something that works great for me could be an awful fit for you. In my case the deeper drawers work great to keep the blow molded cases etc. in. Though In general I think the plastic cases waste a lot of space, if my bearing pullers etc. weren't in them they just be rolling around in a pile!
In general though for the money I feel like the combo from HF is hard to beat. Solid construction and It gets the job done.
Thanks for the comment on my Bike. That is my pride and joy. At some point I was going to start a thread for it. I know there are a few sportbike folks around here that might appreciate the build. But you're right, tons of horsepower+2wheels+ Racing Slicks + gravel road does not make a good mix!

 

[bochnak]

3/8" Close Quarters Drill - FAIL

Used to drill a 3/4" hole with spade bit in framing. I burned up 2 drilling a total of 5 holes.

 

[thinkracing]

HF portable band saw-FAIL. Burned up after 2 yrs of limited use
3

Ditto on the band saw, but was able to exchange it for new.
Bought a small capacity compressor and it crapped out in the first week - FAIL
Chop saw - PASS after I returned the first one
Aluminum racing jack - PASS
Cherry Picker - PASS but jack sprung a leak after a few years
Engine Stand - PASS and make great rotisseries
Vice - PASS
Anvil - PASS
All tarps - low $$ and PASS
Trailer lights - FAIL
I would avoid most hardware
Pop Rivets - FAIL
O-Rings - PASS
Zip Ties - FAIL, only good for light duty
Hammers of all kinds - PASS
Gloves of all kinds - PASS
95AMP welder - FAILED, spent money on a real one
Auto darkening helmet - PASS
Welding snips - PASS
Welding blanket
Large Blasting cabinet - TBD
Mover's dollies large and small - AWESOME PASS
All jack stands, steel and aluminum - PASS
4 1/2" grinder and grinding wheels - PASS
Measuring devices - calipers/micrometers - PASS
Torque wrenches - PASS
Face Shield - PASS
Leak down tester - PASS
Flaring tool - PASS
brake line tube bender - PASS
Roll around cart - PASS
Roll around stool - PASS
Floor dollie - the kind you lay down on - FAIL, I could not keep the wheels on it.
Car dollies - PASS
Shop rags - PASS
Air compressor hoses and air fittings - PASS
Drill bits - FAIL

I have bought a ton of stuff with more success than failure. I won't buy hand tools from them, but if you shop there enough you start to figure out what to get.

 

[davestonner]

1000 pound hydraulic motorcycle lift: PASS

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91764

works just fine with both of the heavy-ish bikes i have. not the most sophisticated lift around, but it is sturdy enough. if your bike does not have a center stand, the wheel clamp is way too chintzy to hold a bike upright on its own. if that is your case, they have a decent-looking wheel chock (haven't used it, so i don't know how good it is) that could be bolted to the table in place of the wheel clamp.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96349

bought on sale for $340 plus a 20% coupon, and i'm happy with it especially at that price.

Goodyear 50 feet of 3/8-inch rubber air hose: PASS

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2167

What's not to like about this for $22, especially with the constant 20% coupons?

 

[Truxx1956]

Has anybody tried one of their English wheels? I know that if it sounds to good to be true, it usually is, but I thought for occasional use it may be alright? I mean, I cant even buy the materials to build the frame for what this thing costs?

I tried to post a pic, but I cant Anyway, I was lookin at the "heavy duty" one, but the regular one is even cheaper $299 to $599??

Anyone???

 

[beelsr]

it looks like the factory that made them cut a deal with eastwood so eastwood would have sxclusive rights for a year or two and the deal has expired. now, they're flooding them out in HFs. IMO.....

But I haven't used them...

Has anybody tried one of their English wheels? I know that if it sounds to good to be true, it usually is, but I thought for occasional use it may be alright? I mean, I cant even buy the materials to build the frame for what this thing costs?

I tried to post a pic, but I cant Anyway, I was lookin at the "heavy duty" one, but the regular one is even cheaper $299 to $599??

Anyone???

 

[Jim Stabe]

Has anybody tried one of their English wheels? I know that if it sounds to good to be true, it usually is, but I thought for occasional use it may be alright? I mean, I cant even buy the materials to build the frame for what this thing costs?

I tried to post a pic, but I cant Anyway, I was lookin at the "heavy duty" one, but the regular one is even cheaper $299 to $599??

Anyone???

They ****. Stay far - far away. The frame is so flexible it is useless and the wheels are severly out of round and many of the bearings are so stiff you can barely turn them.

Jim

 

[srosa707]

Has anybody tried one of their English wheels? QUOTE]


Ive used a buddies. I would definately brace the top arm to the side arm. It flexes quite a bit. If your not a master fabricator, this will work fine.

 

[ralf-who]

There are no circumstances under which I would use a product sold at HF that spins rapidly or is under enough stress so that a disintegrating piece flies into a part of my body that does not readily regenerate.

Sanding flaps, grinding wheels, die grinders...you get the picture.

When your face needs reconstructive surgery, getting an offshore manufacturer to "make-good" is not going to be a pleasant thing.

I have found, however that their rubber gloves are a fine bargain.

 

[xroad]

There are no circumstances under which I would use a product sold at HF that spins rapidly or is under enough stress so that a disintegrating piece flies into a part of my body that does not readily regenerate.

Sanding flaps, grinding wheels, die grinders...you get the picture.

For that category of tools, ones that spins and can fling stuff or break apart while spinning ..... just because the product have a label that say made in USA, it does not make me feel any safer. I always wear a full face shield. Goggles leaves the rest of my face exposed. Most of us do the same with floor jacks. USA made HW or Chinese made Craftsman jack, we still use jack stands.

 

[RHytonen]

Just a quicky:

<clip>
Cutting discs for 3" cutoff wheel. FAIL made in Russia and prone to fly apart. Get what you pay for but I keep buying them cuz they're there. I have a 3m cutoff wheel green? I got who knows where that's lasted probably 2 or 3 times as long as the hf. Same with their 4.5", unless you find dewalt discs

My experience disagrees.

I have used the cheapest HF 4.5" and 4" cutoff discs (PASS)
in my Makita 4.5" angle grinder for years. The discs don't last long, but are so cheap (about 50cents each) it's well worth it, and not one has flown apart. You need to let the abrasive rather than pressure do the work. Push too hard and you chip the disc.

I bought the cheap straight die grinder and the 3" discs also but haven't tried them yet.

Of course I may be scaring off disaster by always wearing protection.

JME - Rod

 

[tcianci]

I just bought a few things from HF and as usual its a mixed bag

HF Roller stand for table saw/ planer PASS! I like this tool it was about 12 bucks and although simple it does the job. I saw the exact same device at Lowes for more than twice the price.

HF Small steel leg set PASS! I bought this KD leg set for my thickness planer and it is more than adequate for the job. The packaging says it will support 300 lbs and I believe it.

HF mini 1 hp dust collector PASS! I just bought this one and it compares favorably to the Rockler unit that costs 80 bucks more. If you believe the specs at 914 cfm, it moves about a third more air than the Rockler unit and is pretty quiet while doing it. Although the Rockler expandable Dust Right hose would be a welcome addition to any shop.

Pittsburg Forge HF 1/2 inch drive deep 6 point impact socket METRIC. Tentative pass. I havent used them yet but if they're anything like the other impact sockets from HF, they are the buy of a lifetime.

HF automatic compressor drainer kit MISERABLE FAIL!!! A great concept but it falls very short in execution. The kit consists of a pneumatic actuated drain valve for the compressor tank and the fittings and tubing to splice it into the pilot/unloader line between the compressor tank and pressure switch. Here's the rub...The kit claims to have a 1/4 inch NPT street T, a 1/4 inch petcock. a 1/4 inch tube fitting x 1/8 male NPT fitting and 8 feet of 1/4 inch nylon tubing.

In reality, the kit does indeed have the drain valve, petcock and the street T but the 1/4 inch tube by 1/8 pipe fitting is a 6 mm compression tube and the 1/4 inch nylon tube is 6mm polyurethane tube. The instructions tell you to cut the tube between the compressor tank and the pressure switch and install the compression T and run the branch to the drain valve, this all works fine if you happen to have 6mm plastic tubing from your tank to the pressure switch. The tapping on the valve for the plastic line is not 1/8 NPT so you are stuck with using the fitting they give you and using the 6mm tubing. I ended up buying a 1/4 inch compression T, cutting off and machining a piece of the 6mm T and soldering it into the branch of the 1/4 inch compression T. Then I installed this T into the line from the tank to the pressure switch. Once everything was installed, I found the handle of the petcock was just spinning around and would not allow you to adequately shut off the petcock, I removed the petcock, re-staked the handle and re installed...although you could now tighten it, it would not shut off nor would the threaded connection between the petcock and the street T stop leaking even after being re-taped and re-tightened. I chucked the petcock for my original lever operated ball valve drain **** and even now still have the slightest seepage at that threaded connection! The threads in the supplied street T only go in about 3 threads so there is little engagement when you make it up.

So if you are feeling creative and don't mind a little extra time and money spent, this thing actually does work but I really can't recommend it to anyone without a lathe and patience!

 

[Dust]

Pittsburg Forge HF 1/2 inch drive deep 6 point impact socket METRIC. Tentative pass. I havent used them yet but if they're anything like the other impact sockets from HF, they are the buy of a lifetime.

I'm a mechanic, and use these almost daily. They are a great buy. I'd recommend them to anyone who needs an affordable set of impact sockets.

 

[norry]

There's a place around here called Construction Junction that mainly specializes in stuff salvaged from houses being remodeled or torn down. Pretty cool random architectural stuff. Awhile back, HF donated a bunch of stuff from their "Pittsburgh" line... which was kinda funny, considering this IS Pittsburgh!

 

[dirtball]

I was in the need of some c-clamps and I have been looking around for a while for some American made ones that I could afford. Nothing yet Even though I hate buying Chinese tools I saw Harbor Freight was having a sale on some clamps so I said what the hell and bought some. The 6" were $3.49 or something like that.

Check this one out:

I haven't used them enough to tell if they will hold up to some abuse but there aren't 2 out of the 8 that look the same or look like a quality c-clamp. I'm keeping an eye out for some USA ones.

 

[Danglerb]

Buying tools at HF should always include some basic inspection for defects, but you can always take them back and pick out a few good ones. Chances are good some batch of clamps came in, and over a few days the good ones were picked out and the bad ones left behind.

Guys at the the register should do what they do in a grocery store, open each dozen eggs and check for broken etc.

 

[dirtball]

Buying tools at HF should always include some basic inspection for defects, but you can always take them back and pick out a few good ones. Chances are good some batch of clamps came in, and over a few days the good ones were picked out and the bad ones left behind.

I agree. I should have looked them over before buying. I doubt I'll make the trip back just to exchange a couple of them, these will just be my beater clamps.

Guys at the the register should do what they do in a grocery store, open each dozen eggs and check for broken etc.

Wouldn't that be nice!

 

[Chris Adams]

Buying tools at HF should always include some basic inspection for defects, but you can always take them back and pick out a few good ones. Chances are good some batch of clamps came in, and over a few days the good ones were picked out and the bad ones left behind.

Guys at the the register should do what they do in a grocery store, open each dozen eggs and check for broken etc.

Good advice.

Off topic;

What the heck kind of grocery store has the time to check YOUR stuff for cracked eggs?
Just curious. I shop at Costco and Winco and learned to check on eggs when my Grandmother took me shopping... In 1963...
Never had a clerk check for me though.

 

[dirtball]

Off topic;

What the heck kind of grocery store has the time to check YOUR stuff for cracked eggs?
Just curious. I shop at Costco and Winco and learned to check on eggs when my Grandmother took me shopping... In 1963...
Never had a clerk check for me though.

http://www.traderjoes.com/

Not sure if they have them in your area but by far the best prices on eggs (if you don't want to buy 5 dozen) and they always check them for you. I am already in the habit of checking them myself but it's always nice that they do too.

 

[milkovich]

I have used the cheapest HF 4.5" and 4" cutoff discs (PASS)
in my Makita 4.5" angle grinder for years.

That's like putting Cheng Shin tires on a jaguar.

 

[Chris Adams]

Gonna irritate a few but;

Cheap welder, 90 amp 110 volt wire feed welder. PASS.
They sell it for 149, got one at their sidewalk sale for 70 bucks, using sale price and coupon. Used it to do three jobs and dang thing worked great. In fact I decided to get their better MIG unit in 220 volt so I could play around with that.
Didn't keep the 90 amp though, no room for it.
Sold it on Craig's list in one day.
For 100 cash...
Can't get better than that for a cheap welder, I was paid to use it...

Bought their 279 dollar one online, refurbished, for 110...
3 days shipping for 10.99, plus they gave me a 10 dollar gift card.

Can't give a pass or fail on the 220 welder as I haven't really used it yet, just played with it.

 

[Bolster]

Wow, good hustle, Chris. You came out smellin like a rose.

 

[Chris Adams]

Wow, good hustle, Chris. You came out smellin like a rose.

Hey, I wasn't hustling him, the price that day was 149 plus tax, he paid 100.

Me, I would have found a coupon and waited till the sale but he was happy to save the bucks.

 

[HighVoltage]

HF automatic compressor drainer kit MISERABLE FAIL!!! A great concept but it falls very short in execution. The kit consists of a pneumatic actuated drain valve for the compressor tank and the fittings and tubing to splice it into the pilot/unloader line between the compressor tank and pressure switch. Here's the rub...The kit claims to have a 1/4 inch NPT street T, a 1/4 inch petcock. a 1/4 inch tube fitting x 1/8 male NPT fitting and 8 feet of 1/4 inch nylon tubing.

In reality, the kit does indeed have the drain valve, petcock and the street T but the 1/4 inch tube by 1/8 pipe fitting is a 6 mm compression tube and the 1/4 inch nylon tube is 6mm polyurethane tube. The instructions tell you to cut the tube between the compressor tank and the pressure switch and install the compression T and run the branch to the drain valve, this all works fine if you happen to have 6mm plastic tubing from your tank to the pressure switch. The tapping on the valve for the plastic line is not 1/8 NPT so you are stuck with using the fitting they give you and using the 6mm tubing. I ended up buying a 1/4 inch compression T, cutting off and machining a piece of the 6mm T and soldering it into the branch of the 1/4 inch compression T. Then I installed this T into the line from the tank to the pressure switch. Once everything was installed, I found the handle of the petcock was just spinning around and would not allow you to adequately shut off the petcock, I removed the petcock, re-staked the handle and re installed...although you could now tighten it, it would not shut off nor would the threaded connection between the petcock and the street T stop leaking even after being re-taped and re-tightened. I chucked the petcock for my original lever operated ball valve drain **** and even now still have the slightest seepage at that threaded connection! The threads in the supplied street T only go in about 3 threads so there is little engagement when you make it up.

So if you are feeling creative and don't mind a little extra time and money spent, this thing actually does work but I really can't recommend it to anyone without a lathe and patience!

I stumbled across http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/ while checking on this awhile back.

 

[nissan_crawler]

My experience disagrees.

I have used the cheapest HF 4.5" and 4" cutoff discs (PASS)
in my Makita 4.5" angle grinder for years. The discs don't last long, but are so cheap (about 50cents each) it's well worth it, and not one has flown apart. You need to let the abrasive rather than pressure do the work. Push too hard and you chip the disc.

I bought the cheap straight die grinder and the 3" discs also but haven't tried them yet.

Of course I may be scaring off disaster by always wearing protection.

JME - Rod

Actually, I agree with the other guy. After having two chopsaw disks explode and bury themselves in my freaking wall, I won't touch HF abrasives.

I was in the need of some c-clamps and I have been looking around for a while for some American made ones that I could afford. Nothing yet Even though I hate buying Chinese tools I saw Harbor Freight was having a sale on some clamps so I said what the hell and bought some. The 6" were $3.49 or something like that.

Check this one out:

I haven't used them enough to tell if they will hold up to some abuse but there aren't 2 out of the 8 that look the same or look like a quality c-clamp. I'm keeping an eye out for some USA ones.

Check rockler. They had some great deals on JET clamps, not sure if they're still going on or not.

Buying tools at HF should always include some basic inspection for defects, but you can always take them back and pick out a few good ones. Chances are good some batch of clamps came in, and over a few days the good ones were picked out and the bad ones left behind.

Guys at the the register should do what they do in a grocery store, open each dozen eggs and check for broken etc.

VERY good advice. At HF, no tool is the same. Spin the air tools, check hydraulics, etc.

I've gone so far as to purposely buy crappy stuff on sale, then wait for the good pieces to roll in, so I could swap them and get sale price still.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Hose grip pliers - FAIL. I feel like I've used these enough to make a fair assessment, and I really don't like them. They flex too much so they don't provide much grip, and the teeth don't seem to bite into the hose either. On 2 of them the jaws bent.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37909

I thought the exact opposite. They were cheap, and they have done everything I expected and more. I have been quite pleased with them. PASS

 

[r0meyrome]

are the impact sockets you guys are purchasing the Pittsburgh brand?