The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

[bwringer]

I've found the meters turn into random number generators when the internal 9v battery is dieing. Since a replacement battery costs more than a free meter, I just move on to the next one.

Yep. Slap in a reasonably fresh battery and it'll work fine.



Over on a vintage Suzuki forum, a couple of us used to collect these free meters and send them out to people who complained that their bike's electrics didn't work but didn't have a meter for troubleshooting.


See, what they wanted was to post some vague whining about a problem with a 40 year old motorcycle and have someone send them detailed instructions for a quick, easy cheap fix using string and bubblegum wrappers.

These yahoos would get whiny and petulant when we asked for voltage readings or basic troubleshooting, and they usually claimed they couldn't POSSIBLY do all that because they didn't have a meter -- "I don't have money for a meter and time for all that messing with wires! You guys are being mean! Just tell me how to fix this already! My Mom's getting mad, and I'm gonna be late for work at McDonalds"


So a friend of mine got fed up and started offering to send a free meter to any of the whiners who claimed they didn't have one and were too poverty-stricken to possibly buy one.

Some of them got the point and accepted, and we collected and sent out several. In any case, offering a free meter helped shut down the whiners who just wanted to whine instead of facing the realities of owning vintage machinery.

 

[zendriver]

GF wanted her own cordless drill, since she does not like to borrow my tools and when she needs them, she usually does not know where they are (me too).

Picked this up on their BF+ sale - 25 bucks.

Seems well built, solid feel, drills holes in stuff. Surely not as ******** as the more expensive models, but for inside-the-house stuff, it fine.

PASS

https://www.harborfreight.com/18v-lithium-38-in-cordless-drill-kit-64118.html

They still are $25 with a Dec. coupon

 

[bubinga]

GF wanted her own cordless drill, since she does not like to borrow my tools and when she needs them, she usually does not know where they are (me too).

Picked this up on their BF+ sale - 25 bucks.

Seems well built, solid feel, drills holes in stuff. Surely not as ******** as the more expensive models, but for inside-the-house stuff, it fine.

PASS

https://www.harborfreight.com/18v-lithium-38-in-cordless-drill-kit-64118.html

They still are $25 with a Dec. coupon

Sounds Like A good Lady there, Instead Of Playing dumb and getting you to do it, Like the last one I had.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

I don't know if I posted this, but when I travel on my motorcycle, I keep my little red multimeter in my side case along with my tool case just in case I suffer a breakdown. No breakdowns so far but let me forget or misplace a tool and I'll calling someone to come fetch me and the moto.

 

[-->]

FAIL: Red Harbor Freight 7 Function Multimeter

Got it free. It appears to be a random number generator, readings are meaningless. It is actually dangerous if you should make the mistake of using it to check for live circuits.

Also fail. After my meter died a friend gave me one of these. I put it on my car battery to test voltage and the damn pos ( harbor freight meter ) started smoking and giving off that wonderful melting plastic smell. F that!

 

[bubinga]

I don't know if I posted this, but when I travel on my motorcycle, I keep my little red multimeter in my side case along with my tool case just in case I suffer a breakdown. No breakdowns so far but let me forget or misplace a tool and I'll calling someone to come fetch me and the moto.

That's A Good Idea. Do you Have Good & Wheather-Tight "Hard Bags" ? I just have some cheap throw overs so I'd need to seal the meter up good in a zip loc bag. I do have A HF meter floating around here somewhere.

 

[DFB]

I always carry a small multimeter on my motorcycle

Have a couple small ones with protective rubber jackets a UniTrend and Gardner Bender

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9QW620/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NBA8E4/?tag=atomicindus08-20



My all time fave I use to always carry with on my motorcycle was a Radio Shack unit with an integral clam shell hard case. Had two of them over 30 years...all obsolete now

All three of them have audible sound continuity which I really like just makes things quite simple when chasing connections. The HF doesn't.

But I have them all committed to other task at the moment...so the Harbor Freight rode in my side saddlebag all Summer. None the worse for wear. No breaks no damage.

And I actually like the sliding position on/off switch I can leave it on the 20 VDC setting for quick battery measurements. The Uni-T you have to rotate the dial to the center OFF position (I remember how it was battery dead when I got it delivered from Amazon the switch was not in the off position in the package) and the GB is push button so not difficult to have that turn on to in rough transit.

All in all I have a bunch of these all around my garage they all read within 3/10ths of each other at 12volt DC in the 20v range

 

[Loose Ctrl]

That's A Good Idea. Do you Have Good & Wheather-Tight "Hard Bags" ? I just have some cheap throw overs so I'd need to seal the meter up good in a zip loc bag. I do have A HF meter floating around here somewhere.

Only in very heavy rain do I get a teaspoon or so inside my side cases. They are actually trunks I mounted as side cases. They work well. Everything gets put in PVC stuff sacks before going into the cases.


This is my on/off-road traveling bike. My others are around town rides.

Mil-Spec PVC coated stuff sacks I bought several from American Science and Surplus about 4 or five years ago. They're nice and cheap.

 

[bubinga]

I always carry a small multimeter on my motorcycle [emoji106]

Have a couple small ones with protective rubber jackets a UniTrend and Gardner Bender

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9QW620/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NBA8E4/?tag=atomicindus08-20



My all time fave I use to always carry with on my motorcycle was a Radio Shack unit with an integral clam shell hard case. Had two of them over 30 years...all obsolete now

All three of them have audible sound continuity which I really like just makes things quite simple when chasing connections. The HF doesn't.

But I have them all committed to other task at the moment...so the Harbor Freight rode in my side saddlebag all Summer. None the worse for wear. No breaks no damage. [emoji481]

And I actually like the sliding position on/off switch I can leave it on the 20 VDC setting for quick battery measurements. The Uni-T you have to rotate the dial to the center OFF position (I remember how it was battery dead when I got it delivered from Amazon the switch was not in the off position in the package) and the GB is push button so not difficult to have that turn on to in rough transit.

All in all I have a bunch of these all around my garage they all read within 3/10ths of each other at 12volt DC in the 20v range [emoji106]

Sounds like a good Trac record.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[bubinga]

Only in very heavy rain do I get a teaspoon or so inside my side cases. They are actually trunks I mounted as side cases. They work well. Everything gets put in PVC stuff sacks before going into the cases.


This is my on/off-road traveling bike. My others are around town rides.

Mil-Spec PVC coated stuff sacks I bought several from American Science and Surplus about 4 or five years ago. They're nice and cheap.

Nice set up and bike. LOT 0f STORAGE

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[milwaukeephil]

Mil-Spec PVC coated stuff sacks I bought several from American Science and Surplus about 4 or five years ago. They're nice and cheap.

Love American Science and Surplus. I live a few miles from the store and get all my kid's Christmas presents there.

 

[mbshop]

Everything I carried in my bags were sealed in bags and then sealed in trash bags. Never a loss or dirt or water leakage.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Nice set up and bike. LOT 0f STORAGE

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

Thanks and yes, lots.

Love American Science and Surplus. I live a few miles from the store and get all my kid's Christmas presents there.

I've been buying from them since their paper catalogs in the 80's. You're lucky to have one close by. I didn't even know they had store fronts.

Everything I carried in my bags were sealed in bags and then sealed in trash bags. Never a loss or dirt or water leakage.

That's what I used to do it when I traveled on my V Star.


Just came back from a weekend trip to see the T bucket car show in Pigeon Forge, TN. 2013 or 14.

 

[bubinga]

Thanks and yes, lots.





I've been buying from them since their paper catalogs in the 80's. You're lucky to have one close by. I didn't even know they had store fronts.






That's what I used to do it when I traveled on my V Star.


Just came back from a weekend trip to see the T bucket car show in Pigeon Forge, TN. 2013 or 14.

That V star is Nice too, Rode one once. Was smoother Than My sportster.
But my sportster (2002) actually has very little Vibration. Road a fellows 2003 once, (sportster) Mine was Like Night & day compared to the 2003 .
Your V star kind of looks like a fat Bay.
here's My 2002

 

[Loose Ctrl]

That V star is Nice too, Rode one once. Was smoother Than My sportster.
But my sportster (2002) actually has very little Vibration. Road a fellows 2003 once, (sportster) Mine was Like Night & day compared to the 2003 .
Your V star kind of looks like a fat Bay.
here's My 2002

 

[JRC3]

When did HF start selling motorcycles?

 

[DFB]

When did HF start selling motorcycles?

"Compare to Kawasaki , Honda and Yamaha"

 

[bubinga]

"Compare to Kawasaki , Honda and Yamaha"

ok we went OT a little

 

[Loose Ctrl]

We got off on a tangent. Opps. I thought this was the moto lift thread until I checked the thread title. Opps. :tard:

 

[Sweet Old Bill]

Harbor Freight cannot sell Harley-Davidon's, yet. They are NOT made in China!

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Harbor Freight cannot sell Harley-Davidon's, yet. They are NOT made in China!

From my experience lately, quality is about the same.

 

[rooster4321]

Oh but Harley Davidson is made in China in India and Brazil

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk

 

[ChrisLS8]

Harbor Freight cannot sell Harley-Davidon's, yet. They are NOT made in China!

At least Harbor Freight is improving their quality....

 

[zendriver]

Had a Chevy truck bearing job and since Autozone wanted $19 for one 35mm socket, no reason not to spend a few bucks more and get a whole set of HF 3/4" drive impact metric. Turned out to be the right choice, since one hub had a 36mm nut on it.

Nice set - got the job done, comes in a hard case.

PASS

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-Pc-34-in-Drive-Metric-Impact-Socket-Set-67965.html

Just in case, purchased the 3/4" breaker bar. Only used it a bit, (since I used my 1/2" Cman impact with 1/2-3/4 adapter), nothing not to like about it. Solid, very nice finish. I thought there was something wrong with it since the detent ball would not retract, to add a socket, but stupid me, to not realize that it is a quick release breaker bar, so once I figured it out It worked flawlessly.

Pass.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-20-inch-quick-release-breaker-bar-98270.html

FWIW I had a 20% off code and even though it was not new years eve, they gave me an additional 25% so the impacts were $30 and the bar $18.

Fun fact - since the 1st of the year, the price of the sockets have gone from $40 to $43.

 

[JRC3]

Had a Chevy truck bearing job and since Autozone wanted $19 for one 35mm socket, no reason not to spend a few bucks more and get a whole set of HF 3/4" drive impact metric. Turned out to be the right choice, since one hub had a 36mm nut on it.
Nice set - got the job done, comes in a hard case.
Just in case, purchased the 3/4" breaker bar.

I've raged on the non-impact 3/4" socket set and breaker without fail. I had to bounce on it and I weigh about 200#.

 

[Nineeightyone]

HF Hole saw drill bit kit (the small/cheap one) got the job done, but I'm going to fail it anyway.

I wasn't expecting miracles here, but I needed some decently large (~2") holes in a 1x6" piece of wood. Total of 13 holes, diminishing in size but the largest was a little under 2". Kits from higher-end brands (Lennox comes to mind) at the hardware store were spendy, and for a single project, I didn't want to spend a bunch of money.

The pilot bit in my kit seemed to work alright. The design is such that you can swap out the hole saw bits on the pilot bit, which seems to work alright but to properly tighten the saw you chuck the assembly in the drill, put a wrench on it, and hope you don't un-chuck the bit in the process. Or at least that's what I did, I didn't read the instructions.

The hole saws themselves though, seemed to not be very sharp. It took a decent amount of patience to make the holes I was trying to make, which was a little annoying. The saws seemed to "cling" to sawdust, requiring cleaning mid-way through the holes.

My biggest complaint though, despite everything else, was a design issue. Looking at the more expensive brands, there's a nice little slot so you can poke out the "munchkin" of your new wood doughnut. The HF set has a hole on either side, but it's not really big enough to stick much of anything in there and remove the wood.

 

[bubinga]

HF Hole saw drill bit kit (the small/cheap one) got the job done, but I'm going to fail it anyway.

I wasn't expecting miracles here, but I needed some decently large (~2") holes in a 1x6" piece of wood. Total of 13 holes, diminishing in size but the largest was a little under 2". Kits from higher-end brands (Lennox comes to mind) at the hardware store were spendy, and for a single project, I didn't want to spend a bunch of money.

The pilot bit in my kit seemed to work alright. The design is such that you can swap out the hole saw bits on the pilot bit, which seems to work alright but to properly tighten the saw you chuck the assembly in the drill, put a wrench on it, and hope you don't un-chuck the bit in the process. Or at least that's what I did, I didn't read the instructions.

The hole saws themselves though, seemed to not be very sharp. It took a decent amount of patience to make the holes I was trying to make, which was a little annoying. The saws seemed to "cling" to sawdust, requiring cleaning mid-way through the holes.

My biggest complaint though, despite everything else, was a design issue. Looking at the more expensive brands, there's a nice little slot so you can poke out the "munchkin" of your new wood doughnut. The HF set has a hole on either side, but it's not really big enough to stick much of anything in there and remove the wood.

Don't know if it's wort it or not, But could you cut your own slot, or it the material too hard?

 

[Nineeightyone]

Don't know if it's wort it or not, But could you cut your own slot, or it the material too hard?

I haven't tried, by the time I figured out it was going to be an issue I was already on a roll and didn't want to stop haha. I may take a shot at cutting my own slot, or maybe even just drilling a hole in the top of the hole saw part so I can poke something through and beat the wooden munchkin out.

With a little sanding though, those munchkins make great toy car wheels. Might make one for my buddy's kid.

 

[barrybeefburger]

"Compare to Kawasaki , Honda and Yamaha"

Wouldn't they be called Harley davidson

 

[JRC3]

My biggest complaint though, despite everything else, was a design issue. Looking at the more expensive brands, there's a nice little slot so you can poke out the "munchkin" of your new wood doughnut. The HF set has a hole on either side, but it's not really big enough to stick much of anything in there and remove the wood.

Just loosen the nut and Knock the blank out with the arbor. I think it's even easier than trying to pry it.

I've had several of these large and regular hole saws and have been nothing but satisfied with them for the price. Especially when sacrificing it on some HardiBoard around shower valves and shower arms and tub spouts. I usually keep a older set for this and pick up a new set for clean cuts when they are on sale. I love the big set for cutting subfloor around toilet pipes or drywall around 4" fixture boxes or round remodeler boxes. Also use them for cutting out for plumbing on cabinets. They can be a little slow on MDF, but they aren't Milwaukees.

 

[DFB]

I have the same shallow 3/4 drive metric impact set listed above by Zendriver post #9554. It is a decent set and ya the case is really nice but waaay to much wasted space Really should have 34mm make it more complete.

I often contemplate getting the 7pc 62842 axle nut set but I already have 6 of the 7 sizes in 1/2" deep impact, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, as loose stock I bought over the years and added a Herbrand 35mm deep (#PSM835) I found at the flea mkt a couple of summers ago.

The Herbrand has thinner wall, and my each of my 1/2 inch drives deeps are also slightly smaller in overall diameter than the comparative 3/4 drive size. Haven't had opportunity to see if the HF deep 1/2" drive axle nut set is similar in diameter as boxes were all sealed in the store

Maybe get one next season for the tool table

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-Drive-Front-Wheel-Drive-Axle-Lock-Nut-Socket-Set-7-Pc-62842.html

 

[DFB]

Just loosen the nut and Knock the blank out with the arbor. I think it's even easier than trying to pry it.

I've had several of these large and regular hole saws and have been nothing but satisfied with them for the price. Especially when sacrificing it on some HardiBoard around shower valves and shower arms and tub spouts. I usually keep a older set for this and pick up a new set for clean cuts when they are on sale. I love the big set for cutting subfloor around toilet pipes or drywall around 4" fixture boxes or round remodeler boxes. Also use them for cutting out for plumbing on cabinets. They can be a little slow on MDF, but they aren't Milwaukees.

I've passed off dozens of these sets on my tool table along with virtually identical sets of a different brand name. There 2 sized sets IIRC. For what they are any complaints have been non existent on them.

I just used the 5 inch hole saw from this kit Saturday and along with my M12 Fuel drill to bore a large hole thru plywood underlayment as my starting point to go around the toilet flange as I put a new adhesive tiled bathroom floor down for friend.

The big caveat is because they are shallow cup depth 1" maybe not much good for 2x plate stock unless you get at both sides.

But to be fair I did switch drill bits for one from my Blu Mol set as the HF bit from the kit had a bad point

 

[JRC3]

The big caveat is because they are shallow cup depth 1" maybe not much good for 2x plate stock unless you get at both sides.

On existing subfloor and flooring I usually just cut through the first layer, knock out the blank and proceed through the second layer all from up top. These are situations where you may not see all the fasteners and end up cutting through one long ways. Not a bug deal for the price. I think these kits are the best $10 or $17 you can spend. Even cheaper with coupons.

My only complaint is not having a 6" through the years for can lights. Nowadays a 4" remodel box and a disk light is easier and cheaper. Just means more use of the large hole saw set.

 

[bubinga]

I haven't tried, by the time I figured out it was going to be an issue I was already on a roll and didn't want to stop haha. I may take a shot at cutting my own slot, or maybe even just drilling a hole in the top of the hole saw part so I can poke something through and beat the wooden munchkin out.

With a little sanding though, those munchkins make great toy car wheels. Might make one for my buddy's kid.

 

[stonesg]

Had to put new brake lines on a truck I just bought and these did the tubing cuts and double flares with no problem.

If I had to do brake lines more often I'd prefer a bench type flare tool but for the ocasional line, with care this flare tool works fine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=flare

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-1-8-eighth-inch-tubing-cutter-92878.html

 

[emeraldcoupe]

warrior 3" crimped wire cup brush - 60483 - pass https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-crimped-wire-cup-brush-60483.html

used this to strip a core support for my truck. worked fine, didn't explode.


tubing bender- 3755 - pass - https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

bent all the brake lines for my truck, works fine, makes nice bends

 

[bwringer]

Had to put new brake lines on a truck I just bought and these did the tubing cuts and double flares with no problem.

If I had to do brake lines more often I'd prefer a bench type flare tool but for the ocasional line, with care this flare tool works fine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=flare

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-1-8-eighth-inch-tubing-cutter-92878.html

Yep, I used that flare tool set to make double flares for an old Toyota, and... it worked just fine. Nothing broke.

No matter who makes it, that style of tool ***** out loud, mind you -- it's slow and fiddly, but once you get the hang of it you can indeed semi-reliably produce working double flares. And it is indeed far cheaper than any alternative.



I was using NiCopp line, FWIW. I will never, ever again install steel brake lines. Mind=BLOWN. NiCopp makes the impossible... somewhat possible. Revolutionary stuff.

Still, I will try to live my life henceforth in such a way that I do not need to make brake lines for a four-wheeled vehicle in my driveway again. Man, that sucked.

 

[Kenstone1]

Yep, I used that flare tool set to make double flares for an old Toyota, and... it worked just fine. Nothing broke.

No matter who makes it, that style of tool ***** out loud, mind you -- it's slow and fiddly, but once you get the hang of it you can indeed semi-reliably produce working double flares. And it is indeed far cheaper than any alternative.



I was using NiCopp line, FWIW. I will never, ever again install steel brake lines. Mind=BLOWN. NiCopp makes the impossible... somewhat possible. Revolutionary stuff.

Still, I will try to live my life henceforth in such a way that I do not need to make brake lines for a four-wheeled vehicle in my driveway again. Man, that sucked.

Bundy wrap tubing has been used for brake lines by most US automakers.
Bundy tube
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Bundy tube, sometimes called Bundy pipe, is type of double-walled low-carbon steel tube manufactured by rolling a copper-coated steel strip through 720 degrees and resistance brazing the overlapped seam in a process called Bundywelding.

History[edit]
It may be zinc or terne coated for corrosion protection. It is used in automotive hydraulic brake lines in cars manufactured in the US since the 1930s.
The Bundy Tubing Company, started in the US, was bought in the 1980s by what is now the British company TI Automotive.

Kunifer pipe[edit]
A 1969 study by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) recommended the replacement of Bundy tube with 90-10 copper-nickel alloy UNS C70600 (Kunifer pipe) because of corrosion concerns.
[1] Kunifer pipe has since been adopted by European automakers Volvo, Rolls-Royce, Lotus Cars, Aston-Martin, Porsche, and Audi.
[2] Bundy tube still retains the advantage of higher rigidity, which means less volume expansion under pressure.

http://www.bundytubes.com/tube-products/yellow-zinc-plated-double-wall-bundy-tube/

way more than you need to know

 

[bubinga]

Yep, I used that flare tool set to make double flares for an old Toyota, and... it worked just fine. Nothing broke.

No matter who makes it, that style of tool ***** out loud, mind you -- it's slow and fiddly, but once you get the hang of it you can indeed semi-reliably produce working double flares. And it is indeed far cheaper than any alternative.



I was using NiCopp line, FWIW. I will never, ever again install steel brake lines. Mind=BLOWN. NiCopp makes the impossible... somewhat possible. Revolutionary stuff.

Still, I will try to live my life henceforth in such a way that I do not need to make brake lines for a four-wheeled vehicle in my driveway again. Man, that sucked.

Yeah, That line bends nice, I didn't need any type of jig to bend the lines.
But really, I never used one for even steel lines.

 

[57JoeFoMoPar]

I started a thread on it already but the Chief extended cut off tool gets a huge pass. Really powerful, relatively quiet, seems heavy and well-made, and based on the exploded diagrams may well be rebranded AirCat. I'm a fan thus far and very happy with my purchase.