nbpt100
Well-known member
Most pullers need the screw lubricated on any kind of difficult pulley removal. Especially if you need to use an impact. If not, you will ruin it quickly.
The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
Most pullers need the screw lubricated on any kind of difficult pulley removal. Especially if you need to use an impact. If not, you will ruin it quickly.
InsanePyro
Well-known member
Picked up one of these a few weeks ago. Only used it a handful of times but worked flawlessly. Didn't come with any fluid so you're gonna need some of that https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-heavy-duty-long-ram-hydraulic-jack-36396.html
Ton ton
Well-known member
Good catch. I probably would not have caught this dishonesty.
Capsaicin
New member
Merlin High Flow connector set 63546 - pass so far after using for several days.
Seems solidly made, looks spiffy with all the blue and black powder coat, and no leaks when connected to Milton style V connectors.
Really not that much cheaper than a Milton pack from Amazon but I needed it right away ($13.96 for 2 receptacles, 2 male NPT plugs, and 2 female NPT plugs by Milton vs. $8 (w/20% off) for 1 receptacle, 2 male NPT plugs, and 1 female NPT plug from Merlin).
Seems solidly made, looks spiffy with all the blue and black powder coat, and no leaks when connected to Milton style V connectors.
Really not that much cheaper than a Milton pack from Amazon but I needed it right away ($13.96 for 2 receptacles, 2 male NPT plugs, and 2 female NPT plugs by Milton vs. $8 (w/20% off) for 1 receptacle, 2 male NPT plugs, and 1 female NPT plug from Merlin).
Good to know. Upgraded all mine to the Milton.
Do you know if the male Merlins fit into the female Miltons?
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Capsaicin
New member
Capsaicin
New member
Palm nailer 64270 - PASS but holy bleep has the price gone up! Worth every penny of the $19.99 I paid (at regular price, even! used the 20% coupon on a 100' hose) back in February. Wouldn't be quite as eager to pay the current $34.99 tag.
Put up 50 feet of fencing and it made short work of nailing the pickets to the crossmembers with 1-1/2" nails. Reasonably ergonomic, if a little fussy about hand placement. I tend to be slightly cautious and sacrifice a little speed to make sure things are done right and found it worked well to give a single hit to set the nail in place straight, then apply pressure with my palm to drive the nail home.
Put up 50 feet of fencing and it made short work of nailing the pickets to the crossmembers with 1-1/2" nails. Reasonably ergonomic, if a little fussy about hand placement. I tend to be slightly cautious and sacrifice a little speed to make sure things are done right and found it worked well to give a single hit to set the nail in place straight, then apply pressure with my palm to drive the nail home.
Cryptic1911
Well-known member
Icon 3/8" 40-200 inch/lb torque wrench #56614 - PASS. Quality is really nice.. better than my usa craftsman torque wrenches. nice solid clicks, good engagement of the locking collar and the marks line up nicely.
DGersic
Well-known member
metlmunchr
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2011
- Messages
- 1,278
HF 3hp replacement compressor pump #67697 is a strong pass so far.
I bought it to replace the pump on a Sears 3hp compressor I bought in 77 or 78, back before the lying about horsepower started, so the old compressor has an actual 16 amp 240V 3hp motor.
The pump has 20-30 hours of actual run time on it now. The compressor has a 20 gal tank, and the pump will refill from 95 to 125 psi consistently in 25 seconds when running at the recommended 1050 RPM. Doing the calculation for CFM shows that the pump is delivering 13 CFM which is well in excess of their stated 10 CFM @ 90 psi. The motor is pulling 14.4 amps at cutout pressure, so it's not overloaded.
The pump is significantly quieter than the original. Attributable to an actual air filter as opposed to the original which had a couple small pieces of foam over the intake ports. The intake is a pipe thread connection, so it would be simple to pipe it to a remote intake if further noise reduction is wanted.
A lot of the time so far has been spent running a palm type DA sander where the compressor runs continuously for 30 minutes or more. At that point, you don't want to lay your hand on the head, but the jugs are still cool enough to touch without getting burned. The fan section of the pump pulley moves at least twice as much air as the original (Devilbiss) pump, and should work well for moving air thru an aftercooler mounted in front of the pulley.
In looking at reviews of HF products that have pretty good overall ratings and a lot of reviews, I look at the bad reviews rather than the good ones to see if there's evidence of some recurring problem as opposed to evidence of inept or clueless users. On this pump, a significant number of bad reviews were for things like "the mounting holes didn't line up with my holes so I returned it" or "the connection says 1/2" pipe but it was bigger than 1/2" OD pipe so I had to spend $50 on fittings to hook it up". Honestly, if a person can't figure out that pipe isn't measured by OD, or is incapable of marking and drilling 4 holes, I have to wonder why they even need a compressor in the first place.
There were some mentions from a few years back of the aluminum pump pulley breaking after some period of use. This must have been a significant problem as the pump pulley is now cast iron. Should've been CI in the first place as the flywheel effect of a heavier pulley would make for smoother running regardless of whether an aluminum one would hold up or not.
I bought it to replace the pump on a Sears 3hp compressor I bought in 77 or 78, back before the lying about horsepower started, so the old compressor has an actual 16 amp 240V 3hp motor.
The pump has 20-30 hours of actual run time on it now. The compressor has a 20 gal tank, and the pump will refill from 95 to 125 psi consistently in 25 seconds when running at the recommended 1050 RPM. Doing the calculation for CFM shows that the pump is delivering 13 CFM which is well in excess of their stated 10 CFM @ 90 psi. The motor is pulling 14.4 amps at cutout pressure, so it's not overloaded.
The pump is significantly quieter than the original. Attributable to an actual air filter as opposed to the original which had a couple small pieces of foam over the intake ports. The intake is a pipe thread connection, so it would be simple to pipe it to a remote intake if further noise reduction is wanted.
A lot of the time so far has been spent running a palm type DA sander where the compressor runs continuously for 30 minutes or more. At that point, you don't want to lay your hand on the head, but the jugs are still cool enough to touch without getting burned. The fan section of the pump pulley moves at least twice as much air as the original (Devilbiss) pump, and should work well for moving air thru an aftercooler mounted in front of the pulley.
In looking at reviews of HF products that have pretty good overall ratings and a lot of reviews, I look at the bad reviews rather than the good ones to see if there's evidence of some recurring problem as opposed to evidence of inept or clueless users. On this pump, a significant number of bad reviews were for things like "the mounting holes didn't line up with my holes so I returned it" or "the connection says 1/2" pipe but it was bigger than 1/2" OD pipe so I had to spend $50 on fittings to hook it up". Honestly, if a person can't figure out that pipe isn't measured by OD, or is incapable of marking and drilling 4 holes, I have to wonder why they even need a compressor in the first place.
There were some mentions from a few years back of the aluminum pump pulley breaking after some period of use. This must have been a significant problem as the pump pulley is now cast iron. Should've been CI in the first place as the flywheel effect of a heavier pulley would make for smoother running regardless of whether an aluminum one would hold up or not.
619DioFan
Well-known member
48 inch goose neck wrecking bar - PASS
Only had this bar for 2 weeks. have yet to go full hulk on it so I will give it a pass for now. the heaviest item I have used it on in a prying fashion was around 300 lbs and it handled it no problem. the reviews are all good and with the lifetime warranty I feel it was worth the 25.00.
Only had this bar for 2 weeks. have yet to go full hulk on it so I will give it a pass for now. the heaviest item I have used it on in a prying fashion was around 300 lbs and it handled it no problem. the reviews are all good and with the lifetime warranty I feel it was worth the 25.00.
BassXB
Member
Bought their 1/2 inch earthquake electric impact in a pinch last week and have been pleasantly supprised. Pass for now well see about durability over time but plenty of torque.
Pry bars, 36 inch and 24 inch i believe, Fail used once on a medium strength job for a bar that big and now has a permanent bend to it.
Pry bars, 36 inch and 24 inch i believe, Fail used once on a medium strength job for a bar that big and now has a permanent bend to it.
spectrum1c
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2016
- Messages
- 26
Jacking up prices over the past few months seems to be the trend with hf recently. I used to be a big hf fan, but now it seems you can get name brand tools for the same price as their better rated tools, with much better warranty to boot along with piece of mind the tool is going to last.
It also makes their online reviews less reliable because someone giving 5 stars for a $20 palm nailer may be less forgiving of flaws and only give 3 stars at $35
JRC3
Well-known member
3-Ply Disposable Face Masks - 10 Pack, Blue 57593
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ply-disposable-face-masks-10-pack-blue-57593.html
IIRC when you buy 3 packs thaey are 3.99 each. These are a solid pass. They've lasted and the welds at the elastic straps are strong. The wire accross the nose forms well. I keep one folded in quarters in my side shorts pocket and have accidentally washed them with no ill affect. I've also unfolded the nose wire dozens of times and haven't broken one yet. Best of all, they are big, big enough to fit my big head and face. I've tried the packs of their Western Safety dust mask before and it's as if they were sized for a child.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ply-disposable-face-masks-10-pack-blue-57593.html
IIRC when you buy 3 packs thaey are 3.99 each. These are a solid pass. They've lasted and the welds at the elastic straps are strong. The wire accross the nose forms well. I keep one folded in quarters in my side shorts pocket and have accidentally washed them with no ill affect. I've also unfolded the nose wire dozens of times and haven't broken one yet. Best of all, they are big, big enough to fit my big head and face. I've tried the packs of their Western Safety dust mask before and it's as if they were sized for a child.
jinx18
Member
HAUL-MASTER 1000 Lbs. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart SKU 60438
PASS
I just purchased the HAUL-MASTER 1000 Lbs. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart and figured I would write a review here as some info is hard to come by:
If you are considering the 500lb version almost everyone agrees to pay the extra and get the 1000lb version. The reasons are that the platform is bigger which is very useful as many people even try to increase the size on the 1000lb version. Also it lifts higher. It is able to get to the height of a pickup truck tailgate (I do not have a pickup but many reviewers mention this as a plus). Lift height is 34.5" if you want to verify on your truck. The 1000lb has bigger casters and is overall just stronger.
The generic 20% off coupon does work for these items so make sure to use it. $279.99 with 20% off is $223.99 which is a nice savings. Not sure if they have ever done product specific coupons.
When you buy I also recommend buying the STA-LUBE 15 Oz Hydraulic And Jack Oil for $5.99. You can also use a 20% off coupon on this if you do 2 transactions. To fully maximize the performance you will need it. When I was buying mine a guy was returning his because he said it was sinking after a couple of hours. You need to bleed the hydraulic ram at a minimum and most likely will need to add some fluid due to shipping regulations not allowing them to fully fill. After I filled and bled mine I have now tested it overnight (about 14 hours) with 170 lbs of weight (I understand it is nowhere near max but should show any issues if there were any) and it didn't drop at all. His was probably fine if he just did some basic set up/bleeding.
The right way to bleed hydraulics is to have the piston vertical and compressed, fill up to the fill hole and cycle the ram. There is no way to get this ram vertical unless you remove it from the cart or tip the cart backwards until it is vertical but this is unnecessary and way to much work for this item. To bleed, lift table top all the way up by pumping the foot petal. Open the fill port and add oil. You don't have to fill to the top but it will make things simpler but messier. Once the oil is in, leave the plug out, slowly lower the table by pulling the lever on the handle. As the ram compresses any of the extra oil will overflow out of the hole. If nothing comes out you need to add more oil. Once it is all the way down, slowly pump the foot lever again to raise the table fully and put the plug back in. Now you bled the air and have the max fluid it can hold. The hydraulic ram should be completely full when the table is all the way down and this accomplishes that task as well as bleeding any air. It is a little messy because the table blocks filling the ram when compressed so you have to overfill, and lower the table. After I did this the hydraulics were much smoother. I used about 6 oz of oil and overflowed maybe 2 oz. So I added about 4 oz to the hydraulics which I think it pretty significant.
Once bled, I can go from fully lowered to full height in 27 complete pumps. If you are pumping fast and not coming all the way up or going all the way down it is more like 28-30 pumps. Some reviewers have mentioned it took them 40, 50 or one guy on YouTube said 90+ pumps. This is a sign there is air in the system.
So people swear by the functionality and use of this product. No more bending over and straining to lift things. People have lifted lawnmowers, generators, snow blowers, small engines, washer machines, dryers, dishwashers, etc. It is really nice to have things at a comfortable height. Also if you have ever made a big, heavy item purchase at Harbor Freight you will notice the employees use this to load items into peoples cars so that says something. So far I have used it for my generator to do an oil change, change the spark plug and replace the battery. All would have been doable but a huge hassle on the floor. Especially as I get older. Positioning things can be tricky due to table size and the item you are looking to put on top. I had the 9000W Predator generator with wheel kit on it. I could just barely fit it with the wheels on the table but it was barely on and risk of falling. If I rotated the generator I could lift it by the frame and it was much more secure. A slightly larger table would have been perfect to securely hold the entire generator up there by the wheels. I think for this generator use alone and yearly maintenance on it the table was worth it. I have also used it as a cart moving mulch and grass seed bags and unloading them from my car. Also as a general work table as well. I try to use it as much as I can as people swear by it and it seems useful to me. I am just a homeowner with a 1 car garage and not some massive shop but I still like it. I will make sure to remember I have it when lifting things comes up.
The Bad:
On some of the 500lb and 1000lb tables the casters are incorrectly labeled for when the wheels are locked or free if that bothers you. I have the 1000lb SKU 60438. The casters are labeled backwards. If I push the "ON" the casters are actually off and it can roll. If I push "OFF" they are actually locked. It does bother me a little and I emailed Harbor Freight on their website. I went to a couple of Harbor Freights near me to look at the display models. I noticed that all SKU 60438 in the store also had this issue. One store had SKU 69148 which had correct marking on the casters. My SKU 60438 has black locks on the caster and SKU 69148 has red locks just as an FYI of another difference which has no real effect other than looks.
Also the hydraulic ram on my SKU 60438 has a rubber plug. SKU 69148 has a screw for the hydraulic ram fill. People say the screw is "better" but I see no functional difference. The rubber plug is a bit of a pain to get back in since it is tapered and you need to use a pick or slotted screwdriver to get it back in. Some people have removed the rubber plug, tapped the hole and use a screw. I am not considering this since there is a risk of metal shavings falling into the fill hole and possibly damaging seals.
The rubber mat that comes with it is not glued down. Any time you put something on top it slides all around. This can be a little dangerous because as it slides you lose track of where the end of the table is and you can have something slide off and fall. All people I see using it just don't use the mat at all. I am debating gluing it down because it would be nice to minimize scratching on items but then again I don't want to make a huge mess if it doesn't work.
Moving the cart is VERY NOISY with nothing on it. It is a little quieter with something to stop the table top from bouncing around.
The foot pump was a little squeaky when pumping it up. I hit it with some spray lube and now it is quiet.
The cart is heavy. It weighs 161 lbs so not really something you are going to bring down stairs, into the house or into the car. It is more for a garage or shop area.
Even though the cart is awesome you still need to get the items on it. Minimum height is 11" so you will be lifting whatever you have at least that high. You can probably rig up some ramps though if you need.
A lot of people complain when new the table either wont raise or wont lower. The product is very simple. You pump a hydraulic ram to raise the table and pull a lever to lower the table. The hand lever connects to the ram with a cable. If the cable is too tight the table wont raise as the pressure is being bled off. If the cable is too loose the table wont lower because you are not pulling the lever on the ram far enough to bleed off the pressure. It is a simple cable adjustment if you need to do it. I didn't have to. Some people also make adjustments to get the table to lower faster or slower which is fine just make sure it is fully releasing so the table holds strong and doesn't sink down.
SKU 60438 - Casters labeled backwards. I have seen some models that have no labeling at all on the casters too. Maybe they are older. Caster lock is black. Ram has a rubber plug. Rollers are metal. The mat on top is a rubber with evenly spaces lines. The foot pump has a nice thick rubber.
SKU 69148 - Casters labeled correct. Caster lock is red. Ram has a screw. Rollers are metal but I have seen tables with plastic rollers in reviews too. The mat on top is rubber with the lines in an alternating design every inch or so. The foot pump has a slightly smaller diameter rubber.
The warning stickers are slightly different.
There is a third SKU 93116 but I have not seen it anywhere.
As for which SKU is better, at first I was thinking that maybe SKU 69148 is slightly better due to correctly labeled casters and a screw on the ram. The thing is I have seen some SKU 69148 with plastic rollers which I think is a downside as that's not as strong as the metal rollers. I have also seen some with labeled casters and some that are just blank for both SKUs. In all honesty the way Harbor Freight makes products even in the same SKU there can be small variations like these. I have gone through trying to track down specific SKUs at Harbor Freight and it is a nightmare. You may not see other SKUs for awhile or ever at your store. The different SKUs is my biggest gripe with Harbor Freight and I wish they had one factory making their products.
For this item I would say either SKU is fine. One may have one thing better but another thing not as good. I would say they are equal. None of the changes are big enough to cause any performance difference although the plastic roller may wear out faster?
I think I covered most everything. If you have any questions let me know.
Update:
I contacted Harbor Freight about the casters. I got a response of they can order replacements that would take 12 weeks to arrive and they can't guarantee what they would be labeled. They also said that essentially there is no correct labeling because it's your interpretation of if the wheel is on or the lock is on. That is BS because the label is for if the wheel is locked. I ended up taking the lever off, filing the labels off and re-stamping the words ON and OFF in the correct location. It's not a super clean job but it works.
PASS
I just purchased the HAUL-MASTER 1000 Lbs. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart and figured I would write a review here as some info is hard to come by:
If you are considering the 500lb version almost everyone agrees to pay the extra and get the 1000lb version. The reasons are that the platform is bigger which is very useful as many people even try to increase the size on the 1000lb version. Also it lifts higher. It is able to get to the height of a pickup truck tailgate (I do not have a pickup but many reviewers mention this as a plus). Lift height is 34.5" if you want to verify on your truck. The 1000lb has bigger casters and is overall just stronger.
The generic 20% off coupon does work for these items so make sure to use it. $279.99 with 20% off is $223.99 which is a nice savings. Not sure if they have ever done product specific coupons.
When you buy I also recommend buying the STA-LUBE 15 Oz Hydraulic And Jack Oil for $5.99. You can also use a 20% off coupon on this if you do 2 transactions. To fully maximize the performance you will need it. When I was buying mine a guy was returning his because he said it was sinking after a couple of hours. You need to bleed the hydraulic ram at a minimum and most likely will need to add some fluid due to shipping regulations not allowing them to fully fill. After I filled and bled mine I have now tested it overnight (about 14 hours) with 170 lbs of weight (I understand it is nowhere near max but should show any issues if there were any) and it didn't drop at all. His was probably fine if he just did some basic set up/bleeding.
The right way to bleed hydraulics is to have the piston vertical and compressed, fill up to the fill hole and cycle the ram. There is no way to get this ram vertical unless you remove it from the cart or tip the cart backwards until it is vertical but this is unnecessary and way to much work for this item. To bleed, lift table top all the way up by pumping the foot petal. Open the fill port and add oil. You don't have to fill to the top but it will make things simpler but messier. Once the oil is in, leave the plug out, slowly lower the table by pulling the lever on the handle. As the ram compresses any of the extra oil will overflow out of the hole. If nothing comes out you need to add more oil. Once it is all the way down, slowly pump the foot lever again to raise the table fully and put the plug back in. Now you bled the air and have the max fluid it can hold. The hydraulic ram should be completely full when the table is all the way down and this accomplishes that task as well as bleeding any air. It is a little messy because the table blocks filling the ram when compressed so you have to overfill, and lower the table. After I did this the hydraulics were much smoother. I used about 6 oz of oil and overflowed maybe 2 oz. So I added about 4 oz to the hydraulics which I think it pretty significant.
Once bled, I can go from fully lowered to full height in 27 complete pumps. If you are pumping fast and not coming all the way up or going all the way down it is more like 28-30 pumps. Some reviewers have mentioned it took them 40, 50 or one guy on YouTube said 90+ pumps. This is a sign there is air in the system.
So people swear by the functionality and use of this product. No more bending over and straining to lift things. People have lifted lawnmowers, generators, snow blowers, small engines, washer machines, dryers, dishwashers, etc. It is really nice to have things at a comfortable height. Also if you have ever made a big, heavy item purchase at Harbor Freight you will notice the employees use this to load items into peoples cars so that says something. So far I have used it for my generator to do an oil change, change the spark plug and replace the battery. All would have been doable but a huge hassle on the floor. Especially as I get older. Positioning things can be tricky due to table size and the item you are looking to put on top. I had the 9000W Predator generator with wheel kit on it. I could just barely fit it with the wheels on the table but it was barely on and risk of falling. If I rotated the generator I could lift it by the frame and it was much more secure. A slightly larger table would have been perfect to securely hold the entire generator up there by the wheels. I think for this generator use alone and yearly maintenance on it the table was worth it. I have also used it as a cart moving mulch and grass seed bags and unloading them from my car. Also as a general work table as well. I try to use it as much as I can as people swear by it and it seems useful to me. I am just a homeowner with a 1 car garage and not some massive shop but I still like it. I will make sure to remember I have it when lifting things comes up.
The Bad:
On some of the 500lb and 1000lb tables the casters are incorrectly labeled for when the wheels are locked or free if that bothers you. I have the 1000lb SKU 60438. The casters are labeled backwards. If I push the "ON" the casters are actually off and it can roll. If I push "OFF" they are actually locked. It does bother me a little and I emailed Harbor Freight on their website. I went to a couple of Harbor Freights near me to look at the display models. I noticed that all SKU 60438 in the store also had this issue. One store had SKU 69148 which had correct marking on the casters. My SKU 60438 has black locks on the caster and SKU 69148 has red locks just as an FYI of another difference which has no real effect other than looks.
Also the hydraulic ram on my SKU 60438 has a rubber plug. SKU 69148 has a screw for the hydraulic ram fill. People say the screw is "better" but I see no functional difference. The rubber plug is a bit of a pain to get back in since it is tapered and you need to use a pick or slotted screwdriver to get it back in. Some people have removed the rubber plug, tapped the hole and use a screw. I am not considering this since there is a risk of metal shavings falling into the fill hole and possibly damaging seals.
The rubber mat that comes with it is not glued down. Any time you put something on top it slides all around. This can be a little dangerous because as it slides you lose track of where the end of the table is and you can have something slide off and fall. All people I see using it just don't use the mat at all. I am debating gluing it down because it would be nice to minimize scratching on items but then again I don't want to make a huge mess if it doesn't work.
Moving the cart is VERY NOISY with nothing on it. It is a little quieter with something to stop the table top from bouncing around.
The foot pump was a little squeaky when pumping it up. I hit it with some spray lube and now it is quiet.
The cart is heavy. It weighs 161 lbs so not really something you are going to bring down stairs, into the house or into the car. It is more for a garage or shop area.
Even though the cart is awesome you still need to get the items on it. Minimum height is 11" so you will be lifting whatever you have at least that high. You can probably rig up some ramps though if you need.
A lot of people complain when new the table either wont raise or wont lower. The product is very simple. You pump a hydraulic ram to raise the table and pull a lever to lower the table. The hand lever connects to the ram with a cable. If the cable is too tight the table wont raise as the pressure is being bled off. If the cable is too loose the table wont lower because you are not pulling the lever on the ram far enough to bleed off the pressure. It is a simple cable adjustment if you need to do it. I didn't have to. Some people also make adjustments to get the table to lower faster or slower which is fine just make sure it is fully releasing so the table holds strong and doesn't sink down.
SKU 60438 - Casters labeled backwards. I have seen some models that have no labeling at all on the casters too. Maybe they are older. Caster lock is black. Ram has a rubber plug. Rollers are metal. The mat on top is a rubber with evenly spaces lines. The foot pump has a nice thick rubber.
SKU 69148 - Casters labeled correct. Caster lock is red. Ram has a screw. Rollers are metal but I have seen tables with plastic rollers in reviews too. The mat on top is rubber with the lines in an alternating design every inch or so. The foot pump has a slightly smaller diameter rubber.
The warning stickers are slightly different.
There is a third SKU 93116 but I have not seen it anywhere.
As for which SKU is better, at first I was thinking that maybe SKU 69148 is slightly better due to correctly labeled casters and a screw on the ram. The thing is I have seen some SKU 69148 with plastic rollers which I think is a downside as that's not as strong as the metal rollers. I have also seen some with labeled casters and some that are just blank for both SKUs. In all honesty the way Harbor Freight makes products even in the same SKU there can be small variations like these. I have gone through trying to track down specific SKUs at Harbor Freight and it is a nightmare. You may not see other SKUs for awhile or ever at your store. The different SKUs is my biggest gripe with Harbor Freight and I wish they had one factory making their products.
For this item I would say either SKU is fine. One may have one thing better but another thing not as good. I would say they are equal. None of the changes are big enough to cause any performance difference although the plastic roller may wear out faster?
I think I covered most everything. If you have any questions let me know.
Update:
I contacted Harbor Freight about the casters. I got a response of they can order replacements that would take 12 weeks to arrive and they can't guarantee what they would be labeled. They also said that essentially there is no correct labeling because it's your interpretation of if the wheel is on or the lock is on. That is BS because the label is for if the wheel is locked. I ended up taking the lever off, filing the labels off and re-stamping the words ON and OFF in the correct location. It's not a super clean job but it works.
Attachments
javyLSU
Well-known member
Jinx18 that was the greatest product review for anything I’ve ever seen anywhere. Hats off to you!
jinx18
Member
Thanks guys. I plan to write some more reviews.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app
velocipede
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Jinx18..Thank you for the info on how to bleed hydraulics. I had that issue with my table when I first got it and it still won't hold a load. Now I know what to do.
jinx18
Member
PREDATOR 9000 Watt Max Starting Extra Long Life Gas Powered Generator - EPA III SKU 63971
PASS
PREDATOR 10 In. Heavy Duty Generator Wheel Kit SKU 64788
PASS
THUNDERBOLT 12v 10 Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery SKU 62586
PASS
This is going to be a review of the generator and accessories but I will include some basic general knowledge as well.
Please use safe practices when using a generator on your house. Don't back feed the power grid or make homemade suicide cords. Last year in my house I had an electrician professionally install a generator inlet kit and interlock kit for my whole house panel. I have a 200amp panel but my house is small. Single level ranch, 3 bed, 1 bath. All LED fixtures but I do have central AC and electric stove and oven. This way I can power my house in the event of a power outage. It is nice to have it all set up correctly and safely. A couple of months ago in the northeast we had a power outage. I was without power for 3 days, many people up to 5 days. I am a first time home owner and still trying to get everything set up so at this point I didn't own a generator yet so my awesome whole house hookup was useless. Once generators came back in stock I decided I needed one for emergency uses.
Type of generator:
Inverter vs regular generators.
Inverter Pros: Much quieter and can usually vary RPM based on load, put out cleaner electrical power, better on gas.
Inverter Cons: Much more expensive. Generally not available in large outputs like for a whole house
Regular Pros: Cheaper, much higher outputs
Regular Cons: Louder, shouldn't run sensitive electronics like a computer, use more gas
For my house a regular generator was a no brainer.
Deciding on size:
I wanted to power my whole house which may be a different case than what you want. For generator inlet boxes there are generally 3 inlet types. 20A, 30A and 50A. 20A is for RVs and small house hookups. If you want to find maximum wattage you just multiply Amps x Volts for Power. In a house panel you probably are using 240/250V circuits as well which is 4 prongs. 120V is 3 prongs. A 20A inlet box is good for (20A)x(250V)= 5000 watts. That means if you have a larger generator than 5000W with a 20A inlet it is overkill as the receptacles couldn't handle that power anyway. I think 5000W was a little low for a whole house. Also not many generators have 20A outlets.
The next size up is 30A. (30A)x(250V) = 7500 watts. 30A seems to be the most widely popular. Almost all generators have 30A outputs even in smaller sizes.
The next size up is 50A. (50A)x(250V) = 12500 watts. Seems like 50A should be the way to go so you have some overhead for a whole house. Unless you are getting a very large generator they usually do not have 50A outputs.
So in the end 30A will run my house (at least all the main things needed but pretty close to everything), and is by far the most common so that's what I got. The 9000 watt starting, 7250 running watts. I could also run my house off of any of the smaller generators as they all have 30A outputs I just couldn't run as many items.
So like most things Harbor Freight you always need some extras. Here is everything I bought for a really nice complete set up.
From Harbor Freight:
Generator: Obviously. I had a coupon for $599.
Generator Extended Service Plan from Harbor Freight: This is a $129 add on for 2 years. From what I have heard Harbor Freight does not have a repair center. If it breaks they just give you a brand new one. I did it for peace of mind since it was a decent investment but not necessary.
PREDATOR 10 In. Heavy Duty Generator Wheel Kit: A wheel kit is necessary. This thing is HEAVY. They make an 8" and 10" wheel kit. I just got the 10" since the generator is so big. It is $49.99.
THUNDERBOLT 12v 10 Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery: For the electric start. $39 from Harbor Freight and I used a 20% off coupon. Not necessary unless you want electric start. Engine has a pull cord. I got it incase my wife needs to start the generator.
From Misc. Vendors:
Generator cord: This is one area I didn't feel comfortable using the Harbor Freight item. This cord needs to carry a lot of power, for a long time and in my case a pretty decent distance. The Harbor Freight Cord is 25ft. I needed about 40 feet from my hookup to a safe distance in my backyard. Connecting 2 25ft cords is possible but is not ideal. The longer the cord the more resistance and usually has a downgraded rating. I don't think 2 Harbor Freight cords could handle full power. Due to the distance and power required I got a 50ft cord from Generac rated for full capacity (7500W) at that length. I felt more comfortable from a Generator company and the cord seems very high quality and got great reviews.
Battery Tender: I bought a cheap $25 batter tender junior battery tender and maintainer 750mA. This way I don't have to worry about the battery being dead when I need it.
10W30 oil: This is the specified oil. Run whatever brand you like. I bought Mobil 1 synthetic. You need just over 1 qt.
Long funnel: Oil fill is kind of under some stuff so you need a long funnel to pour.
NGK BP7ES Spark plug: The engines come with a Torch Chinese spark plug which people say is pretty crappy. I bought a replacement from Advanced Auto for under $3. The manual says a Torch F6TC which is equivalent to a NGK BP6ES. My engine actually had a Torch F7TC in it so I bought a NGK BP7ES. If you buy a generator I would just replace what is in the engine with the NGK equivalent. I checked a bunch of engines at the stores (generators, power washers, plain engines) and they seemed to vary from both 6 and 7 heat range plugs. I couldn't figure out if the variation was from age (older items had a 6, newer a 7) or if it was based on item like generators and power washers had a 7 and plain engines sold had a 6. Either way I don't think it is a huge deal.
Dielectric grease: To put on the spark plug boot as just general maintenance
Fuel Stabilizer: I use Sta-bil Storage for the generator since it will sit more than most items. They actually sell it at Harbor Freight but you can get from any autoparts store. Although Harbor Freight does do $2 off instantly if you buy a generator and Sta-bil product at the same time.
Hour Meter: I bought a cheap inductive hour meter off Amazon to track hours for maintenance since it does not come with one.
Set up:
The generator comes with the battery mounting bracket and hooks. I mounted the battery in and put the battery tender permanent hookups so when I need to charge I just plug in a quick connector.
It also comes with a spark plug wrench. I removed the stock plug and replaced it with the NGK. Put a little dielectric grease in the spark plug boot too.
Mounted the wheel kit. The tires do not have air but they are not solid rubber either. They seem to be filled with a solid type of foam. The first kit I bought the tires had some huge dents in them like something was sitting on top of them. I wasn't sure if over time they would un-dent and go back to normal so I just returned it for a new one. Next one was good. One wheel sits at a slight cant but this is not due to the wheel kit. The one bracket on the generator frame looks like it was welded at a slight angle so the wheel sits at a slight angle. It doesn't rub anything and works fine but a minor annoyance.
Filled the engine with oil. These engines essentially get filled right up to the threads of the dipstick so super easy to fill.
Installed the hour meter. Just wrap the wire around the spark plug wire 5 times and zip tie it. I double stuck the meter on top of the gas tank.
Filled the gas tank with fresh gas with Sta-bil storage fuel stabilizer. Gas tank is claimed 8 gallons. At 5 gallons it looked pretty full. You could see the gas all the way up to the screen in the fill. I kept going. I stopped at 7 gallons because the fuel level looks high but the gas gauge shows about 7/8 so I would say it can hold the full 8 gallons.
I also opened the airbox to just check the filter was ok. The foam was put in a little crooked so I just straightened it out.
Starting and Running items:
I charged the battery with the battery tender until it was full. It probably came with 2/3 or more charge straight from the store based on charge time which is better than I thought. For the first start I wanted to use the pull cord. I turned the fuel petcock on, put on the choke and it started right up first pull. Immediately was able to turn the choke off and it ran great. I thought it may take a couple of pulls since it was the first time I put fuel in. I let it warm up a minute or 2 and then plugged in a portable space heater which is like 1500 watts. I have heard it is not great to run a generator without some load on it. I checked all of the regular 120V outlets and they all were good. I also tried running my big shop vac and that was no issues either. I shut it off and tried starting again. No issues, first pull. I then tried the electric start. The electric start is definitely less powerful than me pulling the cord. For the electric start it always works flawlessly and started right up but it does require the choke. I found hot or cold the electric start needed the choke to start right up otherwise it just cranks. With the pull cord you don't really need the choke as much and it starts up easier.
As of now I have a couple of hours on it running misc. things. I have not had a chance to test the actual voltage outputs yet but that is something I want to check. We have not had another power outage so I don't have a multi day test yet but I will update if that happens. Since I now have everything I am sure I will never lose power again.
I do feel confident in this generator. I have come to find out the 212cc predator engine and 420cc predator engine (which is what is in this generator) have MASSIVE aftermarket support. Companies make pistons, rods, cams, valve springs, heads, superchargers, carbs, and more. Many people use these engines in go karts, mini bikes, and whatever they can cram them into. They run them on gas, propane, natural gas, alcohol and I'm sure other things. I am not worried about keeping the engine going. On the other hand I am not as sure about the electrical generator portion. I am pretty sure Harbor Freight has sold thousands and thousands of these with pretty overwhelmingly good reviews so I do not see any issues coming up but just to be safe that is why I bought the warranty.
Overall for the features, quality, price and reviews I really think it is a great buy.
PASS
PREDATOR 10 In. Heavy Duty Generator Wheel Kit SKU 64788
PASS
THUNDERBOLT 12v 10 Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery SKU 62586
PASS
This is going to be a review of the generator and accessories but I will include some basic general knowledge as well.
Please use safe practices when using a generator on your house. Don't back feed the power grid or make homemade suicide cords. Last year in my house I had an electrician professionally install a generator inlet kit and interlock kit for my whole house panel. I have a 200amp panel but my house is small. Single level ranch, 3 bed, 1 bath. All LED fixtures but I do have central AC and electric stove and oven. This way I can power my house in the event of a power outage. It is nice to have it all set up correctly and safely. A couple of months ago in the northeast we had a power outage. I was without power for 3 days, many people up to 5 days. I am a first time home owner and still trying to get everything set up so at this point I didn't own a generator yet so my awesome whole house hookup was useless. Once generators came back in stock I decided I needed one for emergency uses.
Type of generator:
Inverter vs regular generators.
Inverter Pros: Much quieter and can usually vary RPM based on load, put out cleaner electrical power, better on gas.
Inverter Cons: Much more expensive. Generally not available in large outputs like for a whole house
Regular Pros: Cheaper, much higher outputs
Regular Cons: Louder, shouldn't run sensitive electronics like a computer, use more gas
For my house a regular generator was a no brainer.
Deciding on size:
I wanted to power my whole house which may be a different case than what you want. For generator inlet boxes there are generally 3 inlet types. 20A, 30A and 50A. 20A is for RVs and small house hookups. If you want to find maximum wattage you just multiply Amps x Volts for Power. In a house panel you probably are using 240/250V circuits as well which is 4 prongs. 120V is 3 prongs. A 20A inlet box is good for (20A)x(250V)= 5000 watts. That means if you have a larger generator than 5000W with a 20A inlet it is overkill as the receptacles couldn't handle that power anyway. I think 5000W was a little low for a whole house. Also not many generators have 20A outlets.
The next size up is 30A. (30A)x(250V) = 7500 watts. 30A seems to be the most widely popular. Almost all generators have 30A outputs even in smaller sizes.
The next size up is 50A. (50A)x(250V) = 12500 watts. Seems like 50A should be the way to go so you have some overhead for a whole house. Unless you are getting a very large generator they usually do not have 50A outputs.
So in the end 30A will run my house (at least all the main things needed but pretty close to everything), and is by far the most common so that's what I got. The 9000 watt starting, 7250 running watts. I could also run my house off of any of the smaller generators as they all have 30A outputs I just couldn't run as many items.
So like most things Harbor Freight you always need some extras. Here is everything I bought for a really nice complete set up.
From Harbor Freight:
Generator: Obviously. I had a coupon for $599.
Generator Extended Service Plan from Harbor Freight: This is a $129 add on for 2 years. From what I have heard Harbor Freight does not have a repair center. If it breaks they just give you a brand new one. I did it for peace of mind since it was a decent investment but not necessary.
PREDATOR 10 In. Heavy Duty Generator Wheel Kit: A wheel kit is necessary. This thing is HEAVY. They make an 8" and 10" wheel kit. I just got the 10" since the generator is so big. It is $49.99.
THUNDERBOLT 12v 10 Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery: For the electric start. $39 from Harbor Freight and I used a 20% off coupon. Not necessary unless you want electric start. Engine has a pull cord. I got it incase my wife needs to start the generator.
From Misc. Vendors:
Generator cord: This is one area I didn't feel comfortable using the Harbor Freight item. This cord needs to carry a lot of power, for a long time and in my case a pretty decent distance. The Harbor Freight Cord is 25ft. I needed about 40 feet from my hookup to a safe distance in my backyard. Connecting 2 25ft cords is possible but is not ideal. The longer the cord the more resistance and usually has a downgraded rating. I don't think 2 Harbor Freight cords could handle full power. Due to the distance and power required I got a 50ft cord from Generac rated for full capacity (7500W) at that length. I felt more comfortable from a Generator company and the cord seems very high quality and got great reviews.
Battery Tender: I bought a cheap $25 batter tender junior battery tender and maintainer 750mA. This way I don't have to worry about the battery being dead when I need it.
10W30 oil: This is the specified oil. Run whatever brand you like. I bought Mobil 1 synthetic. You need just over 1 qt.
Long funnel: Oil fill is kind of under some stuff so you need a long funnel to pour.
NGK BP7ES Spark plug: The engines come with a Torch Chinese spark plug which people say is pretty crappy. I bought a replacement from Advanced Auto for under $3. The manual says a Torch F6TC which is equivalent to a NGK BP6ES. My engine actually had a Torch F7TC in it so I bought a NGK BP7ES. If you buy a generator I would just replace what is in the engine with the NGK equivalent. I checked a bunch of engines at the stores (generators, power washers, plain engines) and they seemed to vary from both 6 and 7 heat range plugs. I couldn't figure out if the variation was from age (older items had a 6, newer a 7) or if it was based on item like generators and power washers had a 7 and plain engines sold had a 6. Either way I don't think it is a huge deal.
Dielectric grease: To put on the spark plug boot as just general maintenance
Fuel Stabilizer: I use Sta-bil Storage for the generator since it will sit more than most items. They actually sell it at Harbor Freight but you can get from any autoparts store. Although Harbor Freight does do $2 off instantly if you buy a generator and Sta-bil product at the same time.
Hour Meter: I bought a cheap inductive hour meter off Amazon to track hours for maintenance since it does not come with one.
Set up:
The generator comes with the battery mounting bracket and hooks. I mounted the battery in and put the battery tender permanent hookups so when I need to charge I just plug in a quick connector.
It also comes with a spark plug wrench. I removed the stock plug and replaced it with the NGK. Put a little dielectric grease in the spark plug boot too.
Mounted the wheel kit. The tires do not have air but they are not solid rubber either. They seem to be filled with a solid type of foam. The first kit I bought the tires had some huge dents in them like something was sitting on top of them. I wasn't sure if over time they would un-dent and go back to normal so I just returned it for a new one. Next one was good. One wheel sits at a slight cant but this is not due to the wheel kit. The one bracket on the generator frame looks like it was welded at a slight angle so the wheel sits at a slight angle. It doesn't rub anything and works fine but a minor annoyance.
Filled the engine with oil. These engines essentially get filled right up to the threads of the dipstick so super easy to fill.
Installed the hour meter. Just wrap the wire around the spark plug wire 5 times and zip tie it. I double stuck the meter on top of the gas tank.
Filled the gas tank with fresh gas with Sta-bil storage fuel stabilizer. Gas tank is claimed 8 gallons. At 5 gallons it looked pretty full. You could see the gas all the way up to the screen in the fill. I kept going. I stopped at 7 gallons because the fuel level looks high but the gas gauge shows about 7/8 so I would say it can hold the full 8 gallons.
I also opened the airbox to just check the filter was ok. The foam was put in a little crooked so I just straightened it out.
Starting and Running items:
I charged the battery with the battery tender until it was full. It probably came with 2/3 or more charge straight from the store based on charge time which is better than I thought. For the first start I wanted to use the pull cord. I turned the fuel petcock on, put on the choke and it started right up first pull. Immediately was able to turn the choke off and it ran great. I thought it may take a couple of pulls since it was the first time I put fuel in. I let it warm up a minute or 2 and then plugged in a portable space heater which is like 1500 watts. I have heard it is not great to run a generator without some load on it. I checked all of the regular 120V outlets and they all were good. I also tried running my big shop vac and that was no issues either. I shut it off and tried starting again. No issues, first pull. I then tried the electric start. The electric start is definitely less powerful than me pulling the cord. For the electric start it always works flawlessly and started right up but it does require the choke. I found hot or cold the electric start needed the choke to start right up otherwise it just cranks. With the pull cord you don't really need the choke as much and it starts up easier.
As of now I have a couple of hours on it running misc. things. I have not had a chance to test the actual voltage outputs yet but that is something I want to check. We have not had another power outage so I don't have a multi day test yet but I will update if that happens. Since I now have everything I am sure I will never lose power again.
I do feel confident in this generator. I have come to find out the 212cc predator engine and 420cc predator engine (which is what is in this generator) have MASSIVE aftermarket support. Companies make pistons, rods, cams, valve springs, heads, superchargers, carbs, and more. Many people use these engines in go karts, mini bikes, and whatever they can cram them into. They run them on gas, propane, natural gas, alcohol and I'm sure other things. I am not worried about keeping the engine going. On the other hand I am not as sure about the electrical generator portion. I am pretty sure Harbor Freight has sold thousands and thousands of these with pretty overwhelmingly good reviews so I do not see any issues coming up but just to be safe that is why I bought the warranty.
Overall for the features, quality, price and reviews I really think it is a great buy.
Attachments
Last edited:
Ton ton
Well-known member
I didn't know you needed to use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots.
raskal
Well-known member
you're not supposed to. Where did you read that?
JRC3
Well-known member
I always do. Keeps the boot from sticking to the porcelain.
jinx18
Member
It doesn't conduct electricity so you shouldn't get it on the metal terminals. It is only for the rubber boot and ceramic of the spark plug and not for the metal connectors. It will help the spark from arcing to ground through the boot and makes removal of the boot easier later on.
Here is a good video
It is literally all over the packaging as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Yep!
raskal
Well-known member
yeah, I 100% misunderstood what they were suggesting, I made the rash assumption that they were putting it on the metal parts.
I go drink more coffee now
jinx18
Member
The strange thing is dielectric grease is sold as grease for bulbs, battery terminals, spark plugs and many other electrical connections. Even though it is non-conductive I think the consensus is when assembled the grease would be pushed off by the metal to metal contact and still be ok. There are many instances of people slopping it on connections and then connecting the plugs with no issues. Even this little packet for spark plugs shows it going on the metal terminal.
https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...c-spark-plug-boot-protector-0-14oz/196157_0_0
There are tests showing it makes no real difference in resistance even if you literally goop it on a metal to metal contact point. If dielectric grease insulated as well as people claim, there would be a hell of a lot more misfiring vehicles out there. I know I've worked on some that had the boots cram-packed full and they ran just fine. Some brands of wires come with large globs of dielectric grease pre-applied(AC Delco is one example).
edit: Besides that AGS packet above, there are GM tech articles that show applying a light coat of dielectric grease all the way from the end of the terminal to the end of the boot.
hallboyone
Well-known member
Admiral 12 in. Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw (SKU64686) - FAIL
When I unboxed the saw, the casting around the pin that holds the blade down was broken, the threaded rod that locks the horizontal pivot was bent and could not be tightened (straightening it made it start to crack), and the slide bearings already felt loose. Overall, it was a low quality saw (I guess you get what you pay for) that I wouldn't trust to make precise cuts. It appears that a lot of other people have had good experience with the saw so maybe mine was a lemon. Either way, I returned it and bought a refurbished non-sliding 12in Dewalt from Amazon for $50 more.
When I unboxed the saw, the casting around the pin that holds the blade down was broken, the threaded rod that locks the horizontal pivot was bent and could not be tightened (straightening it made it start to crack), and the slide bearings already felt loose. Overall, it was a low quality saw (I guess you get what you pay for) that I wouldn't trust to make precise cuts. It appears that a lot of other people have had good experience with the saw so maybe mine was a lemon. Either way, I returned it and bought a refurbished non-sliding 12in Dewalt from Amazon for $50 more.
willy3486
Well-known member
I second this. I had a 40 gallon CH air compressor that the tank was good but the pump was aluminum and a sub par piston. I replaced the piston twice over a few years. I saw the compressor last year and made a new base that mounted on my original CH. I mounted the pump and a motor I had on it. I have been using it a year with no problems. Its a lot quieter over the CH pump as well. Well worth the investment as I had a good tank. My pump pulley is cast iron as well.
JRC3
Well-known member
^^
Sounds like that saw got dropped or knocked around or something that caused those problems. Though I'm not defending the quality of the saw itself. The seller can defend the quality by giving a warranty they feel represents it.
Sounds like that saw got dropped or knocked around or something that caused those problems. Though I'm not defending the quality of the saw itself. The seller can defend the quality by giving a warranty they feel represents it.
Robbie B
Well-known member
Hercules 12” sliding compound miter saw is a Pass so far. I’ve had it coming up on two years and it’s done great.
Capsaicin
New member
67994 1/4 In, 3/8 In. Drive Long Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet PASS.
Bought after reading it had one of the thinnest heads available on any ratchet, with or without flex. The mechanism is smooth, the flex joints are tight (I cheated a bit by trying every one in stock and picking the best one), and the long handle gives a lot of extra leverage. Really handy when there isn't enough clearance for a normal ratchet, some extra torque is needed, and room to swing a breaker bar into alignment is limited (example: 24mm belt tensioner bolt on a mid-engined Porsche 986 or 987).
Bought after reading it had one of the thinnest heads available on any ratchet, with or without flex. The mechanism is smooth, the flex joints are tight (I cheated a bit by trying every one in stock and picking the best one), and the long handle gives a lot of extra leverage. Really handy when there isn't enough clearance for a normal ratchet, some extra torque is needed, and room to swing a breaker bar into alignment is limited (example: 24mm belt tensioner bolt on a mid-engined Porsche 986 or 987).
dreamingmuscle
Well-known member
These little lanterns. For $4.99 A+ pass
https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-...-lighting/250-lumen-pop-up-lantern-64110.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-...-lighting/250-lumen-pop-up-lantern-64110.html
Last edited:
thool
Well-known member
Wow, this is an awesome review! I love the level of detail and thought you put into your purchase.
I have a slightly smaller generator with many of the same features, and have put off an important task: a laminated pictorial guide for use. Anyone in my household should be able to follow the sequence from wheeling it out, connecting it, handling the transfer switches, running, and tear-down.
What are you doing as far as fueling? I kept mine fully fueled for years, with stabilizer, and a couple runs a year to make sure it ran ok. A few years back, I drained everything and fogged it, so it will need fuel as part of the startup procedure.
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bought the Bauer Corded 4-1/2 In. 8 Amp Heavy Duty Trigger Grip Angle Grinder With Tool-Free Guard a while back to use for some grinding and cleaning that I was trying to do with a cordless drill. I keep seeing on GJ how much better an angle grinder is than a regular drill. I didn't want to spend a lot on an angle grinder since I had no experience using one. Read up on the Bauer line and saw a couple of reviews of this one on Youtube. Decided I would try this model and since it was at a reduced price felt like it was a good choice for a moderately priced power tool. I found it easy to use. I don't have large hands and found it fit me comfortably. It has the trigger grip vs. a paddle switch and found that it was not too hard to keep pressed continously without any fatigue. Handle can be mounted on either side, so if you are a southpaw, this would work for you too. Definitely a much better way to grind/clean than a regular drill. Glad I bought one and I rate this Bauer angle grinder as a definite PASS.
Slinger646
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2017
- Messages
- 213
Pittsburgh Panel Clip Pliers - PASS
These are on ITC special so why not. Now, here's where I get extra: Obvious rough casting/stamping. It was raining one day so I filed the edges smooth and took some steel wool to the rough parkerized finish. about 20m of work and now they look almost as good as they work
These are on ITC special so why not. Now, here's where I get extra: Obvious rough casting/stamping. It was raining one day so I filed the edges smooth and took some steel wool to the rough parkerized finish. about 20m of work and now they look almost as good as they work
Slinger646
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2017
- Messages
- 213
Pittsburgh 3pc hose grip pliers - Pass
These work for my use, small engines and such. You can tell that these are just regular needle nose pliers that have been formed around a mandrel. There's some slag here and there on the teeth that comes off easily with a wire wheel. My only concern is if they are weaker over time due to the forming process.
These work for my use, small engines and such. You can tell that these are just regular needle nose pliers that have been formed around a mandrel. There's some slag here and there on the teeth that comes off easily with a wire wheel. My only concern is if they are weaker over time due to the forming process.
Last edited: