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The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

Indy_500

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Anybody had an experience with their radiator pressure tester kit?
I had a chance to take a real close look at it in the store. The case feels solid, adapters are good and clean in terms of finish, the pump felt solid. Quick-disconnects felt good. Only thing felt really flimsy was the hose, although it has strain reliefs on both ends, the hose itself was real thin and lightweight.
I don't know if the hose can be replaced, I didn't have a chance to look at how it's attached. But since adapters use quick-disconnects, i believe the strain on the hose would be much less during regular use.

i'm goingn out on a limb but i'm pretty sure mechanicnamedjohn has one.
 
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MechanicNamedJohn

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i'm goingn out on a limb but i'm pretty sure mechanicnamedjohn has one.

LOL. Yeah I have it. Works well, very well actually. Major down side; it's missing the most commonly used adapter, you can use the universals though. I need to get one of the Stant ones, but I keep using the universal, and always forget to order it.
 

Bull

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I have a question too. Isn't this the HF pass/fail thread?

Shall we return back to the topic?

Yes my friend, it is. I will clean it up in the morning. It's past 3am now, and I must be getting to bed.
 

IONH

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Has anyone tried the Automatic Compressor Drain Kit?
I've installed two. One on my dad's 33 gallon, no complaints of it failing and it has been on for 4 or 5 years now probably only getting used a couple dozen times a year.

The other on my 26 gallon which I had issues with the plastic line shooting out of the compression fitting. Once I got that squared away, it was fine the few times I used it before upgrading to a 60 gallon.

I did read that if you put the plastic line too close to the compressor, it will heat up and the line will fail prematurely due to heat/melting.

A good idea I saw on the net somewhere was to use a ball valve and plumbing fittings on the release valve on the bottom. Then just go over and open it at the end of each session to let the water out. I do not know if this needs to be a special ball valve for handling air instead of water, but seems like a sound idea.
 

lipadj46

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I know these have been posted before but figure I would add my .02:

2.5 CFM Vacuum Pump: PASS

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/refrigeration/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

I would have liked to have bought the 2 stage pump but this was on sale for $80 the with 20% off is was $64. I added $20 for the 2 year warranty.

AC Manifold Gauge Set: PASS

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/refrigeration/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

I know there are a few negative reviews on these but as I understand HF changed the design and these are more reliable. I used this to recharge the R134a on 2 of my vehicles and they worked great. I'm kicking myself though because 2 days after I bought and used these a USA made set came up on craigslist. Oh well.

Halogen leak detector: PASS

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ic-freon-and-halogen-leak-detector-92514.html

Does what it says, got it for cheap on the open box table. The same unit sells for much more elsewhere.
 

scott37300

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I tried searching the thread, but it was hard to do with the search terms I tried. Anybody have a pass/fail of these yet, http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hex-wrenches/18-piece-t-handle-ball-point-and-hex-key-wrench-set-96645.html

I believe mechanicnamedjohn said that his were good. I bought a set last time they were on sale and they are so so in my opinion. They aren't comfy at all, the plastic is really cheap and rough. They function alright, a couple of mine were not a 90* bent so one of the ends comes out of the plastic a little crooked. For the price they are ok but I will be replacing them with a nicer set sometime down the road. I like the matco ones but they are 70 bucks for each set.
 

mojo_13

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hedjhawg

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I tried searching the thread, but it was hard to do with the search terms I tried. Anybody have a pass/fail of these yet, http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hex-wrenches/18-piece-t-handle-ball-point-and-hex-key-wrench-set-96645.html

I'm generally a HF fan, but these are marginal at best - OK for the sale price minus 20%, but this is a case where you get what you pay for. You will want to upgrade soon.

Notiuce that there are some sizes missing. For example, there is 1 7/32 and a 5/16... but the set is missing a 1/4" - probably the most common size that I run into is 1/4".

On a scale of 1-10 (10 is good), these would be luck you get a 3...
 

subarub4

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So I think I posted here how I brought the blow gun yesterday item 3962..

Well on the back it says not to exceed 30 psi.. well I had to clean some parts nice and dry and 30 psi was not going to do it at all.. So I ran it at 125 psi and it did well nothing crazy happened and the rubber tip was fine.

So PASS
 

mkirkpatrick

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subarub4

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I see the AC manifold gauge kit they changed the instructions.. I don't think I was the only one who was confused on the way you should unscrew the quick connects when connected to the system..

Still a Pass but I think the low side will leak out vacuum if you close it too tight... I'd have to test with the vac pump on the low side only.
 

mindedc

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Jan 25, 2010
Messages
24
I've installed two. One on my dad's 33 gallon, no complaints of it failing and it has been on for 4 or 5 years now probably only getting used a couple dozen times a year.

The other on my 26 gallon which I had issues with the plastic line shooting out of the compression fitting. Once I got that squared away, it was fine the few times I used it before upgrading to a 60 gallon.

I did read that if you put the plastic line too close to the compressor, it will heat up and the line will fail prematurely due to heat/melting.

A good idea I saw on the net somewhere was to use a ball valve and plumbing fittings on the release valve on the bottom. Then just go over and open it at the end of each session to let the water out. I do not know if this needs to be a special ball valve for handling air instead of water, but seems like a sound idea.

I have had one of these on my 60 gal CH/Husky compressor for a few years. I've seen a few problems. The first problem is that the pneumatic "motor" that operates the autodrain uses a really thin rubber membrane to actuate the release valve. small ammounts of rust from the tank eventually caused the mechanism and membrane to fail. You might prevent this by cleaning it out periodically and probably lubricating it. My solution was to buy a replacement kit (actually a few replacement kits for spares).

I also had the cheapo plastic tube going back to the unloader valve melt on the first use. I replaced this with some copper tubing. Unfortunately I can't get the original nicer plastic tube from CH/Husky off of the four way pressure switch to replace it with copper so I have a jimmied up configuration there.

If anyone knows how to get that fitting off I would really appreciate the info :) I'm afraid to try and force it off because the four way switch deal is pretty expensive.

The auto drain seems to not always get all of the water out so I also have a 1/4 turn valve on the drain to check/fully flush manually. I don't know if I would do it over again. My fear was that it would run at the end of the day on say sunday while using it and cool down overnight and have water sitting in it for a few weeks until I used it again. I thought the auto drain would do a better job of clearing the water. I'm committed now with my unloader hose cut, so I am leaving it in.

I guess it gets a barely pass.
 

lipadj46

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I see the AC manifold gauge kit they changed the instructions.. I don't think I was the only one who was confused on the way you should unscrew the quick connects when connected to the system..

Still a Pass but I think the low side will leak out vacuum if you close it too tight... I'd have to test with the vac pump on the low side only.

The directions for the AC manifold gauges **** but it it pretty easy to figure out after fiddling with it for a while. I had my vacuum hooked up to both the high and low end and it held the vacuum for an hour with the pump off (I was looking for a leak).
 

subarub4

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The directions for the AC manifold gauges **** but it it pretty easy to figure out after fiddling with it for a while. I had my vacuum hooked up to both the high and low end and it held the vacuum for an hour with the pump off (I was looking for a leak).

yeah well I wasted like 2 can after I noticed that open meant screwing the connection to the A/C line down.

and I'd have to check of the leak in the gauge happens if you close the low too tight, it drove me crazy that day as soon as I closed the valves and turned off the pump I was like wow I just wasted an hour of my time... Only after messing with the valve did I find out the pressure held when I did not close it as tight.
 

lipadj46

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yeah well I wasted like 2 can after I noticed that open meant screwing the connection to the A/C line down.

and I'd have to check of the leak in the gauge happens if you close the low too tight, it drove me crazy that day as soon as I closed the valves and turned off the pump I was like wow I just wasted an hour of my time... Only after messing with the valve did I find out the pressure held when I did not close it as tight.

Yeah I tried to put the high pressure quick connect on the high line with the valve open (all the way clockwise) and got a nice shower of oil in the face. That is how I figured out turning them counter clockwise is closed. I think my directions were actually backwards.
 

subarub4

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Yeah I tried to put the high pressure quick connect on the high line with the valve open (all the way clockwise) and got a nice shower of oil in the face. That is how I figured out turning them counter clockwise is closed. I think my directions were actually backwards.

is your directions the black and white one with a picture of the gauge set? That's the version I have.. I think they are backwards too..
 
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Tom2

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I have the flyswatter as well. It shocked me at first when I hit the first bug with it! Sparks flew! Was awesome..

I imagine it eats batteries pretty quickly though. I hit a fly with it yesterday and it just shocked it. Have barely used it, so hopefully it doesn't eat batteries that fast.
Still worth having around for nights in the garage when the bugs get bad.



Does anyone have this soldering gun?
http://www.harborfreight.com/180-watt-industrial-soldering-gun-4328.html

image_1032.jpg



I could use one, and I have some HF store credit. The reviews are pretty mixed. Sounds like the tips ****, but you can get cheap replacement ones at Sears.

I always hated soldering because I ussed crappy guns, so I'd like a decent one. I just don't feel like spending $50+ at Sears for one. Especially when I have store credit at HF, so it'll be basically free.
 

64merc

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No, those electric fly swatters do not eat up batteries quickly at all. I've been using mine for at least a year now on the same batteries. I don't use it every day, but it always works when I need it. Everyone should own one.
 

Tom2

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Ok good. It probably also depends what brand of batteries you use.
 

mrholeshot

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This thing rocks.....
image_764.jpg

First time I used it, the bug burst into flame and a wing flew off......
we have one we caught on sale about 5 years ago. Works great and still on the same two D cells that came in it. Great for killing spiders and wasp outside. We make quite a sport of it.
 

cheap bastard

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I have had the electric flyswatter for years. It's not much good for fast flies as they seem to avoid it well. Wasps, slower flies and such are great fun though.
The soldering gun just isn't very good. I've used one at a friends shop and found the feel to be all wrong and the tip was sloooow to heat up. If you have time, hit the flea markets or garage sales and get a decent old Weller for a pittance. I have picked up four in the last two years and still haven't spent $25 on them. One came home for three bucks last week. I have given them to the kids so mine isn't loaned out when it's needed.
 
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King Bojack

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My dad recently got some vinyl straps and they're a pass.

Also got a Cen-Tech mid level DMM (the one that looks like a Fluke knock off with a red rubber case) and it passes fairly well against a Fluke 87. So pass as well (at least for Auto work).
 

ytlas

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I could use one, and I have some HF store credit. The reviews are pretty mixed. Sounds like the tips ****, but you can get cheap replacement ones at Sears.

I always hated soldering because I ussed crappy guns, so I'd like a decent one. I just don't feel like spending $50+ at Sears for one. Especially when I have store credit at HF, so it'll be basically free.

I have the soldering gun. It takes a bit getting used to because it doesn't have the copper tips like my old Weller gun. The solder doesn't stick to the HF tips, but it provides quick heat to melt the solder to the wires. It's a PASS for me.
 

ZRX61

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we have one we caught on sale about 5 years ago. Works great and still on the same two D cells that came in it. Great for killing spiders and wasp outside. We make quite a sport of it.


Sit in the middle of the yard at night with a flashlight to attract the bugs & you can massacre them by the thousand..:thumbup:






er, or so I'm told.. apparently....
 

subarub4

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speaking of batteries those HF AAA, C's and D and AA batteries are not all that great.. they can't take a decent discharge rate without dipping the voltage down too low to play in a walkman.

So FAIL
 

subarub4

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My dad recently got some vinyl straps and they're a pass.

Also got a Cen-Tech mid level DMM (the one that looks like a Fluke knock off with a red rubber case) and it passes fairly well against a Fluke 87. So pass as well (at least for Auto work).

The one that comes with the temp probe?
 

King Bojack

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The one that comes with the temp probe?

Yeah, Cen-Tech P37772 is what it's called I guess. Tested against a Fluke 87III at my auto school against a few simple resistors bought at Radio Shack and a wall outlet for AC Volts and was w/in a few ohms/volts off of the much much much more expensive Fluke.

Do wish it had a backlight though. Does have a neat flip screen and did come with a temp probe which tells me that I'm warm and ice is really cold so it works as well as any I guess. I haven't heated up some water or something and tested against a dedicated thermometer and it only reports in C for some reason but whatevs. This thing should work all right for my auto work since you rarely have to be ultra spot on in milli-ohms or milli-volts in auto work. Sure beats the pants off a simple test light diagnostically speaking.
 

subarub4

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The only thing I don't think it does is Auto ranging.. I found a nice model on ebay that has about the same features and does auto ranging.
 

King Bojack

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The only thing I don't think it does is Auto ranging.. I found a nice model on ebay that has about the same features and does auto ranging.

It doesn't auto range but pops got it for me as a gift so I don't mind flipping a switch here and there. Does what I need it to do for the time being it's a good deal for me.
 

msmith

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Electric Pressure Washer - Epic Fail

I made the mistake of buying this turd a few years ago and it broke the second time I used it... not that it worked very well the first time, either. Complete ****.
 

jasond

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Feb 22, 2010
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diegrinder.jpg

Item 93088 FAIL

Right out of the box, I put the air ****** on, a couple drops of air tool oil and hooked the hose up. It spun full speed without me pulling the trigger. Thankfully I didn't have any attachments on it, or I may be typing with less than 10 fingers.
 

JohnFreeman

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I have the soldering gun. It takes a bit getting used to because it doesn't have the copper tips like my old Weller gun. The solder doesn't stick to the HF tips, but it provides quick heat to melt the solder to the wires. It's a PASS for me.

It'll never be Weller , but even so, you can MAKE the tips out of some solid number 12 wire..... that's all it is. Flux the tip and tin it, and you're good. Rosin core flux only please.
 
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