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The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)

kctyphoon

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KC,
Now that you have the mid torque, what are thoughts on it, or opinions ?

Thanks

I haven't even used it yet.. but my OPINION is that if you could only buy one model, I think this would be the most versatile.. really REALLY wish they made a 3/8" version though..

The 3/8 isn't strong enough sometimes, even with stuff you'd think it should be.. the mid torque is just a bit bigger and packs a lot more punch as far as ratings go.. I've had the 3/8 not be able to remove a caliper bolt, so for someone working on cars a lot - for now, this seems like a great option... I have a set of sunex swivels in 3/8 that woulda been great to get in 1/2" instead now that I have this thing.. can't really complain though, cause for me if it helps with one project then I'm satisfied.. I'm not the person that NEEDS these things for home, I just want them to make my life easier when I can use them. For work I'd have no use for the square drive impacts. We don't use those..

Only thing that *****, is I'd think more hobbyists or home mechanics would be more invested in 3/8 sockets for anything specially like swivels and such.
 
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DFB

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Agreed. That's a good kit. I actually prefer the compact batteries on impact drivers.

Speaking of which, I still want a Fuel impact. Getting tired of using the 1/2"-1/4" female adapter on my 2755B and while I love my RA impact, it'd be nice to have a conventional pistol grip style one. I just dunno what to get.

It'll be used mostly on vehicles/motorcycles for small fasteners and quick changes between drive styles, so I think the Surge is outta the question since it's only really meant for driving screws. Then there's the tried and true 2753, which is tempting since it's simple and cheap. I'm really interested in the OK version though so I can manipulate the drive modes. I'd love to have a mode that ramps up slowly, spins fast, then stops right before it wants to impact (almost like a "finger tight" setting). Another mode that's just a little more powerful than that, maybe a couple impacts. Then one that's balls to the wall maxed out. And finally one for self tappers.

I don't know, what do you guys think?

I don't know either but I guess it be fun to play around with it :bounce:

The self tapping setup of fast then slow does seem to work right for the application because it too easy to break thru and strip out your material finessing it yourself using the the trigger to control the speed/

I've tightened lot of bolts in many applications using these various Milwaukee impact wrenches and drivers and so far for me the adjustable modes on different FUELS have been really good compared to just variable speed trigger control like found on the brushed models.

I can see what your after and actually that #4 mode on the 27xx wenches is described as just about doing that right? A fast run down and 1 sec stop impact though it doesn't work that great at least not for me anyways. Too many variables with it I guess.

As for fast rundown I dunno how fast do you want it I think like standard mode one at 900rpm is just fine for assembly and like mode 2 1600 things are quite instantaneous over and inch or so of thread. :p

The only time I found a speed slooow is in mode 1 on the 2763 once you have lug nuts started and your running them down using that setting so there is no chance of damage or over tightening.

Workshop Addict claimed he set some modes for specific applications but from what I understand you will get the same thing in reverse too so I'm not quite sure how that might work out :headscrat:

To me there is just so much variable in the impacting...ipm/rpm, trigger speed/duration/bolt size I don't know if they ever could get handle on fine tuning any actual torque settings.

Cant hardly believe you don't already have hex impact driver. I often find them much handier than the sq drive especially with various hex shanked nutsetters and socket adapters in various lengths.

I have 2653 and 2655B both are only the 3 speeds and my M12 Fuels only have 2 modes as does the 2763 but have been getting long just fine with them all, though I definitely would like to see an improved 2763 with more mode controls. I even went for the M12 hex screwdriver to do small stuff, self threading screws and smaller fasteners under 1/2" in head size certain stuff on small engines, lawn tractors, body panels screws, cheap hardware you know like you get from HF :lol:

Using impacts in certain applications you can risk stripping or even breaking
something quick if your not being real careful, gees even one time with the lowly battery powered ratchet I snapped off a mounting tab much to my surprise as I was reassembling my tractors tunnel cover (was some kind of plastic)

Should have stuck with a hand held nutdriver :lol_hitti
 
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Distrophe

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Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
264
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Northern California
I bought an m12 fuel kit two weeks ago for 230 and got a free ratchet. Today that kit is 169 but no free tool. I asked if I was eligible for the price difference and they said sure and refunded me 63 dollars.
Kits are $170 w/o 3rd tool or $230 with. HD just gave away $63. I just bought the 2597 kit @ $170. Now I feel I should've done a $230 kit w/ tool to try this "refund". Ethical? Lol. [emoji385] [emoji383] [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 

Ign

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Butte Peak ND
To me there is just so much variable in the impacting...ipm/rpm, trigger speed/duration/bolt size I don't know if they ever could get handle on fine tuning any actual torque settings. {major snippage}

This is what I've been saying for a long time. It would take some incredibly sophisticated electronics/sensors etc to really get accurate torque settings regardless of user or technique.

It's easy to see...........just grab a cordless drill, set the clutch to a random setting and run a wood screw in at WOT. Then try it at 1/2 speed, etc. With sockets and nuts things like momentum, inertia and other terms I don't even know come into play.

I'm not even sure what the last mode of the Surge is supposed to do but it would just keep burying a #8 wood screw in a standard 2x4....other times it would stop prematurely.
 

Ign

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Oh and here's a random *****: the M12 right angle drill is 3/8" but the M18 version should be 1/2". Just sayin'.........

I do have the V28 monster right angle drill but it's a bit much sometimes.
 

kctyphoon

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Just posting this - the HF underhood, Neiko underhood, and Capri Tools/Neiko stick light..

IMG_2021.jpg
 

kctyphoon

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Ok so I took pics for you guys.. lemme explain a couple things quick.

First - I turned off all my outside lights to make it as dark as possible, so even a dim light is gonna look pretty decent in near total darkness. So keep in mind normally the light is gonna have to overcome whatever ambient light you're working in to really be effective.

Second - I'm trying to be as fair to each light as possible, so what I did was mount every light using the Neiko's bar. This way they are all generally in the same place. That said - I'd NEVER be able to mount the HF light or the Neiko stick light where they are.. without the underhood bar the HF is VERY, VERY limited as to where you can mount it because of its size. The hooks on it ****, and I don't recall the magnets being anything spectacular. The Neiko stick light would never be able to be there either, but being smaller, and with MUCH better hooks, you have a lot more options - and still have a detachable magnet mount too.. but the reality is that this is a pure fantasy scenario. You WILL NOT be able to by the HF and mount it anywhere you want like you can with the big Neiko,, your choices will be very VERY limited as to where you can actually stick that thing - another reason why I don't use it.l

Third - I'm having trouble with the way the HF light shows up on the camera, and I couldn't figure out why it was looking so bright in the pics. I had to redo them as best I could, so the bar might not be EXACTLY in the same spot. The issue is this - both Neiko's use the newer slim on board LED's - so the bulbs themselves are mostly shaded from the camera and pointing straight down. The HF model on the other hand, uses the really old "first gen" type LED's that are basically shaped like mini light bulbs.. they stick down from their board so far that they are past the shaded area of the lens, and no matter what I do, they are casting light directly into the camera lens and washing it out a bit.. so - the pics are what they are.. you guys with just need to keep that in mind. It shows up looking brighter than it actually is because of this.

Last - I'm fully aware the small Neiko is not gonna light up the ENTIRE engine like the others do in the pictures, but I still put it in the center to be fair. Normally you won't be working in the ENTIRE engine bay, and more like one side or one corner - which is why I feel the small Neiko is better than the HF. It does better at not being washed out at the top of the motor, and will cast more light deeper into a concentrated area of the engine bay. Not to mention that for almost the same money, it's much more versatile that just having the HF model instead.. sorta looks like in my pic it wasn't pointing STRAIGHT down, since you see such a bright spot right behind it.. I should have turned it slightly more towards the nose of the car..

If nothing else these pics give a general idea... and will at least show you a clear winner.

Battery sizes as follows, all lithium ion:
HF -1800 mah
Neiko stick - 4000mah
Neiko underhood - 8000mah

The HF and Neiko stick are fully charged, the Neiko underhood light has whatever it came with outta the box, so maybe half charged if that - I'd guess..

Pics will go in this order:
HF low
Neiko underhood low
Neiko stick light "ON" (only one setting)
HF high
Neiko underhood high

IMG_2027.jpg

IMG_2022.jpg

IMG_2026.jpg

IMG_2028.jpg

IMG_2023.jpg



For shits and giggles - consider this - the HF's actual "bulb span" on the board (the physical length from the first bulb to the last bulb) is longer than the Neiko's - yet look at how much brighter the edges of the engine Bay Area are with the Neiko on low, compared to the HF on high..

Pics in this order -
HF high
Neiko underhood low
Neiko underhood high


IMG_2028.jpg

IMG_2022.jpg

IMG_2023.jpg


Summary -

These pictures are REALLY not doing the small Neiko justice, and I'll try to explain why - and why the HF ***** IMO.. The difference between them is this, the HF is more of a spot light. It's giving you a very bright spot directly under all the lights, and a very narrow spot at that.. your gonna have a bright spot only a few inches wide with the HF, and then the light quickly washes out and dims out around that spot. Think of the difference of an old incandescent flashlight vs a new led.. the old flashlight give you one narrow area of really bright light, and everything that surrounds it is much MUCH dimmer. With the new led version, the light is very wide, very even flood, and while it's not as bright as the old one's "bright spot" you can basically point the led in a general direction and have a wide working area, instead of having to pinpoint your bright spot on the old version.. this is very much like the HF vs both Neiko lights. This is where the mounting options become very important. The HF is so limited, that you stand a very small chance of getting the bright spot where you want it, esp when it's so close to the engine.. the small Neiko on the other hand, has a MUCH wider cast of light in every direction, and MUCH more places you can actually stick it - so it's not important that you "aim" it where you need it. The HF will always hang straight down using the mangnets since it suspends the light from a cord, and the hooks are so small they won't fit around anything you need them to.. in the pics, you're seeing the reflection of the Hf's very narrow bright spot, giving it the appearance of giving you a much bigger area of usable work space..

The big Neiko is just better than both for an underhood light. The light itself is bigger, brighter, and you get the hood mount. But the small Neiko is still a much better option then the HF in about a dozen different ways.. for $35, buy one and you'll see for yourself. If I could find an empty wall to cast all the lights against, and take pics BEHIND the lights - what I'm saying would be plainly visible I suspect...
 
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DFB

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I can see the differences quite well

Neiko looks very bright

I was watching some youtube on the HF and you can see how the light is concentrated Is battery life is pretty poor too? One review said you get less than hr on high about 45 min tops

I'll be looking forward to seeing something coming from Milwaukee

Maybe even a short wand be cool provided its at least 3x as bright as the current M12 stick. Guaranteed it be more than the Neiko even as a bare tool :D
 

MikeF2316

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Dec 29, 2012
Messages
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Thornhill, ON
Agreed. That's a good kit. I actually prefer the compact batteries on impact drivers.

Speaking of which, I still want a Fuel impact. Getting tired of using the 1/2"-1/4" female adapter on my 2755B and while I love my RA impact, it'd be nice to have a conventional pistol grip style one. I just dunno what to get.

It'll be used mostly on vehicles/motorcycles for small fasteners and quick changes between drive styles, so I think the Surge is outta the question since it's only really meant for driving screws. Then there's the tried and true 2753, which is tempting since it's simple and cheap. I'm really interested in the OK version though so I can manipulate the drive modes. I'd love to have a mode that ramps up slowly, spins fast, then stops right before it wants to impact (almost like a "finger tight" setting). Another mode that's just a little more powerful than that, maybe a couple impacts. Then one that's balls to the wall maxed out. And finally one for self tappers.

I don't know, what do you guys think?

To run things in fast, but with very low torque I use a drill with adapter with the clutch set on minimum.

I had an issue where I was putting self drilling screws into ⅛" thick steel. So there I was at high speed, drilling away, then all of a sudden the drill breaks through and you have 5 revolutions to stop. Of course, I couldn't even react in that time, the screw went down and broke the tip off the phillips bit I was using. I only had the one bit, so I went and grabbed a couple more. I repeated, but with the clutch on low. Much better, the bit still looked brand new at the end of the job.
Not exactly the same as running nuts/bolts down, but same general idea.
 

walrus

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I bought the Neiko light bar, I don't like the spring mounted bars, haven't tried magnets yet. I do like like how bright it is. I have some work above a suspended ceiling next week may try it up there to see how it works.
 

cool_as_crap

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Dec 11, 2014
Messages
98
Dang, I didn't know I needed an underhood light until I checked this forum. :lol:
Thanks for the comparison!
 

Hendricks433

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Mar 4, 2017
Messages
81
Was just in HD and looks like most of the tools prices have dropped. I bought an m12 fuel kit two weeks ago for 230 and got a free ratchet. Today that kit is 169 but no free tool. I asked if I was eligible for the price difference and they said sure and refunded me 63 dollars.

Decided to go take advantage of the free m18 fuel circular saw deal when you buy the 9 amp battery. Really thought about picking up the m12 circular saw also for 120 bucks to use as a trim saw. But had to stop somewhere. This m18 and m12 addiction is getting really expensive!

Went into the store and asked about the price difference. They called the online store support and after 10 minutes they said I would get a refund and an email with my updated receipt. Wow.

While I was waiting I looked at the online store and the kit with the free tool is still on there for $229.

Not sure how I feel about it haha.
 

Distrophe

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Mar 24, 2013
Messages
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Northern California
Edit : kctyphoon, model 48-22-2606? $20 or so seems ok.

Went into the store and asked about the price difference. They called the online store support and after 10 minutes they said I would get a refund and an email with my updated receipt. Wow.



While I was waiting I looked at the online store and the kit with the free tool is still on there for $229.



Not sure how I feel about it haha.



Lol, wtf. Sweet, another $60 gift. Now I am really thinking of returning my Drill/impact kit & ordering a kit w/ extra ratchet etc. [emoji848]
I'd prefer a kit with Impact & Ratchet, for drills I have an M18 Fuel. [emoji106]


Sent from tablet on Tapatalk
 
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SuzukiGS750EZ

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Apr 26, 2012
Messages
3,273
Ok so I took pics for you guys.. lemme explain a couple things quick.

First - I turned off all my outside lights to make it as dark as possible, so even a dim light is gonna look pretty decent in near total darkness. So keep in mind normally the light is gonna have to overcome whatever ambient light you're working in to really be effective.

Second - I'm trying to be as fair to each light as possible, so what I did was mount every light using the Neiko's bar. This way they are all generally in the same place. That said - I'd NEVER be able to mount the HF light or the Neiko stick light where they are.. without the underhood bar the HF is VERY, VERY limited as to where you can mount it because of its size. The hooks on it ****, and I don't recall the magnets being anything spectacular. The Neiko stick light would never be able to be there either, but being smaller, and with MUCH better hooks, you have a lot more options - and still have a detachable magnet mount too.. but the reality is that this is a pure fantasy scenario. You WILL NOT be able to by the HF and mount it anywhere you want like you can with the big Neiko,, your choices will be very VERY limited as to where you can actually stick that thing - another reason why I don't use it.l

Third - I'm having trouble with the way the HF light shows up on the camera, and I couldn't figure out why it was looking so bright in the pics. I had to redo them as best I could, so the bar might not be EXACTLY in the same spot. The issue is this - both Neiko's use the newer slim on board LED's - so the bulbs themselves are mostly shaded from the camera and pointing straight down. The HF model on the other hand, uses the really old "first gen" type LED's that are basically shaped like mini light bulbs.. they stick down from their board so far that they are past the shaded area of the lens, and no matter what I do, they are casting light directly into the camera lens and washing it out a bit.. so - the pics are what they are.. you guys with just need to keep that in mind. It shows up looking brighter than it actually is because of this.

Last - I'm fully aware the small Neiko is not gonna light up the ENTIRE engine like the others do in the pictures, but I still put it in the center to be fair. Normally you won't be working in the ENTIRE engine bay, and more like one side or one corner - which is why I feel the small Neiko is better than the HF. It does better at not being washed out at the top of the motor, and will cast more light deeper into a concentrated area of the engine bay. Not to mention that for almost the same money, it's much more versatile that just having the HF model instead.. sorta looks like in my pic it wasn't pointing STRAIGHT down, since you see such a bright spot right behind it.. I should have turned it slightly more towards the nose of the car..

If nothing else these pics give a general idea... and will at least show you a clear winner.

Battery sizes as follows, all lithium ion:
HF -1800 mah
Neiko stick - 4000mah
Neiko underhood - 8000mah

The HF and Neiko stick are fully charged, the Neiko underhood light has whatever it came with outta the box, so maybe half charged if that - I'd guess..

Pics will go in this order:
HF low
Neiko underhood low
Neiko stick light "ON" (only one setting)
HF high
Neiko underhood high

IMG_2027.jpg

IMG_2022.jpg

IMG_2026.jpg

IMG_2028.jpg

IMG_2023.jpg



For shits and giggles - consider this - the HF's actual "bulb span" on the board (the physical length from the first bulb to the last bulb) is longer than the Neiko's - yet look at how much brighter the edges of the engine Bay Area are with the Neiko on low, compared to the HF on high..

Pics in this order -
HF high
Neiko underhood low
Neiko underhood high


IMG_2028.jpg

IMG_2022.jpg

IMG_2023.jpg


Summary -

These pictures are REALLY not doing the small Neiko justice, and I'll try to explain why - and why the HF ***** IMO.. The difference between them is this, the HF is more of a spot light. It's giving you a very bright spot directly under all the lights, and a very narrow spot at that.. your gonna have a bright spot only a few inches wide with the HF, and then the light quickly washes out and dims out around that spot. Think of the difference of an old incandescent flashlight vs a new led.. the old flashlight give you one narrow area of really bright light, and everything that surrounds it is much MUCH dimmer. With the new led version, the light is very wide, very even flood, and while it's not as bright as the old one's "bright spot" you can basically point the led in a general direction and have a wide working area, instead of having to pinpoint your bright spot on the old version.. this is very much like the HF vs both Neiko lights. This is where the mounting options become very important. The HF is so limited, that you stand a very small chance of getting the bright spot where you want it, esp when it's so close to the engine.. the small Neiko on the other hand, has a MUCH wider cast of light in every direction, and MUCH more places you can actually stick it - so it's not important that you "aim" it where you need it. The HF will always hang straight down using the mangnets since it suspends the light from a cord, and the hooks are so small they won't fit around anything you need them to.. in the pics, you're seeing the reflection of the Hf's very narrow bright spot, giving it the appearance of giving you a much bigger area of usable work space..

The big Neiko is just better than both for an underhood light. The light itself is bigger, brighter, and you get the hood mount. But the small Neiko is still a much better option then the HF in about a dozen different ways.. for $35, buy one and you'll see for yourself. If I could find an empty wall to cast all the lights against, and take pics BEHIND the lights - what I'm saying would be plainly visible I suspect...
I can't take your word for it, you drive a honda... just kidding. Thanks for the pics. I own a smaller craftsmen stick light which works well, but the magnet leaves a lot to be desired. Thinking I may go to the hardware store and find a neodymium magnet to replace the one on the tool with.
 
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a52-830

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north of boston, massachusetts
Went into the store and asked about the price difference. They called the online store support and after 10 minutes they said I would get a refund and an email with my updated receipt. Wow.

While I was waiting I looked at the online store and the kit with the free tool is still on there for $229.

Not sure how I feel about it haha.

this is what happens when you screw around too much by offering too many deals with too many options. it is easy to get confused.

the locals even got confused, so they called the help desk, which should know better, and they were just as confused.

this isn't the local guy you took advantage of, this is a big company that has the resources to know better, and would do the same to you without a second thought.
 

DerekV

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Joined
Oct 12, 2016
Messages
1,070
Location
Central TX
I can see what your after and actually that #4 mode on the 27xx wenches is described as just about doing that right? A fast run down and 1 sec stop impact though it doesn't work that great at least not for me anyways. Too many variables with it I guess.

Sort of the same idea, yes, but one that's more fine tuned, if possible. I don't know since I haven't played around with OK, so that's why I'm asking to see if others can shed some light. However, it does appear to be possible from the screen shots that I've seen. There's a lot of adjustability...I just wonder how it translates in real life.



To me there is just so much variable in the impacting...ipm/rpm, trigger speed/duration/bolt size I don't know if they ever could get handle on fine tuning any actual torque settings.



I'm not looking for exact torque settings. More like once the motor senses a certain degree of resistance it'll just shut off. The two ideal low settings I described would be very low torque. Low enough where I'd need to go back with a torque wrench or a few zaps of the full bore setting. But just enough torque for typical screw fasteners on cars.

Cant hardly believe you don't already have hex impact driver.


Me either!

To run things in fast, but with very low torque I use a drill with adapter with the clutch set on minimum.

That's one of effects I'm after, but I don't want to use a drill. I'm trying to mimic the "hand right" and "wrench type" features of the newer IR impact, while also have a full throttle mode for power and a self tapping screw mode (just like mode 4 in the 2753/Surge). I FEEL like it's possible but I don't KNOW if it's possible haha. Expensive gamble! Thanks anyways for your input.

I guess I'll just get OK impact. If I don't like it, I just won't use the adjustable settings.
 

kctyphoon

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I can't take your word for it, you drive a honda... just kidding. Thanks for the pics. I own a smaller craftsmen stick light which works well, but the magnet leaves a lot to be desired. Thinking I may go to the hardware store and find a neodymium magnet to replace the one on the tool with.

You can get good magnets at Hd in the hardware isle.. they have them rated up supporting 95 pounds that are round, covered with a metal casing on one side, that already have a hole in the center of the case to accept a hook or any hardware you might wanna bolt in.. the 95lb one is like $8.. I just bought another 65lb an hour ago for a mount I'm gonna make for work. I BELIEVE they go all the way down to 15 lb.. they are in the hardware isle, with some on the first endcap, and a bigger selection above some of the loose nuts and bolts.

Edit - here's the 65# model, other sizes are available..
http://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-MAGNETICS-65-lb-Heavy-Duty-Round-Pull-Magnets-96354/203613136
 
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heffneil

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Apr 12, 2009
Messages
722
Location
Naples FL
Hey guys I really want the hard top bag. Any ideas on how to score one for less than $200? For that price I should just buy a suit case!
 

Bighead38

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Messages
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Location
Rockland County NY
They just got 2 new bags in my local hd. The big hardtop was nice but I need to look better next time. The smaller one was way smaller than I expected, at the quick look I had I think my Milwaukee backpack might hold more.
 

DFB

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Messages
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Often the best deals to be found are the ACME Tool site wide sales...anywhere from 10-20% off is usual. I most always buy then :D

There's been a few reviews on the new bags They say the hardtop lid can support over 200lbs Supposed to be the wheels and handles on the Milwaukee's are better than found on some other rolling bags too.


 

kctyphoon

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Hey guys I really want the hard top bag. Any ideas on how to score one for less than $200? For that price I should just buy a suit case!

Before you buy the Milwaukee, search YouTube (I'll try to find the video later) for a vid some guy made comparing the new Milwaukee to the Husky model.. depending on what you need - the Husky might be a better choice.

Im getting tired of these YouTube "tool reviews" that are really just paid ****** commercials at this point - where guys are willing to endorse anything - so long as the company gives them one for free..

Anyway - try to find that video.. it's from. Someone that actually is using the bags, and gave them a very good , honest, CRITICAL review...
 

Caparris

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Greensboro, NC
Im getting tired of these YouTube "tool reviews" that are really just paid ****** commercials at this point - where guys are willing to endorse anything - so long as the company gives them one for free..

So true.. youtube is turning into a giant ad

Tools in action doesn't even seem to try anymore, they're just like sticking a product on the table and reading through the specs. Lot of talking, not much action
 

kctyphoon

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So true.. youtube is turning into a giant ad

Tools in action doesn't even seem to try anymore, they're just like sticking a product on the table and reading through the specs. Lot of talking, not much action

All those guys do is read the box, and you'll NEVER hear anything bad pointed out anymore.. they went from comparing tools to each other to help people, to just a pointless commercial that's only posted to grow the pile of **** they have in their garage.

I don't dislike the poeple that are trying to further themselves, but if your gonna use YouTube as an outlet - they should at least have the balls to tell companies "look - this is MY channel, this is what I do on it, and I'm happy to review the products but my opinion will be posted good, bad, or indifferent"...

They all just handed their channel over for free **** - and stopped doing what they started which was trying to help the people...
 

firworks

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Some company lawyer probably threatened litigation for any negative product reviews too :lol:

Bosnian Bill has gotten legal threats from Masterlock before for showing what a joke their locks are. I haven't heard of it yet as far as tool reviews go. I didn't get any threats from Dremel at least! :thumbup:
 

DFB

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Southern VT/Western Mass
Is this the comparison video with Husky?



So his beef was all the stuff in he had in the Husky didn't fit in the Milwaukee the way he wanted it to. And he didn't like the pockets and that they were too big for his small screwdrivers. :dunno:

And he does also admit he grossly overpaid buying it when he did :D


The new Husky rolling is certainly overall bigger even schill Robbilard pointed that out in his Milwaukee video (and he also reviewed the new Husky bag separately about a year ago. link to that to the Husky bag here )


I haven't really had a need for rolling bag but I did get the big 26" plastic work box to tote and keep contained a lot of my carpentry tools. It fits a 24" level inside the box too!
 

kctyphoon

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Jun 9, 2014
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9,102
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Jersey/Staten Island
I think the guy made a valid point about the pockets of the Milwaukee bag being generally too big for hand tools.. for most trade guys I'd imagine that's a relevant issue, unless they wanted to carry ANOTHER bag to organize hand tools..

I think the Milwaukee is probably much better made, but the dimensions and layout on the Husky seems like it might be more beneficial for alot of people..

What would be nice, is if Milwaukee created a modular/ stacking / rolling case like Ridgid has.. the Ridgid is actually very nice, but a little small to carry more than just a few power tools.
 

JimH74

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Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
283
Location
South Central Texas
I know it's not a mechanic's tool, but a tool never the less. I'm invested in M12 and I've been watching for a good price on a caulk gun, the smaller one for 10 ounce tubes of caulk. Model 2441-20. Most places have the kit for around 150 and the bare tool for around 120. By any chance, has anyone noticed better pricing anywhere? Thanks in advance! Jim
 
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falconero

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Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
191
Bosnian Bill has gotten legal threats from Masterlock before for showing what a joke their locks are. I haven't heard of it yet as far as tool reviews go. I didn't get any threats from Dremel at least! [emoji106]
Funny you mention that, I just watched a few of his videos and one was the masterlock trailer hitch lock which is basically junk.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

SuzukiGS750EZ

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
3,273
I know it's not a mechanic's tool, but a tool never the less. I'm invested in M12 and I've been watching for a good price on a caulk gun, the smaller one for 10 ounce tubes of caulk. Most places have the kit for around 150 and the bare tool for around 120. By any chance, has anyone noticed better pricing anywhere? Thanks in advance! Jim
Can you find the specific model you're looking for and post it? And do you want the -20 bare tool or one with batteries
 
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