The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)

[TK-421]

I was thinking about getting it also but having 1/2 high torque 3/8 should cover any job that I might do on my cars. These tools are addictive

It's only 10 ft lbs more than the 3/8, so it's not hugely more powerful, but it'd be useful if you need a big socket in a confined space, because you'd lose torque if you used a converter on the 3/8. Granted, I have absolutely no idea on specifics as to where you'd need a big socket in a confined space, but it's nice to have a reason to get the 1/2 compact, even if it's a made up reason.

 

[AndeiH]

It's only 10 ft lbs more than the 3/8, so it's not hugely more powerful, but it'd be useful if you need a big socket in a confined space, because you'd lose torque if you used a converter on the 3/8. Granted, I have absolutely no idea on specifics as to where you'd need a big socket in a confined space, but it's nice to have a reason to get the 1/2 compact, even if it's a made up reason.

under a car supported by ramps or jackstands . i've used my big 1/2" gun to undo some engine cradle bolts, holding that behemoth with your arm extended while on a creeper is no easy task .

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I own the m18 fuel 3/8" and the ir w7150 1/2" and they have me covered. The 3/8 is the most used, I'm glad I went with the ir over the Milwaukee though, my uncle has one and it's a million pounds!

 

[CooperS7777]

Well damn, I guess Im going to have to order the 3/8" compact since its on sale...

 

[Vette10R]

Hey guys I'm hoping this is a good place to ask. I recently sold my house and during the showings someone decided they liked my Milwaukee cordless drill more than me! I know I should of locked it in my tool box but must of slipped my mind...

Anyways I had the Milwaukee 2601-21 which I got for a smoking deal at Home Depot awhile back for $85! Of course that deal is looong gone and it appears the 2601 has been discontinued as well and replaced with the 2701 if I'm not mistaken?

I would love to have another 2601, it was a perfect size/weight and all the power I needed around the house. Does anyone know of a place still selling NOS of these by chance? If not is the 2701 what I need to be looking for to get the same drill basically. unfortunately for me I see the 2701 is $199 more than double what I paid for my 2601 but I was very happy with her and want to stick with Milwaukee!

If you guys could point me in the direction of a NOS 2601 or shed some light on the 2701 I would very much appreciate it! Thanks

 

[Know Wosad]

Jezus. That was hard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-1...596762?hash=item2ef158615a:g:hjkAAOSw3YNXbE88

 

[LB-1911]

I would love to have another 2601, it was a perfect size/weight and all the power I needed around the house. Does anyone know of a place still selling NOS of these by chance?

If you guys could point me in the direction of a NOS 2601 or shed some light on the 2701 I would very much appreciate it! Thanks

Milwaukee Tools 2601-21 M18™ Cordless Compact Drill/Driver Kit with Battery; 18 Volt, Metal Single Sleeve - Ratcheting Lock, 1/2 Inch Chuck, 500 RPM (Low), 1500 RPM (High) RPM, 7-3/4 Inch Long


This product has been discontinued. We currently have 9 remaining in stock.


http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Milwaukee-Tools-2601-21-M18/78720

 

[Vette10R]

Milwaukee Tools 2601-21 M18™ Cordless Compact Drill/Driver Kit with Battery; 18 Volt, Metal Single Sleeve - Ratcheting Lock, 1/2 Inch Chuck, 500 RPM (Low), 1500 RPM (High) RPM, 7-3/4 Inch Long


This product has been discontinued. We currently have 9 remaining in stock.


http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Milwaukee-Tools-2601-21-M18/78720

Nice find! I don't know why I never came across that site?

Now is it worth paying that price for the 2601 or am I better off paying the extra $50 or so for the 2701?

 

[TK-421]

Hey guys I'm hoping this is a good place to ask. I recently sold my house and during the showings someone decided they liked my Milwaukee cordless drill more than me! I know I should of locked it in my tool box but must of slipped my mind...

Anyways I had the Milwaukee 2601-21 which I got for a smoking deal at Home Depot awhile back for $85! Of course that deal is looong gone and it appears the 2601 has been discontinued as well and replaced with the 2701 if I'm not mistaken?

I would love to have another 2601, it was a perfect size/weight and all the power I needed around the house. Does anyone know of a place still selling NOS of these by chance? If not is the 2701 what I need to be looking for to get the same drill basically. unfortunately for me I see the 2701 is $199 more than double what I paid for my 2601 but I was very happy with her and want to stick with Milwaukee!

If you guys could point me in the direction of a NOS 2601 or shed some light on the 2701 I would very much appreciate it! Thanks

Ebay will be your best bet, don't think you'll be able to find nos though, you might have to settle for used.

 

[LB-1911]

Nice find! I don't know why I never came across that site?

Now is it worth paying that price for the 2601 or am I better off paying the extra $50 or so for the 2701?

Spend the extra $50.00, go brushless and you'll have an M-18 / M-12 charger in the event you want to pickup any M12 items along the way.

Model # 2701-22CT
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...rushless-Drill-Driver-Kit-2701-22CT/205846381

 

[Vette10R]

Spend the extra $50.00, go brushless and you'll have an M-18 / M-12 charger in the event you want to pickup any M12 items along the way.

Model # 2701-22CT
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...rushless-Drill-Driver-Kit-2701-22CT/205846381

Thanks for the info, is $199 going to be my best price?

 

[asxy_80]

TK-421 when are you expecting your batteries to arrive so you can check that button on your 1/2 inch impact for me ?

 

[LB-1911]

Thanks for the info, is $199 going to be my best price?

Bare tool is Model # 2701-22CT - $109.00 M/L

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwauk...Krff9tIrNJwdENMwhrVSZU8DWpvhAQA6M8aAgfW8P8HAQ

-20's are bare tools. A -22CT should indicate kit w 2 compact batteries

Thanks for pointing out my error, guess I had to many tabs open.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Nice find! I don't know why I never came across that site?

Now is it worth paying that price for the 2601 or am I better off paying the extra $50 or so for the 2701?

Worth it to upgrade for the 50$. I have the 2604 and it's awesome. Have you considered am impact driver? I use mine more than my drill since I bought it, 80$ on ebay and u bought a 5.0 battery for 40$

 

[Vette10R]

Worth it to upgrade for the 50$. I have the 2604 and it's awesome. Have you considered am impact driver? I use mine more than my drill since I bought it, 80$ on ebay and u bought a 5.0 battery for 40$

I used it for drilling holes as well so the impact wont work well in that configuration. Plus just using it around the house while the kids/wife are sleeping I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate the impact haha

 

[Ign]

Bare tool is Model # 2701-22CT - $109.00 M/L

-20's are bare tools. A -22CT should indicate kit w 2 compact batteries

 

[AdamRos19]

I used it for drilling holes as well so the impact wont work well in that configuration. Plus just using it around the house while the kids/wife are sleeping I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate the impact haha

With the 1/4 hex drill bits, spade bits and auger bits my impact driver works just fine. In some cases better due to the smaller head size of the tool. I can understand the quietness while kids and wife are sleeping but the driver is seemingly just as versatile with the right accessories

 

[UnkleMike]

I used it for drilling holes as well so the impact wont work well in that configuration. Plus just using it around the house while the kids/wife are sleeping I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate the impact haha

I use my Fuel impact driver (gen 2) with a 1.5" Bosch daredevil spade bit with no trouble at all. In contrast, I used the same bit with my drill and almost lost my balance (and my hand), and did lose the bit when the bit jammed I'm the hole; the shank of the bit was permanently twisted and bent, leaving it unusable. To be clear, the bit would have jammed with the impact too, but the bit and my hand would have been fine.

Nose is definitely a factor to consider though.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Vette10R]

With the 1/4 hex drill bits, spade bits and auger bits my impact driver works just fine. In some cases better due to the smaller head size of the tool. I can understand the quietness while kids and wife are sleeping but the driver is seemingly just as versatile with the right accessories

I use my Fuel impact driver (gen 2) with a 1.5" Bosch daredevil spade bit with no trouble at all. In contrast, I used the same bit with my drill and almost lost my balance (and my hand), and did lose the bit when the bit jammed I'm the hole; the shank of the bit was permanently twisted and bent, leaving it unusable. To be clear, the bit would have jammed with the impact too, but the bit and my hand would have been fine.

Nose is definitely a factor to consider though.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I hear ya I guess it just seemed a drill bit would work better in a standard drill vs. impact. Either way I'm not after an impact but appreciate all the comments!

 

[6pony6]

The 20 means it's a bare tool, where you get the tool inside a cardboard box, and that's it. The 22 means it comes with 2 batteries, a charger, and a blow molded case. If you ever see 21 then that means it comes with one battery and a charger, and I think it still comes in a blow molded case, pretty sure the cardboard box is reserved for only the 20.

Thanks for taking the time to answer. It makes more sense now.

 

[dacan23]

Perhaps you should reconsider, if you wanted 1 drill for everything around the house, the Fuel 1/4 Hex Impact is your best bet. It is more powerful than any of the M18 1/2 drills, you can get nice 1/4 hex drill bits up to 1/2", use 1/4 hex spades for anything larger, and the impact features with 1/4 hex for sockets or screws makes things a lot easier.

I hear ya I guess it just seemed a drill bit would work better in a standard drill vs. impact. Either way I'm not after an impact but appreciate all the comments!

 

[TK-421]

TK-421 when are you expecting your batteries to arrive so you can check that button on your 1/2 inch impact for me ?

Was at work, sorry. Got the batteries when I got home, plugged them in, and it's hard to say exactly. It's the kind of "6 to one, half a dozen to the other" kind of situation. To me, I'd say it switches instantly between modes. However, you have to push the button down with some oomph, you have to really mean to push the button, and you have to push it down further than I think you should have to. So I could see how some people might say you have to hold it, due to how far down you have to push it, but, to me, I'd consider it an instant change.

Try pushing it down hard and quick, like you're trying to push it into the battery, not just a soft little jab, and see if you still experience the same thing.

If I had to hazard a guess, without actually holding your impact in my hands, I'd bet that you're just having to push it further than you're expecting to, so you think you're having to hold it, and that there's nothing wrong with it. Just try giving it a firm, deep push, and do it a few times, and you should start to see just how deep you're having to push it. Once you figure out just how hard and far you have to push the switch down, then you should start seeing that you're not having to hold it, you're just having to push it further than you think you should.

At least that's my guess, but I can't do much more than that without having both impacts in my hands and being able to compare them side by side.

 

[Ign]

^^^^I've always felt Milwaukee screwed the buttons for power settings too, at least on my 2763 and 2654. You have to really mash them to do anything and with gloves on it's nearly impossible.

 

[TK-421]

I hear ya I guess it just seemed a drill bit would work better in a standard drill vs. impact. Either way I'm not after an impact but appreciate all the comments!

If you don't think you'll need the 5.0 batteries, then you can get the kit and a free fan with 2.0 batteries. You'll have to charge them more often, but they way quite a bit less, and I don't think you'll have to charge them too often if they're just for random projects and you're not trying to build a house with them or something of that nature.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-Jobsite-Fan-Tool-Only-2701-22CT-XY/207070021

 

[TK-421]

^^^^I've always felt Milwaukee screwed the buttons for power settings too, at least on my 2763 and 2654. You have to really mash them to do anything and with gloves on it's nearly impossible.

To me, it feels like it'd be a lot better if they made the button press half as long (deep?) as they did. I'll go grab my gloves out of the garage and see how bad it is with gloves on.

Edit: Yup, definitely a pain in the *** to do with gloves. It's possible, but you really have to mean it. The easiest way is to try and use the corner of your thumb instead of the pad of your thumb. The button is recessed deep in there, so you really need a point to dig down there to push it, which is why the corner of your thumb is best, whereas the pad would just sit on top and not dig down like you need to get to the button.

Granted, it means you'll pretty much never accidentally press the button while working, but that's not really something I ever see as being a problem even with an easily accessible button, so I bet it's just a solution looking for a problem that doesn't exist.

 

[asxy_80]

Was at work, sorry. Got the batteries when I got home, plugged them in, and it's hard to say exactly. It's the kind of "6 to one, half a dozen to the other" kind of situation. To me, I'd say it switches instantly between modes. However, you have to push the button down with some oomph, you have to really mean to push the button, and you have to push it down further than I think you should have to. So I could see how some people might say you have to hold it, due to how far down you have to push it, but, to me, I'd consider it an instant change.

Try pushing it down hard and quick, like you're trying to push it into the battery, not just a soft little jab, and see if you still experience the same thing.

If I had to hazard a guess, without actually holding your impact in my hands, I'd bet that you're just having to push it further than you're expecting to, so you think you're having to hold it, and that there's nothing wrong with it. Just try giving it a firm, deep push, and do it a few times, and you should start to see just how deep you're having to push it. Once you figure out just how hard and far you have to push the switch down, then you should start seeing that you're not having to hold it, you're just having to push it further than you think you should.

At least that's my guess, but I can't do much more than that without having both impacts in my hands and being able to compare them side by side.

Thanks for doing that . When i press the button and quickly release it nothing happens but if i press it and just hold it for maybe half a second longer it switches between modes no problem. Can you try pressing it and releasing it like real quick and see if its going to switch between modes or just click.
Sorry for being difficult .
I might go to home Depot and try their display model tomorrow...
It probably wouldn't bother me if i didn't have 3/8 impact and button on that thing works effortlessly no matter how fast i press and release it.

 

[asxy_80]

To me, it feels like it'd be a lot better if they made the button press half as long (deep?) as they did. I'll go grab my gloves out of the garage and see how bad it is with gloves on.

Edit: Yup, definitely a pain in the *** to do with gloves. It's possible, but you really have to mean it. The easiest way is to try and use the corner of your thumb instead of the pad of your thumb. The button is recessed deep in there, so you really need a point to dig down there to push it, which is why the corner of your thumb is best, whereas the pad would just sit on top and not dig down like you need to get to the button.

Granted, it means you'll pretty much never accidentally press the button while working, but that's not really something I ever see as being a problem even with an easily accessible button, so I bet it's just a solution looking for a problem that doesn't exist.

Ok so looks like they designed it to work that way because of such a high torque to prevent breaking or over tightening bolts if you accidentally bump the switch...

 

[TK-421]

Ok so looks like they designed it to work that way because of such a high torque to prevent breaking or over tightening bolts if you accidentally bump the switch...

Yeah, that's my best guess, since there's such a massive power difference between modes 1 and 2. I don't really see it ever being much of an issue anyways, but better safe than sorry I guess.

 

[TK-421]

Thanks for doing that . When i press the button and quickly release it nothing happens but if i press it and just hold it for maybe half a second longer it switches between modes no problem. Can you try pressing it and releasing it like real quick and see if its going to switch between modes or just click.
Sorry for being difficult .
I might go to home Depot and try their display model tomorrow...
It probably wouldn't bother me if i didn't have 3/8 impact and button on that thing works effortlessly no matter how fast i press and release it.

I know what you're doing, let me see if I can explain.

Basically, what you're doing when rapidly pressing it and release it is you're trying to push it down 6" when you really need to push it down 12". However, when you push and hold it, you're pushing it down say 11.5" initially, and then while holding it you finally push it down that last .5". And yes, I made those numbers up, I'm just trying to get the basic idea across and not get bogged down in the exact specifics.

What you need to do is try pushing for depth, and not time. Don't worry about pushing it in and holding it, just push it in as deep as you can and then let go.

If I push it in really quick and let go then yes it will change modes, however that's because I'm trying to push it in the full 12", I'm not short changing it like you are, which is why it works for me but not for you.

Now, I can short change it, and if I do what I'm pretty sure you're doing, then no, it doesn't change modes, but that's because I'm not fully depressing the button. Yes, I do get a click, but that's just a spring click and not a button being pushed click. If you push it down hard, then you'll be able to feel the difference, because you can feel the button itself being pushed, whereas if you short change it then you don't feel the button being depressed and that click you here is merely springs, or whatever it is that's inside there.

If that doesn't make sense then let me know and I'll see if I can try to explain it better.

 

[asxy_80]

Yeah, that's my best guess, since there's such a massive power difference between modes 1 and 2. I don't really see it ever being much of an issue anyways, but better safe than sorry I guess.

Ok good to know that those buttons are not defective,i guess we can go and enjoy our new toys now .
Once again thanks for doing that. And you will love your 3/8 impact

 

[asxy_80]

I know what you're doing, let me see if I can explain.

Basically, what you're doing when rapidly pressing it and release it is you're trying to push it down 6" when you really need to push it down 12". However, when you push and hold it, you're pushing it down say 11.5" initially, and then while holding it you finally push it down that last .5". And yes, I made those numbers up, I'm just trying to get the basic idea across and not get bogged down in the exact specifics.

What you need to do is try pushing for depth, and not time. Don't worry about pushing it in and holding it, just push it in as deep as you can and then let go.

If I push it in really quick and let go then yes it will change modes, however that's because I'm trying to push it in the full 12", I'm not short changing it like you are, which is why it works for me but not for you.

Now, I can short change it, and if I do what I'm pretty sure you're doing, then no, it doesn't change modes, but that's because I'm not fully depressing the button. Yes, I do get a click, but that's just a spring click and not a button being pushed click. If you push it down hard, then you'll be able to feel the difference, because you can feel the button itself being pushed, whereas if you short change it then you don't feel the button being depressed and that click you here is merely springs, or whatever it is that's inside there.

If that doesn't make sense then let me know and I'll see if I can try to explain it better.

Yeah it makes sense.i didn't realize that there was a spring clicking inside. Ill go and try to press it the way you just described.

 

[TK-421]

Yeah it makes sense.i didn't realize that there was a spring clicking inside. Ill go and try to press it the way you just described.

You'll know whether or not you're pressing the button because you'll have a really soft, easy push, and then all of a sudden there will be a **** ton more tension. That tension is the actual button, everything else is just taking up slack. Try and push down a few times and feel how far down you have to push to get to that tension, and remember how far that is. Pushing down any less than pushing to that tension is just taking up slack and isn't doing anything useful. Push down, take up the slack, find the tension of the actual button, and then push the button to change the mode.

It's easy to do once you understand what's going on, at least for me it is.

The reason you don't have to do it like that on the 3/8 impact is because there isn't an 1,100 ft lbs difference between the modes, so you're not as likely to destroy something if you accidentally switch modes in the middle of doing something.

 

[asxy_80]

You are right. I tested it and when i slightly press the button and hold i hear the spring click and doesn't change the mode and when i apply a litle more pressure it switches.so the click is the spring sitting above the actual switching mechanism.

 

[TK-421]

You are right. I tested it and when i slightly press the button and hold i hear the spring click and doesn't change the mode and when i apply a litle more pressure it switches.so the click is the spring sitting above the actual switching mechanism.

It's a really weird way to do it, that's for sure, but whatever. It works so I'm not going to complain about it.

Sure is nice having a shiny new tool to play with though.

 

[asxy_80]

It's a really weird way to do it, that's for sure, but whatever. It works so I'm not going to complain about it.

Sure is nice having a shiny new tool to play with though.

Enjoy it and thanks for helping me with this non issue

 

[Caparris]

Thanks for taking the time to answer. It makes more sense now.

-80/81/82 means refurb, with 0/1/2 batteries also.

 

[TK-421]

-80/81/82 means refurb, with 0/1/2 batteries also.

Didn't realize they'd use different numbers for refurb, learn something new every day, thanks.

 

[TK-421]

Enjoy it and thanks for helping me with this non issue

Not a problem, glad I could be of assistance.

 

[dacan23]

Did everyone win the TShirt in the Fuel promo last go around, mine was in the mail pile from while on vacation. Weird that never noticed anyone posting about the free shirt then all of a sudden bunch of us got them. Wish a giant package of tools showed up instead... Free shirt was kind you find at wallyworld for $5, would of expected better quality...

 

[Malaworkerbee]

Just got my M12 Fuel kit......

I'm in love. my old NiCd hitachi can't hold a candle to it.