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The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)

a52-830

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north of boston, massachusetts
Not sure of the model #, but I have the fuel grinder with the paddle trigger.

so, is the deal with the paddle trigger that it just turns on adn off when you are holding it rather than having to turn on the switch? i dont have extensive experience with a grinder, and the few i have used always had a switch.

is it easier to use with the paddle (like a trigger?) is there a lock to keep it running (like some drills have) or does it stop when you release the paddle?

they are the same price, but it must be a strong preference for them to offer two different models like that.
 
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kctyphoon

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Thanks for all the posts here. I had originally bought a 3/8" square drive 18v Bosch impact. After I bought it and threw away the packaging, I realized these M12 Fuel line could deliver 90% of the Tq and I could get a right angle ratchet with the same battery, I decided to sell the Bosch tool.
While I still had both, I tried the M12 2452 vs the 18v brush-ful Bosch unit on my car's lug nut. Neither could break it from the get go, and my torque wrench indicated that were around 140ft/lb (spec is 90). I then loosened and reset the lug to 130, then 125, then 120.... until one of the impacts could handle it. The Milwaukee unit was able to do it at 90, the Bosch maybe needed a few less. I then let the Milwaukee unit go full tight on the lug, I it looked like I got 125ft/lb on the tighten side (if you believe my wrench).


Question for you... I don't believe I need a square drive impact, hex impact, and drill. For my fathers day list, does it make sense to put a 3/8 to 1/4" hex adapter and (clutched) drill on the list? Is there any reason to buy an unclutched hex driver for a home owner if have a clutched drill and 3/8 impact?

Just FYI, I have 2 (I think) of the 3/8 square to 1/4 hex adapter.. they work, but there is no getting rid of the wobble / play thats created by snapping an adapter onto the square drive.. it gets annoying driving screws in. I bought them to experiment, and honestly don't even use them anymore.. don't get me wrong, it's do-able, but it's much nicer having the dedicated impact driver.
 

Ign

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I hate Milwaukee's paddle on these grinders. It's poorly designed and too touchy. I sold off my paddles and went to slide switches - a million times better.

It's just an Oh **** Haul *** (OSHA) thing - a paddle is a deadman switch. But these grinders are nowhere near as scary as a corded grinder if they get away from you.

I prefer paddles on all my corded grinders but these Fuel paddles & I simply do not get along. I use a grinder of some sort everyday so it matters to me.

I also don't understand the braking feature - these Fuels "ratchet" down WAY faster than any corded grinder - they practically are braking already. No need to pay extra for the braking unless the alphabet soup requires it.
 

kctyphoon

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I hate Milwaukee's paddle on these grinders. It's poorly designed and too touchy. I sold off my paddles and went to slide switches - a million times better.

It's just an Oh **** Haul *** (OSHA) thing - a paddle is a deadman switch. But these grinders are nowhere near as scary as a corded grinder if they get away from you.

I prefer paddles on all my corded grinders but these Fuel paddles & I simply do not get along. I use a grinder of some sort everyday so it matters to me.

I also don't understand the braking feature - these Fuels "ratchet" down WAY faster than any corded grinder - they practically are braking already. No need to pay extra for the braking unless the alphabet soup requires it.

I agree with this.. I'm not a big fan of the paddle switch.. for any prolonged use my hand cramps having to hold it down.. I'd prefer a simple on/off, but I got it on clearance when I bought it, so I'll just live with it.. not like I use it everyday, so in the rare cases I pull it out, it's a minor annoyance.... knowing this now, if I HAD to buy another, I'd go with the switch if it's an option.. the grinder can get held in some awkward positions to reach what you need, the paddle gets cumbersome to keep pressure on it sometimes .. that said - I do like being able to shut it down without pulling my hands off, so I can see the progress.. makes the short 2 second "stop and look" easy, without having the grinder constantly on.. can't have it both ways though..

But to answer the question, yes - you have to keep it held down to run. Releasing pressure shuts it down. There is a second safety switch to be able to engage the paddle. So it's not like if you set it down, it can accidentally turn on. But once it's going, if you release pressure slightly it'll stop without having to engage the second switch to start it again. There is no trigger lock to keep it running either - pressure must be maintained on the paddle at all times..

It's really not THAT bad.. a decent rubber band can cure it all, if its really an issue with prolonged use.. with a 4.0 battery I think you'd get about 20 minutes of light/ moderate use out of it..
 
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Jamie V

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Thanks for all the posts here. I had originally bought a 3/8" square drive 18v Bosch impact. After I bought it and threw away the packaging, I realized these M12 Fuel line could deliver 90% of the Tq and I could get a right angle ratchet with the same battery, I decided to sell the Bosch tool.
While I still had both, I tried the M12 2452 vs the 18v brush-ful Bosch unit on my car's lug nut. Neither could break it from the get go, and my torque wrench indicated that were around 140ft/lb (spec is 90). I then loosened and reset the lug to 130, then 125, then 120.... until one of the impacts could handle it. The Milwaukee unit was able to do it at 90, the Bosch maybe needed a few less. I then let the Milwaukee unit go full tight on the lug, I it looked like I got 125ft/lb on the tighten side (if you believe my wrench).


Question for you... I don't believe I need a square drive impact, hex impact, and drill. For my fathers day list, does it make sense to put a 3/8 to 1/4" hex adapter and (clutched) drill on the list? Is there any reason to buy an unclutched hex driver for a home owner if have a clutched drill and 3/8 impact?



It's a preference type question your asking. Each impact tool has its place and most could be made to work rather then having other impacts.

Me personally I have a m18 fuel 3/8", m18 fuel 1/2" mid torque, m18 fuel 1/2" high torque, m18 fuel 1/4" hex impact, and my only m12 is a fuel 1/4" hex screwdriver for small things.
 

Jamie V

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I hate Milwaukee's paddle on these grinders. It's poorly designed and too touchy. I sold off my paddles and went to slide switches - a million times better.



It's just an Oh **** Haul *** (OSHA) thing - a paddle is a deadman switch. But these grinders are nowhere near as scary as a corded grinder if they get away from you.



I prefer paddles on all my corded grinders but these Fuel paddles & I simply do not get along. I use a grinder of some sort everyday so it matters to me.



I also don't understand the braking feature - these Fuels "ratchet" down WAY faster than any corded grinder - they practically are braking already. No need to pay extra for the braking unless the alphabet soup requires it.





I agree with this.. I'm not a big fan of the paddle switch.. for any prolonged use my hand cramps having to hold it down.. I'd prefer a simple on/off, but I got it on clearance when I bought it, so I'll just live with it.. not like I use it everyday, so in the rare cases I pull it out, it's a minor annoyance.... knowing this now, if I HAD to buy another, I'd go with the switch if it's an option.. the grinder can get held in some awkward positions to reach what you need, the paddle gets cumbersome to keep pressure on it sometimes .. that said - I do like being able to shut it down without pulling my hands off, so I can see the progress.. makes the short 2 second "stop and look" easy, without having the grinder constantly on.. can't have it both ways though..

But to answer the question, yes - you have to keep it held down to run. Releasing pressure shuts it down. There is a second safety switch to be able to engage the paddle. So it's not like if you set it down, it can accidentally turn on. But once it's going, if you release pressure slightly it'll stop without having to engage the second switch to start it again. There is no trigger lock to keep it running either - pressure must be maintained on the paddle at all times..

It's really not THAT bad.. a decent rubber band can cure it all, if its really an issue with prolonged use.. with a 4.0 battery I think you'd get about 20 minutes of light/ moderate use out of it..



I didn't care for my M18 fuel grinder with paddle switch so I sold it and ordered a new one with slide switch also. I think they are great tools but it's one of the few tools they sell that I think isn't on par with a corded one.
 

Voi

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I don't believe I need a square drive impact, hex impact, and drill.

My impact driver is an older and bulkier model and I suspect one advantage of some of these newer drivers is how compact they are. I could see a more compact driver being helpful when starting a 3" plus screw in a tight space.
I never complain about a lack of power in my driver but do occasionally wish it were shorter.

I suspect a M18 impact wrench with adapter would be as long and likely longer than my current impact driver so I don't believe I'd want to rely on one for all of my screw driving needs.

As someone in a similar situation as you, one thing to consider is these newer oil driven impacts like the M18 Surge. I suspect for someone who needs a M18 compact wrench there would be less overlap with the Surge than with the other M18 impact drivers. I don't own one so I don't know.

Maybe others can chime in with their comments.

Personally I'd give up my drill before my impact driver. I have a keyless chuck I occasionally use to drill holes with my driver and I also have corded drills as well as a cordless screw gun with a clutch.

My cordless drill isn't my least used cordless tool but it is my one cordless tool that has its bases covered by other options.
 

brett14

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Dec 21, 2014
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jeez my home depot is really out of date then. first time im seeing it there and im there at least once a week. lmao

i wish it was just a straight chop saw. i have zero room in my van as it is. my m18 hole hawg sits in the passenger seat haha.

it would be great for plumbing. roughing houses with nice quick clean cuts. i guess the m12 fuel sawzall will have to suffice for now.
 

icu2tsx

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FYI for those interested in the miter saw with 2 9.0 batteries. Promo code REFUNDME on acmetools. Today only. No tax and free shipping
7ffdfd69ff3a9ae44b72b5cbf102bd73.jpg
 

white91formula

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Dec 11, 2012
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Boston, MA
Does anyone have/use the M18 caulking gun ? Thoughts on it ? Cant find much for reviews on it.

My house has D shapped log siding and the entire thing needs to be re caulked/sealed. I cant imagine doing this squeezing a traditional caulk gun. House is roughly 2000sqft with the front of the garage and also in log siding.
 
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Badger 13

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Aug 28, 2010
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Northern Idaho
I don't have the M18 caulk gun, but the guy who replaced a broken windshield in our Jeep did. The sealant they use in windshield replacement is much thicker then normal caulk, and this thing was just amazing how it worked. The tech said it made his job so much easier. If I had to caulk as much as you going to do, I sure would check this out if you plan on doing this yourself.

Jim
 

DerekV

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I didn't care for my M18 fuel grinder with paddle switch so I sold it and ordered a new one with slide switch also. I think they are great tools but it's one of the few tools they sell that I think isn't on par with a corded one.

I'm with you here. I reef on my grinders pretty hard at least half the time. I'd be burning through 9.0s quickly...faster than they'd charge. And while the power is impressive, it's still short of good corded grinders.

It might be nice to have one for convenience/small stuff.

Definitely interested in a cordless Fuel die grinder though, but I won't pick one up until they offer it with variable speed. They dropped the ball on that one.
 
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DFB

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Yup the portability is the main reason I bought the original Fuel grinder.

I don't know how many times at the farm I need a portable grinder to cut something free...from rusted bolts on old sign posts or strapping on a greenhouse. even big old nails protruding somewhere. The less cords the better for me especially if I am on a ladder. Even dismantled an old trailer after I pulled it from right where it sat in the brush for years. I hundreds of feet from a power outlet.

If your in or around a garage/workshop and using a grinder extensively corded is probably more the way to go.

I also checked out the new paddle switch wasn't really a fan either.

Still would like to see some cut off tool in a M12 platform
 

bcradio

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I much prefer the paddle switch on a cordless grinder because I am using it for convenience and portability. I won't be using it for extended periods of time as a corded is much better for that. It is super easy to grab and hit the paddle for short bursts vs. trying to mess with a slider switch. Not a huge issue either way though and I'd be happy with either option. I do wish the paddle was a little better designed like my dewalt grinders, but it's not bad.
 

Ign

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I keep a slide switch Fuel w both cutoff wheel and one w flapper. Even in the shop I always need to cut something down or apart, or carry the flapper to a recently completed weldment just to break one last edge I had missed.

For cutting lighter stuff the cordless is much nicer 'cause it doesn't have quite the power to rip from your hands if the wheel binds (and then frags).

I keep a grinding wheel on my V28 grinder which has every bit the balls of the M18 despite being brushed.

But for extensive grinding, heavy cutting or wire cup wheels I use corded
 

DFB

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I much prefer the paddle switch on a cordless grinder because I am using it for convenience and portability. I won't be using it for extended periods of time as a corded is much better for that. It is super easy to grab and hit the paddle for short bursts vs. trying to mess with a slider switch. Not a huge issue either way though and I'd be happy with either option. I do wish the paddle was a little better designed like my dewalt grinders, but it's not bad.


I do want a cordless paddle switch grinder just for those exact reasons you mention and had thought the new braking one would be ideal for my needs
 
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Strouty

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I wish they would offer the M28 grinder in brushless and a 9.0 M28 battery. My 10 year old V28 grinder will knock the snot out of my M18 fuel any day.
 

f575gtc

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I finally used the 3/8th M12 ratchet I was super impressed, the only thing I couldn't remove with it was the 12 mm bolts holding on the a/c compressor on a Subaru motor, those I broke loose with a manual ratchet and used the M12 one to remove the bolts, other bolts all the 10mm, intake bolts, power steering pump etc the M12 was able to break loose.
 

Shaners256

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I finally used the 3/8th M12 ratchet I was super impressed, the only thing I couldn't remove with it was the 12 mm bolts holding on the a/c compressor on a Subaru motor, those I broke loose with a manual ratchet and used the M12 one to remove the bolts, other bolts all the 10mm, intake bolts, power steering pump etc the M12 was able to break loose.

Did you try to break them loose using the M12 3/8" ratchet using the ratcheting mechanism?

Just curious, it seems a lot of people mistakenly think you only have to use the motor and don't try to break them loose manually. It is a manual ratchet until you pull the trigger.
 

f575gtc

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Both, the most of the ones except for the 14mm I just pressed the trigger and it broke them loose, the a/c bolts I started pulling on the ratchet and broke one loose but then I grabbed the metal ratchet so I didn't break the M12, it was flexing a bit.

I didn't encounter any 10mm bolt that the trigger alone on the M12 ratchet didn't break loose. For the transmission bolts I used the M12 3/8 impact and that was able to break all but two loose.
 

Shaners256

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Both, the most of the ones except for the 14mm I just pressed the trigger and it broke them loose, the a/c bolts I started pulling on the ratchet and broke one loose but then I grabbed the metal ratchet so I didn't break the M12, it was flexing a bit.

I didn't encounter any 10mm bolt that the trigger alone on the M12 ratchet didn't break loose. For the transmission bolts I used the M12 3/8 impact and that was able to break all but two loose.

Ah, OK, that definitely makes sense. I need to get one of the M12 ratchets, but I'm only a home gamer as far as car repairs, and I just had my car totalled out. Hoping to upgrade to something that won't require wrenching as much for at least a few years.
 

DerekV

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I wish they would offer the M28 grinder in brushless and a 9.0 M28 battery. My 10 year old V28 grinder will knock the snot out of my M18 fuel any day.

That'd be pretty slick. Make it a 6" too.

BUT since I don't have any M28 tools/batteries/chargers, it'd be a big investment. Other cordless brushless grinders become fair game at that point.

I seriously wonder if Milwaukee has ANY plans with the M28 line...good/bad/otherwise...
 

Chromdome35

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These followed me home today

For the first time I think I'm excited to go weed eat the yard.

IMG_3838-XL.jpg

So I have a pretty decent sized yard with over 400 feet of privacy fence I have to trim.

I just finished trimming, edging and blowing away the clippings. Took me a little less than an hour start to finish. I still had 2 bars on the 9.0 battery when I was done.

I used the trimmer on the high-speed setting.

The trimmer had plenty of power to do anything around a normal yard. The blower worked like a champ.
 
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Strouty

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That'd be pretty slick. Make it a 6" too.



BUT since I don't have any M28 tools/batteries/chargers, it'd be a big investment. Other cordless brushless grinders become fair game at that point.



I seriously wonder if Milwaukee has ANY plans with the M28 line...good/bad/otherwise...



They have made a new brushless sds hammer drill, but nothing major yet. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
 

DFB

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Well got a chance to use the 2742 16ga. 20* angle finish nailer. The gun arrived last week but took me a little longer to get a hold of some nails. And since I wasn't in any hurry I put in an order to Amazon for a few things and threw on some 2" Hitachi brand nails. It all came in this afternoon.

So right off the bat I am quite glad I finally bought the kit on special, it is going to be indispensable for me on my job and not having to lug the compressor and hoses around for some work never mind screwing with an extension cord or pop a panel breaker or the kick out the relay on my pancake unit.

Overall I couldn't turn down almost $150 off and IMO that is the price it should be...that was very competitive and like only $50 over Ryobi 16 ga kit and as much I have wanted one I could not see paying list price. The 34* 15ga nailer was also discounted for the same price. But alas it all seems back to reg retail best I know


Now it slams home nails like it should so it performs just fine although I will readily admit its not a totally perfect tool and some things could be improved on although who knows when that might happen. I'm not one willing to wait around hoping and wishing or using that as an excuse and if that time comes I can always upgrade but in the meantime I have what's available to me on this platform. And it's a solid and very well built tool.

I wasn't into buying the Ryobi and even though its seems very qualified in reviews I don't know if I could really get past that delayed windup and punch action like with the Ridgid gun. The Milwaukee is more like using air in that respect.

So the tool weight concerned me at first but it became second nature in use quick. Still maybe it will bother some others but if your used to swinging a hammer should be no big deal. I mentioned once before it weighs only 1 lb less than that beast of an impact wrench the 2763 though the balance is very good and totally different than the wrench not all concentrated in a short design.

All that talk about recoil is quite real though, and the firmer you can hold the tool (like with one hand over the top of the piston head for example) the deeper the fastener gets sunk with the same setting. Running thru some with it I can see where user error plays a big part and how a lot of reviews are somewhat flawed. You really need too fasten your piece against a solid backer like wall stud framing. You can play around shooting nails into wood laid down against the concrete garage floor or on a table top but you will get bounce back whether your realizing it or not and will not set fasteners correctly, recoil vibration is strong.


So I mentioned I bought some Hitachi branded fasteners just because they were the cheapest and I really don't like them much compared to what I have for my straight guns. I have Senco, Paslode, Dewalt and Grip Right and the Dewalt brand fasteners are by far my favorites. I got more metal slivers in my fingers while checking countersink depth with those Hitachis today than any other brand I ever used.

If anybody wants to pass on other any brand recommendations on I am always all ears.


And I actually am a bit surprised Milwaukee didn't jump on branding their own and would have been nice if they tossed in a few hundred sample fasteners with the tool.
 

DonkeyFluffer

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Dec 17, 2016
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Since February I've acquired the addiction bad. Not included in this pic are my two Hoodies, the M12 Rover, the 4 M18 batteries, the 8 M12 batteries, chargers, cases, etc. Pretty much can't think of anything else I really want. Maybe the caulk and the grease guns.
ed8948c1f939144906ca4211aac64ae1.jpg


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DonkeyFluffer

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Dec 17, 2016
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For anybody wondering about the size difference in M12 and M18

1st pic are the 3 impact wrenches M18 1/2" 2763, 3/8 "2754, and M12 1/4" 2452. I do not own the mid torque 1/2" and currently don't see a reason to.

2nd pic is M18 2704 and the M12 2404 hammer drills. Kind of close in size actually.

3rd pic is the M18 2753 and the M12 2453 impact drivers. The M12 might actually be bigger but it does angle up for tight quarters.
d7fe025c64e3c157f13fd998f5076be0.jpge478c373274a10598c6283a5aa3ebe71.jpg7c53aeda40456598e01232ee8942ce53.jpg

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Firebrick43

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View media item 70072
What are these? The small one looks like a saw of some sort


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The drywall cut out tool and the drywall gun with collated attachment.

Whoa. The collated is out.
I was just checking availibility like 2 weeks ago and no sites had them
Just came out. Tool up has them on their site but I can't stand their poor service so I called acme tools. They have them in stock but not online yet.

Has anyone used this M12 based TIG tungsten sharpening tool?

https://www.arc-zone.com/Cordless-Sharpie-Grinder

The tool with battery/charger/case/accessories is $100, so this thing is really expensive at $325-$375 and I'm wondering if it's worth it.

I really can't see it being worth that. I have never used one but it looked terrible. I just chuck it in a small 3/8 cordless drill and turn it against a grinder. Do a case at a time and then you can weld forever before touching them all up again. Why would you cut off a contaminated end? The knock off in half a second with any heavy object in hand and the edge of the bench.
 

nw3dogs

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Oct 12, 2014
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Location
Grand Island NY
This is where I got mine from. Not looking like it will be in stock anytime soon. Forgot to quote the coolated post

http://wholesalepowertools.com/milw...ed-magazine-for-drywall-screwgun#.WPiO6Wc2zIW

On a second point. I have the Fuel Sawzall and 1' SDS max rotary drill and they both died on me this week. Took them to the factory authorized repair center. The guy there said bad electronics in the both. The Sawzall if you pulled the trigger the led light on the front would flash 3 times fast and do nothing else. The SDS would do nothing when you pulled the trigger. If you reset the battery it would run for 5 seconds approximately. Anyone else have similar experiences.
 
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