Bighead38
Well-known member
No, just use them.
The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
- Thread starter JustinsGr8
- Start date
lsutigers937
Member
If I was sitting down making a copy of a label to make 1000's of couterfiet products, I like to think I could get it right. It's only like 20 characters. I could take a day and study it enough
DFB
Well-known member
I torque my evo lugs to 83 Ft/lbs, so I think I should be fine.
I was planning on eventually getting a Mid-torque, but not in the near future. I actually haven't been doing too much to my car lately, but I was hoping the stubby would be able to at least handle rusted exhaust bolts. I live in New York so things can get a little hairy.
The High-torque seemed way too powerful for my needs, but now people seem to be acting like the mid-torque is not much better than the stubby...
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The Milwaukee addiction thread! [emoji4]
The mid torque is much better then the stubby, I have 5 different impacts and there are pros and cons to each. The M18 mid torque (1/2” drive) is my go to 1/2” drive impact and my M12 stubby is my go to 3/8” drive. Night and day difference in power levels.
I’ve actually considered getting rid of my High Torque 1/2” drive impact for a High Torque 3/4” drive one. I usually only use the high torque on really big stuff like hitch balls and stuff like that and I end up using the 1/2” to 3/4” adapter most of the time anyway.
The mid torque is much better then the stubby, I have 5 different impacts and there are pros and cons to each. The M18 mid torque (1/2” drive) is my go to 1/2” drive impact and my M12 stubby is my go to 3/8” drive. Night and day difference in power levels.
I’ve actually considered getting rid of my High Torque 1/2” drive impact for a High Torque 3/4” drive one. I usually only use the high torque on really big stuff like hitch balls and stuff like that and I end up using the 1/2” to 3/4” adapter most of the time anyway.
Attachments
Re: The Milwaukee addiction thread! [emoji4]
Way back when the MT came out I thought it would be my go to gun also, as everyone mostly knows I pretty much have every M12 & M18 impact. I do almost all my own car work, less recently now that 3/5 are under warranty, but I do about 10 wheel set swaps a year. I thought the MT would get most of the use, but my go to setup now is the 1/2 2767 HT (actually have the OK version 2863) and 1/2 M12 Stubby. Since occasionally the dealer touches a wheel I got caught a few times with them over tightening the lugs and had to grab the HT when I was using the MT. So now I said screw it, HT to remove and the stubby to put back on.
I have both 1/2 & 3/8 MT and I feel like its a waste. My M18 Fuel 3/8 one key 2758 also gets no use now that I have all the stubbies. The M12 Fuel 3/8 2454 lives upstairs in the house now, its been demoted from a garage tool LOL
I also love the M12 stubbies for driving big lag bolts.
Way back when the MT came out I thought it would be my go to gun also, as everyone mostly knows I pretty much have every M12 & M18 impact. I do almost all my own car work, less recently now that 3/5 are under warranty, but I do about 10 wheel set swaps a year. I thought the MT would get most of the use, but my go to setup now is the 1/2 2767 HT (actually have the OK version 2863) and 1/2 M12 Stubby. Since occasionally the dealer touches a wheel I got caught a few times with them over tightening the lugs and had to grab the HT when I was using the MT. So now I said screw it, HT to remove and the stubby to put back on.
I have both 1/2 & 3/8 MT and I feel like its a waste. My M18 Fuel 3/8 one key 2758 also gets no use now that I have all the stubbies. The M12 Fuel 3/8 2454 lives upstairs in the house now, its been demoted from a garage tool LOL
I also love the M12 stubbies for driving big lag bolts.
The mid torque is much better then the stubby, I have 5 different impacts and there are pros and cons to each. The M18 mid torque (1/2” drive) is my go to 1/2” drive impact and my M12 stubby is my go to 3/8” drive. Night and day difference in power levels.
I’ve actually considered getting rid of my High Torque 1/2” drive impact for a High Torque 3/4” drive one. I usually only use the high torque on really big stuff like hitch balls and stuff like that and I end up using the 1/2” to 3/4” adapter most of the time anyway.
I do all my own car work also (99 BMW, 2008 BMW, 2008 BMW that are well out of warranty) and have all the impacts as well except 1/4 though I have hex drive that I used to use with socket adapters years ago. I reach for the 3/8 stubby the most, graduate to the mid torque if needed and rarely use the high torque but it’s nice to have if you need it. If I could have only 2 of the 5, they would be the 3/8 stubby and the high torque. That would give me the broadest range.
Someone else might be working on heavier machinery and prefer the mid torque and high torque. Another person might work on small equipment or motorcycles and have no need for the high torque but might want the 1/4 stubby and the mid torque.
Someone else might be working on heavier machinery and prefer the mid torque and high torque. Another person might work on small equipment or motorcycles and have no need for the high torque but might want the 1/4 stubby and the mid torque.
I also have a BMW problem, use to only have 1 typically under warranty, but since I replaced one this summer now 3 are under warranty and 2 of them I have zero interest in doing anything to except swapping on snow wheels.
The good rare ones - 1995 540 6spd, 2008 M5 6spd, 2016 M4 Convertible 6spd
The replaced every 2 to 3 years so who cares - 2017 X5 diesel, 2019 i3 Rex
The good rare ones - 1995 540 6spd, 2008 M5 6spd, 2016 M4 Convertible 6spd
The replaced every 2 to 3 years so who cares - 2017 X5 diesel, 2019 i3 Rex
Bolster
Well-known member
Does anyone know WHY some Milwa LiIon batteries have 3 year warranty, some have 2 year, and some have 1 year?
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Support/Registration-and-Warranty
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Support/Registration-and-Warranty
2 of those are classics; the M4 is quick and more modern. I have a turbo 99M3, modded N/A 08M3 and an 08 535xi wagon. Probably adding a CPO X5 or maybe certified Cayenne or similar 2017-2018 SUV next year.
Shaners256
Well-known member
It looks like the 1 year are all very old batteries that are all obsolete, i.e. v18, v28, etc.
2 year are all the compact batteries. I'm not sure why, but it's probably due to redundancy in battery cells. If one cell gets a little weak, then there is only one row of cells to keep voltage up in the compact batteries and performance will be diminished greatly. With XC or HD batteries with 2 and 3 rows of cells, respectively, if one cell gets weak, then there is an entire extra row or two of cells to help out.
Also, because there is only one row of cells in the compact batteries, each cell will be worked harder than if there are extra rows of cells in parallel to help out with power.
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Shaners256
Well-known member
April is pretty new, and I don't think you'd easily be able to find a newer battery.
DFB
Well-known member
You guys are funny using two different wrenches to change and remount tires 
Makes no sense whatsoever
That's the whole purpose of Mid Torque for most applications it WILL get the lugs off...no guessing at IF a stubby WILL do it
And you don't want to overtorque them tight...
Omg it does have power 3 modes
Its what I carry at my job these days for tire changes
Now some other system of tools may work for one guy in his own garage and stubbies may take off 80lb torqued lugs easy enough but most likely either scenario simply wont be suitable to more universal real work applications
Makes no sense whatsoever
That's the whole purpose of Mid Torque for most applications it WILL get the lugs off...no guessing at IF a stubby WILL do it
And you don't want to overtorque them tight...
Omg it does have power 3 modes
Its what I carry at my job these days for tire changes
Now some other system of tools may work for one guy in his own garage and stubbies may take off 80lb torqued lugs easy enough but most likely either scenario simply wont be suitable to more universal real work applications
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Re: The Milwaukee addiction thread! [emoji4]
Some of the reviews of the Stubbys I've seen state that the 3/8" anvil is less-powerful than the 1/2" (I know the specs are the same, but the 1/2" anvil is more effective at transmitting the power was the suggestion)The mid torque is much better then the stubby, I have 5 different impacts and there are pros and cons to each. The M18 mid torque (1/2” drive) is my go to 1/2” drive impact and my M12 stubby is my go to 3/8” drive. Night and day difference in power levels.
I’ve actually considered getting rid of my High Torque 1/2” drive impact for a High Torque 3/4” drive one. I usually only use the high torque on really big stuff like hitch balls and stuff like that and I end up using the 1/2” to 3/4” adapter most of the time anyway.
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danny_barkley
Well-known member
I wouldn't give it a thought. Lithium is awesome for it's shelf life. I have been using them a LONG time in Flashlights and tools. You will not use the warranty unless you get some early type of failure.
DFB
Well-known member
Ok here a question for you Lube Techs that have a Milwacky grease gun and specifically the M12.
I have one AND I like it A LOT.
Outside of the plunger spring being extremely strong as it take a pretty good effort to draw it back as opposed to any hand operated grease gun and I have used mine often but has been easy enough to load and prime and change grease tubes at random.
So I gave one today to my pal who owns the motorcycle shop where I spend a lot of my spare time at (as a Holiday gift) one the M12 grease specials the one with a free 2.0 starter kit and yup at almost 70 years young he was like any kid at Christmas when he seen it
But he grabs a tube of some seriously funky green waterproof trailer wheel bearing grease and the first thing that we discover is that..it wont fit the metal tube and we actually had to grind the metal ring on the end just ever so...so that it slide in
Then he was concerned the rubber end wouldn't fit the tube
So now he's like is there something wrong with this
This must have been one funky grease tube I don't recall the brand (it was more like plastic than a paper tube)
Finally everything went together after taking all back apart like 3 times and while grease starting to get on everything
Ayyiyi!
I remember when mine was new and I primed it for the first time it went so easy I was quite impressed though I had read of others having difficulties.
I usually get my grease tubes mostly at the TSC or even from a place like WallyWorld sometime, but his stuff all comes thru commercial wholesale suppliers.
So then NEXT this same tube of grease wouldn't prime...he's running the trigger so long I laughed I said you'll wear the battery out first
Anyhow he had an errand to run, meet his GF for few when she got out her work. So me another ol' graybeard biker stayed in shop. I said let me see this thing as I have no troubles with mine...the other guy worked the plunger back and forth a few times while I depressed the trigger just a bit
Man did grease come flying out THEN.
I cleaned the gun up like new after that weird loading fiasco
My pal come back from his run. we smiled told him all was fine. He tried it out on a couple of grease fittings on a bike already up on the table lift. He was elated
One happy camper
I know a bunch of folks recently bought them when they were on special over the past month.
So anyone else ever experience any problems. Priming loading grease cartridges?
Maybe to also share
Just thought I put it out here on the Milwaukee page first before making a General Tool discussion post about it
I have one AND I like it A LOT.
Outside of the plunger spring being extremely strong as it take a pretty good effort to draw it back as opposed to any hand operated grease gun and I have used mine often but has been easy enough to load and prime and change grease tubes at random.
So I gave one today to my pal who owns the motorcycle shop where I spend a lot of my spare time at (as a Holiday gift) one the M12 grease specials the one with a free 2.0 starter kit and yup at almost 70 years young he was like any kid at Christmas when he seen it
But he grabs a tube of some seriously funky green waterproof trailer wheel bearing grease and the first thing that we discover is that..it wont fit the metal tube and we actually had to grind the metal ring on the end just ever so...so that it slide in
Then he was concerned the rubber end wouldn't fit the tube
So now he's like is there something wrong with this
This must have been one funky grease tube I don't recall the brand (it was more like plastic than a paper tube)
Finally everything went together after taking all back apart like 3 times and while grease starting to get on everything
Ayyiyi!
I remember when mine was new and I primed it for the first time it went so easy I was quite impressed though I had read of others having difficulties.
I usually get my grease tubes mostly at the TSC or even from a place like WallyWorld sometime, but his stuff all comes thru commercial wholesale suppliers.
So then NEXT this same tube of grease wouldn't prime...he's running the trigger so long I laughed I said you'll wear the battery out first
Anyhow he had an errand to run, meet his GF for few when she got out her work. So me another ol' graybeard biker stayed in shop. I said let me see this thing as I have no troubles with mine...the other guy worked the plunger back and forth a few times while I depressed the trigger just a bit
Man did grease come flying out THEN.
I cleaned the gun up like new after that weird loading fiasco
My pal come back from his run. we smiled told him all was fine. He tried it out on a couple of grease fittings on a bike already up on the table lift. He was elated
One happy camper
I know a bunch of folks recently bought them when they were on special over the past month.
So anyone else ever experience any problems. Priming loading grease cartridges?
Maybe to also share
Just thought I put it out here on the Milwaukee page first before making a General Tool discussion post about it
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DFB
Well-known member
Gift-card from the boss yielded this
Hoping it ships/arrives sooner than later since the holiday break is going to see me up to my elbows in cars...
Dude totally sweet
danny_barkley
Well-known member
Counterfeiters miss a lot of stuff. I couldn't copy Asian characters, something I would miss would be obvious to a native speaker/reader. I do reviews of Knife counterfeiters. Like Spyderco, Hinderer, Chris Reeve, etc. They miss a lot on Lettering, they just can't see something obvious to us. They also can be pretty slip shod as well. They get away with it...
FFS, they counterfeit everything. Transistors, capacitors, resistors, everything.
danny_barkley
Well-known member
RE the Impact wrenches.
I just switched from Yellow to RED.
I bought the stubby, the Mid TQ, and the Hi TQ.
Chucked up some nuts and bolts in a vise and played with them.
The Bolts were maybe 14mm or so, maybe 5/8", not sure. Pretty good size. I wanted something big enough to fool around with.
I could tighten down the bolts with the mid TQ and could not get them off with the stubby. Mid TQ would knock them loose. That's just a fact. My stuff is brand new. I thought all 3 were awesome for what they are. Reason I bought the mid as well, is that I can see somewhere where I need more TQ on something and am a bit constricted on room, the Hi TQ is bigger, mid TQ may fill the bill. I would prefer to hang with the Stubby and the mid and break out the High when needed.
Then I got distracted with using the Hi TQ to just snap things off. Not sure why that was so much fun, but it was...
I just switched from Yellow to RED.
I bought the stubby, the Mid TQ, and the Hi TQ.
Chucked up some nuts and bolts in a vise and played with them.
The Bolts were maybe 14mm or so, maybe 5/8", not sure. Pretty good size. I wanted something big enough to fool around with.
I could tighten down the bolts with the mid TQ and could not get them off with the stubby. Mid TQ would knock them loose. That's just a fact. My stuff is brand new. I thought all 3 were awesome for what they are. Reason I bought the mid as well, is that I can see somewhere where I need more TQ on something and am a bit constricted on room, the Hi TQ is bigger, mid TQ may fill the bill. I would prefer to hang with the Stubby and the mid and break out the High when needed.
Then I got distracted with using the Hi TQ to just snap things off. Not sure why that was so much fun, but it was...
DFB
Well-known member
Re: The Milwaukee addiction thread! [emoji4]
I'm a firm believer in that...the xtra combined mass of both the socket and anvil plays a role no doubt.
I'm a firm believer in that...the xtra combined mass of both the socket and anvil plays a role no doubt.
Bolster
Well-known member
Thanks for the explanation, Shaners.
DFB
Well-known member
Ok for many of you this probably wont mean too much but if anyone has recently bought the 21 pc Hole Dozer Bi Metal hole saw kit that's on special at HD for like $70 or maybe one of the other sets there are a few things to be aware of especially if you not familiar with the kit. Just ask how I found out
So on the larger manderel...the one with the two locking pins one may not quickly understand how it works (as the kit comes with no instructions)
And notably it is a bit different than like the Blu Mol set I have with a similar looking 2 pin cuplock arbor
There is a small 1/8 set screw that many people have removed expecting to separate the two pieces for assembly on the saw cup.
Don't do that.
Many have and have lost the parts.
The set screw holds a small spring and ball bearing and all you need to do is forcibly slide the larger outer body back and forth in the drill shank. It's really not actually intuitive to do that especially seeing the set screw. *Note though there is NO 1/8" allen wrench included in the kit for THAT screw either.
Read these reviews at Milwaukee site about the problems many people had experienced thru the lack of any included instructions and familiarity with the assembly of other brands of hole saw/mandrel combinations
I put a dab of superglue on the set screw just in case as one person said they had lost theirs during usage
also gave the assembly a shot of lube so it slides easier
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Accessories/Hole-Saws/Hole-Saw-Accessories/49-56-7250
So on the larger manderel...the one with the two locking pins one may not quickly understand how it works (as the kit comes with no instructions)
And notably it is a bit different than like the Blu Mol set I have with a similar looking 2 pin cuplock arbor
There is a small 1/8 set screw that many people have removed expecting to separate the two pieces for assembly on the saw cup.
Don't do that.
Many have and have lost the parts.
The set screw holds a small spring and ball bearing and all you need to do is forcibly slide the larger outer body back and forth in the drill shank. It's really not actually intuitive to do that especially seeing the set screw. *Note though there is NO 1/8" allen wrench included in the kit for THAT screw either.
Read these reviews at Milwaukee site about the problems many people had experienced thru the lack of any included instructions and familiarity with the assembly of other brands of hole saw/mandrel combinations
I put a dab of superglue on the set screw just in case as one person said they had lost theirs during usage
also gave the assembly a shot of lube so it slides easier
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Accessories/Hole-Saws/Hole-Saw-Accessories/49-56-7250
thank you, I guarantee I would have screwed that upOk for many of you this probably wont mean too much but if anyone has recently bought the 21 pc Hole Dozer Bi Metal hole saw kit that's on special at HD for like $70 or maybe one of the other sets there are a few things to be aware of especially if you not familiar with the kit. Just ask how I found out
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Accessories/Hole-Saws/Hole-Saw-Accessories/49-56-7250
Black300zx
Well-known member
Has anyone had any issues flying with the M12 Power Source? My cheapo amazon USB power brick that i usually fly with gave up the ghost. All regulations I've read say that li-ion batteries are OK in carry-on, but I'd really hate to have my Power Source and a CP2.0 battery flagged and chucked.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Batteries-and-Chargers/M12-Batteries-and-Chargers/48-59-1201
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Batteries-and-Chargers/M12-Batteries-and-Chargers/48-59-1201
rick carpenter
Well-known member
The No Wobble arbor...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...bble-W-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-9100/203113673
is the best for the larger hole saws, hands down. I have Lenox hole saws and use this with them.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...bble-W-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-9100/203113673
is the best for the larger hole saws, hands down. I have Lenox hole saws and use this with them.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I use that power adapter for a medical device and I use a 6.0 battery with it. A 2.0 battery as backup. Everything is assembled in a lunch bag for inspection. Been on two flights with it... so four trips thru security.
They disliked my homemade wire connector. It was better the second time using oem wires connected together.
No matter what you do... it looks like a bomb...
Having the parts separated then assembled in flight for a medical device would probably be BAD if someone watched...
If your intentions are to bring it on a carryon... you are at the whim of security... mine is a medical device and documented as such.
you'll be fine, the xray guys see thousands of 18650 batteries every day, it'll be just another power source. I've flown with 18V batteries and the ryobi inverter. just don't try to carry on actual tools with moving parts, those aren't ok
If I’m not mistaken it’s surprisingly forbidden to place li-ion batteries in a checked bag and you can only place it in a carry on. Can’t guarantee but one time I had a 3.0 m12 battery missing in my bag. Searched through my house and couldn’t find it. The next time I flew the lady at the counter asked if I had any batteries with me (random, I know). Then she told me the tsa regulations. Hope she is right bc I’m bringing 4 m12 batteries with me next week
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
I gave my brother a M12 1.5 battery and a M18 5.0 battery a couple weeks ago. He flew with them in his carry on, no issues. Here are the rules:
https://www.faa.gov/hazmat/packsafe/more_info/?hazmat=7
https://www.faa.gov/hazmat/packsafe/more_info/?hazmat=7
Black300zx
Well-known member
Yup, I'm aware of the ban on checking Li-Ion batteries and the need to carry them on. My concern was 1) the fact that it doesn't look like most power sources and 2) the fact that if TSA did have an issue with it, we're talking about $100 out the door
Thanks for the feedback.
j30a4rider
New member
hello i received an early 
gift from my sister, a 2853 m18 impact driver. bless her heart she got me the bare tool and no battery however i was wondering if the m12 surge impact would be a better option because i already have the m12 batteries (own the 3/8 stubby and ratchet).
i eventually will want to own an m18 mid/high torque.
gift from my sister, a 2853 m18 impact driver. bless her heart she got me the bare tool and no battery however i was wondering if the m12 surge impact would be a better option because i already have the m12 batteries (own the 3/8 stubby and ratchet).i eventually will want to own an m18 mid/high torque.
dylanmitchell
Well-known member
Take a USPS Priority Mail box or envelope with a pre-printed label. You can create a free USPS account if you don't have one and print labels. If you don't use the label you can go back after the flight and get a refund. Works better than the stamps that are void if you try to reuse on a different package.
Bighead38
Well-known member
Does it function properly?
I haven't tried it yet as the battery is charging. Have you ever tried shaking your impact driver? or do only insane people like me try this?
Also, small world, I also live in Rockland
Bighead38
Well-known member
I haven't tried it yet as the battery is charging. Have you ever tried shaking your impact driver? or do only insane people like me try this?
Also, small world, I also live in Rockland
Lol no I’ve never shaken new tools when I got them. Where in Rockland? Send me a pm if you don’t want to post it.
Yeah I'm kind of insane. I started out as a quality engineer and now work as a software engineer...
New City btw.