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Ign

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Bought a pair of the Milwaukee clear eyes today at HD. Tried 'em on, too tight around the temples for my wide head.

At $10, walked right back in and returned
 

Ign

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I've got another M12 3.0CP flashing green/red after being depleted in heated gear. Per my notes on the battery, I already warrantied this one 3/19.

I had had a couple other 3.0 CP's fail around that time, too.

What was interesting is that I have two Rapid Chargers in the house. For a while, one would flash green red and refuse to charge while the other would still charge it. Now both chargers refuse to charge it.

It would seem chargers have different thresholds for low voltage depletion, even if it's maybe .1 volt?....and if different batts cut off at maybe a .1V variation it compounds to an error situation?

Just a theory...
 

techieman33

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I've got another M12 3.0CP flashing green/red after being depleted in heated gear. Per my notes on the battery, I already warrantied this one 3/19.

I had had a couple other 3.0 CP's fail around that time, too.

What was interesting is that I have two Rapid Chargers in the house. For a while, one would flash green red and refuse to charge while the other would still charge it. Now both chargers refuse to charge it.

It would seem chargers have different thresholds for low voltage depletion, even if it's maybe .1 volt?....and if different batts cut off at maybe a .1V variation it compounds to an error situation?

Just a theory...

Something that's worked for me is to put it on the charger multiple times. Put it on till it starts flashing, take it off, then put it back on. Usually after 3-4 times it'll start charging it normally.
 

Bigedge

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Still working on improving my modest collection

Nvm. Noobs can't post pics
 
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DFB

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Hey guys, sorry for the newb question, but I just got my first impact driver and I'm wondering if this noise is normal when shaking the tool? I'm assuming the noise is coming from whatever is used to create the "impact".


Ohh nooo it's brokealready :spit:

Wow that is pretty loud but all my impacts make a slight rattle though have to say none of them sound exactly like that :D then again I also don't have that specific M12 Fuel model either.

I don't think anything wrong but like the other response use it to see how it works...

Here is the parts diagram its most likely one of captive steel ball bearings rattling is my guess or possibly free play movement in the rotor assembly shaft :dunno:

https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-26-2483.pdf
 

DFB

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I've got another M12 3.0CP flashing green/red after being depleted in heated gear. Per my notes on the battery, I already warrantied this one 3/19.

I had had a couple other 3.0 CP's fail around that time, too.

What was interesting is that I have two Rapid Chargers in the house. For a while, one would flash green red and refuse to charge while the other would still charge it. Now both chargers refuse to charge it.

It would seem chargers have different thresholds for low voltage depletion, even if it's maybe .1 volt?....and if different batts cut off at maybe a .1V variation it compounds to an error situation?

Just a theory...

Have you tried to jump start it? Be simpler to try than warranting them out. That's what I did first I had to jumper two different M18 compact batteries about 2 weeks ago, I found them dead dead in a tool bag and no charger I tried would recognize them. I made a post about it here I will try to locate it.

Probably would have to tape the wire jumper leads down to the contacts on a M12 they a bit different than the M18 with the slots but should work easy enough I would think. + to + and - to - about 15 min wired to a good battery should be enough juice to get the charger to start up :beer:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8222674&highlight=jump+start#post8222674
 
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BroncoAZ

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Take a USPS Priority Mail box or envelope with a pre-printed label. You can create a free USPS account if you don't have one and print labels. If you don't use the label you can go back after the flight and get a refund. Works better than the stamps that are void if you try to reuse on a different package.

Priority mail is air, lithium batteries can’t ship by air. You could do the same thing with a first class package though.
 

darkzero

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Priority mail is air, lithium batteries can’t ship by air. You could do the same thing with a first class package though.

That's not what I remember, not for domestic anyway. You can ship batteries by air mail, I've had plenty of batteries shipped Priority Mail. First Class mail has a weight limit of 13 oz.

I forget the exact numbers but each package could not contain more than a certain amount of cells, could not exceed a certain amount of Wh, & limited to a certain amount of packs.

There was talk about the M18 12.0 batteries when they came out, those exceeded the limitations & could not be shipped by air.

Edit: Looks like there's a weight limit too. https://pe.usps.com/text/pub52/pub52apxc_032.htm
 
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kctyphoon

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Anyone tried or tested any the newer 3.0 (some even claiming 3.5) compact aftermarket m12 batteries. Its about time I start using the heat on my jacket, and I’m NOT spending $100 on 2 genuine m12s when I can get 4 aftermarkets for half that.

I wanna get at least two new ones and dedicate them for the jacket.

I’m itching to buy them, so I dunno how long I can hold off for an answer... I’m trying here...
 

On-Wheel

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Only if a lot of them were sold and high ratings.The big seller of knock-off dewalts batteries is who I’d look for.
 

techieman33

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Anyone tried or tested any the newer 3.0 (some even claiming 3.5) compact aftermarket m12 batteries. Its about time I start using the heat on my jacket, and I’m NOT spending $100 on 2 genuine m12s when I can get 4 aftermarkets for half that.

I wanna get at least two new ones and dedicate them for the jacket.

I’m itching to buy them, so I dunno how long I can hold off for an answer... I’m trying here...

Should have bought some of the 3.0's when they 2 packs were on sale for $70 earlier in the year.

As far as the aftermarket batteries go. 3.5's are possible to make with legit cells. They don't provide enough power for higher demand tools, but depending on which cell was used it would probably be fine for something like a heated jacket. They do make me nervous though. There are a lot of of knockoff 18650's out there. They might look ok on the outside. But on the inside they are really junk batteries with legit looking wrappers on them. Maybe you get a good pack, maybe they're overrating the capacity of good cells, or maybe you get something with bad cells, or a poorly manufactured pack that will short out and cause the batteries to vent or even potentially explode. If we were talking about a handheld tool, or especially something like a light then I might be willing to blindly take that chance. But for something that's held right next to my body and potentially buried under multiple layers of clothes I'm not so willing. If those cells vent you could be badly burned by the heat produced. By the time you realized there was a problem and started to peel off layers it would be way to late. If they ignite it would be like have a torch turned on in the battery pouch for a couple of seconds. It's not something I want to experience myself.
And just because someone has had luck with a "manufacturer" before doesn't mean something else with that label with be ok. They may get decent cells one day, and bad ones the next, they're buying what they can get cheaply, and there is very little quality testing going on. And people will even make knockoffs of the knockoff brands. It's always going to be a crapshoot on what you actually get. The only way to be sure it to take the pack apart and test the individual cells to try and figure out what they are for sure. That's not something most of us are setup to do easily, if at all. So while I hate paying the ridiculous markup on batteries at times, I also look at it as buying insurance that why I'm buying probably won't try to burn me or my house down.
 

Ign

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Something that's worked for me is to put it on the charger multiple times. Put it on till it starts flashing, take it off, then put it back on. Usually after 3-4 times it'll start charging it normally.

Yeah but it's kind of a hassle, esp since the charger usually requires 1-5 minutes before it starts flashing error. I want to be able to throw it on the charger and walk away, as it should be
 

ChrisLS8

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I agree 100%. That's exactly the reason why I went with only two impacts: the 2555 stubby and the 2767 high torque. I've only needed to break out the high torque once, and even that gun had to hammer on the fastener for a bit, so it would have definitely been out of the range of the mid-torque. It's funny reading comments about how "big" the 2767 is... Only a few years ago a guns that were half as powerful as this one were as big or bigger!
If you work on your own cars and know every nut and bolt then that is the beauty. I moved out of flat rate and I to another field so that left me to figure out what I needed. With the exception of possibly a friend's Honda crank bolt the M12 stubby will do literally EVERYTHING on the cars I own which are all well maintained CA cars so never dealing with rust and whatnot.

If I lived in the rust belt you better believe I'd own a 2767
 

MikeF2316

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Should have bought some of the 3.0's when they 2 packs were on sale for $70 earlier in the year.

As far as the aftermarket batteries go. 3.5's are possible to make with legit cells. They don't provide enough power for higher demand tools, but depending on which cell was used it would probably be fine for something like a heated jacket. They do make me nervous though. There are a lot of of knockoff 18650's out there. They might look ok on the outside. But on the inside they are really junk batteries with legit looking wrappers on them. Maybe you get a good pack, maybe they're overrating the capacity of good cells, or maybe you get something with bad cells, or a poorly manufactured pack that will short out and cause the batteries to vent or even potentially explode. If we were talking about a handheld tool, or especially something like a light then I might be willing to blindly take that chance. But for something that's held right next to my body and potentially buried under multiple layers of clothes I'm not so willing. If those cells vent you could be badly burned by the heat produced. By the time you realized there was a problem and started to peel off layers it would be way to late. If they ignite it would be like have a torch turned on in the battery pouch for a couple of seconds. It's not something I want to experience myself.
And just because someone has had luck with a "manufacturer" before doesn't mean something else with that label with be ok. They may get decent cells one day, and bad ones the next, they're buying what they can get cheaply, and there is very little quality testing going on. And people will even make knockoffs of the knockoff brands. It's always going to be a crapshoot on what you actually get. The only way to be sure it to take the pack apart and test the individual cells to try and figure out what they are for sure. That's not something most of us are setup to do easily, if at all. So while I hate paying the ridiculous markup on batteries at times, I also look at it as buying insurance that why I'm buying probably won't try to burn me or my house down.

This is my experience as well. Money spent on cheap batteries is money wasted. I've tried it with camcorder batteries back when they recorded video on tapes. I've tried it with button batteries for my car remote. My company tried it with laptop battery packs. I have friends who've tried it with car batteries. Never have I seen cheap batteries even give proportionate performance when counting both capacity and durability.
 

Ign

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How can the Chinese be smart enough to make a fake battery that will atleast semi work, but dumb enough to get the label graphics wrong?

I agree wholeheartedly, but let's be glad they do. One of my bigger fears is knock-offs that look so good you can't tell.

I just ordered some Motorcraft spark plugs on eBay and now I'm hoping I don't get counterfeits LOL

Netflix did a little series called Broken and while some of the episodes infuriated me it starts off about counterfeit cosmetics. The forgers have gotten pretty good about even copying graphics and packaging. So far, you can still tell but it now takes a deliberate, close examination rather than a quick glance as it used to.

I hope other low dollar (ie not Rolexes or the Mona Lisa) forgeries don't eventually get so good that it requires an eye loupe and degree in electronics to tell....

I guess fake Mitutoyo calipers were a thing, and much like M12 batteries, I don't understand why of all things you could choose to copy you'd pick a precision measuring instrument (unlike a Rolex the margins are pretty small)
 
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Ign

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This is my experience as well. Money spent on cheap batteries is money wasted. I've tried it with camcorder batteries back when they recorded video on tapes. I've tried it with button batteries for my car remote. My company tried it with laptop battery packs. I have friends who've tried it with car batteries. Never have I seen cheap batteries even give proportionate performance when counting both capacity and durability.

.....or per AvE's tests.... performance in ALL temps (within reason).

My batts hang out in my metal building (granted, with typical vinyl-backed insulation) and it's only heated via wood when I'm working in there. I notice even OEM batts get a *bit* sluggish after an overnight cold-soak but they still give acceptable performance. I don't want "fair weather" batteries.
 

ChrisLS8

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I agree wholeheartedly, but let's be glad they do. One of my bigger fears is knock-offs that look so good you can't tell.

I just ordered some Motorcraft spark plugs on eBay and now I'm hoping I don't get counterfeits LOL

Netflix did a little series called Broken and while some of the episodes infuriated me it starts off about counterfeit cosmetics. The forgers have gotten pretty good about even copying graphics and packaging. So far, you can still tell but it now takes a deliberate, close examination rather than a quick glance as it used to.

I hope other low dollar (ie not Rolexes or the Mona Lisa) forgeries don't eventually get so good that it requires an eye loupe and degree in electronics to tell....

I guess fake Mitutoyo calipers were a thing, and much like M12 batteries, I don't understand why of all things you could choose to copy you'd pick a precision measuring instrument (unlike a Rolex the margins are pretty small)

There are Louis Vuitton knockoffs that pass inspection at the stores, my girlfriend's friend got one off OfferUp and they got the stitch count, offset stitching, pattern location and everything correct. The only way they knew was the owner was selling it as a rep
 

kctyphoon

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The possibility of buying good aftermarket M12 batteries has been established long ago. I'm simply asking if anyone has gotten the newer 3.0 or one brand that's advertising 3.5's in the compact form - and can report back. The long shot that anyone has done some actual testing on their capacity would also be nice.

The battery market is flooded with good and bad. As popular as 18650's are its not hard to find something decent. It's not like it was 5 years ago buying some odd size camera battery and thinking it would be ALMOST as good for 1/5 the the price.
 
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1TMF

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My stubby arrived today :) This will slot in nicely below the mid-torque for me and perfect for taking to the race track. The mid-torque has yet to let me down so I see no need for a high torque...

<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/2JyfJCi"><a href="//imgur.com/a/2JyfJCi"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

ChrisLS8

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The possibility of buying good aftermarket M12 batteries has been established long ago. I'm simply asking if anyone has gotten the newer 3.0 or one brand that's advertising 3.5's in the compact form - and can report back. The long shot that anyone has done some actual testing on their capacity would also be nice.

The battery market is flooded with good and bad. As popular as 18650's are its not hard to find something decent. It's not like it was 5 years ago buying some odd size camera battery and thinking it would be ALMOST as good for 1/5 the the price.

I have two Amazon 6ah m12s that I was curious about. After about a year of constant use they hold a charge just fine and make good power with my Stubby however the clips broke and the company is no longer selling on Amazon (they come back as a different brand) not worried about tossing em as they were cheap
 

kctyphoon

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/333302280516

2 pack of compact 3.0s and m12 charger shipped $83
The charger at least makes me feel like I’m getting a deal, even though it’s useless to me.

For the record it’s on a special at hd online for $89 where one battery it normally what? 59?..
if I woulda waited another minute I woulda just ordered it from HD, since the ebay deal charged me tax anyway despite it shipping from California.
 
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darkzero

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/333302280516

2 pack of compact 3.0s and m12 charger shipped $83
The charger at least makes me feel like I’m getting a deal, even though it’s useless to me.

Can find them on ebay for $70 (or a few bucks less) shipped if patient. I got that same starter pack. Been trying to sell the charger for $15 locally for months & no bites. Not worth trying to sell online cause of shipping. I have 2 now & haven't ever used one of them. I don't know what to do with them.
 

kctyphoon

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Can find them on ebay for $70 (or a few bucks less) shipped if patient. I got that same starter pack. Been trying to sell the charger for $15 locally for months & no bites. Not worth trying to sell online cause of shipping. I have 2 now & haven't ever used one of them. I don't know what to do with them.

Yea I have a bunch of extra m12 chargers. They are virtually worthless.
I hate spending this kind of money on batteries. Its such a scam, but I want dedicated jacket batteries this winter, and at the end of the day I’m already this deep in.. I may still buy 2 aftermarkets. I’m planning 2 get 6 hours out of the two 3.0s combined. At least with a real 3.0 I’ll be able to somewhat time the aftermarkets run time against them.
 

darkzero

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Yea I have a bunch of extra m12 chargers. They are virtually worthless.
I hate spending this kind of money on batteries. Its such a scam, but I want dedicated jacket batteries this winter, and at the end of the day I’m already this deep in.. I may still buy 2 aftermarkets. I’m planning 2 get 6 hours out of the two 3.0s combined. At least with a real 3.0 I’ll be able to somewhat time the aftermarkets run time against them.

I hear ya. Cordless tool batteries are like printer ink cartridges. That's how they make a lot of their money. Doesn't bother me too much but I have never paid full price for a battery & won't.

When my Dewalt XRP batteries died, replacement batteries costs so much I just bought a new tool/kit. When I switched from Dewalt to Milwaukee my first 4 M18 batteries were from a drill driver combo kit, Acme had a deal for 2 free extra 5.0 batteries so that was worth it. All my other battery purchases are from ebay or special deals.
 

DFB

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Anyone heard anything on the framing nailer? I have been patiently waiting for months.

Ya ACME has March 31 on the web page, ACE Hardware the new kid on the block :lol: just says early 2020 on there listing

I can hardly wait either! But I don't think I'll be doing any frame building at least around here till after that date anyhow.

So I'm still on the fence about what magazine choice to get though. Was really leaning toward the 2745 30* mag when I first seen them over the 2744. Something different.

BUT I have had a pneumatic 21* PC gun for a while so I do have a lot of the plastic collated nails a few boxes full or partial already. :dunno:

And now that's almost the same deal as when my purchased my 2742 16ga angle finish nailer. I decide to chose that model for some flexibility over the straight gun which I already had in a Pneumatic version, but now I barely even touch the old one and so I still have a bunch of fasteners designed for that model to use up.

And I have to buy more for 34* Milwaukee already as I used most all of them up that I had :lol_hitti

AYIYI can get expensive.


I will have to get the new 18ga straight sometime too now that the problems have been straightened out. Sure glad I didn't buy one of those first ones. And I am actually a bit surprised I still see it being sold online


But truly that has been about the only seriously flawed tool they have released to best of my knowledge, outside of few various drill chuck complaints on one tool model and one I'm still using just fine.


At least that will be simple cross over to what I already have there. I'll be curious if the HD GRIP brand 18ga brad nails I have of a box of that wouldn't EVER work right in my air gun will work in the Milwaukee any better. I also have Dewalt, Senco, Paslode, and Hitachi brands they all work just fine



If not they'll be in the trash or maybe on my flea mkt tool table (ya that's probably a better idea :D )

Thinking all my air tools will end up there at the flea mkt sooner than later too :pimpflash
 
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Bolster

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I "screwed" myself with my m18 fuel impact driver purchase. Decided to assemble my own kit; purchased a hard case for the 2853-20, 2x CP HO 3.0 batteries, and a DC charger. All good except...the 3.0 batteries won't fit in the case! D'oh! They make the insides of those custom cases...so...tight...! Now must either modify the case (which will uglify it) or pick up 2.0 CP batteries...

Suggestions? Elegant solution I'm overlooking?
 

DFB

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I "screwed" myself with my m18 fuel impact driver purchase. Decided to assemble my own kit; purchased a hard case for the 2853-20, 2x CP HO 3.0 batteries, and a DC charger. All good except...the 3.0 batteries won't fit in the case! D'oh! They make the insides of those custom cases...so...tight...! Now must either modify the case (which will uglify it) or pick up 2.0 CP batteries...

Suggestions? Elegant solution I'm overlooking?

Ya...toss them all in a soft side bag :D
 

Ign

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I "screwed" myself with my m18 fuel impact driver purchase. Decided to assemble my own kit; purchased a hard case for the 2853-20, 2x CP HO 3.0 batteries, and a DC charger. All good except...the 3.0 batteries won't fit in the case! D'oh! They make the insides of those custom cases...so...tight...! Now must either modify the case (which will uglify it) or pick up 2.0 CP batteries...

Suggestions? Elegant solution I'm overlooking?

I dunno but the OMT modifies the cases like butter. Although I'm fascinated that one would care what the INSIDE of a plastic tool case looks like.... good luck
 

Bolster

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I dunno but the OMT modifies the cases like butter. Although I'm fascinated that one would care what the INSIDE of a plastic tool case looks like.... good luck

Concern about case is not aesthetic, it's structural. Also opening up holes will allow bits to fall in between the walls and never return. Thanks for OMT tip.
 

BMack37

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I "screwed" myself with my m18 fuel impact driver purchase. Decided to assemble my own kit; purchased a hard case for the 2853-20, 2x CP HO 3.0 batteries, and a DC charger. All good except...the 3.0 batteries won't fit in the case! D'oh! They make the insides of those custom cases...so...tight...! Now must either modify the case (which will uglify it) or pick up 2.0 CP batteries...

Suggestions? Elegant solution I'm overlooking?

Should have asked here. The HO batteries are wider and longer, that's why the new M18 belt clips are wider than the old ones, the HO's won't work with the old belt clip.

I'd cut the case or use a soft sided bag. I MUCH prefer a soft sided bag to the plastic cases.
 

DFB

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Sounds like no totally cheap way out really...Well except for like a free soft side tool bag :lol_hitti

But if you want to use a form fitted hard case :pimpflash
Could buy some Kaizen foam for the box you already have, trim out the inner plastic mold fill it with that and custom fit up your tools

Or buy a Packout case with foam and do the same thing :eyecrazy:

Or buy two standard sized Red Lithium batteries as you have already suggested to use with the box you purchased for storage :beer:

Can you return the 3.0 HO's for credit towards other batteries...is that even an option?

IMO there really not really necessary for the fuel impact driver. Be different it was an impact wrench I'd even suggest one XC and one compact as an alternative

Hmmm I just might OMT out a case myself this winter seeing I just recently got the tool :D

Just for bulk storage (I have at least half dozen or more boxes I never use) :spit:
 

PelicanPines

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I bought four aftermarket 3.0 ah batteries a year ago off amazon. Used two heavily in rotation on my impact... killed one after a few months... blinking error, won't charge.

Switched to genuine Milwaukee batteries on that tool.

Started using the other two aftermarket batteries on my oscillating tool... so far so good ...

To this day... I only killed that one battery and did a warranty on a real 6.0 ah... that died it's first month.

I have about twenty real batteries, wait... thirty. And three remaining aftermarket...
 

kctyphoon

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It would literally be worth it for me to buy aftermarkets and just have them shipped to someone on the forum that had whatever is needed to actually test their capacity so everyone can stop wondering..

I don’t give a **** if they don’t last 5 years - but if they truly are 3.0s or better for $25 for TWO, and each run a jacket for 3 hours for 3 seasons - then I say it’s worth it.

If I was a little more of a scumbag I’d just try to get em through a vendor at work, but I’m not.
 
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