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the neighbors Pole Barn....

Bobby31007

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My neighbor has a Pole Barn that he doesn't want anymore and am wondering if it is possible to relocate to my property. The size is a 24'X48' and it has all nails. I am wondering what the best way to move this is? Can it be moved in 1 peice? There would not be any obstacles in the way other than some power lines that I would have to prop up. Also it would stay on grass the whole time. The total distance from the spot where it is to the spot I would like to put it is about 400 ft. The second photo shows where I would like to move it. There is a small tree that I cut down. That is the spot for its new home (hopefully).

My question is can it be moved in 1 peice? Also, my plan would be to pour a concrete slab first and then lag the building to the concrete slab. I have posted a picture of the barn so it gives you an idea of what I am looking to get. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks
Bobby
 

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checkthisout

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I would think the only cost-effective way would be to take it down piece by piece and have it reassembled/reassemble it on your property

I suppose you could whack all the posts off at ground level and then bolt the posts into post holders but I bet that would cost more than just having a new building constructed on your property.

If the posts are not set in concrete then this process will be easier.
 
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Bobby31007

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Thanks for the feedback. My plan would be to bring in a flatbed trailer and cut the poles at ground level. I then would brace the building from the sides and transport that way. His asking price is a little cheaper than if I was to construct a new building, but I guess I could call around a get a couple of quotes... Thanks again.

Bobby
 
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Bobby31007

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Here are some pics of the inside....
 

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Possum

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His asking price is a little cheaper than if I was to construct a new building, but I guess I could call around a get a couple of quotes..
Bobby

I would say it would have to be ALOT cheaper to even consider it.
 

twostory

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I would say it would have to be ALOT cheaper to even consider it.

I would say it had better be dang near free.

As for moving it, you could dig around the poles and cut them below ground level (maybe?)

I would probably disassemble, move, then reassemble. Too many problems with moving that big a structure.
 

bookman51

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Yes, it can be done and is done all the time. My nephew is a housemover and occasionally I help him (I am light duty labor and another set of eyes). I helped him this summer a bit with a vary similar sized pole building that he moved five miles or so. Send me a private e-mail and I will describe the general process. However, do not take my outline as directions (he is the expert; I am labor)...but just a general idea of what is involved.

I do not know the prices for moving in your area, but here it is quicker and cheaper to move a pole building than to tear it down and rebuild it...otherwise he would not have the business. Of course, it depends on what you may have to pay your neighbor for the building. And, do get the local power company to raise the wires. They know how a

nd have the equipment. I have never seen it, but my nephew's uncle on the other side of the family is also a housemove and had a wire touch a house once. Electricity blew out the dolly tires...which have steel cords in them. Just takes one little slip.

Bookman
 

lawfarm

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We had a similar pole building that was in an area where it was going to be demolished. We put it up in a farmer publication for sale. A group of amish workers came in and paid a few thousand dollars for it. They cut the head off of every nail, pulled the sheets of tin off, and disassembled the entire building....piled it on a few trailers, and hauled it away to rebuild at their farms.
 

bookman51

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I reread your post. I agree with Possum, if your neighbor is pricing just a little less than if you were to construct a new building, that is not enough to either move it as is or to tear it down and rebuild it (unless you are doing it and count your time as free). Not only do you have to move it, you have to replace the bottoms of the posts.

Regarding the Amish, they build stuff all the time and trade work with each other, so it might well have worked for them to tear it down and rebuild it. Then they figure out how to make money farming with horses too (long days and lots of manual work).

Bookman
 

checkthisout

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For a "little less" than a new building I wouldn't even consider it even after weighing labor costs.

How much do you suppose all the lumber will cost to brace it while you move it if you try and do it whole?

Interesting project if you embark upon it. I have moved a couple small structures but they were regular framing resting on footings so the structure stayed unitized making it possible to roll on some old pilings we had laying around.

You don't have that benefit with a pole building.
 
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Chateau Slate 66

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I agree with the above. Usually in these types of deals, the house/barn/garage is practically free since the mover will have several expenses to either disassemble or brace and move the building. The "payment" to the original owner is that the building is getting removed at no cost to them.
 
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Bobby31007

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He is asking $750.00 for the building. I am still trying to get pricing for a new structure of this size. seems that material alone is $6,000 to $7,000 dollars. I think I will go ahead and buy the barn and try to move myself. I am sure a couple of steel beams and a 48' flat bed trailer will do the trick.... First I have to pour my concrete... I will post pics soon
 

bookman51

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That is not a bad price at all. Mind you that I am just guessing from a little information working with my nephew and my brother-in-law, but I would guess $3,000 to $4,000 to move it. I would think to hire someone to take it down and put it up is going to more than match the materials cost. Then you have the cost for the slab and poles.

If you do not brace it up well, you will have a house of cards tumbling down. It can easily rack on you. Beams fastened to the side walls with beams running across the trailer fitting under the beams on the side wall. Then diagonal chains in several places from to top of side wall to bottom of side wall...and particularly that big open door. And some chains straight across so the walls do not pull apart. Do a lot of measuring and do not rush the job. But do not take my words as guidance. They are just a few of the considerations and I have not covered everything.

My brother-in-law and nephew claimed to never have lost a house, but I have been around enough to hear stories when the inexperienced tried to move something. Heavy duty hydraulic jacks that housemovers use make it look easy and the chains they use are not from the local farm store.

Wish you the best on this.

Bookman
 

babzog

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I would say it would have to be ALOT cheaper to even consider it.

I agree. Tell him you'll gladly take it for the price of being a good neighbour (and a case of his favourite malted beverage) but it would be too risky and troublesome to move it for a price. Looks like a good potential garage, but for the hassle you'll go through to move this kinda structure... free or nothing, brother.
 

pjb153

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My 2 cents and I am by no means a structural engineer or contractor, but I would spend the money into bracing the **** out of the building. First get some more trusses under that roof, I am not sure what kind of weather you have there, but for the moves sake alone. Then run a pressure treated band around the base, inside and outside of the building 2x6 should work fine, then have a pressure treated bottom sill on your pad, so that when you place the building on it the two bands on the bottom of the poles will be toe-nailed and box in the poles. The bands will help make the structure more rigid for the move as well.

Place a few more 2x6 (non-pressure treated) bands half way up the walls and one acting as a top band where the eves touch the walls. This will make the building even more rigid. Those latts are simply nailers for the metal.

Once the building is reinforced, you may want to rent or purchase steel beams for the move. Rent or purchase dollies and pull it to your place with a tractor of bobcat, use two.. one to pull and one to brake.

You will need a crew of friends and some beer.
 

bookman51

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Looks like the poles are 8' apart. That is good. You connect the steel beams along the side to the poles. There are what is holding it together now. Then put steel beams across your trailer to fit under the steel beams on the side. Use big clamps to clamp them together and chain them to the trailer. Cut the poles off. I do not see where you need more trusses. The idea is to jack it up evenly so there is no more stress than there is now. Trouble with renting the beams is that you have to drill holes in them and put lag bolts into the poles. Whomever rents the beams to you might not like holes in his steel beams. Never been around when wood was used for the side beams. I suppose enough would work, but you do not want flex. A pole building is not all that heavy but you have all that empty space and no floor. So it has to be braced solid. That is one reason I meantioned earlier the cross diagonal chains. I suppose there are other ways of doing it right (and not doing it right), but this is how I have seen it done. Lots of measuring so everything balanced right; lots of clamping and tying down. How are you jacking it up? For an experienced housemover, from what I have seen via the pictures, I don't think it should be a hard or expensive move, but, as said before, this is all from a distance and not intended as directions as how to actually do...just some general ideas of how it has been done.

Whatever you do, be careful and I hope it works out for you.

Bookman
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Bobby31007

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Okay, now that I have decided to go ahead and attempt to move this building I have paid someone to do all of the concrete work as I have no experience in this field.

Wow, I had no idea that concrete would cost 10 times the amount that I paid for the building. I will have an 8" wide X 24" deep footer with a 6" thick slab. I am told the best way to pour for a building like this is to pour a monolithic slab (1 pour for the footer and slab). I have posted pictures of the work starting, and will add pictures as time goes on. Please let me know your thoughts if you have them.

Also, I want to pour a 6" slab so the I can put a lift in the barn as well as be on the safe side for when the semi has to drive on it with the barn attached.

Bobby
 

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Kevin54

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If all you have to do is move it across the yard and have a 48' trailer, you can do it, but it will take some lumber. Run diagonal braces from each side up to the rafters and tie them in to the top of the rafter and bottom chord. Then if the poles are on 8' span, you should be able to run boards across the diagonals you just put in and let them rest on the trailer. All you need is something on the bed of the trailer to gain ground clearance from the bottom of the barn. If you look at the weight of a pole barn vs. a house, the pole barn should weigh considerably less so it shouldn't be too huge of a project to do if you have a bit of common sense.
 
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Bobby31007

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Bookman, to answer your question on how I am going to jack the building up. I plan on using a farm jack as well as a friends skid-loader. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Bobby
 

baugie

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Suggestion......how high is the ceiling?????? Rent 2 big scissor lifts or 3 or 4......Strategically place them inside the building under the trusses....cut the support poles at ground level......you and your buddies now "in unison", lift the barn up enough to clear the ground and drive it to where you want to place it......now lift the barn higher.....extend the support poles to desired length..... lower it to position

p.s. don't tell the neighbor this or he will think it is too easy and want to charge you more for the barn.
 
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Bobby31007

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the side of the building is 12 feet tall and then the center of the roof is 16 feet tall. This is an option, but with the resources I have I am better off getting the trailer and moving it thus way. Thanks for the idea though, that is the whole point of this website.

Bobby
 

baugie

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with the jacking up of the barn in different sections will require lots of bracing especially if you are gonna lift it onto a trailer
 

checkthisout

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Sweet!

Are you going to put post brackets into the pour so you can just bolt the posts to them?
 
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Bobby31007

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Cement anchors should work. I will make a L-bracket out of steel and lag one side to the post and anchor the other side to the cement. I will put sill seal down and a 2x6 treated down which the building will actually sit on. I could put post brackets in the cement but I'm not sure how much the building is going to flex once off its original location. Same concept that you speak of just doing the process after cement is poured and building is at its final resting point....
 
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Bobby31007

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Things are going well...The forms are in, vapor barrier is in, wire mesh, rebar, and drains are all in place and are ready for cement. Hopefully the weather will be okay for the pour tomorrow morning. A guestimate for concrete is 20 yards, so we will see if that does it.
 

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bookman51

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Skidloader and a farm jack? You are making me nervous, and I am not sure I want to know more. Granted my experience is limited (probably helped move four or five pole buildings and garages, along with a fair number of houses) but I have always seen four hydraulic jacks and raised in unison very slowly. Otherwise you can get some unbearable stresses, which in a pole building could mean crumbled tin, split 2x4s, and worse. The building is not heavy but if the back end of the skidloader comes up at the wrong time and the bucket or forklift goes down, you got all kinds of uneven stresses in the building. IMHO you need jacks on solid cribbing and it all raised slowly in unison. Perhaps there other ways, but I do know one safe way.


You do not have to raise the building high, just enough so the base of the side walls do not hit anything in the 400 feet you are moving. You might need to raise it more to fit over the foundation you are fitting it on. I have never seen a garage or pole building jacked up by the truesses. I would think the strength of the truesses are holding downward pressure (the roof, snow, etc.), not upward pressure.

My experience with pole buildings is that the costs are roughly 1/3 in base materials, 1/3 in construction, and 1/3 concrete. And, this will all vary depending on thickness and extent of the concrete, amount of insulation and finish on the inside, and other things like heat and light. So the amount of the costs of the concrete does not surprise me. That tin, poles, truesses, 2x4, etc. you are looking at are well under half the cost of a building, particularly if you put in a full slab of 6" conrete and 24" footers...then start doing anything like electricty, lights, insulation, heat, etc.

Have you priced getting it moved professionally? I ask because if you do not get it moved successfully, you will have $7,500 invested in a slab of concrete with no building on it.

Wish you the best and above all, be safe. Go slow and if it does not look safe, it probably isn't. Also, do a lot of measuring. After moving the building 400 feet you will be putting it down and then fractions of inches begin to matter.

Bookman
 
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Bobby31007

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I talked to about 7 people that had done this before and half said it had to be disassembled, then reassembled and the other half wanted to charge me right at $10,000 to move it. (I think they were overquoting me because they didn't want to mess with it). Any ways I think you could build a pole barn (24'X48') for around that kind of money.

But to answer your question. Yes, I did try to get professionals involved.

Hey Bookman, Now I am getting NERVOUS! LOL...
 

bookman51

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$10,000!! Wow. I do not think you have a enough housemovers in your area to compete with each other. I talked with my nephew just a few minutes ago. I described the situation...28' x 48' pole building one wire to be raised and 400 foot move.... he said ballpark $4,500 or so. If it were some distance, it would $5,000 on up. He typically charges $9,500 as base price for house, depending on size, distance, etc. House is a lot more work than your pole barn would be.


I had a Wicks pole barn built three years ago 40'x72' with 40x32' 6" concrete slab in shop part. Insultation throughout ceiling and wall insulation in the shop part, 15' side walls; 15 high by 12' front door with opener; 12 x12 back door, two man doors, two set of windows, cupula, transluscent panel around upper south side, etc. Come in right at $40,000. I figure another $10,000 to get right lights, heat, and water in it; still working on some of that.

If you could get build a 28' x 48' in this area for mid $20,000 with the slab you have you would be doing well.

My nephew is probably biased since he moves them, but he said by taking it apart, it is hard to ever match the holes back up. I suppose it can be done but you better number and mark everything very well, do lots of measurements, and take lots of pictures. And, if you are hiring it done, you probably end up paying the construction price (which is what it is to put it back together) plus the tear down price, which would take less time and care, but not a lot as you have to take time to number and label pieces. Deciding to disassemble and reassemble it is a judgment call; but unless there is something I have not seen, thoe who told you it had to be disassembled and reassembled are just wrong. If the tool you have is a hammer, then every solution is somehow going to involve a hammer.

Here, you could have a pretty nice building for $750 for the building, $7,500 for the slab and foundation, and $4,500 for the mover. That is $12,750, which is probably a half price building or less compared with building a new one and putting in a slab. Sounds like the housemovers have plenty to do and/or want to get a large chunk of your savings. It is definiately not a hard move with the right equipment. One day to get to the site and set up; maybe pick it up; second day to move it and set it down and pick up stuff and head to the next job site.

The last pole building I helped my nephew with was a 30 x 60 and moved it about 6 miles.

By the way, I am several states away so from Indiana so not drumming up business for my nephew. But he has been doing it more than 25 years; his dad before that, and his grandad before that...and his uncle and cousin also move houses. And they all make good livings at it.

Well, too bad about the price. All the recommendations about plenty of bracing are good. Backing in a semi flatbed trailer and then setting beams across it to connect to beams on the side wall will work. You do not real heavy beams but it will be trick to move them in and out with a skidloader. Make sure you know where the center is to balance them. I would like to sugget something about something different regarding jacks and cribbing but it would beyond what I have seen done. My nephew uses hydraulic jacks and plenty of 6"x6" and 4"x4" cribbing to create a solid base for the jacks.

You could spend a few thousand on lumber and rentals and still be well ahead of the game. Kind of all depends on how you look at it. Your $750 building is far from a $750 building, but you could spend the money on lumber and rental of the right equipment and still have a good building for half the price of a new one. I love my building. Hope it all goes and well and let us knoa.

Bookman
 
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Bobby31007

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Alright, the pour is finished, now we have to wait to break the forms away. I have posted some pictures..... I am getting excited! I am starting to see the big picture.

Oh I forgot to mension that the forms on the corners gave way. not big deal just more work for the concret guys. They will have to saw some away so the dimensions are correct.

Bobby
 

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Bobby31007

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more pictures..... There were 4 total working on the project....

I have to wait for some time for the cement to dry so in the mean time I will start working on the barn....
 

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checkthisout

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I think you will definitely run into some problems while moving it.

I mean, that's to be expected but I can see that one way or another you are going to git'r done.

The price is definitely right. If you "fail" you can just buy and replace whatever components you break and still come out ahead. :beer:

Brace the hell out of it and takes lots of pictures!
 
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Motown 454

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I showed mty wife this post she weas amazed you could move a building that big. I want a garage and have no room in back or on the side . She tells me to build a foundation in front of my house and have it moved up. the use the old foundation to build my garage.! and I thought I had big dreams lol. Good luck with the move.
Bookman51 can they move a house with a center chimney.
 

Dragster Racer

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I have heard of some local farmers who had done it themselves. Proper bracing in multiple directions is the key. Make it strong and move it slow.
 

bookman51

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Motown 454, There used to be a show on Discovery channel on Monster Movers or something like that. Movers can move light houses, etc. As some say, they can move anything they can get enough dollies and beams under. House movers have an association and give awards to each other as to heaviest move each year, largest building moved, etc. That little pole building that is the discussion of this thread (28 x 48) should be a piece of cake for an experienced mover with the right equipment. As far as a chimney in the middle, unless something really unusual, I would say qualified yes. Now if it is falling down already or the mortor is 100 years old, well maybe not. I helped my nephew move a house a few years ago and moved the fireplace on the outside wall with it. The beams had to be under it and he put banding and chains around it. It probably went 10 or 15 miles. Just open up the pocketbook a bit more. As I found out from Bobby, this area is cheap. So, in your area, it may well be a lot more than in this area. My nephew picks up houses all the time for people to dig and build basements underneath them. Only a bit more slide it over to another foundation. But sometime the cost is not worth it either. Kind of depends if it is cheaper to move than stay; and if you really like your house and neighborhood. Good luck

Bookman
 

Motown 454

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I need a garage but the wife doesn't want to move unless its to Florida. Too hot for me.
Bobby 31007 when arte you planning the move? Haven't you guys been getting a lot of rain lately?
Wayne
 

bookman51

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By the way, the housemovers association is the International Association of Structural Movers. Take a look at the site and their magazine (everybody has to have a magazine) to get an idea of what can be moved. There are some interesting things on YouTube on how not to do it (and well as how to do it).

http://www.iasm.org/about.htm

Bookman
 
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