The ole 2x4 vs 2x6 construction question..

[BellyUpFish]

Ok, so I'm waiting on culverts to be installed for our driveway and as soon as that happens, the bulldozerists are coming to make a driveway and I'm into the final planning stages of my garage.

36x48 is going to be the size. I started out shooting for the moon at 40x50 but it's just not gonna happen, budget went into a storm room.

So..

2x4 vs 2x6 studs?

I want 16" centers and I'm leaning towards 2x4's simply because:

A.) it's Alabama. Our winters don't get as cold for as long as say, Ontario does.
2.) 2x4 will be cheaper to insulate.
B.) 2x4's will save me a little in the construction cost - looks like roughly $500 over 2x6's..
C.) I don't know that the additional strength will be an issue in Alabama - we get no real snow, so snow loads are not a concern.

That said, 2x6 should insulate better, so the energy savings over the lifetime of the garage may warrantt 2x6's, but that's about all I'm coming up with.

What says the hive?

 

[larry_g]

Length?

 

[Zogman]

I've just completed my construction of a stick built garage. Mine is 2x6 construction. That being said, I would let your engineer make that decision unless you have financial restrictions. I have vaulted ceilings with a 27' span, concrete tile roofing and live in earthquake country so there is a lot of pressure being put onto the walls. If your structure doesn't require 2x6, I don't see why you'd want to go that way. I'm not an engineer, but I did sleep at a holiday inn express a few years ago.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Length?

12'..

I've just completed my construction of a stick built garage. Mine is 2x6 construction. That being said, I would let your engineer make that decision unless you have financial restrictions. I have vaulted ceilings with a 27' span, concrete tile roofing and live in earthquake country so there is a lot of pressure being put onto the walls. If your structure doesn't require 2x6, I don't see why you'd want to go that way. I'm not an engineer, but I did sleep at a holiday inn express a few years ago.

Yeh, I'll have a shingle roof and Alabama isn't well known for being an earthquake powerhouse.

Engineer is fine with 2x4's..

 

[Toolfool]

I'm a "stronger is better" kinda guy. At 12' tall studs I'd upgrade to 2x6.

 

[69pontiacgto]

I'll tell you what i did and where i went wrong.My shop is 24'x30' with a 4"concrete slab floor.walls are 2x4 with 16"centers.factory built trusses one foot overhang and 5v barn tin for the roof nailed to 1x4 slats on 12" centers(so you can walk on it without any dents).I use a barrel heater with the top barrel kit and it heats the shop pretty quick with NO insulation.I wish i would have insulated the floor tho that concrete gets damn cold even in SC.I also wish i would have made ten foot walls instead of eight the extra headroom would be nice.Don't worry about it not being big enough.It never will be!I've added a 16x30 shed off one side and right now i'm trying to make up my mind if i want to close the shed in or build another one off the other side.i know i'll never sweet talk the wife into doing both.At the same time anyway. Good Luck with your build.

 

[BellyUpFish]

I'm hoping to put a 12 or 16x48 lean-to off the back one day..

 

[MushCreek]

I don't know if 12' is even code for 2X4's. I would go 2X6 for the added strength.

 

[Bluedodge]

We did 2x6 framing in the house, 2x4 framing for attached garage.

While I like the 2x6 for extra insulation properties (I'm up north), any window or door replacements are either custom orders (deeper jambs and casings) or look odd with aftermarket kits to adapt normal prehung entry doors and windows.

If the $500 increase includes correct doors and windows, it would be a cheap upgrade. If your contractor includes the custom man-doors and windows, I'd say do it.

 

[beakie]

we have cold winters up here, Ontario Canada that is.

nothing to do with cold & insulation, but with 9' ceilings, 24x36 building everytime I close my doors... the whole wall shakes. 2x4 walls... ugh.


go 2x6, if only for the added rigidity, stiffness... piece of mind.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You may not get the cold we do up north, farther up north they get more cold than we do here in Ohio. I would still go with 2x6 as you know it'll be stronger and you'll get more insulation. I'd take the insulation to battle the heat and humidity.

 

[Chevy-SS]

2x6 all the way, especially at 12' length. Spend a little extra now to build it solid. Benjamin Franklin said it very well, “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

Good luck with your project. I built new garage last year, but due to zoning, could only get a 30x30. I would much rather have your size....

-

 

[NUTTSGT]

2x6 all the way, especially at 12' length. Spend a little extra now to build it solid. Benjamin Franklin said it very well, “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

Good luck with your project. I built new garage last year, but due to zoning, could only get a 30x30. I would much rather have your size....

-

Times five is great advice.

 

[Cyberbear]

Where I'm located in Kalifornia, they upgraded the code to 2 x 6 for seismic reasons, I went with 2 x 4 standard construction and 12' walls. Being a bit of a rebel, and working in the construction industry for years, I chose what has worked well for over a century, but also sheathed my 2400 sq/ft shop with 5/8 plywood for those seismic reasons and a more solid structure. I also added a 2' inside perimeter wall storage shelf that acts as a wall stiffener at the 8' level. Since I'm never going to "live" in my shop, the wall insulation is a non issue. For Winter comfort and noise reduction I did insulate my office and wash room only, the entire building space is just too big to try and keep warm. For really cold months I have a small portion of our homesteader cabin allotted for my workshop needs.

 

[matt_i]

I'm going to oppose. As said there are literally 100 million homes built with 2x4s, far more wall loading than a garage.

Over 10' tall you will need center blocking anyway in the stud cavities. And no need to insulate.

Where I personally would spend the saved money is on 1) premium framing lumber, 2) ring shank nails, 3) GRK-RSS screws, and 4) The simpson strong tie section of your big box store. Build it strong, especially make sure uplift connectors are used on the trusses.

#1 would be the biggest, as you don't want to have to fight a bunch of long bowed lumber back into shape. A little twist is fine as you can tweak that back out with a deck tuner, but lots of knots and long-length warpage is harder to compensate for.

 

[MScott]

I'm going to oppose. As said there are literally 100 million homes built with 2x4s, far more wall loading than a garage.

Over 10' tall you will need center blocking anyway in the stud cavities. And no need to insulate.

I strongly disagree with this. Granted the OP is in Alabama and doesn't have to deal with cold weather, but insulation is just as important for hot weather as for cold. I heavily insulated my garage for the cold (2x6 construction) but we also get days with +90F temperatures in the summer and my garage is a cool oasis even without air conditioning.
Also, on the issue of strength, Alabama does get hurricanes so I would consider any extra strength a bonus.

 

[maxpower_hd]

I live in New England where we get both hot and cold weather. My garage has 2x6 wall construction on the lower floor with 2x4 for the room above it. It has 14" wood I-Beams above the garage and it is full of insulation. It is very well insulated and holds heat very well in winter and stays nice and cool in the summer with minimal use of heat or AC.

Structurally I don't think you need 2x6 but the insulation value really is a nice benefit. Doors and windows were easy to find for me. They are readily available here. If you're budget is really tight I wouldn't be opposed to 2x4 construction at all.

My second floor has survived several bad storms and we had HUGE snowfall last year and the snow load was no issue on that part of the house. I did have to shovel the original part of the house off though because it is poor construction in comparison.

 

[My Old Tools]

For that size building, if you are going with a clear span, I would do a red iron metal building, and insulate it. It makes a huge difference in the summer to have that big metal roof insulated.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I'm going to oppose. As said there are literally 100 million homes built with 2x4s, far more wall loading than a garage.

While that is a good point, those houses aren't single story as tall as the OPs will be and probably don't have single walls with unsupported runs as long as this building will.

What kind of sheathing are you going to put on the building?

Will you finish the ceiling and insulate it? I agree with all the posters who talk about the value of insulating the building against the heat of your neighbor.

2x6 is my vote.

 

[beakie]

I'm going to oppose. As said there are literally 100 million homes built with 2x4s, far more wall loading than a garage.

Over 10' tall you will need center blocking anyway in the stud cavities. And no need to insulate.

Where I personally would spend the saved money is on 1) premium framing lumber, 2) ring shank nails, 3) GRK-RSS screws, and 4) The simpson strong tie section of your big box store. Build it strong, especially make sure uplift connectors are used on the trusses.

#1 would be the biggest, as you don't want to have to fight a bunch of long bowed lumber back into shape. A little twist is fine as you can tweak that back out with a deck tuner, but lots of knots and long-length warpage is harder to compensate for.

homes have interior walls which aid in sideloads, wind forces, etc. homes also don't have 12' tall walls.

your additional points/tips are worth while, but 2x6 are the "better" choice for all the reasons people have provided already.

 

[holdover]

my 40 X 60 is 2 X 6 for both the heating and cooling and strength purposes. For a slight difference in price you get a difference in R value. Most everyone now offers doors and windows for 6" construction. The walls are 10' 4 1/2" with scissor trusses the back half for lift clrnc. With 5/12 pitch outside and 3/12 inside I have about 15' clrnc. at the center, this is enough to put a 4 post storage lift on a side wall and a working lift in the center.

 

[MushCreek]

In our house, the doors and windows with 6" returns were the same price as 4".

 

[woodzy]

My .02 cents,

On my new house built two years ago, I went with 2 x 4 and they did what they call is a flash & batt - spray foam about 1/2" thick and then 4" fiberglass. House is 2250 square feet and last month NG bill was $68.00 which includes heat, cooking, hot water, & dryer.

My barn I built in 1999 was 30 x 64 and 12' walls, that was 2 x 6 and insulated just with fiberglass. Trusses for 2nd story were really big, so I'm glad I did the 2 x 6 for the walls. I say to error on the stronger side. 12' walls I think should be 2 x 6

 

[theoldwizard1]

The only reason most people go with 2x6 is for more insulation. 2x6 on 24" centers won't pass code in most places.

 

[38Chevy454]

I have 12 ft high and went with 2x6 walls, on 16 inch centers of course. Not only better for insulation, but stiffer walls. The small price increase for 2x6 is worth it. for sure insulate, it does as much good for hot temps as cold temps. The inside temp moderating effect will be appreciated.

 

[Mitheral]

2x6 walls also give way more room to run utilities in the wall. Your electrician can easily set your wiring back 2" with plenty of room to spare (vs. the 1 1/4" set back you get with a 2x4 wall).

 

[Grizzly Guy]

My building is 48x32 with 12ft high walls.We used 2x6 on 16"centre,believe me it makes for a very solid building.I wouldn't even consider 2x4 for walls,even for a 10ft ceiling.Also Mitheral makes an excellent point to consider.

 

[gtae07]

The only reason most people go with 2x6 is for more insulation. 2x6 on 24" centers won't pass code in most places.

It passes here, and we have to build to the hurricane wind codes.

 

[dave*99]

$500. There are few upgrades you can do to an insulated building that will be as cost effective as this one. I'd say do it.

 

[ishiboo]

The only reason most people go with 2x6 is for more insulation. 2x6 on 24" centers won't pass code in most places.

Only reason? I highly doubt that. 2x6s are straighter, stiffer and produce a nicer building IMO. A tall building with 2x4s is not going to fall down, but the walls are going to move if you tap on them.

Personally, I do everything 2x6 for insulation reasons. Structurally, I would only do 2x4 for a single story residential building.

 

[rburke65]

I did a 32' x 56' and I went 2x6 on 16" centers. Yes...it's a beefy build and I would do it again. But in life it comes down to what ya want to spend and I understand this. Good luck.

 

[BERTMAN57]

Bellyup...not quite sure where in Al you are, but where I'm sitting, with those storms coming, I would feel better if it was 2 x 6, 16" centers, especially at that height.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Bellyup...not quite sure where in Al you are, but where I'm sitting, with those storms coming, I would feel better if it was 2 x 6, 16" centers, especially at that height.

I'm the blue dot..

 

[BellyUpFish]

Thanks for all the help guys.

I'm thinking we are going 2x6 and am going to look into having 2x6's used on the house as well.

 

[Ironcrow]

When, I ran the numbers for my addition, I did double 2x4 for almost the same price as 2x6. Everything said about 2x6, a double 2x4 does better; stronger, stiffer, more room to run utilities, energy efficient....

 

[fastjohnny]

When, I ran the numbers for my addition, I did double 2x4 for almost the same price as 2x6. Everything said about 2x6, a double 2x4 does better; stronger, stiffer, more room to run utilities, energy efficient....

Nailed together on 2x4 wall plate, or staggered on 2x6 wall plate?

 

[Ironcrow]

Nailed together on 2x4 wall plate, or staggered on 2x6 wall plate?

Two separate 2x4 walls total 12 inch thick. I was able to get my inspector to approve 24 inch OC for "both" walls.

 

[lakeroadster]

If it is an "engineered" building for the specific site loading conditions the "2x4 vs 2x6" question is moot.

You'll get more usable interior sq-ft with 2 x 4's.

You'll get better insulation r-values in the walls with 2 x 6's.

What's more important to you?

 

[shortykorte]

Thanks for all the help guys.

I'm thinking we are going 2x6 and am going to look into having 2x6's used on the house as well.

I think you'll be happy with this decision. You do have tornadoes, hurricanes, bad thunderstorms, hot and cold weather. A strong, nicely insulated home and shop will be worth every penny.

My space has FG for the ceiling and spray foam on the south wall. It helps keep it from being a hot box. The now "tool" room is fully insulated, ceiling and walls, and it's much cooler than the main work space.