To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The "pedestrian" garage

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Red Leader

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
2,689
Location
Denver, CO
Made a little more progress. I borrowed a working pressure washer and got the boards cleaned up and dried them out for a couple days.

I decided to work in the office as it is completely insulated and I think I have enough material to finish it (except for the ceiling which will be sheetrock). I think in this room I will stain it or clear it or something. I'll have to do a little research on that.

At least in here I don't care if it soaks up light as I want a little ambiance:D. I'll get some sheetrock this weekend.


DSCF4451.jpg



DSCF4450.jpg


After looking at these pics I think I need to replace that board by the left outlet with a notched one to fill that gap.

Looks beautiful Paul.

About the outlet - have you tried the cover on it? Does the hole stick out? If so, you might fire up that Delta 1160 and just cut a little notch of wood to fill the void. I doubt anyone would notice, especially with the cover on. The seam would be similar to a small 'split' at the end of the board, and would enhance character:)

Any way you decide to do it, you've got a winner on your hands:thumbup:
 

Red Leader

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
2,689
Location
Denver, CO
Another thing about finishing that wood. It is probably VERY open-pored (from age, wood type, power washing, etc), so you might need a lotta finish to make any discernible difference.
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
Looks beautiful Paul.

About the outlet - have you tried the cover on it? Does the hole stick out? If so, you might fire up that Delta 1160 and just cut a little notch of wood to fill the void. I doubt anyone would notice, especially with the cover on. The seam would be similar to a small 'split' at the end of the board, and would enhance character:)

Any way you decide to do it, you've got a winner on your hands:thumbup:

Another thing about finishing that wood. It is probably VERY open-pored (from age, wood type, power washing, etc), so you might need a lotta finish to make any discernible difference.

Thanks fellers!

Yeah Rick, I was thinking something clear. I don't want to change it, just enhance it. I'm gonna do some experimenting on some scraps . Dave's probably right, it's gonna soak it up!

I haven't decided on outlet covers yet. Maybe I'll look for big ones:p.
 

Red Leader

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
2,689
Location
Denver, CO
Thanks fellers!

Yeah Rick, I was thinking something clear. I don't want to change it, just enhance it. I'm gonna do some experimenting on some scraps . Dave's probably right, it's gonna soak it up!

I haven't decided on outlet covers yet. Maybe I'll look for big ones:p.

If you are enhancing, clear is definitely the way to go. I thought I was going to 'enhance' my trim boards by getting a light golden type stain. Yeah that sucked:( Started over and went with the clear poly and it turned out awesome. Gave it a very slight golden hue and really brought out the color of the wood.
 

rickairmedic

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
Paul I can tell you it took 3 coats of Poly on my new floors to get good even coverage . Honestly I dont think 6 coats would have hurt anything but we only had one weekend to get it done . The rest of the house has 4 plus coats on it buuut we were not living in the house when we did those floors and they are the original floors to the house . We just sanded them down and then hit them with the poly . The kitchen and dining room were brand new floors from the floor joists up :D.


They do sell Large outlet covers by the way :D.


Rick
 

Wingnut65

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
3,170
Location
Tampa Bay, FL
Looks great Rick. Like Dave said, just fill that space in with a piece of scrap and put a cover plate on it. When you are done with the walls and it still bothers you that much and you still have pieces left, then you can replace the board.

BTW, If you are going with drywall on the ceiling, then seal the walls before you start the ceiling. You will never get all the dust out of the exposed wood if you don't. Just a thought...
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
Paul I can tell you it took 3 coats of Poly on my new floors to get good even coverage . Honestly I dont think 6 coats would have hurt anything but we only had one weekend to get it done . The rest of the house has 4 plus coats on it buuut we were not living in the house when we did those floors and they are the original floors to the house . We just sanded them down and then hit them with the poly . The kitchen and dining room were brand new floors from the floor joists up :D.


They do sell Large outlet covers by the way :D.


Rick

I saw your floors on GIAG's thread and they look awesome! The old hardware store in town sells poly in small cans so I might just play around a bit. It's not like I don't have time:).

I spent all day down at the neighbor's place (the old guy that gave me the saws) building a roof over one of their small decks so his wife can barbeque in the rain:). Came home and worked on another wall for a couple hours. Ate dinner about nine. I was gonna go back out but I ran out of gas. Tomorrow is another day:thumbup:.
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
Looks great Rick. Like Dave said, just fill that space in with a piece of scrap and put a cover plate on it. When you are done with the walls and it still bothers you that much and you still have pieces left, then you can replace the board.

BTW, If you are going with drywall on the ceiling, then seal the walls before you start the ceiling. You will never get all the dust out of the exposed wood if you don't. Just a thought...

Thanks Jeff. It's a good thing someone is watching out for me. I probably would have just blindly trumbled on without giving a thought to the dust until it was too late.
 

Omphaloskeptic

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
2,346
Location
Ultima Ratio, Wa.
TB66, just a thought about coating the wood wall, you might want to investigate your options as to what specific product to choose. I believe that spray lacquer might be desirable in your situation. It's quick drying property may rapidly seal the porous surface of the fence boards so you don't wind up buying some other product by the 50 gal. drum to get the finish you want. I don't know how many square feet of wall space you have to do, but applying umpteen coats could get old in a hurry.

Oh, as for your switch plates - I'm thinking that a guy with your skill set would be popping out some decorative copper covers. You could probably pump those out right after you create that copper urinal & water closet. (heh-heh) Come on, you know you want to make one, just to show us all how a pro can bend some tin/copper!
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
TB66, just a thought about coating the wood wall, you might want to investigate your options as to what specific product to choose. I believe that spray lacquer might be desirable in your situation. It's quick drying property may rapidly seal the porous surface of the fence boards so you don't wind up buying some other product by the 50 gal. drum to get the finish you want. I don't know how many square feet of wall space you have to do, but applying umpteen coats could get old in a hurry.

Oh, as for your switch plates - I'm thinking that a guy with your skill set would be popping out some decorative copper covers. You could probably pump those out right after you create that copper urinal & water closet. (heh-heh) Come on, you know you want to make one, just to show us all how a pro can bend some tin/copper!

Tryin' to wear me down aren't ya:)?
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
I'm almost done with the office except for the top which I'll do after sheetrock. I have about a half of a wall left to do. It's kinda hard to take pics in a 12x12 room. This shows more of the true 'color' of the wood without the light shining on it. Anymore suggestions for a finish?





DSCF4455.jpg




DSCF4455.jpg


DSCF4453.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
I don't think I've shown the place from this perspective. My sig pic is looking north. These are from the south. The property goes about another 200' behind where I'm standing. We've done a lot of work 'parking' this out and still have the rest to go. The doors and **** leaning on the end wall are going to the dump soon. The old Chevy truck needs a little work on fuel delivery which will happen soon. It's my late FIL's truck. He bought in new in '78. It doesn't look great but it just turned 100K.

DSCF4457.jpg


A little further down.

DSCF4462.jpg
 

rickairmedic

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
Paul I still think a nice satin clear will bring out the colors in the wood without covering them up . I have to agree on the door as well unless of course that door leads outside and not into the garage . Should that door lead into the garage then a nice classic wooden door with windows in the top half would look great with the wood walls :D.

Rick
 

Wingnut65

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
3,170
Location
Tampa Bay, FL
No suggestions for the finish, but I think you need a retro door!

Can ya get some boards and lay them together to create an old style barn door? Maybe with a worn white wash finish to separate it from the wall, but distressed enough to fit in. I hadn't noticed until bhc brought it up, but that one is too new looking...
 

trbomax

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,556
Location
starvation lake,mi.
I like deft clear wood finish for interior doors and trim, the lacquer,not poly.I prefer to spray it,but have put a lot of it on with a roller. When we were building the house here I didnt have a large compresser up here,so I rolled all the interior doors with the intent of re spraying them when I got one of the compressers moved up. They came out so good that I never did it. We have a florida room off the house thats finished inside with t-111 for paneling and rough sawed cedar trim. I let it age for a year (so it would darken up a bit) then rolled 4 coats of the semi gloss deft on it. The first coat will really soak in and even though it drys in a couple hours, I let it sit overnight before recoating. After coat #2 I scuff it with 220,vacume it and put 2 more coats on. I always add smoothie (flow aditive) to it when either spraying or rolling. Ive used it many times over the years for furniture too. All N's kitchen cupboards are finished with it (sprayed).
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
Paul I still think a nice satin clear will bring out the colors in the wood without covering them up . I have to agree on the door as well unless of course that door leads outside and not into the garage . Should that door lead into the garage then a nice classic wooden door with windows in the top half would look great with the wood walls :D.

Rick

I think I agree on the satin clear. That door does lead outside so I'd like to keep it as it's insulated, pre-hung w/the magnetic closure etc. The other door (not shown) is exactly the same except 32" instead of 36". It would be cool to have a window out to the garage.



Can ya get some boards and lay them together to create an old style barn door? Maybe with a worn white wash finish to separate it from the wall, but distressed enough to fit in. I hadn't noticed until bhc brought it up, but that one is too new looking...

Maybe I could just strip the paint off and let it rust for a while:), then clear it. Or, put a patina on it like they do on hot rods. You guys got me thinkin'. Between all of you and Ompaloskeptic I'm feelin' the pressure:lol_hitti
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
I like deft clear wood finish for interior doors and trim, the lacquer,not poly.I prefer to spray it,but have put a lot of it on with a roller. When we were building the house here I didnt have a large compresser up here,so I rolled all the interior doors with the intent of re spraying them when I got one of the compressers moved up. They came out so good that I never did it. We have a florida room off the house thats finished inside with t-111 for paneling and rough sawed cedar trim. I let it age for a year (so it would darken up a bit) then rolled 4 coats of the semi gloss deft on it. The first coat will really soak in and even though it drys in a couple hours, I let it sit overnight before recoating. After coat #2 I scuff it with 220,vacume it and put 2 more coats on. I always add smoothie (flow aditive) to it when either spraying or rolling. Ive used it many times over the years for furniture too. All N's kitchen cupboards are finished with it (sprayed).

I'm not sure I know what deft is trbomax, could you enlighten me??
 

Red Leader

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
2,689
Location
Denver, CO
Those walls keep looking better and better the more I see them.

Paul, if I were you I would try and find a way to preserve and just slightly enhance the natural color of the wood. Bring out the color a little bit, but then call it a day. The beauty is in the wood itself - a product that highlights the wood and not itself I would think would be the way to go:thumbup:
 

USMCdodge

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
453
Location
MCBH
beautiful garage sir, love the red and black! Im stuck with a small single car garage for now with just enough space for tool boxes and a car.
 

BwBrown

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
14
"Anymore suggestions for a finish?"

I used clear satin poly on the old wood in my civil-war-vintage home. The old wood patina is breathtaking.
 

Omphaloskeptic

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
2,346
Location
Ultima Ratio, Wa.
C'mon guys, TB66 is weakening; let's keep up the pressure and pretty soon he's going to cave and produce a work of art copper urinal that he will proudly post in the "ARTSY FARTSY" thread. I can see his post pictures now: first, a lovely series of stamped/embossed switch plate covers, then followed by a showcase of his riveted and Craftsman-hammered copper door overlays, and finally, the 'Piss de la Resistance', the lovingly crafted and exquisitely pee-teena'd rolled, folded, bent and brazed URINAL!:lol_hitti

Long ago when I worked for a commercial/residential painting company, we shot a LOT of the Deft product. It dried quickly and produced a good hard finish on woodwork and kitchen cabinets, but like I said above, there may be other/better products available which don't get sucked into the grain of the fence boards. When you shoot lacquer, you had best use a good mask, otherwise, your IQ will drop by 50 points! :shocking:
 

Wingnut65

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
3,170
Location
Tampa Bay, FL
Pressure is on... Satin would look nice IMHO.

Maybe I could just strip the paint off and let it rust for a while:), then clear it. Or, put a patina on it like they do on hot rods. You guys got me thinkin'. Between all of you and Ompaloskeptic I'm feelin' the pressure:lol_hitti

This is the first thing that popped in my mind when I read this. This '37 Ford is a from a fiberglass kit.

hrdp_0704_rat_02_z+1937_ford_rat_rod+patina+rear_view.jpg


And for that copper 'Piss de la Resistance' that you are planning, an embossed feature on the back will help keep the floor clean. Nuttin like having a target to keep the focus...
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
Those walls keep looking better and better the more I see them.

Paul, if I were you I would try and find a way to preserve and just slightly enhance the natural color of the wood. Bring out the color a little bit, but then call it a day. The beauty is in the wood itself - a product that highlights the wood and not itself I would think would be the way to go:thumbup:

"Anymore suggestions for a finish?"

I used clear satin poly on the old wood in my civil-war-vintage home. The old wood patina is breathtaking.

I think clear satin is what I will do. The old hardware store in town has an awesome paint department guy. I'll go talk to him today.

C'mon guys, TB66 is weakening; let's keep up the pressure and pretty soon he's going to cave and produce a work of art copper urinal that he will proudly post in the "ARTSY FARTSY" thread. I can see his post pictures now: first, a lovely series of stamped/embossed switch plate covers, then followed by a showcase of his riveted and Craftsman-hammered copper door overlays, and finally, the 'Piss de la Resistance', the lovingly crafted and exquisitely pee-teena'd rolled, folded, bent and brazed URINAL!:lol_hitti

Long ago when I worked for a commercial/residential painting company, we shot a LOT of the Deft product. It dried quickly and produced a good hard finish on woodwork and kitchen cabinets, but like I said above, there may be other/better products available which don't get sucked into the grain of the fence boards. When you shoot lacquer, you had best use a good mask, otherwise, your IQ will drop by 50 points! :shocking:

I shot a lot of laquer when I was building models so I have the good respirator etc.

While the idea of the urinal is cool, the whole idea of the bathroom is to, you know, dispose of the "other stuff".
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State

Omphaloskeptic

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
2,346
Location
Ultima Ratio, Wa.
"While the idea of the urinal is cool, the whole idea of the bathroom is to, you know, dispose of the "other stuff". "

Awww "stuff", Tb66, is it that much of a hike to the house? lol
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
A couple more pics of the office somewhat put back together. Temporarily. I'm gonna get some of that Deft satin clear laquer tomorrow. I would have bought it from the local hardware today but I won't pay $12 more for a gallon.

DSCF4474.jpg


DSCF4475.jpg
 
OP
T

tinbender 66

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,294
Location
Western Washington State
TOOL TIME!!

A little bandsaw progress. The fun part. Cleanup. It's a good thing I took lots of pics as I took it apart:headscrat.

DSCF4407.jpg


DSCF4465.jpg


This one's gonna get all new bearings, urethane tires, etc. The works.
 

rickairmedic

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
Loookin good PAul looks like you have already cleaned up quite a bit on that monster :D.

I also noticed in your latest office pics what looks like a door in the background on saw horses getting a little patina added to it :D.

Rick
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom