sawduststeve
Well-known member
Evening Strouty
How about scaffolding with a corrugated tin roof. Like we use when we have a house roof off.
Will be classed as a temporary structure.
Steve
Above 1200 Sq/FT The Salvage Garage
- Thread starter Strouty
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
How about scaffolding with a corrugated tin roof. Like we use when we have a house roof off.
Will be classed as a temporary structure.
Steve
casmurbax
Well-known member
What place are you trying(hoping) to be yours? I lost track.
I am amazed at the things that you buy, how you just come across this stuff.
I am amazed at the things that you buy, how you just come across this stuff.
Not certain, but at the Hill, could you pour an extension
maybe 4 foot wide reinforced to support the post weight. Could be cheaper. Also possibly cut the inside edgeof the existing slab and poor reinforced post supports for other side of lift. Just my thoughts.
maybe 4 foot wide reinforced to support the post weight. Could be cheaper. Also possibly cut the inside edgeof the existing slab and poor reinforced post supports for other side of lift. Just my thoughts.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
This kind of **** is why i built in an AG area. I don't even need a permit for structures other than house.
I am not going to worry about it yet, it wasn’t something I was planning on at all. Whatever roof I put over it will need to be at least 20’ from the ground, the lift will raise a truck 5’9” and then you add the truck up to 13’6”. The cover that I was looking at is 15’ tall, so a total of 24’6” using the Conex as a base. Those are about $5k and they actually have a decent snow load rating.
bimmer1980
Well-known member
behind the Salvage garage... stack two Conex's tall on each side of the lift. Then make the roof out of more conex's.... squirt spray foam in the gaps... call it a day. Pour concrete in the middle. Out of view of the township.... maybe.. LOL...
86turbodsl
Well-known member
You could do that but a convex is expensive to not have access to for a height increase
Plastikosmd
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2016
- Messages
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Does't he need about 14-16ft. wide for the hoist?
Plastikosmd
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2016
- Messages
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Guy here did it with lips/ledger on edge of connex instead of spanning both middle and both boxes (double stack) and bolted/welded
Just basic element protection
Just basic element protection
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
What about the way Diesel Creek did his? That would seem to work fine for this application.
I think my biggest issue is the space that I want under and around, I really need 13' for the lift, then I would like 7' or more on each side, plus the 8' Conex boxes, 40' won't quite do it, so 45' would be best, but then you might as well go to 50' and have enough room to park trucks on either side of the lift. I can get 40' for a fairly reasonable price, so I may just have to go that route, I think the killer is the 20' height that I need in the middle 10' area to clear the trucks on the lift, while not all of them will need that much height, most would need 18' or 19' anyways.
xtremek
Well-known member
Don't tarp the Conex boxes?
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Got it. Pour your slab. Surround it with half buried 40yd dumpsters full of gravel. Put your conex stack on the dumpsters. Voila, 20+ foot high walls. If you want shelter, throw up some I-beams, corrugated floor sheet, a couple big tarps, and put a thin layer of concrete over it. Or, if you can find some blemished prestressed slabs....
If I am going through all the effort, the conexes will be under the roof. I know from past experience that there will be lots of issues from snow if I don't. If I were to double stack high cubes, it would get me to 19', but then I lose that 640 square feet of undercover storage, that is a lot of space.
F451
Well-known member
I'm feeling like all these interesting solutions are just leading up to a full blown new shop build. Big rig lift and big rig parking sized.
I think anything less will just be an exercise in frustration, in the building of it, and in the usage once its up, or sort of up.
Of course budget, space, local permitting, time, are all constraints that make a new big shop not doable, completely understandable.
And nice score on that lift, seems like you'll get a lot of use out of it once its set up.
I think anything less will just be an exercise in frustration, in the building of it, and in the usage once its up, or sort of up.
Of course budget, space, local permitting, time, are all constraints that make a new big shop not doable, completely understandable.
And nice score on that lift, seems like you'll get a lot of use out of it once its set up.
New shop at the Salvage Garage is a no go, they consider me commercial and I would basically spend $20k (probably more) just to get a permit, then the rules for the building are much more stringent than an accessory building. To build a new building with me doing the majority of the work would still be too expensive.
If I make a deal with the Hill, I would have a much easier time building at the bottom of the hill and that has sort of always been my plan. For $5k and a few days with two people I can have a decent setup that will last for several years. Later on, if the Hill doesn’t work out, I can look into more permanent solutions at the Salvage Garage. Most likely I will need to put a house there, making the buildings accessory structures and the permitting process will be much simpler.
If I make a deal with the Hill, I would have a much easier time building at the bottom of the hill and that has sort of always been my plan. For $5k and a few days with two people I can have a decent setup that will last for several years. Later on, if the Hill doesn’t work out, I can look into more permanent solutions at the Salvage Garage. Most likely I will need to put a house there, making the buildings accessory structures and the permitting process will be much simpler.
jack stand
Well-known member
bimmer1980
Well-known member
While a full concrete slab would be the best....
How about one of the following?
* 2" thick (or similar) steel plate about 4' square with holes drilled and tapped for mounting each of the pillars?
* Or a "pre-cast" concrete slab that has mounting studs and fork pockets (or lifting holes -- precast basins have holes on each side that a lifting pin slides into) This would need to probably be 5 or 6" thick (Or thicker) and at least 4' square. If the concrete had back fill around it to have a level area, it would be workable.
Regardless, this would ultimately give you some "flexibility" long term for moving the lift if you need to. You have the appropriate lift equipment to move this around (forklift or crane) so the couple of thousand pound pads is not a problem.
At a minimum, you get it set up and usable. Maybe you don't have a "roof" over your head, but so what. In the short term, having this usable and available is far better than it just being one more item to shuffle around, trip over and just create yard art.
I would suggest not getting hung up on the perfect roof solution. We all know that the best would be a brand new site with a new building. In fact, this would be a better long term target than being restricted by your father's issues. But I digress...
How about one of the following?
* 2" thick (or similar) steel plate about 4' square with holes drilled and tapped for mounting each of the pillars?
* Or a "pre-cast" concrete slab that has mounting studs and fork pockets (or lifting holes -- precast basins have holes on each side that a lifting pin slides into) This would need to probably be 5 or 6" thick (Or thicker) and at least 4' square. If the concrete had back fill around it to have a level area, it would be workable.
Regardless, this would ultimately give you some "flexibility" long term for moving the lift if you need to. You have the appropriate lift equipment to move this around (forklift or crane) so the couple of thousand pound pads is not a problem.
At a minimum, you get it set up and usable. Maybe you don't have a "roof" over your head, but so what. In the short term, having this usable and available is far better than it just being one more item to shuffle around, trip over and just create yard art.
I would suggest not getting hung up on the perfect roof solution. We all know that the best would be a brand new site with a new building. In fact, this would be a better long term target than being restricted by your father's issues. But I digress...
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Just a comment here. Each plate you're talking about would weigh over 1300 lbs and cost in the neighborhood of 7-800 at scrap pricing to over 1500 at premium prices EACH. You can buy a lot of concrete for 6,000. And it would probably be more usable mounted in concrete like it was designed. It would certainly be easier to work around.
It would be close to 25 yards too. So all in for a tent style roof with slab would be about $10k and that is with me doing all the work. I will probably save some money on the concrete, with some effort, I can mix it myself. I think that effort will be worth it in the long run, I know I will need more slabs, materials would be substantially cheaper than delivered concrete.
bimmer1980
Well-known member
Having mixed concrete for a few projects, I think it only makes sense for smaller project where the readimix concrete company charges a "short load" and delivery charge. I have done about 1.5 yards with a small mixer, and it *****. Wear's a guy out scooping and filling the mixer. And after all that labor, you still have to screed it, mag float, bull float and trowel it.
For that amount of concrete, it makes sense to just have the truck(s) come and dump concrete, finish it and be done with it. You would potentially save money if you prep all the slab base and forms over a concrete guy coming and prep'ing. (altho it may benefit you greatly to just pay the guy and have it done.....)
While I get the idea of the tent and all that, once the lift is in and usable, you can worry about that. Once a truck is on the lift, you essentially have a "roof" over your head .....
I know you're not in a hurry about getting the lift installed, but it would save some hassle if you didn't have to move it six times before you finally install it. Let alone it is a capital investment that is giving you no return (i.e. use) while it is sitting in the yard rusting.
Regardless, we'll keep the popcorn going.... LOL
I say all this as I would like to see you actually getting to your truck projects instead of the endless circle of shuffling stuff around..........
For that amount of concrete, it makes sense to just have the truck(s) come and dump concrete, finish it and be done with it. You would potentially save money if you prep all the slab base and forms over a concrete guy coming and prep'ing. (altho it may benefit you greatly to just pay the guy and have it done.....)
While I get the idea of the tent and all that, once the lift is in and usable, you can worry about that. Once a truck is on the lift, you essentially have a "roof" over your head .....
I know you're not in a hurry about getting the lift installed, but it would save some hassle if you didn't have to move it six times before you finally install it. Let alone it is a capital investment that is giving you no return (i.e. use) while it is sitting in the yard rusting.
Regardless, we'll keep the popcorn going.... LOL
I say all this as I would like to see you actually getting to your truck projects instead of the endless circle of shuffling stuff around..........
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
What if you were to pour the slab & set up the lift? Then go to a boat canvas maker & have custom covers made for the lift components to keep it out of the weather until you build a roof.
Not as nice as working under a roof year round, but it might get you going sooner.
Just kicking thoughts around while you're figuring out your best approach.
Not as nice as working under a roof year round, but it might get you going sooner.
Just kicking thoughts around while you're figuring out your best approach.
You are going to mix 25 yds of concrete for a continuous slab? Crazy talk and the slab will be worth diddly squat. Don’t forget rebar, lots of it if you are doing a slab on grade in Maine. I will guarantee you will regret it if you don’t. I haven’t poured a slab in many years but at one time I did my share. You need help to pour a slab, lots of it. Get some prices to just place the slab. You form it, you tie the rebar, you clean up. Get a pro to place it, screed it and get the finish you want.
Man, how quickly you guys forget, I have a volumetric cement truck, the effort would be to get things functional again, my plan had been to put it on a trailer so it could be useful again.
I have mixed 12 yards over three days with a little stand mixer, that wasn’t fun and I was in my early twenties, also took out L4 and L5, so I have no plans to mix 25 yards by hand.
I have mixed 12 yards over three days with a little stand mixer, that wasn’t fun and I was in my early twenties, also took out L4 and L5, so I have no plans to mix 25 yards by hand.
I am finally marking out the hemlock 8x8 beams from last year, I plan on using them for the CNC mill and the lift. It is going to be a bit of an annoying day tomorrow, I am going to pick up the lift, while leaving the Hyster there, then pick up the Hyster again on my way to pick up the CNC mill. It seems like the extra hour of effort will be easier than loading them with the knuckle boom by myself. If I had no other option, the knuckle boom would be fine, I haven't officially decided this yet just leaning in that direction.
I hope to have everything major back to the Salvage Garage this weekend, my plan next is to start cleaning and organizing, I think I need to dedicate a couple weeks to that, I plan on alternating between the office and the shops so that I am moving forward on both fronts.
I am looking at a tire balancer that is in Vermont, but I am not planning on getting that until after the Fourth.
I hope to have everything major back to the Salvage Garage this weekend, my plan next is to start cleaning and organizing, I think I need to dedicate a couple weeks to that, I plan on alternating between the office and the shops so that I am moving forward on both fronts.
I am looking at a tire balancer that is in Vermont, but I am not planning on getting that until after the Fourth.
Ship auger shouldn't be an issue, what are you drilling with?Drilling the holes is proving to be the tough part. I think I have just about broken the drill in half, along with my arms.
xtremek
Well-known member
Nothing is coming off your plate, but many worthwhile things are being added to it. Do you want the satisfaction of doing the job, or getting the tool usuable? Surely there has to be some decent contractors/tradesmen in your area who can take some of the jobs off your hands. I'm not repairing any vehicles this year. Can I do 95% of the repairs myself? Yes. Can I do them cheaper? Yes. Is it cost effective? Not by a long shot. I'm doing the repairs on the Old Mule because I could replace it for the cost of the repairs, but I can't afford to replace it. Cars and trucks, that's not the case and my time is worth a heck of a lot more than what it will cost me to drop off the keys and sign the check.
I brought Clark over to the Salvage Garage and then unloaded, now the Hyster is loaded up and ready for tomorrow. The new tires are definitely too bing, I could not drive into the trailer, I had to back on, forward was too high with the bigger tires. At least it will back on, just sucked in the dark.
On a bad note, drilling the holes got one of my fingers twisted up and it hurts pretty good. Don’t think it is broken, but I definitely moved it in a way that I shouldn’t have.
On a bad note, drilling the holes got one of my fingers twisted up and it hurts pretty good. Don’t think it is broken, but I definitely moved it in a way that I shouldn’t have.
xtremek
Well-known member
Ouch! Sorry to hear that.
