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Above 1200 Sq/FT The Salvage Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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FullRaceMerc

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Jan 9, 2015
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SoCal (SGV)
I can see one of these in his future 😆
Screenshot_20230701-163516_DuckDuckGo.jpg
I've been using one of these since the 80s. Still do. Lots of torque & better control on difficult bits. But you still have to be careful to keep a hand from being crushed. Resting the handle against something solid is best. I warn guys who borrow it that it will knock you off of a ladder. I've been surprised by the number of guys have brought it back with tales of how it knocked them off the ladder. The red "D" handle can be rotated in relation to the chuck for the best position. And the 90⁰ gearbox can be swapped around for more speed or more torque, depending on the need. Mine is always set up for more torque.
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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Southern Maine
My drill wasn’t switching from forward to reverse properly, so I wasn’t expecting it to turn the way it did. It happened so fast, it basically jammed in between my fingers pushing them sideways as it came around. After that I had to switch it twice to get it to actually go in reverse.
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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Southern Maine
I found some semi local rims for the Blurb and the trailer, going to grab those this afternoon, I found a few on eBay, but most were curb rated or just awful looking unless you spent too much money. Hopefully they are as good as the pictures show.

I also ordered a used set of Hilman rollers and I have my eyes on a couple other things per usual...

I plan on getting the wheel balancer later in the week, then I am going to have to find a rim clamp. After that I should be set for a while. ;)
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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I guess the Blurb doesn't want the bent rim to go away. The wiper motor has been doing the typical not shutting off without turning off the key, last week I ordered a new board to solve that issue. I drove it into the shop and the brakes were super grabby (they are all wet), so I figured I would put it on the lift and check to make sure they were adjusted up. I changed the board in the wiper motor and that worked perfectly, on to the brakes. One was already adjusted fine, so I didn't touch it, the other one was a little loose, so I gave it to clicks. With the multitude of problems I have had, I now start it while on the lift, put it in gear, then apply the brake a couple times, rinse and repeat. Well, the one I didn't touch ended up being ridiculously tight, tight enough I thought the brake was still on, nope, it isn't. No problem, just release the adjuster, nope, it is so tight that I am afraid I will break something at this point. I am going to toss this entire rear end on the junk pile in a minute. :(
 
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Strouty

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Southern Maine
I got the drum off, had to use an air hammer, but at least I didn't drive it and get the drum warped from heat. As soon as it was off, the adjuster will move in either direction just fine. This is exactly what happened to the other side, except that side the drum got smoked. I am loosening up the shoes and going to put it back together, all I can say is I am some glad that this particular full float rear end isn't a captured brake drum. Although I would have probably created a boat anchor out of it a long time ago. Still very frustrating and yes the shoes are still on backwards.
 

Firebrand

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Feb 23, 2010
Messages
294
Location
New Hampshire
Keep on keeping on! Finger and hand pain is a real drag for sure. Ice more than you feel is necessary.

If you're headed across NH over to VT, drop a line as you might be headed past my locations.

Love the CNC. Being able to make stuff is always key, no matter the material or application!
 
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Strouty

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Southern Maine
The balancer is in Orwell, Vermont along the NY border.

The Blurb made the trip fine, no issues noted. I will need one more rim, then I am going to have to decide on tires, current set has lots of life left, but one sidewall has been rubbed hard (prior to me). It is bad enough, I keep expecting something dramatic to happen, but it hasn’t. I think buying a new set for the blurb, then using the current tires for the trailer would be best.
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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Southern Maine
Wood Chuck Norris is busy eating almonds at the moment, but I may be able to get him to take some glamour shots later. Looks like he just wanted some food, then a nap.

How is it that a broken finger can make the entire hand hurt? It really isn’t swollen anymore, but it is starting to turn funny colors. Maybe it should just be amputated? ;)

IMG_5504.jpegIMG_5508.jpegIMG_5509.jpeg
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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We are now watching some YouTube, I try and spend 30 minutes with him at least once a day, usually he gets a quicker second visit. I really need to get it so he and I are at the same location, I am sure he is as unhappy that I am not around as I am that I have to drive to the Hill just to see him.

IMG_5510.jpeg
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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Ordered a couple more tidbits, I am trying to clean up some loose ends as far as missing supplies, ordered more ring terminals and some more heat shrink tube. I have to pick up some supplies at Lowes, so I need the little dump trailer. At least it isn't totally down pouring out, it looks like the afternoon will be cloudy, so I may even be able to get some stuff done outside over at the Salvage Garage. I have Clark over there to try and get things out of the back forty and open up some space. Once the stuff is out front, I can get to it with the Hyster no problem. I would like to get this done so that Clark can come back to the Hill, I have things that need to be moved up there.
 
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Strouty

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It is probably going to be as bad as that movie is to set it up. I started diving into things, first order of business is to search out schematics for the new equipment. I will be curious to see if the previous owner had setup the stops or if he just wired up the servo motors and jogged things. I am going to label things for future reference, so there is going to be some detective work going on.
 

bimmer1980

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Feb 5, 2009
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2,104
Location
York, PA
Another guy here on garagejournal, "DocsMachines" has a decent write up over in the fabrication section about his CNC acquisition and setup... You're may have seen it already, but if not, it was enlightening....

Do you have any machinist friends? A guy that was wanting to do some work on the side would probably help move this along much quicker.... And get you to the point of actually producing parts...

I think you'll spend a lot of time getting this set up and to the point of running parts.... And where the CNC really shines is making multiple of the same parts....

I admire the dream and the motivation, but I'm a little fuzzy on how this fits into your scheme.

Have you sourced a lot of custom parts from machine shops that would drive you to the need of a CNC?

Also, don't you have a manual milling machine already? Are you making parts on that machine that are better suited to CNC?
 
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Strouty

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My future plans are to be determined, I honestly don’t care if I do productions runs, just having the third axis will allow me to make things that I haven’t even dreamed of yet. The two axis Bridgeport is great for basic shapes, but you need to babysit it and change tools and then adjust the depth manually. I have no real need for a CNC mill, but what the heck, right?
 

bimmer1980

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York, PA
Yeah, that's fair..... I do get the desire to have a CNC....

But for me to spend my "limited funds" I would need a bit more justification, but I guess it depends on the entry cost....

I've seen some of the stuff that DarkAero has cranked out, and that's pretty nifty!!! They're running a Tormak and a CNC router. They have a great YouTube channel.
 

Plastikosmd

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Nov 17, 2016
Messages
1,254
I like the old prototrac/a.g.e machines.

early “cnc”

3 axis and you program it right in machine. No G code just polar coordinates. Great for home shop use as most things involve pockets, bolt patterns, etc are so easy.


Drill to depth e and cut pocket a,b to c,d etc

While it may be limited in 3D shapes, for home shop it is awesome
 
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Strouty

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The Bridgeport is like that in some ways, it has a "wizard" that allows for setting up shapes and bolt circles right on the screen, no G-code or programming needed. Not quit as simple as what you are describing, but not nearly as complex as the Matsuura will be.

I have found most of the manuals for the components, well the new ones, the pieces and parts left on the mill are the basics, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out what they are and how they work. At least that is what I hope.
 

dr_clyde

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Jan 7, 2009
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Location
Holland, MI
Matsuura makes a damn fine machine, but you'll find the learning curve to be pretty steep with a machine designed to run strictly on Gcode and no conversational control. Still looks like a really cool machine though, perfectly sized for a small shop.

I couldn't tell from your pics, but it looks like the control is missing the monitor? Do you know what control it has on it? I am assuming a Fanuc of some flavor.

I would spend some time getting familiar with Fusion 360. It's free for hobbyist use and has 3 axis CAM software built into it. They also have a helpful staff at Autodesk for getting your post processor tuned for your machine. I'm sure they have a generic Matsuura control but it may need tweaking to run on your specific machine. Once you get a post dialed, the sky is the limit. Just need to get the hang of the modeling and programming side of things.

Having set up and operated several CNCs over my career, my advice is to go slow, take conservative feeds and speeds and then slowly ramp up to what the machine and tooling is capable of. Just because the machine can move at 700 IPM and 8000 RPM doesn't mean you start there. The tooling and setup determines your feeds and speeds, not your machine.

Make sure it's leveled properly, has all the required lubes and coolants, and the machine is happy after the move. There usually is an alarm or two due to wires or connectors being bounced loose on the trip.
 
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