Good day to be inside, we got a lot of water today.
Above 1200 Sq/FT The Salvage Garage
- Thread starter Strouty
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
xtremek
Well-known member
Getting the pallet rack will be a big help. Any time you can move forward with organizing is a positive.
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Like a big grownup game of Tetris...
Johanfpa
Well-known member
When/where are you planning to put up your Stak system Strouty?
I hope to start messing with it in December, I have to work on the outside stuff while I still can.
Temporary fix for Clark’s exhaust, going to be tough to find the manifold, might have to braze this one back together, not going to be pretty if so. I can find them from other engines, but I will need a new carb (they are usually updraft) and the exhaust will go up, rather than down. I have all the part numbers, but nothing even pops up on Google.
Temporary fix for Clark’s exhaust, going to be tough to find the manifold, might have to braze this one back together, not going to be pretty if so. I can find them from other engines, but I will need a new carb (they are usually updraft) and the exhaust will go up, rather than down. I have all the part numbers, but nothing even pops up on Google.
xtremek
Well-known member
That looks like a royal pain to repair.
I don’t think this so, it was ex military, then used at a logging yard from what I learned.
I adjusted the brakes on the Blurb again, I am starting to understand why the previous owner sold the truck, yesterday we swapped to a NOS throttle pedal (seems good so far), and this morning I adjusted the rear brakes up over 20 clicks on each side (yes that is a lot). I hope that they are finally seated and won’t need crazy amounts of adjustment again. I am getting really sick of these stupid problems, it is wearing me out.
I adjusted the brakes on the Blurb again, I am starting to understand why the previous owner sold the truck, yesterday we swapped to a NOS throttle pedal (seems good so far), and this morning I adjusted the rear brakes up over 20 clicks on each side (yes that is a lot). I hope that they are finally seated and won’t need crazy amounts of adjustment again. I am getting really sick of these stupid problems, it is wearing me out.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
That manifold looks like start over time. You have the equipment, you could make one.
What engine is it? Waukesha?
What engine is it? Waukesha?
bulletpruf
Well-known member
20 clicks is a LOT; you should definitely notice a difference. Did you adjust them before or is this the first time you have adjusted them?
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Continentals were cold blooded. They need the heat for proper operation. A lot of them had a heat riser, too.
Have you tried these folks? Their website is shite, but any port in a storm.
Have you tried these folks? Their website is shite, but any port in a storm.
Products - Montes Equipment
Montes Equipment Company Incorporated specializes in obsolete and hard-to-find CONTINENTAL Industrial Engine Parts for the Continental Engine in your: BAKER FORKLIFT J.I CASE TRACTOR CATERPILLAR DOZER ClARK FORKLIFT HYSTER FORKLIFT INGERSOLL RAND COMPRESSOR INT’L FARMALL 350 LINCOLN WELDER...
montesequipment.com
Bulletpruf, I did adjust them once, but it was the day we got 4" of rain, then I had a trailer hooked up most of the time, so the trailer brakes hid the lack of adjustment. I had been gun-shy about tightening them too much, last time they got stuck, but it was because the shoes were reversed. I had just replaced the brakes, so I know they needed to seat in some.
Thanks Kay, I will give them a call.
Thanks Kay, I will give them a call.
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Ok, I have always adjusted drums out until they just start to drag. From there, it should just be a few more clicks out periodically.
Like I said, the shoes were on wrong before and it had been locking things up if you adjusted them too close, then you had to back things off completely and restart the process. My mechanic is a Ford guy and Fords have the rear brakes setup opposite, so he installed them wrong. At least they are right now, just hope that I can get the adjustment squared away. I plan on swapping to a disc brake axle soon enough, but I ned them to work, yesterday it felt like I had no brakes and the trailer was empty, so I really couldn't use its brakes without dragging the tires.
bulletpruf
Well-known member
As far as I know, the primary (short) shoe always goes towards the front, Ford, Shivverlay, or otherwise. But I've been wrong before.
As far as switching to a disk brake rear, that sure sounds like a lot of time and effort for not a lot of gain. Drum brakes are simple, easy and inexpensive to maintain. From my perspective, the only real drawback to drums is that they can collect water when driving in the rain and that they are more prone to overheat and fade than disk brakes.
For some reason, nothing was normal about this setup, it was absolutely wrong, except it was the way you would normally install them. Once they were reversed, I had an e-brake and the adjustment process was normal, well until they seated in, or so I hope. The worst part is the photo I have shows what looks like the long one to the rear, but it is thicker than the front shoe, we moved the thicker shoe to the front position and that was when we instantly got an e-brake and adjustments were not locking things up. I have been round and round with this rear, swapping to disc will allow my to upgrade a few things, plus I can use the wider track van rear and then I don't need wheel spacers. It is on the list of things to do......
My buddy has an old grader that has a 6cyl flathead Continental, he is looking for the manifold also. He has been looking for a few years with no luck.
bimmer1980
Well-known member
no wonder the exhaust manifold broke with that much pipe and muffler hanging from it!!
While in a perfect world you would take the manifold off to weld it, I would be really tempted to disconnect the radiator line and attempt to braze it while in situ. It would be tough to braze the back side tho.... But the least amount of invasion, the better, in my book......
I just think of the hassle of getting all those exhaust studs out and shiver a bit..... Maybe 86trbdiesel will have some insight -- winter vacation trip?? ;-)
While in a perfect world you would take the manifold off to weld it, I would be really tempted to disconnect the radiator line and attempt to braze it while in situ. It would be tough to braze the back side tho.... But the least amount of invasion, the better, in my book......
I just think of the hassle of getting all those exhaust studs out and shiver a bit..... Maybe 86trbdiesel will have some insight -- winter vacation trip?? ;-)
bulletpruf
Well-known member
@86turbodsl doesn't take winter vacations....that's Waste Oil Heater season, and his loyal fans have been counting down the days until the trials and tribulations begin again...
The exhaust had a rubber hanger, but in the dark, I some how hooked the exhaust on something and ripped the hanger off, then the exhaust broke off the flange, regardless, the deed is done. There is plenty of room to use the other style manifold and carb, it may actually be a better choice, I know they will be easier to find. The throttle linkage will be the hardest part.
On a good note, I found an entire steering axle for the Cat V80, should be able to get it delivered for about $1,300, that will solve the steering wonkiness, I figured we were going to have to pull apart the axle, then send everything to the machine shop to have them bore things out and make a busing so the kingpin would fit instead of flop. I may see what they would want for the valving to add another hydraulic circuit or two, then I could add side shift and something else later on. I doubt the shipping would be any different for the extra parts.
On a good note, I found an entire steering axle for the Cat V80, should be able to get it delivered for about $1,300, that will solve the steering wonkiness, I figured we were going to have to pull apart the axle, then send everything to the machine shop to have them bore things out and make a busing so the kingpin would fit instead of flop. I may see what they would want for the valving to add another hydraulic circuit or two, then I could add side shift and something else later on. I doubt the shipping would be any different for the extra parts.
xtremek
Well-known member
Ok, maybe I'm stupid, but I've never heard of one shoe being thicker than the other. And I agree with Bulletproof, short shoe always goes on the front, so I was taught. (Alright, I am stupid, but that's besides the point)
Well in this instance the normal rules do not seem to apply. We replaced everything, so it isn’t like something is stuck, the adjusters are in properly, it was all AC Delco parts too. If the short shoe is to the front ( on this setup) when you adjust the brakes up, if you spin the wheel backwards, the brakes lock the wheel up, the adjuster won’t even be tight, but you have to back it off to get them freed up. The front shoe is usually thicker because it does the initial work, back shoe is usually longer and thinner, but not with these. Even the old ones were those same way. The GM manual doesn’t speak about any of this either. This picture is of the wrong orientation and everyone that sees it thinks that it is correct, for some reason, not on this truck. The longer shoe is almost twice as thick, NAPA shoes were the same way. 
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
You sure you don't have a off side adjuster installed? Like maybe they're backwards? A disc brake conversion is less than $1K.
Lou's Garage
Well-known member
It does sound like the star wheels may be mixed up side to side. One side uses left hand threads, the other right hand. Make sure when you move the outside of the star wheel down, the adjuster expands the shoes. Otherwise, the shoes and all the mechanism looks correct. If you have a brake drum micrometer/gauge, measure the drum and set the shoes to that measurement. It's a good starting point and often requires no further adjustment.
Lou Manglass
Lou Manglass
They are correct, if you even tried to swap the left and the right, I am pretty sure they do not line up with the slots to get a tool in there. Besides that, to loosen the adjusters, you need to push on the lock, so I know they are in the proper orientation. This rear end is a little strange, it is a full float but the brakes are not captured, it is the first one of these that I have ever had, all the brake parts are the same according to GM, it basically has the 1 ton brake setup.
Kay, if I do a conversion, I still have a rear end that is 5" too narrow, if I swap to a super 70 from an express van I get that 5" of width without a wheel spacer. Then I use all GM parts, the front brakes are upgradable too, just need a couple junkyard parts and then I get the nicer GMT 800 brakes. I will have to use the brake booster from an old school 3500HD, where will I ever find one of those......
Monza Harry
Well-known member
Strouty that manifold is a 2 piece unit, typical inline arrangement, the stud/nuts do not look promising for removal though. If you could separate you could just build a tubular manifold for it if the search for a replacement ends up a fail.
That is the newer 14 bolt arrangement with that brake drum setup, I have heard of them, how prevalent they were/are I don't know. Too new for my budget. Harry
That is the newer 14 bolt arrangement with that brake drum setup, I have heard of them, how prevalent they were/are I don't know. Too new for my budget.
Harry
At least there was a bunch of nice copper, I ran out of daylight, so I will have to finish tomorrow. The dump truck is loaded, still have another load to go, one more small building and some random **** from around the site. Also have a load of scrap, probably can get that with the little dump trailer.
Didn’t do too much today, kind of wish I had been more motivated, I did just haul the 3500HD dump back from the tower site, going to take it to the dump in the morning. That truck needs some serious work, between the rusted cab, leaking roof or windshield, and I think it needs head gaskets and an injection pump, I don’t think I will be driving it much more. I have to get it back to the SG, then it can stay there until I figure things out. My plan is to find a rust free crew cab from down south, then rebuild the truck using the utility body from the green one. The dump body is slated for Bev, just your typical project at the SG.
xtremek
Well-known member
Hope you find some motivation tomorrow
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Its likely providing intake preheating.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Ha. There's a lot of truth in that statement. Doh
There is a butterfly valve or some sort of flap in there for sure.
I found motivation, just a lot later than expected. I have the Blurb loaded onto the Muv-All ready to go to the tower site, just need to strap it down and do a couple modifications to my new hitch assembly and then I should be ready to go, Midnight, here I come........
I found motivation, just a lot later than expected. I have the Blurb loaded onto the Muv-All ready to go to the tower site, just need to strap it down and do a couple modifications to my new hitch assembly and then I should be ready to go, Midnight, here I come........