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The welding table

adamsredlines

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So I picked up a plate of metal the other day, 4'x4', 1/2" thick and had it delivered, and also some 2.5" square tubing, 3/16 wall. Gonna make a frame out of the tubing thats 4'x3', then add legs and put the top on, and torch it to size. I think it'll be a good size for a home garage, and sturdy enough to do ANYTHING I want on it. I've got an extra vise that will go on it, and will probably get a big bolt to weld to it to use as a ground clamp. Any other ideas?

I picked up the plate, and 3 pieces of the tubing (12ft ea) for $120 delivered to my door, so I think I did pretty good. Finally get to put my chop saw to use and this will be my first real project with my Hobart. Should be fun :D
 
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TennesseeZ

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So I picked up a plate of metal the other day, 4'x4', 1/2" thick and had it delivered, and also some 2.5" square tubing, 3/16 wall. Gonna make a frame out of the tubing thats 4'x3', then add legs and put the top on, and torch it to size. I think it'll be a good size for a home garage, and sturdy enough to do ANYTHING I want on it. I've got an extra vise that will go on it, and will probably get a big bolt to weld to it to use as a ground clamp. Any other ideas?

I picked up the plate, and 3 pieces of the tubing (12ft ea) for $120 delivered to my door, so I think I did pretty good. Finally get to put my chop saw to use and this will be my first real project with my Hobart. Should be fun :D

You did good on that, ya think they'd deliver to East Tennessee?:)
 
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adamsredlines

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Boomer343

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I would leave a 2 inch lip all the way around so work can be clamped easily and the edge used as a guide.
Unless you are welding to the table or tacking your work to the table then a ground bolt isn't the best place to put the ground clamp. Clamp the ground to the actual piece rather than the table if possible.

Don't get carried away with welding the top to the supports, it isn't going to be subjected to dynamic loads or holding water.

Last but not least be carefull lifting that stuff or moving it around....as always your experience may vary....have fun.
 

NUTTSGT

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Unless you are welding to the table or tacking your work to the table then a ground bolt isn't the best place to put the ground clamp. Clamp the ground to the actual piece rather than the table if possible.

Last but not least be carefull lifting that stuff or moving it around....as always your experience may vary....have fun.

While the bolt may not be the optimal ground, at times it does work, especially on small projects that the ground will pull over. I'd add one but I'd put it underneath the table to keep it out of the working area when you use.


I'll agree to watch the back, fingers and toes when moving that steel around.

:beer:
 

BIG Eric

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A lot of folks use a receiver type hitch for the vise that way when you need the whole table top it can be easiely removed. I have seen it both verticlly and horizontally mounted.
 

Zeke

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I use the table to clamp the ground all the time and so does the college where I took classes. The school has it that way on every project.

I clamp to the work when it's not on a steel (or my mini copper sheet) surface.

However, a bolt is not the best idea. Too permanent. Depending on where you are on the work and where you position your welder, just clamp on the edge of the table or use a magnetic ground clamp base. If possible, the clamp should be between you and the work.
 

lotsoftools

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I think I would go with a grounding bolt underneath somewhere so it is out of the way most of the time. If you need to reposition the welder, then you could clamp to the table edge or the workpiece itself.
 

Ridge Runner

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I use the table to clamp the ground all the time and so does the college where I took classes. The school has it that way on every project.

I clamp to the work when it's not on a steel (or my mini copper sheet) surface.

Same here. We did a LOT of welding - MIG, TIG, and ICAR certifications - and never had a problem with that technique. Also, nothing wrong with 1/2" plate for your table top, but ours used probably 16-14 gauge tops and managed to stay in pretty good condition. Made the (3'x6' ?) tables a lot easier to move than if they were steel plate.
 
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adamsredlines

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Yep, I'm liking these ideas, grounding clamp is better than the bolt, and I'll do the hitch thing to put my vise on instead of bolting it to the table surface.

Keep the ideas coming :D
 

bad_idea

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Sounds like a fun project. If I were you, I would call around town to find a fab shop willing to sheer that plate for you to the dimensions you want. A lot cleaner edge from a sheer than a torch. As far as ground, sheer a 4" strip of that 1/2" plate and weld on edge down middle of table underside. Clamp the ground to it and it will also serve as a stiffener for the table top.
 
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adamsredlines

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So my current idea is a "drop leaf" style table, with the main table beinga 4'x2', and the drop leaf adding an additional foot making it a total of 4'x3'.

Local fab shop will charge $75 to shear the plate into those two sizes...does that sound right?

Any suggestions for some beefy *** hinges to achieve this?
 
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Ridge Runner

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Local fab shop will charge $75 to shear the plate into those two sizes...does that sound right?

Heavy duty sheers are expensive, but that still seems pretty up there. Last summer when I bought metal, the distributor only charged a few bucks to cut them to size. Granted, though, that was where I bought the metal. You might try finding a metal recycler/distributor in your area to see if they'll give you a better deal.
 

waggie

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My table is 4'x4'x1/2", identical to the plate you got. I left 4 inch over hang for clamping. I'd stick with 4x4, without cutting and doing all that hinge stuff. Unless you're really, really, really short on space, i wouldn't sacrifice the plate to save space.
 
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adamsredlines

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Unfortunately I am working with a two car garage so floor space is at a premium, I am trying to keep it so m Duster can still be parked inside.

If I had a shop, 4x4 for sure...but trying to make the most of what I have.
 

metalmagpie

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My suggestion is to wire up a 2-outlet box under the table, so you can plug in grinders without needing an extension cord. Beyond that I suggest a shelf underneath where you can store angle grinders. Between two legs should be light angle, leg up so you can hang clamps and more grinders from it. And build some beefy outboard supports that are easily adjustable around the height of your table, so you can handle that occasional twelve foot long workpiece.

metalmagpie
 

bad_idea

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$75 seems high to me! Look around town for a small shop that may do it on their lunch hour. If you were closer to me, I could drag it into work on my lunch and shear it in 5 minutes (taking my time).

My weld table is 4'x2' for the same space constraints as you. It has worked fine for me. I have intentions of adding a 2' leaf on the backside to use as a cut table. I have seen on this site a cut table a guy built into his table. My thoughts are I can use the cut table for cutting or for large work pieces.
 
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genesis

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Arizona
I do alot of square flat work so I welded 1" angle iron on one corner so I have a perfect square edge to clamp the work into.
Saves a TON of time.

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I also used reciever hitch for the bench grinder and vise.

I attached a couple of drawers underneath by tapping 1/4" x 20 holes from the bottom.

I have since installed recepts on all the legs to plug in grinders and what not.
 

cylis007

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Plano, Tx
I like the idea of the hitch mounted grinder and vise. I see that a lot on here and not just on welding tables. The angle iron idea is a great idea. I haven't seen that before, but I am not a welder.
 

genesis

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One thing to keep in mind, Harbor Freight has ATV hitches that the put on sale pretty cheap (7.99) from time to time.
 

marinusdees

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Edgewood, Washington
Put an outlet box on the table and hope your welder never looks at ground through this. It will definitely make smoke somewhere. Better yet, don't.
 

Always_Thinkin

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Illinois
Any desire to make it mobile? I don't think wheels on all four corners would be the best. I have seen some good ideas on here that slightly lift the table to wheel it around and then lower it so it is stable.
 

Bricen18

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PA
what about a back splash? there is one on our table at work. It may help contain some grinding sparks and dust. If you are having that company shear some stuff and you have enough material. i dont think it could hurt anything.

It could also keep tools from falling behind the table
 
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