The wet garage raise

[Lunker]

Just bend some aluminum and flash it on an angle where the siding hits the concrete

 

[jb3]

I have trouble with some spots of water intrusion in my garage, due to exactly this... the foundation sticking out too far and an inadequate flashing/drip edge.
I'd do #1 or something similar.

X2
I have a shed in my yard with a serious rot problem from an identical arrangement that happened pretty quick, if you have the material the concrete delay seems like a blessing in disguise to deal with this

Great thread! I am following with interest

 

[Sparkynutz]

I have tons of 2x4's left over. I just ripped one into strips 7/16 thick then ripped a 45 on end. Shouldn't take more than an hour to rip enough for whole garage and shoot it on with a staple gun.

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[jb3]

That will look great, end up being a nice detail

 

[Vintage Veloce]

That will be nice. I'm guessing the flat end on top, and the angle is at the bottom to blend with the stem wall?
Make sure it is tall enough. The drip edge might fall up to an inch down the outside wall, and the bottom edge of that should be well clear of the concrete so water doesn't creep back up the inside.

They put my garage back down without a drip edge, and I ended up pulling siding to add it back on. This one worked out on mine:
View media item 75971
This one the concrete stuck out too far and I ended up adding some height to the drip edge. You can see how I siliconed some extra metal below and under the original flashing
View media item 75972
I'm not saying this is the best way to do it, with "Z" drip edge flashing, it's just what I ended up with.

 

[Sparkynutz]

That will be nice. I'm guessing the flat end on top, and the angle is at the bottom to blend with the stem wall?
Make sure it is tall enough. The drip edge might fall up to an inch down the outside wall, and the bottom edge of that should be well clear of the concrete so water doesn't creep back up the inside.

They put my garage back down without a drip edge, and I ended up pulling siding to add it back on. This one worked out on mine:
View media item 75971
This one the concrete stuck out too far and I ended up adding some height to the drip edge. You can see how I siliconed some extra metal below and under the original flashing
View media item 75972
I'm not saying this is the best way to do it, with "Z" drip edge flashing, it's just what I ended up with.

On second thought a 2x4 might be cutting it a little close. I'll double check in morning. Flat side up bevel to bottom. The siding should have about 1-1/8" clearance.
I could put a little less angle on it too and get about 1-1/4" or just rip 2x4 in half then rip other way to gain 1/4" in hight. I'll post pics after its finished.

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[Sparkynutz]

Strips are done. .460 thick all planed then bevel ripped and made a bunch extra.

2 more calls to contractor. No answer, no call back yet. Not surprised. Called building inspector and asked if she needed to check anything before I pour and she said she was on her way to town and would be driving right past my house so she'd stop in. She liked how everything looked and said my forms and rebar was way overkill and should not have any problems. I told her I was having a hard time getting someone to pour. She recommended a local guy that I had been also recommended from a neighbor that I didn't have his number and wasn't listed online. She had his cell and left him a message with my contact info. Hopefully he calls back. My new basement egress window is being delivered tomorrow and I'll install what's left of the wood strips and I'll be ready for concrete. Kinda frustrated it took me longer than I'd hoped to get my end complete and it's supposed to freeze tonight. I hope it doesn't freeze after I pour or get cracks.

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[D45]

Best of luck to you, hope it works out!

 

[Sparkynutz]

Can't sleep feel like puking. My uncle talked to another concrete guy he knows and that guy refused to even look at it saying job wasn't worth the risk of my forms blowing out. He said tapcons and backfilling won't hold back the pressure. Looking at it now all my joints didn't turn out the way I anticipated. It's going to be much harder to fix on already installed forms but I definitely need to beef up the joints and add more stakes behind the outside. Tempted to run and get a bunch of threaded rod to put between inside and outside forms with whalers. I currently have none. Even if my forms didn't fail I learned what to do differently from start that's for sure. A little frustrated with the lack of input from first two contractors I thought would pour. I could have beefed things up correctly in the first place before installing and backfilling but I didn't know any better.

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[jb3]

That guy didn't even look at it. I would not go completely off a third party opinion from a guy who hasn't even looked at it in person. That sounds more like "that sounds like its not the way i would do it so it wont work" than anything else.

The general rule is that there is no one who knows more about your project than the person who heard about it in passing, hasn't seen it, and can tell you everything you've done wrong and everything you need to do.

this is what the building inspector, who has SEEN the project said to you, keep thinking back to that-

She liked how everything looked and said my forms and rebar was way overkill and should not have any problems.

 

[spudley]

How does he know the stoutness of the forms without looking at them? Your post 194 shows a pretty good build. I would however use more stakes on the outside with angled supports back into your yard. I'd also cross brace the inside forms from one wall to the other along the floor and angle brace these to the top of the forms.
I'd stay away from attaching anything to your lifting structure.
I'm not following his backfill concern.
You'll get through this.

 

[jb3]

How does he know the stoutness of the forms without looking at them? Your post 194 shows a pretty good build. I would however use more stakes on the outside with angled supports back into your yard. I'd also cross brace the inside forms from one wall to the other along the floor and angle brace these to the top of the forms.
I'd stay away from attaching anything to your lifting structure.
I'm not following his backfill concern.
You'll get through this.

x2, that is a very well built form that maybe a few braces could be added to, but it sure as hell isnt going anywhere.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Most outside 8 ft sections have 2 tapcons and 2 nails with wire into the slab my first form has more and the front row which my uncle helped with has only 2 tapcons per form and backfilled to the top almost. Digging the front out just to drill was almost impossible. When gravel was going in I asked my uncle to stop short of garage yet he pushed the 1.5" clear up way to close to it anyways so I had to dig it back out with shovel and kept caving in all the time. He said 2 tapcons was enough and he pushed the fill in against forms. I told him I was frustrated he didn't fill it with road gravel in the first place when I had asked he keep the clearstone back. I'd make him dig the forms out but he's having shoulder surgery next week. I hope the fill is enough to hold it because I don't think I have the time or patience to dig it out and fix it right now.
Inspector didn't look very close. Just saw lots of rebar and 2x6 forms plus it was already mostly backfilled.
My neighbor sees second contractor frequently and said he was going to give him a hard time for not atleast calling me back.
Contractor #3 from out of town just called and will be looking at it shortly. I hope he's decent and not booked solid like rest of guys for a reason. We'll. See.time to get at it.

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[Sparkynutz]

I get up, taking a leak and look out bathroom window and contractor #2 is outside looking at garage. I throw some pants on and walk out the door as contractor #3 pulls up. Awkward.... contractor #2 says you can have the job if you want it. Contractor #3 says I don't want the job. I don't do walls. I told him it was walls on my voice mail and when I talked to him on the phone. It was some young kid and he said he didn't have any helpers so he wouldn't be able to do it anyways.
I gave contractor #2. A hard time for not calling and he said if he called everybody back he wouldn't get any work done. Bad business but I know he does excellent work and hoping I can get him to follow through and pour it. Again he said he's behind and couldn't give me a definite day. He said it's kind of a waste to have all his guys here for only 3 hours he thought it would take. I said what about Saturday and I pay cash to whoever wants to work. He said he'll ask his guys but doubts they'll want to work Saturday. He looked over forms really well and told me to put more stakes and bracing in and not worry about whalers, where the form joints are. He said backfilling any more gravel wouldn't help much and just more for me to dig. He assured me the weather wasn't an issue that he pours walls all winter. He said call him when I'm totally done and he'll find out if the trucks are still going on Saturday. Stupid cold rainy **** today and I really don't feel like doing a damn thing. I'm slightly relieved and hope it all works out. He said driving concrete truck on my driveway is the only option. The ground is too wet to go in my or neighbors lawn and that the chute needs to be into garage atleast. If it cracks it cracks I guess. No other option and hope for the best.

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[matt_i]

I would buy some 2x2s and brace with those, keep the angle around a 45 deg. I would also tapcon some 2x4s to the old floor, parallel to your wall. Then can wedge a 2x2 stick in place, #10 torx drive/deck or RSS screw at top end, with a back-bevel ripped the bottom end should self-hold. I would brace it about every 3ft. Concrete work is rough on the forms.

 

[garagelogician]

Winter is coming, but I think you will have ample time to get him in there when it works for him. Pouring in the winter isn't a problem with the right means and methods.

I know this has been a stressful ordeal, but I think you'll get there and everything will work out well. It can be hard to get good contractors in small towns, and some of the resistance you are experiencing is probably because they don't want to accept any responsibility for the forms built by the homeowner. Formwork is where they make most of their profit, and they don't want to be held responsible if things go south.

You also have a unique situation, and some contractors hate dealing with unique situations unless they have control of everything and enough fluff built into their price to accept the risk associated.

Good luck and thanks for keeping us updated. We're pulling for you.

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[Vintage Veloce]

Are there guys with pumps in your area? Here the pump guys run the pour, meaning they schedule the truck delivery, etc. And there is no truck in the driveway, just a hose. At any rate, calling a pumper might be a new guy to try calling. A search for concrete pumping does bring up companies in Wisconsin...

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Because video of the pour is always fun:

That was yesterday.

 

[RSr]

just as an example, I called a small concrete pumping company for a quote to fill all the block on my 28x40 garage, 5 courses worth. They only operate a tow behind pump with flexible hose that lays on the ground (not one of the trucks with hydraulic booms that can go over houses). It was $480 bucks plus concrete and two guys will show up and fill the block and all I have to do is put the j bolts in when they finish.

 

[jb3]

I get up, taking a leak and look out bathroom window and contractor #2 is outside looking at garage. I throw some pants on and walk out the door as contractor #3 pulls up. Awkward.... contractor #2 says you can have the job if you want it. Contractor #3 says I don't want the job. I don't do walls. I told him it was walls on my voice mail and when I talked to him on the phone. It was some young kid and he said he didn't have any helpers so he wouldn't be able to do it anyways.
I gave contractor #2. A hard time for not calling and he said if he called everybody back he wouldn't get any work done. Bad business but I know he does excellent work and hoping I can get him to follow through and pour it. Again he said he's behind and couldn't give me a definite day. He said it's kind of a waste to have all his guys here for only 3 hours he thought it would take. I said what about Saturday and I pay cash to whoever wants to work. He said he'll ask his guys but doubts they'll want to work Saturday. He looked over forms really well and told me to put more stakes and bracing in and not worry about whalers, where the form joints are. He said backfilling any more gravel wouldn't help much and just more for me to dig. He assured me the weather wasn't an issue that he pours walls all winter. He said call him when I'm totally done and he'll find out if the trucks are still going on Saturday. Stupid cold rainy **** today and I really don't feel like doing a damn thing. I'm slightly relieved and hope it all works out. He said driving concrete truck on my driveway is the only option. The ground is too wet to go in my or neighbors lawn and that the chute needs to be into garage atleast. If it cracks it cracks I guess. No other option and hope for the best.

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Yikes you are getting a dose and a half of contractor drama. Contractor #2 has you back to where you were before, and im betting he will be hard to reach again because he doesnt want the job. What a pain in the rear

 

[sleek98]

Sounds like contractor #2 is just leading you along on the off chance a job gets delayed or he runs out of other stuff to do.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Sounds like contractor #2 is just leading you along on the off chance a job gets delayed or he runs out of other stuff to do.

Yup. But not much else I can do. I told him I'd get some guys and do it myself if I had the wheelbarrows and tools. He said he has 8 wheelbarrows and more than enough tools but recommended against it saying most help gets in the way more than does good that I'm better off waiting till he and his guys can pour it.

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[Lunker]

I'd do this with a pumper. I think the truck is going to crack your driveway then your going to have to repour that. And wouldn't a pump be quicker and require less labor? how will they get the concrete from wheel barrows into the forms by shovel.

Plus this guy is realistic but also kind of has an attitude from what your saying. Guys like that are hard to deal with. Its their way or the highway.

 

[Big Dad]

wow , what a big project !

I hope it ends up all good for you, I put a french drain around mine and I have zero water issues

 

[aka Larry]

I've never done this myself, so I may be over simplifying it, but it seems like with you, two helpers, a ********, and a pumper, could get this done. You obviously got the skills since you made it this far with virtually no issues.

What am I missing here?

 

[Sparkynutz]

I looked into a pump truck. I was told it was almost $2k more after extra wasted concrete to fill the hose and extra hours of setup. Most of the side driveway will be repoured 8 inches lower some day anyways because it's 6 inches higher now than my garage will be when finished. I'd rather spend that $2k on new driveway some day which would cover a pretty large chunk of that doing the flat work myself. Maybe if it cracks that will help decide where to cut it for transition lower. The truck would be driving on one square of my main driveway then straddling the side driveway and gravel next to it up to the garage. The square next to that one that he won't be driving on is over an inch low on the corner and cracked. Water sits there now. I might replace that square same time if other square cracks. My old driveway heaved close to 2 inches each winter and had lots of cracks all over. I lived there 15 years and had bigger worries than those cracks. Anything that happens won't matter as much as end result of having a higher dry garage to spend my time in.
If it doesn't crack this pour it might next pour when I do the slab next spring. 9 yards vs 6 yards.

My window showed up today and wife wanted heat turned on so I mounted it quick. The plywood I had over opening had pretty big gaps and room was darn cold. I'll finish trim and insulation after garage walls are done. It's sealed 100x better already.
Stupid rain. Muddy mess and 40+mph wind gusts sure is not helping my motivation today. Gotta work soon. I'll hit it hard tomorrow when it's nicer.

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[Lunker]

OK, I got it. Yeah, I would just have the truck drive on what you have now.

 

[sleek98]

man that picture looks amazing compared to the picture in the 1st post.

 

[rattle_snake]

Good luck with pour. Looks extremely stressful. You will get though it and be able to look back at the adventure.

 

[Hotrod1959]

Looking good so far.

 

[matt_i]

Some 1-1/2" to 3" gravel (rocks, eh? ) spread on the mud would give a concrete truck a fighting chance. They might tell you if they get stuck the recovery is on you...at least they do around here. That's probably 4 figures of money if the "big rig" comes out to rescue them. The large gravel, obviously less.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Yikes! $2k for a pumper! Concrete to fill the hose? What? The concrete itself is cheap.
Extra hours of setup? It's faster than most otherways, isn't it? Hey, just saying, that sounds strange.

Here in San Diego, (not a cheap place to build) I just yesterday paid about $730 for the pumper, plus the concrete truck with 3 cubic yards of 3/8" 3000 PSI specially colored concrete. I imagine more concrete would just be material cost.
This did not include finishing labor, but that would be the same, pumper or not. I would have thought in Wisconsin you could get a pumper for less than here.
On the other hand, a pumper might be unusual where you are... here almost every job uses it. So maybe that is the difference. Still if you are stuck inside during the weather, might be worth another call.

Edit: I just found my detailed receipt. The pumper itself was only $200. The rest of the $730 was related to the concrete and it's delivery.

 

[Tracs]

Yikes! $2k for a pumper! Concrete to fill the hose? What? The concrete itself is cheap.
Extra hours of setup? It's faster than most otherways, isn't it? Hey, just saying, that sounds strange.

Here in San Diego, (not a cheap place to build) I just yesterday paid about $730 for the pumper, plus the concrete truck with 3 cubic yards of 3/8" 3000 PSI specially colored concrete. I imagine more concrete would just be material cost.
This did not include finishing labor, but that would be the same, pumper or not. I would have thought in Wisconsin you could get a pumper for less than here.
On the other hand, a pumper might be unusual where you are... here almost every job uses it. So maybe that is the difference. Still if you are stuck inside during the weather, might be worth another call.

Edit: I just found my detailed receipt. The pumper itself was only $200. The rest of the $730 was related to the concrete and it's delivery.

^ This. Unfortunately you are getting the run around. Either you rubbed all these concrete guys the wrong way or they are just asses.

Sounds like no one wants to touch this thing.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Googling only came up with 2 companies not so local. I'll try calling them tomorrow and see what they say. Must not be common around here because every time I asked anybody I get the runaround that it's a bad idea.

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[wssix99]

^ This. Unfortunately you are getting the run around. Either you rubbed all these concrete guys the wrong way or they are just asses.

Sounds like no one wants to touch this thing.

It depends on where one is. If the location of the pour is such that the truck will take all day plus overtime (10 hours-ish) to drive to the site, do the pour, then drive home - then yes, it could cost $2000.

I recall we were paying $800 for a half day in the City. Usually the pumper was doing another job, in addition to ours, all in the same day.

A more local company could be all that's needed.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Here in San Diego, the pumper is a guy who owns a pump on a trailer connected to a pickup.You call the pumper and say, "I need to do a foundation, it's all formed up and ready to go. I need x cubic yards of <whatever spec> concrete. When can you here and how much?". The PUMPER arranges for the concrete truck and delivery. YOU provide the finishers. The pumper will hook up to the concrete truck and run his hose and equipment. He will put on his boots and man the hose and follow the direction of the finisher as to where to pump the concrete. The pumper may have referrals for finishers (the guys who massage the concrete and smooth it), but we have always provided our own. (It may all be different in Wisconsin.)
At any rate, I guess I am suggesting, don't call a concrete guy and ask about pumping, call a pumper.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I understand if you "can't" afford it, but there are times when you're better off to close your eyes to the price. I have little doubt this problem can be solved with money. Rather than asking when and if they're willing to do it at what price, try telling them exactly what you need and when you need it. Price is what it is.

After I spent over $10k to regrade my property (link) (200 yards of topsoil + 200 yards of driveway gravel + excavator/backhoe time) the scheduled hydroseeder's truck broke down and couldn't make it for at least a week maybe 2. Plenty of rain was in the upcoming forecast and I needed 15,000 sq.ft. of hydroseeding immediately to prevent erosion. I sent 5 emails to different hydroseeders that evening detailing what I needed and I needed it done tomorrow. Sure I paid a few hundred extra for on demand service, but the job got done (link) and I could sleep at night.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Must not matter in my area because talking with contractor #2 I said name your price. I want it poured by Saturday. He said it won't happen but will talk to his guys. Contractor #3 didnt want to help at any price. Contractor #4 and 5 never called back. Looking for excavator 2 months ago only place that answered laughed at me when I said I needed it done this year. I called 5 other places. Only 2 even called back. One of which is doing the soccer fields for highschool. They said they'd love to help but won't be till spring. Last guy came and looked at it but at the time it had dried out just enough that my uncle was able to use skid loader. He helped troubleshoot the skidloader when it was having electrical issues and gave me his sons number who trucked in 60 tons of gravel for me. I'll be getting rest of gravel from him. Possibly dirt too. It's just too wet to do any finish grading until it dries out. Probably next July the way it's been. I know I'll be over budget and spend what it takes to do it right within reason. If I could find on demand service garage would be back down now. Weather doesn't care how much money you have. If it's too wet it's just too wet.

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[Motoman1100]

Sparky, I feel your pain. Many years ago I had a remodel going and I could never get anybody to do the work. It wasn't big enough of a job so they didn't bother, and unfortunately, I hadn't ever done a project that seemed so big to me. I have to admit that it was the best education I had ever gotten. I finished that remodel and many more. I've built garages, additions, done electrical, plumbing, tile work, hardwood floors.... Now days the only thing I ever need is an estimate to inspire me to just do it myself.

The truth is that you may not have their help now, but you'll never need their help in the future. I love this thread and am impressed with your tenacity. We all know you'll get it done and remember we're rooting for you!

 

[RSr]

While you wait for the rain to stop its not a bad time to think about how you can help yourself out if no contractor ever comes through and you are forced to do it your self. You don't have a lot of room between the garage and the top of the forms so it would probably be nice to construct some sort of feed ramp to speed the process. Maybe you can get a skid loader again and have the truck load up the bucket with concrete and then dump it onto the ramp instead of messing with wheelbarrows and shovels. Also worthwhile seeing if your concrete companies can provide self consolidating concrete which would let you fill significantly more of the forms through the garage door opening since it will flow around corners better.

This design wont work for you where there are walls but maybe gives you some ideas.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CM4Kj1IUcAA5Vo3.jpg