The wet garage raise
- Thread starter Sparkynutz
- Start date
You said you are by Fond Du Lac right? I find it hard to believe you can't find anyone to do this from Oshkosh or Appleton.
Your area is tough. People aren't too agressive to work.
Maybe try calling the concrete suppliers to see if they know someone. I hate to say craigslist but could be another option
Your area is tough. People aren't too agressive to work.
Maybe try calling the concrete suppliers to see if they know someone. I hate to say craigslist but could be another option
Big Dad
Well-known member
I fought getting people to show up on every step of my garage
Lucky for me, we have a local small town lumber yard and they know everyone that is in those trades ..they helped me over and over getting people to show up ..
Maybe try that if you have one near
Lucky for me, we have a local small town lumber yard and they know everyone that is in those trades ..they helped me over and over getting people to show up ..
Maybe try that if you have one near
OP
Sparkynutz
Well-known member
I'm south of fondy. I've called everybody in the area and the contractor that building inspector called for me drove past real slow today. Think he'd stop or call me back. Nope.
I called the only 2 concrete pumping places listed for 50+ miles. One asked for pictures and hasn't got back to me and the other one said why didn't you call me 2 months ago. I have 2ft forms and woulda poured no problem for you. Now im too busy tho and not sure i want to take the chance on your forms. I'll get back to you next week.
Kinda late now. Made me want to puke. I never heard of the place, it's not even close to home and I've asked over and over on facebook etc any local guys that would pour it and all I get for answers is the same suggestions of places that refuse to call me back or show up do the work. Contractor #1.
It was cold as **** but warmed up decent. I got 2 of the 4 outside walls braced better. Tomorrow I'll do the other 2 outside and try and brace inside better.
Really depressing finding out I coulda just paid someone to do this that had the forms and avoided the cost, labor and now what to do with all that damn lumber when I'm done.
Time for work.
Tomorrow is another day.
Skid loader is at my house yet. Would make too much mess of Neighbors yards if I tried to use that to pour from outside. Ground is just too wet.
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I called the only 2 concrete pumping places listed for 50+ miles. One asked for pictures and hasn't got back to me and the other one said why didn't you call me 2 months ago. I have 2ft forms and woulda poured no problem for you. Now im too busy tho and not sure i want to take the chance on your forms. I'll get back to you next week.
Kinda late now. Made me want to puke. I never heard of the place, it's not even close to home and I've asked over and over on facebook etc any local guys that would pour it and all I get for answers is the same suggestions of places that refuse to call me back or show up do the work. Contractor #1.
It was cold as **** but warmed up decent. I got 2 of the 4 outside walls braced better. Tomorrow I'll do the other 2 outside and try and brace inside better.
Really depressing finding out I coulda just paid someone to do this that had the forms and avoided the cost, labor and now what to do with all that damn lumber when I'm done.
Time for work.
Tomorrow is another day.
Skid loader is at my house yet. Would make too much mess of Neighbors yards if I tried to use that to pour from outside. Ground is just too wet.
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Big Dad
Well-known member
chin up and keep asking people if they know someone ..
I made 100 calls over the course of 8 months finding people , its not for the faint of heart
try craigslist in the service area, found my sheet rock guy there and it turned out great
I made 100 calls over the course of 8 months finding people , its not for the faint of heart
try craigslist in the service area, found my sheet rock guy there and it turned out great
Big Dad
Well-known member
one idea ..
Call my buddy Chris , he knows everyone near that area
Tell him Daryl told you to reach out , he might know someone, he just built a new shop .. Good guy
http://hnhrodshop.com/contact/
Call my buddy Chris , he knows everyone near that area
Tell him Daryl told you to reach out , he might know someone, he just built a new shop .. Good guy
http://hnhrodshop.com/contact/
Vintage Veloce
Well-known member
Don't let people who "coulda, woulda, shoulda" get in your head, especially when they aren't showing up and working! Samr for comments from the Internet, don't let us stand in your way. Everyone has a free opinion.
One tactic I've used with getting people to show up is to go and meet the guy, and pay him something modest (Maybe $100), by check, up front. Often good people feel obligated to show if you have paid something. But I would only do this with a place with a real business, who seems very reputable. I probably wouldn't do that with a small pumper. But I probably wouldn't hesitate with a big concrete yard.
One tactic I've used with getting people to show up is to go and meet the guy, and pay him something modest (Maybe $100), by check, up front. Often good people feel obligated to show if you have paid something. But I would only do this with a place with a real business, who seems very reputable. I probably wouldn't do that with a small pumper. But I probably wouldn't hesitate with a big concrete yard.
wssix99
Well-known member
I think this is what is working against you. Some other things to try:
- A conveyor truck.
- Try a foundation company. They may own their own pumping trailers. (Again, these are just fine for ground-level work. No need to go for the overkill of a full-size pumping truck.)
- Take two 20' 2X12's and screw them together in a "V". Use some lumber and build trestles and more chutes inside the garage. The cost of this wood plus guys with shovels to move the concrete in the chute should be less expensive than a pump truck, anyway.
OP
Sparkynutz
Well-known member
I was planning on making some small plywood chutes but a 2x12 v is a great idea. Only 2 things scare me. How easily will the concrete flow on it and how much weight? More than likely it would be resting on top of my garage cross braces. I could maybe line it with plastic cheeting to make it glide better. Another idea I just came up with is cut some pvc pipe in half and pour into that? I'll look around see what I can come up with.
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highflier
Active member
I haven't read every post, so you may already know this...I would rent a concrete buggy.
It's basically a self propelled 'wheelbarrow', typically they hold 1/2 yard concrete.
They move pretty quick.
Available at most larger rental yards
Should be able to run up and down your drive easily.
If you haven't already, If you have a concrete on demand company in your area, try calling them and asking for contact info for guys they know that can work concrete.
Unlike big concrete operations, on demand guys work with much smaller contractors or even solo finishers.
Not many concrete contractors are willing to run concrete via wheelbarrow.
It is seriously slow and hard on the guys, very hard.
Do not underestimate how hard shlepping wheelbarrow of concrete is.
I'm sure you've already tried, but see if you can lobby #2 with providing a buggy, breakfast, lunch, dinner, whatever you can to entice them the job won't be a rough go.
Ask him point blank, what can I do to get this where you will do it.
Sell, sell, sell
I build a decent amount.
I know anytime work is hopping, guys have no interest in working really hard jobs, it's human nature.
Even name your price is not enough (as you mentioned).
That he wouldn't name a price, to me, shows he's a decent guy and isn't going to just gouge you to make a nice payday.
Good luck, you'll get there
It's basically a self propelled 'wheelbarrow', typically they hold 1/2 yard concrete.
They move pretty quick.
Available at most larger rental yards
Should be able to run up and down your drive easily.
If you haven't already, If you have a concrete on demand company in your area, try calling them and asking for contact info for guys they know that can work concrete.
Unlike big concrete operations, on demand guys work with much smaller contractors or even solo finishers.
Not many concrete contractors are willing to run concrete via wheelbarrow.
It is seriously slow and hard on the guys, very hard.
Do not underestimate how hard shlepping wheelbarrow of concrete is.
I'm sure you've already tried, but see if you can lobby #2 with providing a buggy, breakfast, lunch, dinner, whatever you can to entice them the job won't be a rough go.
Ask him point blank, what can I do to get this where you will do it.
Sell, sell, sell
I build a decent amount.
I know anytime work is hopping, guys have no interest in working really hard jobs, it's human nature.
Even name your price is not enough (as you mentioned).
That he wouldn't name a price, to me, shows he's a decent guy and isn't going to just gouge you to make a nice payday.
Good luck, you'll get there
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m32825
Well-known member
What about those trucks that carry all the ingredients and mix on demand? Sorry, don't know what they are called. We had a big landing and set of steps we wanted poured indoors. I was sure this was going to involved a bunch of wheelbarrow work, but the concrete guy called one of those trucks. It came with the hose and pump. He dragged 30' or so of hose right over to the form and filled it up. Might work for your wall forms, too?
This is an awe inspiring thread. Keep up the good work, you have a lot of people rooting for you!
-- Carl
This is an awe inspiring thread. Keep up the good work, you have a lot of people rooting for you!
-- Carl
wssix99
Well-known member
The more people you have with shovels, moving the concrete down the chute, the easier it flows! It flows fine, but like any chute, you need slope for fast flow. Because of the length, you wouldn't get that. So, you'll need people to "walk" the concrete down the chute with shovels.
This is how we poured the far corners of our 30X40 garage slab, and it worked fine.
I'd build up some separate supports (that rest directly on the slab) so this doesn't happen. The last thing you'd want is to stress those braces out. Maybe it would work well if you had one semi-stationary chute running to the middle of the room and then a shorter, more mobile, chute that you could turn around from that center point to the walls? (Truck drops into a long stationary chute. That chute drops into a short movable chute that you turn around to the points you are feeding into the walls.)
Come to think of if, we may have done this. I can't remember. Good idea.
This is crazy expensive. You don't want to know how expensive this pipe is; in a size that would be close to a 2X12 chute.
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Google "Concrete Conveyor Rental".
TractorJeff
Well-known member
Concrete Trucks and Wet Ground don't Mix!
I've seen them try to pull onto "dry looking" lawns only to sink down the depth of the tires. I've also seen them trying to drive into "parking lots" only to ride across washboard blacktop, then settle down as the Mixer is rotating.
Some Companies won't even let you hook a Dump Truck on to pull them out as they are afraid of damage!
There is a pour occurring near here in the next 2 days, it will be interesting to see the Concrete Truck going in the 9 month old driveway after all the rain down here!
I've seen them try to pull onto "dry looking" lawns only to sink down the depth of the tires. I've also seen them trying to drive into "parking lots" only to ride across washboard blacktop, then settle down as the Mixer is rotating.
Some Companies won't even let you hook a Dump Truck on to pull them out as they are afraid of damage!
There is a pour occurring near here in the next 2 days, it will be interesting to see the Concrete Truck going in the 9 month old driveway after all the rain down here!
roscoe2000
Well-known member
bump
matt_i
Well-known member
I see a couple of options. I would ixnay all "professionals" since they can't take this job on and put the stress of worrying about it into planning for action.
I would certainly pour it myself (and a couple helpers) with the aid of a pump truck. Need someone to screed, someone to handle the ********, really good wide marks or cuts for the anchor bolts, and some mag trowels to finish at the end. Need to plan for approx 1 yard of leftover concrete that's going out on the ground somewhere. It CAN be repurposed if you plan correctly and are ready to jump on placing it when the truck cleans out the tube and its hopper. The truck costs more but saves you paid workers. I assume you could round up some helpers for food + beers.
You could save some money with a powered buggy...BUT, you need a really good system to funnel the crete into the form. When the buggy first tips over from full there's a huge wash of mud that's hard to meter and hard to control, its splashing all over and you can't aim it at the 6" gap in the form and expect more than 50% of it to go in. Definitely need a plywood backer and a plywood front-funnel that's moveable. It ends up being a lot of work and stress over wasted crete that over runs the forms.
If the requirement were to use a wheelbarrow I'd do it with a drum mixer and bags of cement and a couple months of Sundays. If you've been behind one, loaded, you'll know that 1 wheelbarrow of concrete is no fun...think about doing it 20, 50 times...
One last thing...have you contacted your local ready mix yard for questions about contractors and pumpers? I found mine to be the absolutely most helpful resource. They knew the "concrete community" inside and out and gave me contacts for some very good guys that weren't dirt cheap but were fair priced and bottom line did excellent work. Guys that I would definitely hire again in the future.
I would certainly pour it myself (and a couple helpers) with the aid of a pump truck. Need someone to screed, someone to handle the ********, really good wide marks or cuts for the anchor bolts, and some mag trowels to finish at the end. Need to plan for approx 1 yard of leftover concrete that's going out on the ground somewhere. It CAN be repurposed if you plan correctly and are ready to jump on placing it when the truck cleans out the tube and its hopper. The truck costs more but saves you paid workers. I assume you could round up some helpers for food + beers.
You could save some money with a powered buggy...BUT, you need a really good system to funnel the crete into the form. When the buggy first tips over from full there's a huge wash of mud that's hard to meter and hard to control, its splashing all over and you can't aim it at the 6" gap in the form and expect more than 50% of it to go in. Definitely need a plywood backer and a plywood front-funnel that's moveable. It ends up being a lot of work and stress over wasted crete that over runs the forms.
If the requirement were to use a wheelbarrow I'd do it with a drum mixer and bags of cement and a couple months of Sundays. If you've been behind one, loaded, you'll know that 1 wheelbarrow of concrete is no fun...think about doing it 20, 50 times...
One last thing...have you contacted your local ready mix yard for questions about contractors and pumpers? I found mine to be the absolutely most helpful resource. They knew the "concrete community" inside and out and gave me contacts for some very good guys that weren't dirt cheap but were fair priced and bottom line did excellent work. Guys that I would definitely hire again in the future.
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Vintage Veloce
Well-known member
Here the pumper brings and fills a barrel or two with water. After the concrete is delivered, he pumps the water to clean out his pump and pumps that excess concrete and water BACK INTO THE TRUCK. The concrete company disposes of it for a very modest charge. There is no extra or waste concrete left at the site.
But again, this could be a regional thing. San Diego and California is VERY strict about runoff and pollution from construction sites.
The only extra mess is the first burst of water/watery concrete that comes from the hose. They directed that into a pre-made pile of dirt we had ready for it. After filling the forms, the pumper left the finisher a small pile (5-10 gallons) off to the side for touchup work. So I am left a small spot of hardened concrete to dispose of.
Vintage Veloce
Well-known member
FWIW, here are the charges for pumping delivery and concrete here in SD from this past Monday.
View media item 76149
View media item 76149
OP
Sparkynutz
Well-known member
Guy from one of the only two pump places in the area called me back today. Its just not common in my area. He said I could rent one pump and do myself but the concrete could only have pea gravel in it no bigger. That costs $800 and he didn't have that pump. The next option started at $1100 to pump regular concrete. He said with it being so far away with everybody too busy to take such a small job I'd be better doing it myself. The $800 option he recommended was the pump his competitor had that was the other of the two I called. He called him and gave them my number which they already had along with pictures and still haven't called me back. I'd rather not have pea gravel walls that won't be as strong as regular concrete with full size aggregate. Pumping will also require it be wetter which creates more pressure on forms and greater chance for blowout.
Today I got rest of bracing done, banding across the top, and another load of gravel put down so truck can just drive up to the garage.
Each wall holds approximately 1.3 yards of concrete or roughly 400 shovels full per wall.
4 guys shoveling 100 shovels each averaging a shovel full every 15 seconds would take 25 minutes to shovel.
The side walls should be reachable and flow somewhat.
So even if we wheelbarrow and shovel it should take around 2 hours to fill maybe another hour to finish. I left a message that I'm ready to pour. Won't hold my breath but hoping for the best contractor comes through and gets this poured asap. He has a conveyor and elephant trunk thing he wasn't worried about pouring at all doing much more difficult pours than this all the time. I was tempted to order an extra yard just incase but I have nowhere that I could form up until the garage is done and ground is graded, settled, and compacted.
The good news is I get a much needed break this weekend if it's not poured. If it is poured Saturday as I'd hoped it still won't be as much work as lately getting all this ready and be done pretty early in the day.
Kids are trick or treating Saturday and spend some time with family for once.
Here's a video update-
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Today I got rest of bracing done, banding across the top, and another load of gravel put down so truck can just drive up to the garage.
Each wall holds approximately 1.3 yards of concrete or roughly 400 shovels full per wall.
4 guys shoveling 100 shovels each averaging a shovel full every 15 seconds would take 25 minutes to shovel.
The side walls should be reachable and flow somewhat.
So even if we wheelbarrow and shovel it should take around 2 hours to fill maybe another hour to finish. I left a message that I'm ready to pour. Won't hold my breath but hoping for the best contractor comes through and gets this poured asap. He has a conveyor and elephant trunk thing he wasn't worried about pouring at all doing much more difficult pours than this all the time. I was tempted to order an extra yard just incase but I have nowhere that I could form up until the garage is done and ground is graded, settled, and compacted.
The good news is I get a much needed break this weekend if it's not poured. If it is poured Saturday as I'd hoped it still won't be as much work as lately getting all this ready and be done pretty early in the day.
Kids are trick or treating Saturday and spend some time with family for once.
Here's a video update-
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1949 caddyman
Well-known member
If you get too much mix have them drop it in 1’diameter piles. They will be easier to dispose of than one large slab to break up. We did this on a driveway at my shop.
OP
Sparkynutz
Well-known member
I'll probably form up some squares and use for patio blocks or something. Better than completely wasting it. Maybe pour a small triangle at end of driveway where I always went into grass with trailer. Probably crack and get crappy with little to no gravel and pour 2-3" thick but better than mud all the time.
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highflier
Active member
Fwiw, if you order too much they will simply take it back to their yard.
You pay for it, but you don't have to dump it at your job.
Pretty standard.
Always order a little extra, you do not want a cold joint.
You pay for it, but you don't have to dump it at your job.
Pretty standard.
Always order a little extra, you do not want a cold joint.
Vintage Veloce
Well-known member
I don't know much, but those forms look great to me!
wasfast
Well-known member
I'm sympathetic to your troubles with getting the concrete in. I'd concur that using a line pump is the best option but for structural stem walls, I'd shy away from using the pea gravel aggregate and wet mix. The resulting psi will not be great.
garagelogician
Well-known member
Just watched your video. You've really done an incredible job and you should be proud of the progress you've made so far. Keep up the good work.
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Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Sparkynutz - You're definitely ready to rock and roll! 
That got me thinking about the 2 story garage I'm planning. 3 bays up + 3 bays down with wood floor deck between them. It is actually possible to have done this garage raise entirely with wood. Concrete is certainly a better way to go in this wet location circumstance, but alternate methods like building the foundation walls entirely with 6x6 PT then covering exterior with water resistant membrane are viable. Then making the raised floor with whatever sized beams are necessary to support the load.Those forms are walls. They could pack 4 of those garages on top of them!
TractorJeff
Well-known member
AH!
6x6 PT Foundation Walls would "probably" never make it past the local Building Inspector!
If it was a Farm building in a no-regulated Township, then you might get away with it!
6x6 PT Foundation Walls would "probably" never make it past the local Building Inspector!
If it was a Farm building in a no-regulated Township, then you might get away with it!
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Building inspectors.... ugh.
Makes you wonder why the building inspectors allowed the garage to be built so low originally... if they had been on the ball Sparky wouldn't be going through all this today.
Never rely on a building inspector to make sure anything is done right.
Makes you wonder why the building inspectors allowed the garage to be built so low originally... if they had been on the ball Sparky wouldn't be going through all this today.
Never rely on a building inspector to make sure anything is done right.
aka Larry
Well-known member
Ditto. Hopefully you can finally get the concrete and move on with your project. Those forms look damn good to me.
OP
Sparkynutz
Well-known member
Thanks everyone!
I spent the day cleaning up and putting tools away. I called concrete guy and left another message asking if he looked into saturday truck and pour like he said he would. If I don't hear back soon my uncle said just go to his shop and grab wheelbarrows and whatever else I can find and start getting guys lined up to do it ourselves and pick a day.
My Grandpa just passed away this morning and funeral is Wednesday. Not sure if that will help or hinder the project yet. He had no quality of life and was basically a vegetable. I'm sad he went but also relieved he's no longer suffering living like that.
I feel bad for my grandma who is still mostly there but body is very frail. I have a feeling she won't be far behind.
I asked building inspector a bunch of times and even got copies of all documentation of when garage was built. She said everything was to code and questioned him why not higher but had no code violation to deny it. After me looking into it one code is drainage between dwellings and didn't have proper drainage away from the neighbors house because when garage was built it had nowhere for water to go.
There should have been a swale or pitch according to code but pretty grey in interpretation from what I gathered from it.
I intend on having the grade as it should have been from the start. Away from my garage AND the neighbors house. That requires dirt and grading in their yard too but it's a small price to pay to do it right and keep both of us happy.
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I spent the day cleaning up and putting tools away. I called concrete guy and left another message asking if he looked into saturday truck and pour like he said he would. If I don't hear back soon my uncle said just go to his shop and grab wheelbarrows and whatever else I can find and start getting guys lined up to do it ourselves and pick a day.
My Grandpa just passed away this morning and funeral is Wednesday. Not sure if that will help or hinder the project yet. He had no quality of life and was basically a vegetable. I'm sad he went but also relieved he's no longer suffering living like that.
I feel bad for my grandma who is still mostly there but body is very frail. I have a feeling she won't be far behind.
I asked building inspector a bunch of times and even got copies of all documentation of when garage was built. She said everything was to code and questioned him why not higher but had no code violation to deny it. After me looking into it one code is drainage between dwellings and didn't have proper drainage away from the neighbors house because when garage was built it had nowhere for water to go.
There should have been a swale or pitch according to code but pretty grey in interpretation from what I gathered from it.
I intend on having the grade as it should have been from the start. Away from my garage AND the neighbors house. That requires dirt and grading in their yard too but it's a small price to pay to do it right and keep both of us happy.
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Things are not deck screws, drywall screws, or regular wood screws. None of those are allowed in residential framing where I live. These are structural screws that are up to code. A 1/4" typically has the shear of a 3/8" lag screw. With two of these on each stud there will be no problem.
OP
Sparkynutz
Well-known member
I went to bed early last night and wide awake early. Perfect opportunity to get laser level out when I can see the lines and check forms out. I put dewalt auto level in front of garage and checked points all around. According to that back side was 5/8" lower than front. This confuses me because I have 1/4" shim under back wall form I measured and no shim under front wall so if floor was close to level that would mean it's almost an inch off. I doubt that.
I moved level to back wall and still got 5/8" lower than front wall.
I checked all around floor and the corner that I'm 90% sure is low because it was always wet every time it rained showed it was 1/4" higher than most of other spots I checked.
Using a 4ft level all my forms look level with forms next to it as well as level from inside form to outside form.
I've measured driveway slab multiple times with laser and water level getting different results.
Very first measurement was 21" above garage slab. Second measurement was 31"above garage slab and my new measurement was 28" above garage slab.
My long distance measuring skills **** as you can tell.
The good news is the garage forms are close enough together that I can get my water level will reach all of them at same time to get a better idea if level or not.
It probably doesn't matter that much because garage sat just fine with one side higher than the other by 2+ inches with no problems. As long as it's level and plumb enough for the garage doors is all that really matters.
I started a new topic asking about garage door install with no responses yet so I'll mention it here to hopefully get some input before my pour when changes would be too late.
With my current garage project I figured it was a good time to add a garage door on the side wall. I live on a corner and would like to eventually put a driveway from street across my backyard to it.
Until now I've only used 16ft wide garage doors and parking my truck in the standard 9ft wide x7ft tall door on my new house attatched garage is more nerve racking than I'd like so I plan on putting in a 10ft wide door for quicker parking and easier drive through to 16ft door on end wall.
While I'm at it I figured I'd try and future proof and also as a selling point some day put in a taller door. A friend of mine complains all the time that his lifted truck won't fit in his garage. An extra foot taller door would make a world of difference for many reasons.
Ceiling is currently unfinished but will eventually get some type of covering and blow in insulation.
Sill bottom to roof truss bottom is 109-1/4"
Sill bottom to soffet is 98-5/8"
10ft wide x 8ft (96" R.O.) tall garage door
I will be using the 11-3/4 " x 24' LVL beams as a header.
Should I rip beam to get proper 96" height or should I remove bottom 2x4 of double top plate and leave beam as is or just leave both as is and just lose 1.5" rough opening size.
Also kinds wondering if two jack studs per side is enough support?
My other doors have 2x6 face nailed to that to mount the tracks and springs.
I'm thinking maybe use my 2x10's instead and run top 2x10 past to the next stud which would also transfer some of the weight. Drywalling will be a bit of challenge tho.
Here's a few pics
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I moved level to back wall and still got 5/8" lower than front wall.
I checked all around floor and the corner that I'm 90% sure is low because it was always wet every time it rained showed it was 1/4" higher than most of other spots I checked.
Using a 4ft level all my forms look level with forms next to it as well as level from inside form to outside form.
I've measured driveway slab multiple times with laser and water level getting different results.
Very first measurement was 21" above garage slab. Second measurement was 31"above garage slab and my new measurement was 28" above garage slab.
My long distance measuring skills **** as you can tell.
The good news is the garage forms are close enough together that I can get my water level will reach all of them at same time to get a better idea if level or not.
It probably doesn't matter that much because garage sat just fine with one side higher than the other by 2+ inches with no problems. As long as it's level and plumb enough for the garage doors is all that really matters.
I started a new topic asking about garage door install with no responses yet so I'll mention it here to hopefully get some input before my pour when changes would be too late.
With my current garage project I figured it was a good time to add a garage door on the side wall. I live on a corner and would like to eventually put a driveway from street across my backyard to it.
Until now I've only used 16ft wide garage doors and parking my truck in the standard 9ft wide x7ft tall door on my new house attatched garage is more nerve racking than I'd like so I plan on putting in a 10ft wide door for quicker parking and easier drive through to 16ft door on end wall.
While I'm at it I figured I'd try and future proof and also as a selling point some day put in a taller door. A friend of mine complains all the time that his lifted truck won't fit in his garage. An extra foot taller door would make a world of difference for many reasons.
Ceiling is currently unfinished but will eventually get some type of covering and blow in insulation.
Sill bottom to roof truss bottom is 109-1/4"
Sill bottom to soffet is 98-5/8"
10ft wide x 8ft (96" R.O.) tall garage door
I will be using the 11-3/4 " x 24' LVL beams as a header.
Should I rip beam to get proper 96" height or should I remove bottom 2x4 of double top plate and leave beam as is or just leave both as is and just lose 1.5" rough opening size.
Also kinds wondering if two jack studs per side is enough support?
My other doors have 2x6 face nailed to that to mount the tracks and springs.
I'm thinking maybe use my 2x10's instead and run top 2x10 past to the next stud which would also transfer some of the weight. Drywalling will be a bit of challenge tho.
Here's a few pics
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Stupid idea... Call your local community college and see if they have students that do concrete or are in such a program to provide labor. Call a truck in and start wheel barrowing. I'd give up on contractors at this point.
A few buddies of mine are concrete guys that work in a union as well as private companies. Only thing lacking is use of major equipment.
A few buddies of mine are concrete guys that work in a union as well as private companies. Only thing lacking is use of major equipment.
D45
Well-known member
^^^^^^This
It is pathetic that no one wants the job
When I wanted my driveway demo'd and redone, a new front porch, and some other concrete work done I called 6-7 places...........and only one came out
Thankfully, the one that did come out did a GREAT JOB
If I didn't have to work, I would come out for a day just to get this done......I suggest doing it yourself at this point. Wheel barrows, friends, and beer.........good memories with this project
It is pathetic that no one wants the job
When I wanted my driveway demo'd and redone, a new front porch, and some other concrete work done I called 6-7 places...........and only one came out
Thankfully, the one that did come out did a GREAT JOB
If I didn't have to work, I would come out for a day just to get this done......I suggest doing it yourself at this point. Wheel barrows, friends, and beer.........good memories with this project
MagKarl
Well-known member
You can do it with a couple helpers and wheelbarrows.
No it won't be easy, but you can do it.
Save the pump money and gain the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
No it won't be easy, but you can do it.
Save the pump money and gain the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Vintage Veloce
Well-known member
Test your laser level! It's critical it be right for stuff like this. I've had two that weren't really level! They were fine for hanging a picture, but way out over longer measurements. Do three quick tests:
1) Test that the beam doesn't rise: Set up two posts far apart, maybe 20 feet. Shoot from right behind post A at the other post (B) 20 feet away. Then do the reverse, shoot from right behind post B at post A. Confirm the marks line up. If they don't line up, your beam rises (or falls) as it gets further from the emitter.
2) Find a long wall and from one end of the wall shoot along the wall. Then go to the other end and shoot back. Again, the lines should be the same.
3) Shot all the way around the walls of a room. The ends of the beams should line up once you wrap all the way around. (tests basic levelness.)
More detailed profession directions here (but I think the above works for a quick check): https://lasers.leica-geosystems.com/blog/line-and-dot-lasers-checking-accuracy
1) Test that the beam doesn't rise: Set up two posts far apart, maybe 20 feet. Shoot from right behind post A at the other post (B) 20 feet away. Then do the reverse, shoot from right behind post B at post A. Confirm the marks line up. If they don't line up, your beam rises (or falls) as it gets further from the emitter.
2) Find a long wall and from one end of the wall shoot along the wall. Then go to the other end and shoot back. Again, the lines should be the same.
3) Shot all the way around the walls of a room. The ends of the beams should line up once you wrap all the way around. (tests basic levelness.)
More detailed profession directions here (but I think the above works for a quick check): https://lasers.leica-geosystems.com/blog/line-and-dot-lasers-checking-accuracy
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Vintage Veloce
Well-known member
I may be confused...This will be a second roll up door on the same building?
Is that is true, it becomes especially important to install shear walls or something like Simpson "strong walls". That isn't very hard though, just box up the adjoining inside with plywood and properly fasten, I think.
On the height, once you are above the "standard" 7 feet, every inch is useful, but no particular size matters until you get much higher (RV height). I mean, there is no standard maximum height for lifted vehicles.
Is that is true, it becomes especially important to install shear walls or something like Simpson "strong walls". That isn't very hard though, just box up the adjoining inside with plywood and properly fasten, I think.
On the height, once you are above the "standard" 7 feet, every inch is useful, but no particular size matters until you get much higher (RV height). I mean, there is no standard maximum height for lifted vehicles.