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The wet garage raise

racin72charger

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Wow great thread and an awesome job on your project, makes me appreciate my virtually hiccup free build on my shop. I don’t know what I would have done if I was faced with the issues you’ve overcome. I look forward to seeing your finished product.
 
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Sparkynutz

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Concrete ordered. 730am Saturday morning. 11.5 yards 2 trucks 20 minutes apart.
4500 psi or 6.5 bag mix
10% ash
4 inch slump
Half air

Asked about accelerator and they said I can call and have it added up to 2 hours before the trucks go out so I'll wait until friday when weather forecast should have less room for error.
A lot more pricey than anticipated but oh well. $1706 and change after tax from Carew
Dodge quote was a little more than that.
Concrete was cheaper but Saturday charge was much higher.

Trying to find some decent videos of concrete with drains is harder than I thought. Hopefully my wife takes good video of ours. We cant possibly do as bad as some of the videos showed.

My buddy is nervous having not done concrete with any of these guys and would have done things different than my uncle but said it shouldn't matter as long as my uncle gets everyone on same page and work together.
With wall pour as indication I'm going to step it up and lead as much as I can instead of being too focused on doing the work myself. I put more ties on the rebar in spots we missed and used the plastic chairs around the edges. It actually didnt look too high. I plan on sneaking them in to do rest of rebar as we pour and finish wheeling the back.
Hopefully it goes smooth and maybe I'll get some decent sleep Saturday night. My stomach has been rolling I'm so worked up.
Tomorrow I plan on getting some heaters mounted and ready on the walls to help keep it warm enough over night.



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Vintage Veloce

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I really wish I had the opportunity to do my concrete again. You said:
I'm going to step it up and lead as much as I can
Do THAT! This only happens once, make sure they all do what you want. You can apologize later. Actually, apologize before hand and let people know you are a bit stressed but you want it done "your way".
Get everything you can out of the way before hand and if you can get enough help spend ALL your time directing. It's a big job and if you get distracted doing part yourself, something will happen behind you that you may not be happy with.
 

Vintage Veloce

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I love this guy, he does good work and I like these comments about his standards. He just posted a new video about concrete work.
 
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Sparkynutz

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I love this guy, he does good work and I like these comments about his standards. He just posted a new video about concrete work.
Thanks for the link. Very good video and I have watched a few of his before. Very eloquent fellow with a great voice too.

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RickP

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I'm sure all that grading was a ton of work, but it looks like it really paid off for you in the photos of the finished yard. I had a similar situation with my neighbor at an old house and I feel your pain...

Nice job on the gravel and foam in the garage. Even though it's not perfect, you're the only one who will ever know, and the thicker concrete will be stronger anyway. Good luck with the pour!
 
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Sparkynutz

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Just called in to get NCA added. Its gonna be cold. I was hoping weather man was wrong but didnt pan out.
I asked for 1% which is what I seen listed a few places online but mix guy suggested 1/2% so that's what I got.
I went over rebar one more time and added a bunch more ties. Hooked up 2x 1500 watt electric heaters and my 5k watt 220v heater on opposite side. Even with open ceiling after an hour running them
temp of rebar and foam was up 10* checked with laser temp gun.
Once floor is hard enough to put a ladder on without risk I plan on just stapling some plastic to ceiling for time being. That should get me through winter until next spring when I finish insulating, drywall, and install the other garage door on side wall.

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FullRaceMerc

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Watching in anticipation of a good outcome.
 
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Sparkynutz

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Hectic morning. Wide awake 4am cold as heck out 27* frost everywhere and rain barrel was froze over.
3 of the guys no showed. One I knew wasn't going to so I asked a different friend that lives 45 min away at last minute and he came down just in time. 10 minutes before truck. I think it worked out better with less guys and only 2 guys with concrete experience. I ordered way too much and tossed a bunch down last second no forms half assed in two other spots in my yard and still sent 3/4 yard back to plant to dump there.
We'll see how finishing turns out. No way in heck I'd ever do this for a living that's for sure. Not my cup of tea.9b683662a8f41f356954412ae540b192.jpg4cec3f865a4e94713f2be5e25587c7c8.jpgbe80305a36d60ba9c77f19fa3610d135.jpg96b1087c819b7ddb469ec1a35261e4af.jpgd38177845b3af7ea45578dcaf69285ec.jpge39b6b6b02994ab85a22095c9119845a.jpg

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txvwnut

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Pouring concrete is fun... once. It all looks good. I see the power trowel hanging from the ceiling, will it be put to use or is it time out.
 
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Sparkynutz

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Actually just finished power troweling last time and loaded it on trailer to return first thing in the morning.
Ordered out some pizza and spaghetti then maybe time for a movie maybe fall asleep on the couch.
I'm far from an expert but it sure looks good to me. Theres two spots I wish were better but by far acceptable not that I could change them anyways. About 10ft along back wall is about 3/16" higher than the outside wall and about 10ft of the left wall is about the same but low. Other than that it all looks really really good to me. The real test is dumping some pails of water and see if it all goes to drain or if any runs towards walls. I was honestly hoping the slab would be 1/8" or more lower than the wall just for that reason but way too late for that and I'm just too picky.
Definitely looking forward to parking my truck and tractor in there, getting started on some work benches and moving all my tools out of basement and house garage to a more permanent organized place.
Thanks for all the input and rooting for me!


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NUTTSGT

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Awesome. You'll be so happy to "not" get flooded out, I know I was. I was wanting to just lay down on the floor after mine was done. I waited 9 years to get it done and it's been another nice since then.

Now you have all winter to get the place in shape the way you want it. The extra placed concrete looks good and was money well spent.

:beer:
 
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Sparkynutz

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I slept good but not very long. Was in bed by 9, sleeping before 10 and wide awake at 2am. What better thing to do than put the sealer on so its dry before my uncle cuts it in the morning.
I found every single imperfection and a few things I would have done differently but it's still damn good enough for me.
As the Essential Craftsman would say it turned out within Allowable tolerances.
It's thick, sweepable, not an excessive slip hazard when wet, and kinda purdy.

Things I learned or would have done differently-
1, Double, triple check grade and compact many times then check again.
Figuring concrete amount would have been much easier with consistantly thickness and about $150 in wasted concrete lesson learned.
2, if making a step, make it 10"+ deep.
I didn't even think about it when I formed it up with the first boards I found laying around that I didnt even have to cut to length. My uncle said. "If you woulda made the step taller you could have put in a nice sidewalk to the deck but it's not tall enough and small steps ****. They are just a trip hazard." Too bad he didnt speak up sooner in the week and I didnt think of it. Lesson learned but it will be just fine for a few years as is till i do so min etching with the deck.
3. Be more accurate striking off along edges. Many spots higher than they should be along the wall. My wife's uncle does epoxy floors for a living. Maybe a few years down the road if it still bugs me I can have him grind it all flat and epoxy it all the way to the wall.
4. Dont leave power trowel on the concrete. Pretty ugly blade indents from where it sat right in front of service door in between passes.
5. Don't use so much if any rebar. It was a constant trip hazard. The spacing wasn't even hardly big enough to step in between. Everybody broke a lot of those cheap plastic chairs. They either push into foam or shatter or both. Every one of us broke a bunch but I tossed them and replaced them as we poured. I didnt get any bricks cut but the chairs actually worked good.
6. My buddy's skills were awesome and they are way stronger than me. They worked very well as a team and I was the odd man out mostly trying to puddle and keep chairs under the rebar as we went.
7. Organization and a little more experience sure helped things go more smooth. It was nice having my buddy Chad there this time (he had a wedding when we poured walls) anything my uncle said that I questioned Chad confirmed putting my mind at ease we were doing the right thing.
8. Putting concrete down without forms is a pain. The stuff I tossed down around window well had grass and **** all over in it and isn't very thick. I'm pretty sure it will only last a year if that. We'll see this winter. Not really a big deal to tear out and break up tho if it doesnt last.
9. Edge around entire forms, not just by doors. Where slab meets foam and wall it kinda looks like ****. Hopefully I can fix it well enough to caulk the joint.
10. Use wider foam along walls. 1/4" is a pita.
11. If I ever build a brand new shop someday it will have 8ft poured walls with 4ft of it exposed. 4ft buried and 8ft 2x6 walls on top of that with 2" foam on outside running all the way down to bottom of concrete wall. Then I wouldnt need foam under the slab and whole structure should stay warm.
Well. That's about it. Time to get a little sleep before my uncle comes in a few hours.
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Jayman17

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I slept good but not very long. Was in bed by 9, sleeping before 10 and wide awake at 2am. What better thing to do than put the sealer on so its dry before my uncle cuts it in the morning.
I found every single imperfection and a few things I would have done differently but it's still damn good enough for me.
As the Essential Craftsman would say it turned out within Allowable tolerances.
It's thick, sweepable, not an excessive slip hazard when wet, and kinda purdy.

Things I learned or would have done differently-
1, Double, triple check grade and compact many times then check again.
Figuring concrete amount would have been much easier with consistantly thickness and about $150 in wasted concrete lesson learned.
2, if making a step, make it 10"+ deep.
I didn't even think about it when I formed it up with the first boards I found laying around that I didnt even have to cut to length. My uncle said. "If you woulda made the step taller you could have put in a nice sidewalk to the deck but it's not tall enough and small steps ****. They are just a trip hazard." Too bad he didnt speak up sooner in the week and I didnt think of it. Lesson learned but it will be just fine for a few years as is till i do so min etching with the deck.
3. Be more accurate striking off along edges. Many spots higher than they should be along the wall. My wife's uncle does epoxy floors for a living. Maybe a few years down the road if it still bugs me I can have him grind it all flat and epoxy it all the way to the wall.
4. Dont leave power trowel on the concrete. Pretty ugly blade indents from where it sat right in front of service door in between passes.
5. Don't use so much if any rebar. It was a constant trip hazard. The spacing wasn't even hardly big enough to step in between. Everybody broke a lot of those cheap plastic chairs. They either push into foam or shatter or both. Every one of us broke a bunch but I tossed them and replaced them as we poured. I didnt get any bricks cut but the chairs actually worked good.
6. My buddy's skills were awesome and they are way stronger than me. They worked very well as a team and I was the odd man out mostly trying to puddle and keep chairs under the rebar as we went.
7. Organization and a little more experience sure helped things go more smooth. It was nice having my buddy Chad there this time (he had a wedding when we poured walls) anything my uncle said that I questioned Chad confirmed putting my mind at ease we were doing the right thing.
8. Putting concrete down without forms is a pain. The stuff I tossed down around window well had grass and **** all over in it and isn't very thick. I'm pretty sure it will only last a year if that. We'll see this winter. Not really a big deal to tear out and break up tho if it doesnt last.
9. Edge around entire forms, not just by doors. Where slab meets foam and wall it kinda looks like ****. Hopefully I can fix it well enough to caulk the joint.
10. Use wider foam along walls. 1/4" is a pita.
11. If I ever build a brand new shop someday it will have 8ft poured walls with 4ft of it exposed. 4ft buried and 8ft 2x6 walls on top of that with 2" foam on outside running all the way down to bottom of concrete wall. Then I wouldnt need foam under the slab and whole structure should stay warm.
Well. That's about it. Time to get a little sleep before my uncle comes in a few hours.
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Looks really good, I hope you're happy with it and can now ENJOY it! :bounce:

Jay
 

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Sparkynutz

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Euclid something. It kinda *****. Didnt dry easily, didnt soak in much and its really dull now. It's what my wife's uncle gave me free and said it's good stuff. Supposed to densify and harden it I guess. My uncle came over and cut it at 6 tonight because it wasn't even close to dry at 11 when he came. He even cut my last two window well blocks so now I dont need his saw any more. I'll probably put another coat of sealer on tomorrow and see what that does. I spent all afternoon cleaning up odds and ends then mowed lawn for hopefully last time this year.
What is this sealer that you put on?

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joes169

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Euclid something. It kinda *****. Didnt dry easily, didnt soak in much and its really dull now. It's what my wife's uncle gave me free and said it's good stuff. Supposed to densify and harden it I guess. My uncle came over and cut it at 6 tonight because it wasn't even close to dry at 11 when he came. He even cut my last two window well blocks so now I dont need his saw any more. I'll probably put another coat of sealer on tomorrow and see what that does. I spent all afternoon cleaning up odds and ends then mowed lawn for hopefully last time this year.


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Looks pretty good from over here! :thumbup:

Euclid makes great sealers in general, you have to keep in mind the concrete is extremely green yet, and the temps were very chilly to be putting down a solvent based sealer this morning. I can probably help you get more gloss if I know what you used already. Was it "Luster Seal"?
 

joes169

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To address a few of your other thoughts about changes in the future:

1. No matter what you use against the wall, you need to be very particular in how you hand mag around the wall initially. Obviously, the screed needs to lay exactly on the wet screed as well. Most of this can be corrected by the bull float with some weight on the edge of it to help get it flatter by the wall when it's still wet.

2. Using a pan for the first pass or two with the machine creates a much flatter floor as well. You can't get them tight to the wall, but they will get rid of some pretty drastic high and low spots, IF you know how to use them. We generally run one pass with the pan and run the second with combo blades (which is what appears to have been on your rental machine) and "tip" the machine into the wall as necessary to "grind" the area against the wall flat. Only after this do we send guys out on boards for the first trowel against the wall.

3. Like anything mechanical, power trowels rely on human input, and are anything but miracle workers. In the wrong hands, they can aid in creating a huge mess. It takes hundreds of hours on a machine to really get good on one in my humble opinion. It sounds like your Uncle is long retired from running them, be thankful it looks as good as it does.

4. We always leave the power trowel on the slab between passes (everyone does) other than in the early stages when we have to pull the pan off of it. The secret is to turn the blades up a few degrees higher than they were so that only a small portion of the blades is contacting the concrete. Even then, if it sits too long between passes, they may rip up a small amount of concrete. The blemishes that you're seeing will likely fade away shortly, or at least become much less noticeable.

5. As for the amount of rebar and the chair fiasco, you just found out why so many "hack contractors" simply pull the stuff up while they're pouring. That said, you have nothing to lose sleep over, the slab is not going to fail in your life due to the placement of the rebar.

Again, good job!
 

joes169

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Looks pretty good from over here! :thumbup:

Euclid makes great sealers in general, you have to keep in mind the concrete is extremely green yet, and the temps were very chilly to be putting down a solvent based sealer this morning. I can probably help you get more gloss if I know what you used already. Was it "Luster Seal"?

Or was it this stuff?
 

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GirlnAgarage

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Sparkynutz, congratulations on your redone garage and yard. I sat here the last few hours and read your entire thread. You put a ton of work and planning into this. It came out well. I think I breathed a sigh of relief when I got to the end lol Looking back, I don't know how you stayed so patient dealing with the cement wall contractors. I would have walked sooner. And very smart move grading your yard to better the drainage issues. Honestly it is irritating me seeing that swamp between you and your neighbors. It's like they are ignorant or just don't care. Well, you can lead a horse to water...

I bet you're very excited to move to the next stage of getting your garage in order. I would be too. Congrats again :beer:
 

Motoman1100

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It's funny how you can get mentally involved with somebody else's project. I was was thinking about you this weekend Sparky hoping all went well for you. From the look of the pics I think it turned out fantastic. I just hope your local Assessor isn't on GJ he may want to raise your taxes again. Ha. Congrats and thanks for bringing us along for the ride.
 
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Sparkynutz

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This is what I used. Looks like it needs to be scrubbed into surface or something. We have a floor scrubber at work I might borrow and see what that does.
It's really dirty and chalky yet after doing saw cuts. I blew it out with leaf blower then swept twice and spent almost an hour with broom, squeegee and watering cans trying to clean it up. Looked pretty good until it dried. Definitely one more cleaning before I do any more sealer.
Drain worked pretty good. I kinda wish there was more drop now but definitely better than no drain.
Saw cuts turned out excellent and very straight right on my chalk lines.
Last pic is worst spot right where other garage door will go. I'll most likely hit it with a sander or diamond grinder to take off the sloppy spots.
All the dust hides the imperfections and I think it looks even better. Most likely it's most common state now that I have a shop to work in.
Now the question is. How long till I bring my toolboxes in? I was thinking maybe tomorrow. The other garage has been a mess since this project started and I'm itching to clean it up and my wife can park in it again.
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NUTTSGT

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You'll probably get varying opinions on how long to wait, but I'd give it about 5 days. You poured on the 13th so you're close to half way there.

Might be a good time, if you can swing it, to go grab your insulation and get the walls insulated before you start moving stuff in.
 

Diesel Dan

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Things I learned or would have done differently-
1, Double, triple check grade and compact many times then check again.
Figuring concrete amount would have been much easier with consistantly thickness and about $150 in wasted concrete lesson learned.

5. Don't use so much if any rebar. It was a constant trip hazard. The spacing wasn't even hardly big enough to step in between. Everybody broke a lot of those cheap plastic chairs. They either push into foam or shatter or both. Every one of us broke a bunch but I tossed them and replaced them as we poured. I didnt get any bricks cut but the chairs actually worked good.
The floor looks good, you'll be happy this winter for sure!

Don't worry about the extra concrete. When I had a shop slab poured I must have checked the sub grade every couple feet in every direction, had string lines pulled everywhere and hand leveled with 8' straight edge.

Figured the yardage necessary and added 10+% and still came up short. Short load fee was $250 for one yard. Guy doing the floor said the mix plant I used was notorious for shorting loads but how ya going to prove it?

Don't recall having such issues with the rebar on my current shop but it was also on 2' grid patter. Another + for using chunks of bricks/concrete it sounds like.
 
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Sparkynutz

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You'll probably get varying opinions on how long to wait, but I'd give it about 5 days. You poured on the 13th so you're close to half way there.

Might be a good time, if you can swing it, to go grab your insulation and get the walls insulated before you start moving stuff in.
Was planning on waiting but my uncle talked me into doing it now. He has 3 weeks vacation for hunting and offered to help on anything I need help with. Cant pass that up.
I started emptying rafters and removed all the hardwired lights. Those weren't done right either. Wire was just through the knockouts.
I put vapor proof boxes in where the lights were to put receptacles in so changing lights is easier down the road.
I'm adding a ceiling fan in middle just haven't found the one I want yet.
Removing all the drywall on walls to put plastic on those too.
After a closer look over 3/4 of the cavities insulation was cut too short. They have gaps 1-2 inches wide at top. What a bonehead. Looks like I'll be installing tiny pieces of insulation because removing and messing with all the staples and insulation just dont sound like fun.
I also have a guy coming Saturday to buy a bunch of the wood leftover from bracing and forms to build a lean to. Decluttering sure will help the organization process.


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Sparkynutz

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Sold all the wood from lifting garage today for $100 after guy left I started adding it up and realized it was at least $500+ in wood. Guess he got a smoking deal.
Then I installed an attic ladder. Much easier than anticipated and turned out pretty nice. I kick myself tho. I shoulda kept at least some of the wood. Too late now.
I rearranged the lighting moving them all slightly and adding 2 above garage door for when its closed so there isn't a dark spot like it used to be. I'm torn on what to do for lights tho. I love the 4' 40 watt 3600 lumen led lights that were in it but there was only 5 of them and they are long discontinued and haven't been able to find any more anywhere. They were originally hardwired but I either plan on installing pull chain light sockets with a single receptacle in them like I had in my old house garage that allows a stoplight plugged into each.
My other idea is just to install standard twin receptacles so I can have a shop light on each side of the boxes on some of them for a total of 10 4' led lights and use my current 5 in house garage or somewhere else. What would you guys do for lights?
Things are starting to look nice and I love having all the tools right there where I need them not tripping over **** crammed in my basement and other garage.
I installed a motion flood into soffet above service door too.
Tomorrow I finish some of the wiring, a few receptacles and beefing up an area to hang an electric hoist.

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RickP

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My other idea is just to install standard twin receptacles so I can have a shop light on each side of the boxes on some of them for a total of 10 4' led lights and use my current 5 in house garage or somewhere else. What would you guys do for lights?

Nice job on the new slab - it looks really good. You must have been glad to get that done before winter.

For the lights, I'd go with the twin receptacles. The lights will be easy to hang and can be changed in the future, and it's half as many boxes to install compared to one box for each hardwired light. They can also serve double duty in the future if you want to add a spotlight or a cord reel on the ceiling.
 

xtremek

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Location
St. Johns, Mi
I agree with your twin box route. I went that way with the lights in my barn. You can never have too much light in your work area.
 
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Sparkynutz

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
409
Location
Wisconsin
update-
Wiring to all boxes and neatly hooked up in panel is complete.
I put a 10x12 distribution box with terminal strip in the attic of the following wire sizes-
14-2, 12-2, 12-3, 10-2
that should just about cover anything I didnt already wire and allow it to be dropped down easily from attic with minimal wall fishing or opening up.
The main wall my workbench is on has 4x 20 amp circuits for receptacles, a 20 amp circuit for ceiling fan and outside light and a 15 amp circuit for 7 ceiling mounted receptacles that will feed plenty of plug in led ceiling mount lights.
the other 2 walls have one 20 amp circuit each. I added an outside receptacle for when I use saws etc in driveway.
There is also a dedicated 20 amp circuit for my compressor and another for my grinder and sander on front wall right under the panel.
last but not least a 30 amp 10-2 receptacle to temporarily heat my garage with an electric heater until I get gas ran into it when funds allow. The thermostat wire is also ran into the box and extra long up in attic ready to be dropped down wherever heater ends up going.
I put two 4x4x8' in ceiling to spread weight across rafters and blocking in for bolting a 14' length of unistrut that will function as my electric hoist trolley going from attic hole almost center of garage to the corner above workbench. If my math is correct and weight spread decently I should be able to lift 200-300lb easily when using an eye hook spreading the weight between two points on the strut channel. Should work great for deer, working on lawn mowers, atvs, dirt bikes, etc.
The attic center has 3 rows of 2x4's running perpendicular to rafters with sheeting laying on top to walk on and for light storage.
Yesterday I just finished plastic vapor barrier and drywall goes up Saturday/Sunday.
I had electric heater running yesterday and as soon as most of plastic was up I had to turn heat down and take my jacket off. It heated up fast even without ceiling insulation now that the hot air is held in by plastic not going right up and out ridge vent.
Things are shaping up nicely and garage will soon be everything I've dreamed of having.
We had plenty of rain and snow with the ditch between my house and neighbor filled to brim a few times. Atleast the garage is now staying dry and my yard is much dryer as well. Last two years my entire backyard was a skating rink and so far there is only one small low spot with a little water/ice that I'll regrade and fix next year.
Thanks again for all the comments and advice along the way!

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