I wired everything up with the transformer and switching relay, but the new thermostat doesn't seem to call for heat. I confirmed my wiring with my old thermostat before I installed the new one, so the isolation relay wiring should be correct.
Working with the manufacturer on the issue now.
not sure. what exactly was done at your end. Hope this doesn't confuse more... not exactly a technical writer material... at any point if it is way too confusing... maybe should contact a HVAC guy.......YMMV
It's very simple wiring... assuming you went with the diagram of the isolation relay...
If your old thermostat worked on batteries, it should have only used 2 wires (if it is heating thermostat only),
you needed 3 wires for it to work (that is 3 wires from the thermostat to the transformer/relay then two wires from the relay contact side to the T*T of the RA89A.
hook it up as you see on the diagram, not as you see on the old thermostat... I don't think it is the same wiring as your Old thermostat, if you choose to go with isolation relay... the battery operated thermostat worked a little different than the ones that worked off 24Vacs...
Here is how I would have logically looking at it. Not sure what Thermostat you installed and
with nothing hooked up to your RA89A's T&T yet....
You have a 24vac output transformer, that have output 2 leads (the 120V inputside, you know it is just Line and neutral), take any one of the output leads and label it as R (or RH/RC or just R)... and the Other output lead label as C... those two wire goes to your new thermostat. R and C...
Now find another wire that also goes to the thermostat and label it as W1.. this wire goes to your new thermostat and W1...
and at the transformer/relay end.... this wire goes to the Coil side of the relay... lets say the common (White/Yellow) if you have the RIBC...
At the transformer/Relay end... take the other coil side of the relay (for the RIBC it's white/blue) hook it up the the transformer output your just label C... for common...
on the relay contact side, you would needed the NO and Common ... (for the RIBC it's Yellow for common and Orange for NO.) Hook those to the T*T of the RA89A (but leave it unhooked during trouble shooting) , It should have continuity if the thermostat calls for heat and no voltage or anything between these two leads....
1) is your thermostat powers up with R (maybe it is RH/RC) and C... if yes then your R and C is ok...
2) when your thermostat calls for heat... put a multimeter on AC voltage setting and measure voltage between W1 and C... do you get 24-ish volt... if Yes then your thermostat calls for heat... if no... maybe it should be on a different terminal ? Check which ? have 24V ?
3) since the W1 (lets say it's W1) and C just connects to the coil side of the Relay... (the 24V coil, not 120V coil, *some have dual voltage).... when it is is connected and the thermostat calls for heat, you should see 24Vac between the W1 and C... did the coil of the relay clicks... if you bought that RIBU1C relay, the LED should have lid if it is activated. or sees 24VAC at the coil...the coil side of the relay should be (white/blue, and white/yellow)
4) If step 1 to 3 are good... then check if the relay side between the Common / and NO wire... does it have continuity... if it has continuity.... then the setup is good and you can hook up the contact side of the relay to T&T on the RA89A doesn't matter which T to which relay contact, just have to be the Common and NO... for the RIBU1C yellow wire is the common, and orange is the N.O. and you are capping or tapping up blue, white/black... those two wires are not used.
If you don't see your thermostat power up check the R, see which R you should be connect to some times it's RH... some times they wanted you to jump R and RH... dependents on the thermostat...
If the thermostat calls for heat, and you don't see any 24Vac between the W terminals, then you should call your thermostat company...
If your relay didn't click just make sure you got the right coil... for the RIBC it's white/yellow white/blue.
If you don't see continuity on the contact side of the relay when it has power on the coil... maybe you mixed up the NO and common and NC and common ........
If all steps are verified, then, you'll have to look at the RA89A, putting a jumper across T&T should call for heat... if it does, then maybe your wiring have problems.
Pretty sure you can pick up from here...
