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Thin coating for metal to increase friction?

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Innovate1

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Working on a sheet metal press for some thin aluminum (flashing material) and need to clamp the blank to prevent it moving during the operation. It's prepainted and want to minimize surface damage although some minor would be ok as it's on the back side. Had considered some sort of machining or other process to make the steel clamping surface slightly rough but now thinking some sort of grippy, thin coating on the faces of the clamp might work. Any suggestions of coating material for that?
 
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ez-duzit

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Try the clear, self-adhesive material that is applied to automobile fenders at wheel wells to prevent paint damage from gravel. Alternatively 3M makes a non-skid "tape" which is used on stair treads for increased traction.
 
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cannuck

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I would start with glass bead blasting the surface to get fine enough texture to minimize damage from imprinting Al. If you can't stand that much a thin sheet (1/16") of neoprene between clamp and work as well as behind the Al against the backup surface MIGHT give enough grab. What Al alloy are you trying to draw and how deep is the draw? Wait a minute, I forgot the "pre-painted" part. Are you in a press brake or a press? With painted surface if NOT to move, go with neoprene - but suggests your top die will be bending and stretching the part. If so (drawing) you are going to lose the paint.

How about some more detail on what you are trying to do and what tooling you are using?
 
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gmcgeo

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Innovate1 said:
Working on a sheet metal press for some thin aluminum (flashing material) and need to clamp the blank to prevent it moving during the operation. It's prepainted and want to minimize surface damage although some minor would be ok as it's on the back side. Had considered some sort of machining or other process to make the steel clamping surface slightly rough but now thinking some sort of grippy, thin coating on the faces of the clamp might work. Any suggestions of coating material for that?
Click to expand...
bed liner would be the best solution here. bonds to the metal instead of like plastidip that just covers it and will peel off. if you are putting force on this you want something that will bond and be durable
 
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jack stand

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Bear with me, so you're building a break or have one that doesn't close tight enough to grab and hold the material during the bend?
I've had many "aluminum breaks" over the years and this is not a problem unless it's very old and out of adjustment.
If you only have a few pieces to bend and it's more of a stationary sheet metal break that's not gripping the material, wouldn't a 2nd layer of scrap coil just laid it only at the gripping area tighten it up enough?
 
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kerrynzl

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Innovate1 said:
Working on a sheet metal press for some thin aluminum (flashing material) and need to clamp the blank to prevent it moving during the operation. It's prepainted and want to minimize surface damage although some minor would be ok as it's on the back side. Had considered some sort of machining or other process to make the steel clamping surface slightly rough but now thinking some sort of grippy, thin coating on the faces of the clamp might work. Any suggestions of coating material for that?
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Dacromet paint. It is a controlled friction paint used on trailer leaf springs [trailers usually don't have shocks]
 
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Monza Harry

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May or may not help but when clamping smooth [usually hardened] pieces in a vise we [machinists/toolmakers] will use plain paper, and if some cushion/surface protection is required simple masking tape can be used. Multiple layers can be used if clamping a few pieces and the expectation of one moving due to small size differences. Just something for your careful consideration. Harry
Sorry reading the next posts shows the shortcomings of my answer, somewhat appropriate for a brake but not at all for a stamping situation. H.R.
 
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Innovate1

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jack stand said:
Bear with me, so you're building a break or have one that doesn't close tight enough to grab and hold the material during the bend?
I've had many "aluminum breaks" over the years and this is not a problem unless it's very old and out of adjustment.
If you only have a few pieces to bend and it's more of a stationary sheet metal break that's not gripping the material, wouldn't a 2nd layer of scrap coil just laid it only at the gripping area tighten it up enough?
Click to expand...
No, not a brake. It's a drawing die. Basically stretches the sheet to form a shallow cup with a shape on the outside edge. Using a shop press.
 
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Innovate1

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As to loosing the paint, not sure what it is but it is suprisingly tough. I have some embossing tooling and it doesn't hurt the paint a bit. It stretches right with the aluminum. They roll form gutters from this kind of material in the painted state too. For flashing you can fold the material back on itself and smash it flat and the paint is fine. That's a typical use for it. Maybe paint isn't the right word for the coating...
 
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PCustoms

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What are you trying to make?

Depending on the shape and how deep you need to form it there is a good chance this is going to tear. I think the paint is going to get destroyed, as you are literally stretching it.

Try spray adhesive to add a little tack.
 
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RoninB4

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Forming sheet metal, like the videos above do, has a lot of guidelines to follow. Some apply, some do not. It really does depend upon the shape, depth of draw, and the material being formed. Shallow forming can be called coining, a forming depth several times the diameter can be called deep draw. The former is far easier than the latter. Large batch production requires tooling to follow standard draw die rules, small batch tooling is less fussy. Applying a surface film to enhance "grip" may work for you or you may be chasing your tail with a marginal solution that doesn't work as well as you want it to.

A photo or drawing of what you're trying to do and the tooling you're working with gets more detailed/better replies. I was a tool and die maker for 25 years (retired now), might be able to suggest something to help. If you'd rather not post in public send me a PM.
 
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