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Things Snap-On Tool owners say.

MattRMagnum

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There's a big gap between the low end brands and Snap On. It's really odd when people look at it as if its black-and-white, thinking you can't get Snap On tools for a fraction of the cost - meanwhile brands like Bondhus literally sell Snap On allen keys for way less money.

Oh, I won't disagree that, in some cases, there's a difference in quality. My key point is this: the ROI is rarely there. Craftman's warranty nullifies the benefit of Snap-On. Even if the tool is more durable, if Craftsman is significantly cheaper and has an equal warranty, why buy Snap-On? I've a friend who's and an avid off-roader who has broken/rebuilt his rig many times (and insanely brilliant, but detailing how would likely out his identity, due to the narrowness of his field). After breaking a HF tool, he started tracking what he spent on a tool, how long it lasted, and how often it broke. He could make some higher-end brands make sense, but I think Snap-On made sense with like 1-2 specific items, and everything else the less-expensive alternatives were more cost effective, unless he broke them monthly, or something ridiculous.

I can't imagine a payment on 80k worth of tools. I didn't even pay half that for my semi truck. Both my semi trucks combined didn't cost half that. 😂

I have a select few Snap-on things but it's always been swipe the Discover then pay as soon as it hits. Some I'd swear by, others not so much.
I can't either. I also can't see any value to a toolbox that large. I've a fair number of tools, and a few more tool chests WOULD make me more organized... but one that's 20' long, or whatever it was? That's just too big to be useful. I like my little ones because I can roll them under a car, use them, and then roll them back.
 
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tarbellb

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It seems those without snap on tools are obsessed with convincing themselves and others they don’t need them.

It seems those with snap on tools are obsessed with convincing themselves and others they do need them


🤔
 

M6erfan

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Any of you familiar with Allen Millyard?

I'm laughing at the comments here about "no self respecting mechanic uses 'cheap' tools", or "a true photographer needs L series glass". Ever been in a Michelin Star restaurant's kitchen? Commercial aluminum pots and pans and Dexter plastic handled knives rule the lines.

Such horseshit. Some of you guys crack me up, really . . .

 
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2ndGearRubber

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Any of you familiar with Allen Millyard?

I'm laughing at the comments here about "no self respecting mechanic uses 'cheap' tools", or "a true photographer needs L series glass". Ever been in a Michelin Star restaurant's kitchen? Commercial aluminum pots and pans and Dexter plastic handled knives rule the lines.

Such horseshit. Some of you guys crack me up, really . . .


Okay.... does he work flat rate/commission/piece work? Where not making a red light on a test drive costs me 25 cents? Otherwise it's apple and oranges.

IDK I -can- work with a lot of different tools. I like wright grips and koken extensions, because I'm stuck using them all day. Nut was a 17mm, I have it glowing red and hammering a 14mm on, what's a socket worth then? Paying the piper hardly costs a thing.
 

Boogerman

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Craftman's warranty nullifies the benefit of Snap-On. Even if the tool is more durable, if Craftsman is significantly cheaper and has an equal warranty, why buy Snap-On?
Seen these arguments for years on GJ. What both sides don't realize or won't acknowledge; They're putting their perspective onto the opposites sides tool choices, and judging by that. The above quote exemplifies that, not picking on Matt, just a convenient quote. The flip side of that quote would be just as inapplicable "Why would someone buy tools that are less durable, and spend time warrantying them, when they can just buy XXXX tool for $$$$ more instead?" Both of those statements judge a choice based on a particular set of circumstances, that may not apply to others making the opposite choice.

The guy that has a good paying job and makes enough money to buy the boutique tools he prefers, would be successful and have that money if he had to work with something else. He would just figure out a way to do it. The kid that borrows money to buy a starter set on credit of truck tools and then quits 3 months into his first job would have quit just the same if he had bought yard sale tools or harbor freight or Tekton. The guy that grinds away with his painfully acquired set of mixed tools that he paid for a piece at a time as he went made the choices he had to, within his skills/capabilities/opportunities; buying boutique tools on credit wouldn't have made him more successful.

I have almost all of what the expedient tool group would consider extravagant tools. Higher end, excellent condition (replaced as needed to stay that way), and wide variety. I use those tools daily. I make money off of them. I also do most of my work in a heated, insulated, sealed, well lighted, climate controlled shop that stays at 68 to 74 degrees 24/7 year round. I CHOOSE to work with that level of tools, because I like to. They save me some annoyance of having tools break or wear out slightly more often, and I CHOOSE not to spend my time warrantying Craftsman and instead spend it working on things I want to do. I make significantly more than the average tool user; I've netted nearly $20K in the past 30 days of self employed work, probably not exceeding 60 or 70 hours a week. That wouldn't have changed much if I was working with my dads Craftsman tools, but would have been almost nothing if I was working in a steel pole building with a dirt floor, poor lights and minimal electricity. Having access to $100K worth of lathe, mill, grinders, drill press, welders, ultrasonic, pressure washer, sandblaster, paint gun, etc was also necessary. So, the building setting mattered, the industrial tools did too, the mechanics hand tools didn't. But, I enjoyed every day of using those better tools much more than I remember working with my Dad's stuff in his shop. I probably worked more, and more efficiently because of that. Maybe $3K more than I would have with less fun stuff. I probably put $20K a year into having nicer tools and better consumables than the minimum I need. But, I probably make 50% more than that back in increased productivity work because I like working that way better.

With my perspective, I can't imagine working in a **** tools pole building shop, much less in a driveway or carport or such. I'd quit and do something else instead. But, that's from the perspective of my circumstances; if I didn't do what I do, I'd do something else that pays similar and is similarly interesting. Not everyone has that choice; they do what they need to do.

I really try to be aware of the perspective of some here that are willing to accept a few hours of down time here and there with a broken or inadequate tool, and going to warranty it. Because they don't have an extra $20K per year to put into buying something to avoid that down time and irritation; and if they did, it wouldn't return more than that in extra funds to them. They are absolutely making the right choice for their circumstances.

Recognizing that not everyone that thinks or works different than I do is stupid is a first step in understanding others. High end companies didn't become successful exploiting stupid people, they became successful catering to successful people that are willing to pay some of their money to have nicer things. Similarly, economy grade manufacturers and sellers became successful selling people things that they want/need, at a price they can afford. Because there wouldn't have been a market for something better costing a few times more; their buyers don't have the money.

Reminds me: Should get back to work, have things want get done today!
 

M6erfan

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Okay.... does he work flat rate/commission/piece work? Where not making a red light on a test drive costs me 25 cents? Otherwise it's apple and oranges.

IDK I -can- work with a lot of different tools. I like wright grips and koken extensions, because I'm stuck using them all day. Nut was a 17mm, I have it glowing red and hammering a 14mm on, what's a socket worth then? Paying the piper hardly costs a thing.

That's not what I'm talking about.

But the snobbish tone by some of I wouldn't trust a shop/mechanic/photog using "cheap" gear. I judge the work, the final outcome, the reputation. IDGAF what hardware was used to get there.

My machinist, back in TX, before he retired a few years ago. His newest ratchet was a 936. All of his micrometers and calipers were old school manual. He still did his math on paper, lol. His work put more "modern" shops to shame.
 

2ndGearRubber

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That's not what I'm talking about.

But the snobbish tone by some of I wouldn't trust a shop/mechanic/photog using "cheap" gear. I judge the work, the final outcome, the reputation. IDGAF what hardware was used to get there.

My machinist, back in TX, before he retired a few years ago. His newest ratchet was a 936. All of his micrometers and calipers were old school manual. He still did his math on paper, lol. His work put more "modern" shops to shame.

Sounds like he didn't have cheap gear either. Just didn't do upgrades. A 936 was an expensive/premiums ratchet in its day was it not?

I'm with you, snobbish attitudes from either side offer little.
 

Kurt4440

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Any of you familiar with Allen Millyard?

I'm laughing at the comments here about "no self respecting mechanic uses 'cheap' tools", or "a true photographer needs L series glass". Ever been in a Michelin Star restaurant's kitchen? Commercial aluminum pots and pans and Dexter plastic handled knives rule the lines.

Such horseshit. Some of you guys crack me up, really . . .

Allen Millyard is a good example of a hobbyist working without the biggest and best equipment. His shop is small, yet functional.

But...

Allen Millyard is keen on motorcycles in the same way you might say the Pope is keen on religion. In Allen's lounge, where you might expect to find a coffee table, he keeps a big Suzuki and a 1,000cc Kawasaki. They have to go there, because a brand new motocrosser has just arrived in the dining room. And if you think that's strange, wait until you see the Gilera, Malaguti and Hondas upstairs...
 

2ndGearRubber

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Allen Millyard is a good example of a hobbyist working without the biggest and best equipment. His shop is small, yet functional.

But...

Allen Millyard is keen on motorcycles in the same way you might say the Pope is keen on religion. In Allen's lounge, where you might expect to find a coffee table, he keeps a big Suzuki and a 1,000cc Kawasaki. They have to go there, because a brand new motocrosser has just arrived in the dining room. And if you think that's strange, wait until you see the Gilera, Malaguti and Hondas upstairs...

I would cry if I had to use that tool set. Seems awful when I could spend some cash on amazon even and massively improve efficiency.
 

BarrelRoll

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Oh, I won't disagree that, in some cases, there's a difference in quality. My key point is this: the ROI is rarely there. Craftman's warranty nullifies the benefit of Snap-On. Even if the tool is more durable, if Craftsman is significantly cheaper and has an equal warranty, why buy Snap-On? I've a friend who's and an avid off-roader who has broken/rebuilt his rig many times (and insanely brilliant, but detailing how would likely out his identity, due to the narrowness of his field). After breaking a HF tool, he started tracking what he spent on a tool, how long it lasted, and how often it broke. He could make some higher-end brands make sense, but I think Snap-On made sense with like 1-2 specific items, and everything else the less-expensive alternatives were more cost effective, unless he broke them monthly, or something ridiculous.


I can't either. I also can't see any value to a toolbox that large. I've a fair number of tools, and a few more tool chests WOULD make me more organized... but one that's 20' long, or whatever it was? That's just too big to be useful. I like my little ones because I can roll them under a car, use them, and then roll them back.

I take it you don't turn wrenches for a living?

I work on industrial junk for a living, think big, heavy, and usually screwed up. Tools I have to push the limits of I buy good tools. When I'm putting everything I have on a 54" pry bar or 24" ratchet I want the best I can buy. If they let loose best case scenario it's going to hurt, worst case scenario I'm out of work on disability making roughly 50% of my wages or changing careers. Not to mention if I get hurt I have to go talk to the safety man and screw all of my coworkers out of the safety bonus for the month.

At work we are limited on tool box width to 72". A 72" wide by 30" deep by 6'2" tall box with a half hutch gives me the most storage for the room I'm given. If I could have bought an import box that worked for my needs I would have considered one though it doesn't exist.
 

F-22

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I would cry if I had to use that tool set. Seems awful when I could spend some cash on amazon even and massively improve efficiency.
Millyard is a classic old school enthusiast working from an old shed. I believe he just enjoys to do what he does in the exact way he does it and he won't change...
 

Pinemarten

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Just to reset........................almost $80 for a stubby ratcheting screwdriver seems excessive to me. Snap-on prices seem to be a bit high. The video was about the funny lengths Snap-on fanboys go to justify those type of prices.
 
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Firebrick43

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Any of you familiar with Allen Millyard?

I'm laughing at the comments here about "no self respecting mechanic uses 'cheap' tools", or "a true photographer needs L series glass". Ever been in a Michelin Star restaurant's kitchen? Commercial aluminum pots and pans and Dexter plastic handled knives rule the lines.

Such horseshit. Some of you guys crack me up, really . . .

Elliot milling machine, not cheap ****

Colchester lathe, not cheap ****

Press, cant tell what brand but it isn't a bottle jack press, not cheap ****.

Wera screw drivers, not Chinese cheap ****

Deep offset german double ring spanners(either stahlwille or hazet) not cheap ****.

While his layout is unconventional and he has a different way of assembling his tools, for the most part are not cheap crappy tools. Is scope of work is also very very narrow.

I would dare to say that if he is doing old school fine file work his files are not soft cheap chinese **** either. Anyone doing work like that would be instantly pissed with such rubbish.
 

nbpt100

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If cheap tools are fine in the truck why aren't they fine in the shop?
It is a compromise. It is not black or white. I have had my tools stolen from my van a few years ago. That got me to rethink some things. Sometimes I leave tools behind when I am working in the field. Call it risk management. I dont mind loosing a $2 HF screw driver or an old C'man ratchet. But I get a bit more upset if I lost one of my more expensive ratchets. There are times when I wish I had my better tools with me. Not often, but it happens. However you get by and keep the loss risk down.
 

F-22

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Elliot milling machine, not cheap ****

Colchester lathe, not cheap ****
True, but on the other hand they're about as cheap as they can be to make that kind of work :)

I mean, they're really really cheap compared to buying a new lathe and mill of that quality. Not sure what new would compare... Weiler in Germany makes new classic style lathes in that size, but I doubt 40000€ is enough. The Colchester is less than 10000€ even if in very nice condition. A new mill of that quality is even more...
 

Firebrick43

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True, but on the other hand they're about as cheap as they can be to make that kind of work :)

I mean, they're really really cheap compared to buying a new lathe and mill of that quality. Not sure what new would compare... Weiler in Germany makes new classic style lathes in that size, but I doubt 40000€ is enough. The Colchester is less than 10000€ even if in very nice condition. A new mill of that quality is even more...
Buying used tools or fixing them up is inexpensive, not cheap.

The definition of cheap we are using is "Of poor quality; inferior."

which typically comes with a low price as well.
 

Firebrick43

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Okay you can certainly use it in that way, but if we go into semantics, can you argue that the main definition of "cheap" is not "of low cost"?
Yes its one of the main definitions but there is no context for that definition in this thread. Its english, and therefore all about the context.
Further reinforced as every time I used it the word "****" followed. Pretty obvious which definition I was using.

Not a single person has said "you have to and can only buy NEW snap on wrenches, used snap on purchased inexpensively don't count."

Many including me would not look down a bit on a professional using tools that cost less than snap on but are professional quality such as SK, Wright, Proto, Hazet, Stahlwille, or even good quality tiwanese tools such as texton, sunnex, or gray.

Snap on wrenches even if they are of low cost, because they still retain their quality. As does most of the tools and equipment shown in the video.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Millyard is a classic old school enthusiast working from an old shed. I believe he just enjoys to do what he does in the exact way he does it and he won't change...

That was my point earlier. He's an enthusiast.

When it's steak or hamburger helper tonight based on how fast one can produce repair work, the equation shifts.

I've replaced struts in my home garage using tekton wrenches and an old IR impact, on jackstands. I would not recommend that if one needs to make a living doing repairs.

Im happy he's happy with what he has. Zero hate from me. But that's apples to oranges when you're trying to diagnose a misfire or swap a condenser against the clock.
 

M635_Guy

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Yes its one of the main definitions but there is no context for that definition in this thread. Its english, and therefore all about the context.
Further reinforced as every time I used it the word "****" followed. Pretty obvious which definition I was using.

Not a single person has said "you have to and can only buy NEW snap on wrenches, used snap on purchased inexpensively don't count."

Many including me would not look down a bit on a professional using tools that cost less than snap on but are professional quality such as SK, Wright, Proto, Hazet, Stahlwille, or even good quality Taiwanese tools such as tekton, Sunex, or gray.

Snap on wrenches even if they are of low cost, because they still retain their quality. As does most of the tools and equipment shown in the video.

I think we're all agreed (or should be) that the operative definition of "cheap" we're all using is the one that designates "low quality" which is generally going to be low cost as well.

The nuance is where the quality curve meets the rigors of professional use. I won't pretend that represents a single profile either - clearly @BarrelRoll works in a pretty abusive environment vs. your average auto tech. The problem comes when people lump everything from HF into the cheap category (mainly referring to the quality definition.). I'd be willing to be a pro could use my setup very successfully, despite it being fairly dominated by non-truck tools (mainly Icon). Some of HF's middle-tier tools (e.g. Quinn, Bremen, Doyle, etc.) would probably be fine also. None of that stuff fits either definition of "cheap" for me, where most of the Pittsburgh stuff would for both (with the notable exception of the impact sockets - I've heard lots of people say they've used them successfully in pro environments). Tool truck prices are driven as much by their business model (middle men that have to pay themselves, buy a franchise/route, a very-expensive truck and carry a lot of $$ in inventory) as anything else - I'd guess as much as half of the price you pay for a SO/Matco/Mac/Cornwell tool.
 
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dchawk81

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That was my point earlier. He's an enthusiast.

When it's steak or hamburger helper tonight based on how fast one can produce repair work, the equation shifts.

I've replaced struts in my home garage using tekton wrenches and an old IR impact, on jackstands. I would not recommend that if one needs to make a living doing repairs.

Im happy he's happy with what he has. Zero hate from me. But that's apples to oranges when you're trying to diagnose a misfire or swap a condenser against the clock.
So what was wrong with the Tekton and IR?

I'd have a lift for sure though. I want one even as a DIYer.
 

2ndGearRubber

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So what was wrong with the Tekton and IR?

I'd have a lift for sure though. I want one even as a DIYer.

Wrenches are too short first of all. Box ends have too much lead in taper and have minimal engagement as a result. Fit is just okay, IMO the other metric set of sunex I have at home is superior. Frankly the tekton combos are below what I consider the standard tekton normally offers. Areas I wanted to use the box end I sometimes changed over to a socket and ratchet, due to slipping concerns.

The old IR removed 50% of the strut bolts, needed a breaker bar for the rest, 22mm?

I "got the job done". I beat flat rate actually on a rusty 20yo camry from PA. Not the point. I could have saved significant time and effort with wright grips and a better impact.

That's sort of where the topic sits for me. One can certainly use "cheaper" or whatever adjective tools vs breaking out snap on, matco, proto, koken, Wright, etc. They will, usually, complete the job. Not always, but let's say 95%+ it's capable of being done. There are times that without a snap on FDX socket you are not removing the rotten nut. So now you get to engineer a new way to cut down the EVAP canister and resecure it, or you can pay the piper.

The difference is when you do it all day and on a schedule, the extra effort just *****, and can cost you money. One -can- pull exhaust manifold studs with vice grips. My coworker does regularly with the aid of a torch. I've done it too, I'm totally capable of it. I have 250 bucks worth of different stud pullers, and use the same torch. One of us needs less heat, less time, and less effort. Where that matrix of $$$ vs time and energy sits is different for everyone.

The example I like is the special Subaru caliper bracket socket. Can I use a long offset wrench? Of course, what did I do before that socket existed? Snap on sells it for 70 bucks, lot of money for one socket. Do 5 axles worth of the caliper bracket bolts in one day, and consider what that 70 bucks is worth.
 

dchawk81

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Wrenches are too short first of all. Box ends have too much lead in taper and have minimal engagement as a result. Fit is just okay, IMO the other metric set of sunex I have at home is superior. Frankly the tekton combos are below what I consider the standard tekton normally offers. Areas I wanted to use the box end I sometimes changed over to a socket and ratchet, due to slipping concerns.

The old IR removed 50% of the strut bolts, needed a breaker bar for the rest, 22mm?

I "got the job done". I beat flat rate actually on a rusty 20yo camry from PA. Not the point. I could have saved significant time and effort with wright grips and a better impact.

That's sort of where the topic sits for me. One can certainly use "cheaper" or whatever adjective tools vs breaking out snap on, matco, proto, koken, Wright, etc. They will, usually, complete the job. Not always, but let's say 95%+ it's capable of being done. There are times that without a snap on FDX socket you are not removing the rotten nut. So now you get to engineer a new way to cut down the EVAP canister and resecure it, or you can pay the piper.

The difference is when you do it all day and on a schedule, the extra effort just *****, and can cost you money. One -can- pull exhaust manifold studs with vice grips. My coworker does regularly with the aid of a torch. I've done it too, I'm totally capable of it. I have 250 bucks worth of different stud pullers, and use the same torch. One of us needs less heat, less time, and less effort. Where that matrix of $$$ vs time and energy sits is different for everyone.

The example I like is the special Subaru caliper bracket socket. Can I use a long offset wrench? Of course, what did I do before that socket existed? Snap on sells it for 70 bucks, lot of money for one socket. Do 5 axles worth of the caliper bracket bolts in one day, and consider what that 70 bucks is worth.
10-4. I've never used Tekton traditional wrenches but I do know my line wrenches **** ***. Fit is poor, heads are huge, and they flex. Terrifying to use, if I'm honest.

I had an IR that felt like it had no balls years ago but I can't remember the model, and I didn't have much of an air system back then either. So I didn't know which to blame.
 

Kurt4440

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My thought experiments might help you clarify your opinion on tool purchases.

First my background:
I am not a professional mechanic.
I have been acquiring tools for 45 years.
I have everything from Armstrong to Wright, including tools from Taiwan.
My mechanical work is mostly cars, light trucks, motorcycles, and equipment.
I have a lift and 6 floor jacks.
I have too many tool boxes, mostly Mac.

Thought Experiment #1
You are employed as a professional mechanic and your employer will buy you whatever tools and tool box you want with an unlimited budget. You get to keep the tools and box if you work there for x years and are productive.
What do you buy?

Thought Experiment #2
You win the lottery and want to set up your dream garage.
What do you buy?
 

Firebrick43

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Kurt4440

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In neither of the above thought experiments, would I buy/have employer buy a ratcheting screwdriver for $78.95.
You know that you are making decisions based on your needs not finances or perceived status.

My Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver was a gift. I like it very much, not only for the tool's quality, but, also the sentiment.
You may want to look at the Williams ratcheting screwdrivers.

20230919_121203.jpg
 

M6erfan

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My thought experiments might help you clarify your opinion on tool purchases.

First my background:
I am not a professional mechanic.
I have been acquiring tools for 45 years.
I have everything from Armstrong to Wright, including tools from Taiwan.
My mechanical work is mostly cars, light trucks, motorcycles, and equipment.
I have a lift and 6 floor jacks.
I have too many tool boxes, mostly Mac.

Thought Experiment #1
You are employed as a professional mechanic and your employer will buy you whatever tools and tool box you want with an unlimited budget. You get to keep the tools and box if you work there for x years and are productive.
What do you buy?

Thought Experiment #2
You win the lottery and want to set up your dream garage.
What do you buy?

I wouldn't choose 100%, 50% or even 25% Snap-on tools in either one of those hypothetical scenarios. But that's just me.

Tool box maybe. I like their midget wrenches, line wrenches, some of their pliers. That's about it.
 

Kurt4440

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I wouldn't choose 100%, 50% or even 25% Snap-on tools in either one of those hypothetical scenarios. But that's just me.

Tool box maybe. I like their midget wrenches, line wrenches, some of their pliers. That's about it.
I wouldn't have 100% Snap-On either, but, I would have more than I have now.
 

2ndGearRubber

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In neither of the above thought experiments, would I buy/have employer buy a ratcheting screwdriver for $78.95.

Me either, primarily because I don't use one.

I can tell you if I was fitting a shop with an unlimited budget, ratcheting screwdriver would unlikely make the list.

Snap on would be bringing down a Zeus+, so don't think the boss is gonna be saving much.
 

M635_Guy

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Thought Experiment #1
You are employed as a professional mechanic and your employer will buy you whatever tools and tool box you want with an unlimited budget. You get to keep the tools and box if you work there for x years and are productive.
What do you buy?

Thought Experiment #2
You win the lottery and want to set up your dream garage.
What do you buy?

While #2 is extremely unlikely (especially since I don't buy lottery tickets), #1 is almost worse, so I can't really wrap my head around it enough for an honest answer. I guess for #1 I'd just get all SO/Knipex/etc.

As for #2, I'd be the worst lottery winner ever, at least in terms of sheer excess or newsworthiness. I doubt my selection would be that much different for my tools, though I'd probably have an Icon/Strictly/etc. box/boxes and it would be in a pole barn or something like that. The real money would be in some cool old cars and nice-but-not-crazy places at Hilton Head and somewhere in Tuscany.
 

F-22

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Thought Experiment #1
You are employed as a professional mechanic and your employer will buy you whatever tools and tool box you want with an unlimited budget. You get to keep the tools and box if you work there for x years and are productive.
What do you buy?

Thought Experiment #2
You win the lottery and want to set up your dream garage.
What do you buy?
I'd primarily go with a mix of Nepros, Koken and PB Swiss. Snap On is very close on that list, I love the dual 80 and everything from them is very solid of course, but nothing wrong with nepros or koken ratchets either. There's one brand that is clearly the shiniest :)
I think I'd go with Snap On and Nepros for wrenches. Nepros for ratchets, Koken for extensions and sockets, PB Swiss screwdrivers and the knurled allen keys. I like all kinds of pliers so that would always end up being a big mess since some styles aren't made by all manufacturers. But knipex is great, as are nws, tsunoda, ips, Merry... Never tried the Snap On but they're surely decent too, just nothing different enough that would make me want to try (and their typical plier joint design looks cheap even if it functions well).

As for the boxes - I'd rather just comission a fabricator workshop to make me what I want. Screw the sheet metal structure, you really can't beat a welded square metal tubing frame (~2"x2" somewhat thick walled) in rigidity. And a big 2" thick plywood panel on top for a working area.
 
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