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Thinset squeeze up

stevelh

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Nov 1, 2010
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Indiana
I put down about 230 sqft of tile on concrete. Some of the thin set squeezed up between the tiles. Do I have so sand that thin set all the way down to the concrete or just to the bottom of the tiles before I grout? I have sanded some all the way down and found this might take forever to do it all!
 
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Kevro

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You don't have to go all the way down to concrete. But the sooner the better - the more time the thinset has to set up, the harder it will be to scrape it out.
 

Jack Olsen

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I'm not a tile expert, but a chisel or some kind of scraper might speed things up, although you'd have to be very careful. You definitely want it down below flush so that your grout has enough room to hold itself together.

For other people reading this who do some tiling, you want to get that stuff out while it's still wet. Those little triangle-shaped spade things do it pretty well.
 

slickgt1

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Oct 11, 2010
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Use a utility knife, and scrape into the joint. It will be easier than sanding, and the knife with break up the thinset. You really should not leave this "squeezed out thinset" in the joint. I clean it out right away. You need the space for grout.
 
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stevelh

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Indiana
Thanks guys. I guess I better get to sanding! I always try to research stuff I have never done, before I do it, but seems like there is always some little detail I miss. Oh well, it won't be near as bad since I won't be going all the way to the concrete.
 

slickgt1

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just scrape it. I don't know what you mean about sanding it. Use a utility knife and scrape the joint. You will clear it all in no time.
 
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stevelh

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This is what I have been using a grout saw to clean out the joint. Tiles has been down for a couple of days now.
 
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Azzurro

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Nov 20, 2010
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As per Stevelh and JackOlsen...there are several hand tools on the market designed for grout removal that will work via scraping the joint; visit a local Lowes or Home Depot etc.

High-polymer and or fast-set thinsets typically have a higher density therefore tougher to remove; Dremel tool works.

Our recommendation at MAPEI is that with cementitious grout is that at least 2/3 of the thickness of a floor tile is void (about 1/4" depth).

Hope this helped.

Lui
 
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PecosBill

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One thing that most people don't realize is, cure and drying time can affect grout shading. Depending on the color, this can be an issue. The problem with varying depths of a grout joint is that you can have variable drying time, and thus mottling. If you are not going to clean the joint out completely, then I would at least be sure to dampen the joint to surface saturation, which means damp, but no standing water. This will also help create a capillary bond between the thinset and the grout.
 
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stevelh

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Ended up buying the dremel attachment, and an extra 1/8 inch bit, to make things go faster. It works so much better than hand sanding it out. Just have to be careful on the corners as the bit wants to grab and follow around the corners.
 

slghmmr88

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Does your dremel attachment have the hood with tabs to help follow the joint? I like it to help control the bit, been taking the grout out of some travertine with 1/16 inch joints before tile removal so not to damage the surrounding tile when breaking it up. I have to be careful with travertine cause of soft veins that the grout bit goes through easily. Only 150 more tiles to go.:scared:
 

Azzurro

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One thing that most people don't realize is, cure and drying time can affect grout shading. Depending on the color, this can be an issue. The problem with varying depths of a grout joint is that you can have variable drying time, and thus mottling. If you are not going to clean the joint out completely, then I would at least be sure to dampen the joint to surface saturation, which means damp, but no standing water. This will also help create a capillary bond between the thinset and the grout.

Yes, with typical sanded/unsanded Portland cement based grouts however its not as evident with a "high-hydration" cement based grouts.

Products such as MAPEI's Ultracolor Plus, Custom Building Products' Prism and Laticrete's Permacolor offer a fast-set, are more consistent color, are higher density, and have an improved stain resistance.
 
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stevelh

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It does, but I found that it did not help much. The bit tracked along the tile depending on the direction I was going. Maybe I had the speed to high, idk. I just used that speed worked the best for me.
 

PecosBill

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Yes, with typical sanded/unsanded Portland cement based grouts however its not as evident with a "high-hydration" cement based grouts.

Products such as MAPEI's Ultracolor Plus, Custom Building Products' Prism and Laticrete's Permacolor offer a fast-set, are more consistent color, are higher density, and have an improved stain resistance.

It's pretty rare to find a homeowner using Ultracolor, but you're right. Those products also are a good option for a garage, as would be Opticolor or SpectraLock. Unfortunately, a retail customer is not going to find these products at a Big Box Store, nor do they usually want to spend the additional costs that these grouts incur.
 
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