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Third time's the charm - 40*50*12 build

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wisconsin hillrod

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Love the miter saw wheel set, nothing wrong with that! :thumbup:

Your long plywood wall looks pretty cool, with all that wood grain. Forgive me if you said earlier, but are you going to leave it like that, unpainted? Looks pretty cool the way it is.

Thanks! Just like my last garage…I’m at the point where I’m thinking that finished plywood looks real purdy… I ultimately decided to paint the old garage but I’m undecided at this moment.

Haven't seen this thread till now.. As another SW Wisconsin'er, nice place you have there!
Thank you! I see we both have ’69 Olds a-bodies too! I’ll have to read through your builds…they seem eerily similar.

Awesome build. Period.

So much cool stuff hanging out inside of it, too!

Thank you!
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Midweek update:

4 lights up. It is…BRIGHT!

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Old and busted…

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I’ve got 3-5 more to hang depending on what I want to do on the “storage” side of the shop. We shall see what is in store for the weekend. I’ve been going back and forth with a guy about a car/project. I’ll just say it involves a LS2/T56 and another Vortech blower. I may very well pass on it based on the seller's behavior... I passed on a Grand National with a turbo LS transplant a few weeks ago because the seller didn't' value my time whatsoever.

-Hillrod
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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This past weekend I got the rest of the lights up. I decided I wanted each side of the shop to have its own light switch. I dragged 4 9’ 2*8 boards up to use as an electrical chase way and walkway. I have quite a few of them left still. They were they old rafters from the garage I tore town.

I pushed cars outside to give myself room to work but we had some serious rainstorms coming Saturday night so at the last minute I stacked the 3000GT and my FRC up so they’d be out the elements and out of the way. Amazingly after 22 years the 3000GT still doesn’t leak a drop so it got the top bunk haha.

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Anyway, this was the result:

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Showing off my 20’ paintjob haha
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And without lights:

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As a bonus my Old’s cousin came to visit. (68-69) LeMans/GTO I think (was at the neighbor’s for Easter)

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Unfortunately two of the lights have issues. Of course the one over the hoist and the one over the garage door track... I called the manufacturer hoping they would ship me parts so I can fix it without taking the whole thing down, no luck. I was told to bring them back to Menards and exchange. I found that very odd they prefer that as I know Menards will just throw the whole thing out and chargeback the manufacturer instead of shipping me a portion of it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

-Hillrod
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Well…..been awhile. I am far too guilty of working IN the shop than ON it. I had left the Vette interior apart after putting it together last fall as I had a couple pending projects still:

New seats!!! I have struggled with the seats since I bought the car in 2013 and I gathered enough info to get it done. The sport seats are SOOOOOOOO much more comfortable but they are heavier (well worth it) and I needed to re-pin the harness on the driver’s side as well as repurpose the seat module (really just a relay board.) In addition I had to build a harness and find power/ground for the passenger side as the OEM seat was manual.

Original seats:
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Sport seats:
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The second problem was the stereo system…it is without a doubt the worst OEM system I have ever owned. I fully expected that at least one of the speakers would be blown but to my surprise they all (visually) were fine.

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I’ve got a closet full of car audio stuff from my younger days so I pillaged it for goodies. A friend hooked me up with some old school Orion subs and a nice Kenwood head unit. I only had to buy the sub box, 2 mounting kits, rear speakers, and a wiring kit. Less than $300 out of pocket. I absolutely love it and have been daily driving the car since getting it done!

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-Hillrod
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Again…I am far too guilty of working IN the shop than ON it.

A friend sent me a craigslist post for a 2003 Sierra 2500. I really didn’t need another motor but I thought it would be nice to have a 2003 6.0L as it has 317 casting aluminum heads (same ones I have in my Vette) and the short crank. In addition to that, it is drive by wire like my Vette so I’d have a spare petal and TAC module.

I borrowed a trailer and headed 2 hours north and picked it up. It was…sketchy hauling a ¾ ton truck behind a ½ ton but I made it. As soon as I got it up in the air I realized I made a mistake…it had iron heads. As I dug in deeper I discovered at some point the original motor was swapped out for a 99/2000 motor which doesn’t do me much good. Far as I’m concerned the heads and crankshaft are paperweights. Live and learn…never make assumptions. I’ll either sell it or save it and look for a crankshaft and heads.

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You have to take off the accessories to pull the engine out they said… Pulled it by myself with accessories and manifolds still on. Just had to twist it around a bit with my 4’ pybar. I didn’t even bend the cowl (not that it mattered).

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If you’ve got a really sharp eye you’ll catch the T56 I snagged for a song off Craigslist. It is from a 2004 GTO and it is destined for the Olds.

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Current project: new motor/trans for my buddy’s Firebird. Motor is coming out of my Olds (2nd one actually…).

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My wife is more outgoing than me so she keeps informing me most of our neighbors are convinced I run a speed shop out of our home. My wife keeps telling people it is just my hobby haha.

-Hillrod
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Anyway…I've been waiting to post until I had some actual SHOP progress to show. I took the day off yesterday and me and my buddy knocked out the biggest wall. (50*12). It is so nice to see that wall done!

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I'm here at crossroads again. Do I leave it plywood? Do I stain it? Do I seal it? Do I paint it? Do I have it painted? Anybody know how much it would cost on a sq ft basis to have a crew come in and spray the walls white? I'm not sure I have it in me to roll on that much paint and I don't trust myself with a paint gun.

Thanks!

-Hillrod
 

lieutenant

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Man, I'm really liking it just the way it is. That ply looks pretty darn good. Usually I would prime and paint it but you can't go wrong leaving it natural.
 

cros13

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So many awesome muscle cars at your house!!

Personally i think paint the plywood, I'm currently doing the exact same thing along my back wall, mainly so i can **** up my workbenches I'm building against it, and nothing will fall over the back.

Rudi.
 

Finallygotit

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I vote for paint. Much easier to clean if you spill something on it. Plus it will reflect any light and make it brighter in there. But then there's the warmth of the wood........:eyecrazy: decisions, decisions............

:beer:
 

zmotorsports

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I vote for paint. Much easier to clean if you spill something on it. Plus it will reflect any light and make it brighter in there. But then there's the warmth of the wood........:eyecrazy: decisions, decisions............

:beer:

^^Agreed. I would prime and paint white for reflectivity as well as cleanliness. I merely painted the OSB in my RV storage bay and although it doesn't look as nice as the taped and mudded sheetrock I think it looks better than bare OSB and it reflects the light very well.

I enjoy following along on your projects. Nice work.

Mike
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Man, I'm really liking it just the way it is. That ply looks pretty darn good. Usually I would prime and paint it but you can't go wrong leaving it natural.

Thank you and I agree!


So many awesome muscle cars at your house!!
Personally i think paint the plywood, I'm currently doing the exact same thing along my back wall, mainly so i can **** up my workbenches I'm building against it, and nothing will fall over the back.

Rudi.

Thank you and I agree!


I vote for paint. Much easier to clean if you spill something on it. Plus it will reflect any light and make it brighter in there. But then there's the warmth of the wood........:eyecrazy: decisions, decisions............

:beer:

I agree! I was pleasantly surprised by how bright the LED fixtures are so I’m not so worried about brightness anymore. But I will say I got some grease on the painted plywood at my old place and it was easy to wash off and then slap a fresh layer of paint to make it good as new.


^^Agreed. I would prime and paint white for reflectivity as well as cleanliness. I merely painted the OSB in my RV storage bay and although it doesn't look as nice as the taped and mudded sheetrock I think it looks better than bare OSB and it reflects the light very well.

I enjoy following along on your projects. Nice work.

Mike

I agree! And thank you!


See the problem here? I like it both both unpainted and painted. I went with BCX (sanded plywood) so that it will look similar to drywall once painted but being BCX it also looks fantastic on it’s own… And I know I can always go back and paint it later but once the ceiling and permanent workbench are in I'd rather not have to tape around it to paint.

-Hillrod
 

racestatus

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shops looking great!! I would personally paint it. its not a barn. it will be brighter and look more "completed" with paint
 

madoc1

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on the painting, -ou can rent spra-ers to make the job easier. looking good! what is the short crank difference on the ls? is it better somehow?

jim
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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shops looking great!! I would personally paint it. its not a barn. it will be brighter and look more "completed" with paint

Thanks! I think I’m starting to lean that way.


Great build and projects.

My 2005 Duramax & 2002 Camaro SS really would love a home for upgrades and tinker'n.

Thanks!


What's your plans for the ceiling?

White Menards steel, vapor barrier, and blow in insulation on top. Probably going to hang 2*4s 24” on center to screw them to.


on the painting, -ou can rent spra-ers to make the job easier. looking good! what is the short crank difference on the ls? is it better somehow?

jim


Yeah, I just don’t trust myself trying to lay it down flat. Thanks!

Essentially the “LS” engines have a .400” shorter crankshaft where the flywheel/flexplate bolts to than the gen1 and gen2 V8s. GM redesigned the 4l60e as did Tremec with the T56 to accommodate this but for whatever reason GM didn’t redesign the 4l80e transmission used in HD trucks nor the NV3500 5-speed you could order behind a 4.8L LS. I suspect this is because there was crossover in the HD trucks between the GMT400s and GMT800s and that the 4.3L (which is a gen 1 SBC sans 2 cylinders) was offered up through the GMT900s. Finally in 2014 the 4.3L engine was a “LT” engine. Anyway, GM initially chose to use a different crankshaft to fit to the older transmissions before switching in 2001 to using an adaptor piece bolted to the end of shorter cranks.
So if I want to use one of my 6L motors in my Olds with the T56 behind it I have to swap out the crankshaft with a shorter one.

-Hillrod
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Is this a new car to you? Good looking 4th gen, it'll look even better when parked on a new lift.
JB

*3rd Gen. :) Thanks! Just picked it up Saturday. I've wanted more or less that exact car since I was 16. Called my insurance agent: "Will this be replacing one of your existing cars?" "Absolutely not!" Haha.


Nice I like all the projects! I wonder if I could wiggle the engine out of my 05 GMC 1500 like you did? That was pretty cool!

Thanks! I pulled a 5.3 out of a 2002 1500 Silverado the same way when I first put the hoist in. It is either a tighter squeeze or I figured out a better technique because I recall the 1500 being more difficult than the 2500 but still got it done.
 

jbmatth

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I knew that was a 3rd gen, wow I feel dumb lol, the coffee must not have kicked in yet.

I really wanted one too when I was a teen, I had the cash for three different ones but dad never would let me buy them. (I probably would have killed myself so I should really thank him.) My favorite was one was a red '89 with a 400 SBC and manual trans. It was wicked fast and had huge rear tires that stuck out past the fenders. Maybe I need to buy one to finely live out that dream from the past too.
JB
 

C_F

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Nice job on your latest automotive acquisition! :thumbup: I've always liked those IROC Camaros. I remember when they were new, around here they were running around everywhere.
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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I knew that was a 3rd gen, wow I feel dumb lol, the coffee must not have kicked in yet.

I really wanted one too when I was a teen, I had the cash for three different ones but dad never would let me buy them. (I probably would have killed myself so I should really thank him.) My favorite was one was a red '89 with a 400 SBC and manual trans. It was wicked fast and had huge rear tires that stuck out past the fenders. Maybe I need to buy one to finely live out that dream from the past too.
JB

My Dad and I went halves on my 3000GT when I was 16 and I was always trying to talk him into upgrading to the twin turbo VR-4 version but he was having none of it. Dad’s do know best… My friends and I used to go out and cruise the strip every Friday and Saturday night and there was a kid with a (year unkown) blue IROC-Z and not knowing much about cars at the time I assumed because it had a v8 and a Flowmaster muffler it was super fast and I’ve lusted after one ever since haha.

I didn’t know if I’d ever own one because they generally aren’t as clean as I wanted and when they were they were a ton of money. This one fit the bill nicely so I finally have my blue IROC after 15 years.


Nice job on your latest automotive acquisition! :thumbup: I've always liked those IROC Camaros. I remember when they were new, around here they were running around everywhere.

Thanks! I used to see them a lot back in the early to mid 2000s (and owned 3 rusty shitbeat examples) but they slowly disappeared. Now they are seemingly rare enough you are either a collector or a redneck/hillrod holdout. I’ve been called both so far haha.
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Well more and more work IN the shop than ON it…

First I can’t stop looking at this pic of my car my buddy snagged...
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I sold my 355 SBC to my buddy since I’m going LS in the Olds so that had to come out.

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I came really close to buying a plasma cutter a decade ago but I couldn’t justify the $1,000 cost making $8 an hour. I’ve got some upcoming projects a plasma cutter would come in handy for and they can be had for well under $500 and I’m making a bit more than $8 an hour these days.

I saw a sale on Amazon for $300 and was willing to take the gamble. It came with a L6-30 plug but I’ve got an outlet and 50’ extension cord for my welder so I switch it around to the 50 amp plug I setup for. For the life of me I can’t find my welding helmets so I did a quick and dirty test run on a piece of ¼” angle iron with my eyes closed. I’m excited!

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-Hillrod
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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This is shop related!

I’ve been daily driving my Vette to work because it is so much fun. I reluctantly took my truck one Friday because I had an errand to run after work. I had run to Waukasha a couple weeks prior to get the IROC and I found myself in Eagle, WI (tiny little town) where I happened to have bought my first project car back in 2004 (a 1993 Eclipse GSX). Before I knew it I had something following me and I was finally able to play with the brake controller on my truck.

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The last time I had a car trailer it was a utility trailer that I reinforced and added trailer brakes, ramps, new fenders and a winch on. I used it to dispose of the last Camaro I owned that lost a battle to rust. This picture was taken on the way to the scrapyard November 2nd 2006.

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By 2008 the trailer was traded for a Snap On toolbox and the truck sold. I only went about 4 months without a truck but I went 11 years without a trailer. That’s all changed!

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The Olds isn’t going anywhere…but I’m out of room! So for now the olds is being stored on the trailer…and therein lies the problem. I kept the old trailer outside and it went from looking new after my “restoration” to **** within a year. I also don’t want to keep a trailer in my yard.

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This is my current parking situation:

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Sooo…it is time to get a storage hoist. The problem with wanting to store a car trailer in the air is they are very wide…slightly over 102” wide to be exact. Even the 12,000lb 4 post lifts have a max drive through of 102” and my trailer is slightly wider than that. A 7-9000lb 4 post is usually only good for 98”.

I’ve only found two 4 post hoists that will work. The Bendpak HD-7500BLX ($5500!!!) or the Backyard Buddy boat lift (~$6900!!!!!!!!!!). I don’t understand why these are 2-3x the price of a normal 4 post lift.

I started rethinking it and while I’d prefer a 4 post I’ve been contemplating another wide 2 post. The Atlas OH-10X (106” drive through) can be had for $2,545. My thought is I could fab up some beefy angle iron or square stock between the lift arms similar to how the Atlas Lawn Mower adapter works (http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Lawn-Mower-Adapter) and hang the trailer from that.

Is anyone aware of any other options? Thanks!

-Hillrod
 

C_F

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This is shop related!
My thought is I could fab up some beefy angle iron or square stock between the lift arms similar to how the Atlas Lawn Mower adapter works (http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Lawn-Mower-Adapter) and hang the trailer from that.

Is anyone aware of any other options? Thanks!

-Hillrod

I don't see why that wouldn't work. I assume you're planning on lifting the trailer by it's frame & leave the axles hanging?

Maybe wait for other opinions, but to me, it sounds doable.:thumbup:
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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I don't see why that wouldn't work. I assume you're planning on lifting the trailer by it's frame & leave the axles hanging?

Maybe wait for other opinions, but to me, it sounds doable.:thumbup:

Correct, lift up by the frame with axles hanging. No plans to store it in the air with anything on it. I'd probably put some rubber along on my "lift bars" as to not scratch up the trailer. After all it has far better paint than my Olds lol.

Another perk of the 2 post vs 4 post is that the trailer doesn't have to go up ramps to get up ~5' onto the platform. Just roll it flat along the concrete which would be great since I tend to use a trailer dolly or my Simplicity instead of trying to back them in with my truck.
 

ap2002

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very nice shop you have, I like your mentality about "LS swap" everything.! lol
im a big LS swap fan, but I wish I had half of your mechanical skills...
I have a 71 c10 with a LS swap...
I would of been mad about the 03 you bought with the 99-00 6.0 in it... what a bummer.
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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very nice shop you have, I like your mentality about "LS swap" everything.! lol
im a big LS swap fan, but I wish I had half of your mechanical skills...
I have a 71 c10 with a LS swap...
I would of been mad about the 03 you bought with the 99-00 6.0 in it... what a bummer.

Thanks! I had a 68 stepside for about 6 months before I realized it was a larger project than I will willing to undertake heh. What transmission are you running?

My own fault for not looking at the cylinder heads. Live and learn. I'm only into it for about $500.
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Greetings,

I had a lot of back and forth but decided on a Dannmar D-7X 4 post (with 220v motor) and a Dannmar D-10 CX. Both of these lifts are ALI-ETL certified. After reading through the instructions of Atlas, Dannmar, and Bendpak I had some serious suspicions that the Dannmar was the same lift as the Bendpak with minor differences. While chatting with Dannmar I was informed that Bendpak/Dannmar is a father/son relationship. They compete with each other but Dannmar uses old Bendpak designs.

Took the afternoon off yesterday and picked up the hoists from the freight terminal.

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Got home and started setting up the 4 post.

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I watched a few youtube videos of people putting 4 post lifts together. I don’t understand people’s aversion to breaking down the “skid” with it still on the trailer. I unbolted the top runway from the angle iron wrapped a chain around it with cardboard to protect paint picked it right up with engine crane set it down on furniture dollies. The columns and crossbars were light enough for two guys to pick up and put in place.


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Well geez that Dannmar 10k sure looks like my Bendpak 10k. The only difference I’ve spotted so far is the Dannmar isn’t adjustable width which honestly is better in my mind. Sturdier crossbar when it is one piece. I’ll report more on differences in a few weeks when I get it setup.

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To get the runways up I rolled them in place on furniture dollies and used a floorjack and a 2*4 to get them set on the far crossbar. Then up front used floor jack in middle + 2*2*9’ angle iron to pick up both sides at once and slide the columns under and set it down. Sorry for a lack of pics but didn’t want to leave it precariously dangling.

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The structure is together but I still have to run all the hydraulic lines, cables, lock arms, and power before I can test it.

-Hillrod
 

ap2002

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Thanks! I had a 68 stepside for about 6 months before I realized it was a larger project than I will willing to undertake heh. What transmission are you running?

My own fault for not looking at the cylinder heads. Live and learn. I'm only into it for about $500.

im running a 4l60e.... I have a 01 Silverado with a LQ4 and well built 60e, has hold up good for the past 10yrs.... a well built 60e can hold up well in a light vehicle but if you going high horsepower might as well do the 4l80e swap
 

C_F

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Your new 4-post looks great! It also looks very long in that last photo...like you could maybe park 3 Smart cars on there. :lol_hitti
 

Bodaway

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Hello, great thread.

I just read through it all since it is exactly the same size that I'm considering.

In post #6 it says you went with 40x50x14.

Did you end up with 12 foot tall walls or 14 foot?
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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im running a 4l60e.... I have a 01 Silverado with a LQ4 and well built 60e, has hold up good for the past 10yrs.... a well built 60e can hold up well in a light vehicle but if you going high horsepower might as well do the 4l80e swap

Glad to hear you’ve had good luck with your 4l60. They seem fine if you don’t abuse them too much.


Your new 4-post looks great! It also looks very long in that last photo...like you could maybe park 3 Smart cars on there. :lol_hitti

Haha thanks! I was thinking the same thing until I tried to put my truck on it…I think I could do it but the tires will hang off the sides. Even the wife’s 3 series takes up a surprising amount of space on it.


Hello, great thread.

I just read through it all since it is exactly the same size that I'm considering.

In post #6 it says you went with 40x50x14.

Did you end up with 12 foot tall walls or 14 foot?

Thanks! It is 14’ to the soffits. It is around 20’ tall at the peak. Originally it was 40x50x12 with 8’ garage doors. Then my Clearly salesman was like “Yeah that won’t give you 12’ clearance inside, we need to do 40x50x14.” (As the lower cords are very thick). I thought it would look odd with 8’ doors being that tall so I upped them to 10’. Then again at the last minute he says, “I was thinking about this more and you will need to use scissors trusses in addition to being 14’ to the soffits.

ANYWAY the building is 14’ tall to the soffits but inside where the trusses meet the wall it is just under 12’. I had to notch about 2” out of the corners of my plywood to fit around the trusses. With the scissors trusses it is nearly 15’ tall in the center. The scissors trusses required more roof pitch as well which raised the overall height. I believe the ceiling is 1/12 pitch and the roof is 4/12 pitch. I originally was going to go 2/12 or 3/12 roof pitch.

Sorry for the rambletron haha.
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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Wisconsin
Greetings,

So I continued setting up the 4 post. I will say that I was very pleased that the hydraulic cylinder had STEEL caps threaded in instead of the plastic ones my MaxJax had which were broken off. I had a couple stumbles which I blame on the terrible instructions but perhaps they are my fault. “Assemble as shown in the picture.” Picture is grainy and hard to make out details. In trying to put the safety lock release lever to match the picture I broke the threaded rod off inside the bearing piece. I broke an ez out and a tap trying to fix it so I had to find new bearings and threaded rod locally. After getting it all together I noticed it would *never* have worked the way the picture showed.

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I also discovered that while the instructions insisted the hoist couldn’t be assembled within a couple feet of the wall I found that I needed it to be 15’ or so away!!!! Since I’m a cheapass I didn’t buy the arms/casters that let you roll the hoist around I had to come up with a way to get the posts up on furniture dollies. I settled with jamming 2*4s between the locks and the post so the lift carriage couldn’t go up without taking the posts with it then jacking up each corner of the carriage to get the posts on dollies. With that done it was fairly simple to roll it forward 20’ slap in the super long front to back safety release bar then push it back in the corner.

With those issues taken care of I was left with a pile of leftover parts while still missing the cable stops that the instructions say need to be around the pulleys. I threw a temporary wire off of the nearest electric panel and tested it. It ran for quite a long time before it started lifting but it eventually did. I raised it up so I could level the 4 corners. One of the corners required almost all of the threads to be exposed to get it level. I later found that it had slipped off its pulley which fortunately caused no damage and was fairly easy to correct.

With that done I raised it all of the way to find that it didn’t have enough fluid to rise to the top lock. I added some more ATF and that got it all the way up but when I brought it down to the ground the fluid I added came spilling out of the cap/vent.

Decided I’d climb up and measure clearance and see how wobbly it was. 5’ to the truss from the top setting and it dances around a fair amount. I wasn’t able to accurately calculate that since the ceiling is vaulted so the height varies.

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Tried to put my truck up but it was too wide so settled for the wife’s car. (The rest of my cars stink so didn’t want them idling a bunch inside the shop haha)


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Only thing left was to see if the truck fit underneath with the car on the 2nd highest lock. I must have measured it 10 times because my eyes kept telling me it was going to hit but sure enough fit with 1.5” to spare!

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I contacted Dannmar today to address a few issues and thus far they have solved 1 of the 4. It seems the lift was redesigned and there is no mention of it ANYWHERE. I had to contract customer support and chat for 30 minutes before they sent me this (which explains the lack of cable guides and some of the extra bolts:

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Still working out the other issues:

1.) Got fairly scratched in shipping. I’m not hoping for much beyond some color matched paint.
2.) Can’t raise lift all the way up.
3.) Extra bolts left over ???


It is going to be at least a couple weeks (if not over a month) until I can stand up the 2 post. You will see why once I get going on it!


-Hillrod
 
Last edited:

C_F

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
9,675
Location
Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
That's strange that the lift won't go all the way to the top. Maybe they included an oil tank that's designed for a smaller lift, and doesn't hold enough fluid for yours?

Wow, an inch and a half clearance, huh? Tight! :D
 
OP
W

wisconsin hillrod

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
188
Location
Wisconsin
That's strange that the lift won't go all the way to the top. Maybe they included an oil tank that's designed for a smaller lift, and doesn't hold enough fluid for yours?

Wow, an inch and a half clearance, huh? Tight! :D

I called and asked and they said that's the right pump/reservoir. But I have suspicions I have the D7 reservoir not the D7X reservoir but I think they said it was the same.

I did some reorganization last night and got everything inside. Boat, two car trailers (one is on loan to haul hoists), IROC, truck, Olds, Vette. With the 2nd car trailer gone and the 2nd 2 post hoist up it is going to be awesome!

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The boat fits better than the truck did ha.

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-Hillrod
 
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