To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

This has me stumped.....

txturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
116
Location
Rosenberg,TX
Went out to the garage to change the hoses on the water heater and replace the dryer vent hose...unplugged it, drained the tank so I could move it over a little to get to the dryer vent hose. Got it done installed new hoses, filled it back up and plugged it in. Now it does nothing. It's a dual element....have power to the upper thermostat on both legs, power to both sides of upper element, power to lower thermostat and element but it's not heating..... Am I missing something?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

pstnbly

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
766
Location
So. Vermont
Turn off the power, disconnect the elements, test element resistance, if no resistance the elements are bad.
 

CNGsaves

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
Never seen a HWH 240v with a plug . . . .sure you have juice ??
. . .
. . . . Post up PIC's of what you've got.

:needpics:
 
Last edited:

gregtwojeeps

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
5,096
Location
Ky
Resistance test on water heater elements will not always give an accurate diagnosis of the elements condition ....as they can literally cook themselves and the ohmmeter/continuity reading will still read the burnt debris of the element...

The best way to test a electric WH function is to be sure there is proper voltage on the element's wire posts first. With the tank assured full of water by popping the pressure relief valve and seeing water discharge, turn the power on to the WH. No water = fried elements instantly if they are energized without being covered with water. Then carefully, and using safety gloves if possible because you will be working on a live circuit... use a clamp on ammeter around one of the elements power leads.....

If the element is pulling the specified amperage... it is working, if not, it is bad. I always just amp test the primary power conductors feeding the heater, if the element wires are too difficult to get the ammeter clamp on. Just use math to determine if one or two elements are working as I think two water heater elements working at the same time should pull about 22 amps or so (?) if I recall correctly. Good luck. JMO
 
Last edited:

MoonRise

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,029
Location
NJ
Went out to the garage to change the hoses on the water heater and replace the dryer vent hose...unplugged it, drained the tank so I could move it over a little to get to the dryer vent hose. Got it done installed new hoses, filled it back up and plugged it in. Now it does nothing. It's a dual element....have power to the upper thermostat on both legs, power to both sides of upper element, power to lower thermostat and element but it's not heating..... Am I missing something?

If you drained the water heater tank without shutting off power first, you fried the heating elements.

With no water, thermostat says you need heat (because there is no hot water on/near the thermostats) and sends power to the element(s) which are no longer submerged in water, thus the elements overheat and burn out.

If you did turn off the power to the water heater before draining it, and now the heater isn't 'making' hot water, something isn't working right. :lol_hitti

Check for voltage, then with power disconnected you can check for continuity of the various items in the circuit, with power back on you can check for amp draw (maybe, with a clamp-on type ammeter) on the heating elements.
 
OP
T

txturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
116
Location
Rosenberg,TX
As soon as I posted that I heard the upper element start heating. It's drawing 15 amps but the bottom isn't doing anything yet
 
OP
T

txturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
116
Location
Rosenberg,TX
Now the bottom one kicked on. I asked the GF it it has been heating good and she said no. So I guess the top one was already out. It was twisted like it had overheated at some point. I guess when I moved it the other decided to kick the bucket.
 

Milton Shaw

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,838
Heaters turn on the top element first to give quicker hot water and then when that thermostat is satisfied the bottom element comes on to heat the other 35 gallons of a 40 gallon tank for instance. Sounds like you had voltage with out water on the elements to start the problem.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Hawk

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
1,019
Location
Kannapolis, NC
When you filled the tank back up, did you make sure it was totally full before turning the elements back on? If you have a pressure relief valve you should open it and make sure before turning the elements back on. Otherwise you may have one element under water (and survive) and the other in an air pocket and have it fried.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
When you filled the tank back up, did you make sure it was totally full before turning the elements back on? If you have a pressure relief valve you should open it and make sure before turning the elements back on. Otherwise you may have one element under water (and survive) and the other in an air pocket and have it fried.

This^^^^, you have to open a HW faucet and let the water run until the air is purged. Then turn it on.

Now the bottom one kicked on. I asked the GF it it has been heating good and she said no. So I guess the top one was already out. It was twisted like it had overheated at some point. I guess when I moved it the other decided to kick the bucket.
But, it sounds like everything is OK.
 

nehog

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
7,935
Location
Jaffrey, NH
They would both have to go bad at the same time

No, only one element is on at a time.

As soon as I posted that I heard the upper element start heating. It's drawing 15 amps but the bottom isn't doing anything yet

It will as soon as the top thermostat says that half of the water is hot.

15 amps is too low for most water heater elements (they should be 4500 watts.) Your draw should be 18-19 amps. Did you use the correct element? If not, your water heater recovery will ****.
 
OP
T

txturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
116
Location
Rosenberg,TX
Never seen a HWH 240v with a plug . . . .sure you have juice ??
. . .
. . . . Post up PIC's of what you've got.

:needpics:
First one I've seen ......but it does have a dryer type cord that plugs into an outlet on the wall. It's working fine now though.
 

G_P

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
7,135
Location
Central CT
When you filled the tank back up, did you make sure it was totally full before turning the elements back on? If you have a pressure relief valve you should open it and make sure before turning the elements back on. Otherwise you may have one element under water (and survive) and the other in an air pocket and have it fried.

Bingo! Air gets trapped in the top of the heater and the upper element is wrecked. Open a faucet and purge the air before turning the power back on.
 

Hawk

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
1,019
Location
Kannapolis, NC
Open the pressure relief valve which is usually in the top. This will allow all air out, as well as testing whether or not your prv needs replacement.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom