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this months projects - land rover

top drive

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Apr 24, 2012
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294
Location
Aberdeen , Scotland
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meet my land rover ninety. 1987 model 19j engine

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stripping it down

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rotted out seatbox hidden under the bitumen

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bulkhead topcorners

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gone.

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cut out seatbox rot.

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making up new panels - the new battery box was 100 quid - so i repaired the old one for about 6 quid in sheet steel.

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quick coat of primer to preserve till i respray. for rebuild.

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making a panel for the inner structure of the bulkhead top corner on passengers side - the old fashioned way , hammer and vice.

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clamped in

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bit of stitching (im no welder)

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rear xmember rotten.

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gone !

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not even worth taking to the rag and bone man - 50kg of rust.

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new one welded in and test lift :D

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rear suspension coming off.

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cleaned up the rear end with a twisted wire wheel in the grinder and gave it a quick dust of tetrosyl chassis black

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old meets new

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other side

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drivers outrigger - rotted out.

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changed out the footwell , door post

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old rotters.

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passengers outrigger and tie back.

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passengers outrigger and footwell.

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doorpost rot

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drivers top corner rot cut out.

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makingnew panels - who can spot the accidental mistake here ?

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needs a good grind and a skim of filler - but its as good as my skills allow.

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looks ok from back here :d

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some one stole the entire passengers side.....

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offering up the new one to the chassis.

I did get it stitched up - so the chassis is ready to paint - unfortunantly some of the more complex bulkhead parts id ordered they sent the wrong ones out so im waiting on them- i need them to finish the bulkhead in situ before i remove it for painting - followed by the engine/gearbox/axel and what is loosely called front suspension - no wonder it used to drive like an ikea wardrobe - the shocks have zero damping.
 
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tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Oregon
Wow, that is a massive amount of work youve got done and still coming. I thinking your replacing 40% or more of this entire Rover.

Im a huge fan of the old Land Rover 90s (D90 over here). What engine is a 19j? Diesel?

Here in the states any decent D90 fetches $20k + regardless of miles. And a D110 even more. Keep us updated on your progress.
 

Todd.Brock

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Jul 15, 2008
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4,248
Location
Cincinnati
Great work! I would have run like hell from all that rot repair!!

Tarbell hit the nail on the head. This things are gold over here.

Most of my dream rovers reside in Maine- East Coast Rovers. Www.Ecr.com I believe. My wife and others don't understand why my "win the lottery" car would be a fully dressed D110.
 
OP
T

top drive

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Apr 24, 2012
Messages
294
Location
Aberdeen , Scotland
Yes i worked in bakersfield CA for a while and i told one of the yard techs i drove a land rover ninety and his jaw pretty much dropped , you must be rich he said. I said no its a land rover ninety not a range rover . You know the farm trucks and he just looked confused. I had to explain that in the uk a 90 /110 was designed and used primerily for farming and hard work


Anyhow , this ones not going to be a show room piece when its finished , im just making her solid again as a basis for a road tax vehicle trials car and punch challenge.

Will be getting a more powerful diesel engine , and a roll cake , longer travel shocks on new shock mounts anda few bits of protection + roll over bar.

I dont feel bad a out ruining a classic because it would have probably rotted away in someones yard if i had sold it. And its my truck , ive had it for years and hopefully for many more years after this effort.

Ive got a series 1 v8 carburettored discovery from 1991 - intro year as early as they come. Im tempted to weld the body up on that as its in surprisingly good condition apartfrom the boot floor / rear inner arches and front inner wings and use it as a road car but thats a later project , lets see how this one pans out
 
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T

top drive

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294
Location
Aberdeen , Scotland
"I live in Arizona and I hate rust. Good job nice work...keep it up"

I live in aberdeen scotland - i hate rust - but rust is a way of life for us.

ive had 10 year old euroboxes that look worse than this - yet land rovers have a terrible rep for rusting up here.

when i cut open the rear end inside looked really nice. - once its all welded ill get the shultz gun on the air line and get wax oil or ankor wax sprayed up the inside of it.

"You sir are a visionary and extremely ambitious."

or stupid - not worked out which yet - having looekd at a few replacement 90s with 10k budget it seemed that i could buy a new truck for 10k and be no better off with regards to the rust
 

MillerMav

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Feb 6, 2013
Messages
269
I have to give you credit for having more guts than me. I would have ran like hell from a project with that much rust and rot. Best of luck to you; it looks like you're headed down the right path.
 
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T

top drive

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Aberdeen , Scotland
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the shiny shinys arriving.

thats new +5 inch travel pin x pin shocks , galvanised spring seats for both axels , dropped pin x pin shock mounts (originals were eyelet top) and spring retainers. and repair panels for the tub around the seatbelt/chassis mountings.

also got + 2 inch travel springs and full poly bush kit.

Just gotta decide on the cranked trailing arms i want and thats the rear end suspension ready.

trying to locate disk axles currently - the rear is drum only (annoyingly it has great diffs but they are 10 spline and drum) and the front needs new swivels and the like - so trying to source a set of 24 spline discovery axles rather than pump money into the 10splines.
 

ezzzzzzz

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Jan 25, 2012
Messages
359
As an avid LR owner for +22 years I commend your efforts. I've not tackled quite the rust bucket you've gotten hold of but I've certainly replaced front horns, rear xmembers, outriggers and made those repairs to bulkheads. Today I only own 4 LR's, ('71 IIA highly modified LS1 powered rock crawler, '84 110 5 door out of Nigeria, '90 Range Rover and a '93 Range Rover LWB). Over there years I owned over 20 other LR's (series, Disco's and Range Rovers). These things are like boats only more addictive. My non-rover friends can only shake their heads while my LR pals drool over the huge parts stash. Enjoy!
 

Carves

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Oct 9, 2013
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459
Location
Central West NSW .. Australia
I feel for you ....

Stripped a Series 3 down to nuts and bolts back in the eighties.

Replaced most of the outriggers and rear of the chassis ... not much fab work as the parts were available new, ready to be welded on.

Firewall was OK thankfully ... so it and the rebuilt chassis went off and got dipped in gal.

Thinking it about now and reliving the nightmare through your photos,

.... twas an awful amount of work and and money I poured into, just an old Landy .. :lol:


Congrats on the rebuild ... Looking good .. :thumbup:
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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Location
Dorset. England.
Nice work. I would not tackle a rebuild myself let alone one so bad but plenty worse than that have been rebuilt. Makes me glad a previous owner put a new galvanized chassis under mine, my battery box is worse than yours though, both ends are gone.
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ezzzzzzz

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you took a car out of nigeria ? nigerias where cars go to die (ive done a few stints over there in the last few years )

Actually, it was built at Solihull and promptly shipped to that region to shuttle diplomats around. At it's end-of-life a World Bank employee brought it back to England for a restore. His wife wanted to redo the garage so it had to go. I bought it for a song a year before it could legally be imported so it was stored in Wales. It now sits waiting for it's turn on the project list. I'm dropping a '96 LT1/ZF auto/LT230 into it. It came 99.9% rust free with lots of nice extras. Beforehand, I've still got the finish the 4.0 and interior for my daughter's '90 RRC, complete the IIA (about 90%), decide if the RRC LWB gets a stock makeover or gets dropped onto a '96 F250HD 1 ton chassis conversion.... plus there's the SC'd stoker L6 for the '71 240Z, etc, etc.
 
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top drive

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Aberdeen , Scotland
1 month in it so far from when i decided to get on it.

Another 9 till i need it on the road with an inspection done.

Its supposed to be our wedding car .... Its been in our family as long as we have lived together that landy has.

And im not accepting tallented , far from it , im making it up as i go along. ill accept fearless diyer with the power of youtube and land rover forums.

Tomorrow a heap of bits are going to work to get a bath in some acid and derust them after ive pushed out all the suspension bushes using the press. ( i work in oilfield so some handy tools in the workshop have their cross uses)
 
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ezzzzzzz

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Ambition and tenacity will take you far. It doesn't hurt that there's a family connection either.
 

Lippyp

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Shropshire, UK
Looks about right for an elderly defender. I have never understood why the factory didn't galvanize the chassis from new.
 
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top drive

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because its made it to 25 years old without any special treatment , what life span would you like it to have ?

with a bit of care it lasts longer- still outlasts your average euro box.

modern ones are made with **** steel though - its not uncomon to see 5-10 year old ones crying out for new outriggers and crossmembers. its depressing - thats part of the reason i want to build mine back up rather than buy a new one.

pressed all the bushes out the radius arms and the rear a frame this morning on the 10 tonne press at work - all came out fairly easy bar 1 .... it broke the inch thick plate base on the press - not happy.

will have to cut it into 4 with the sawzall - hopefully relieving the stress will let it come out easier ....

its bathing in acid right now - and all looking better already for it.
 

dutchgray

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Looks about right for an elderly defender. I have never understood why the factory didn't galvanize the chassis from new.

I believe they did galvanize a few in the very beginning of series 1 production but it would be bad for sales if they lasted forever.
Land rover stopped building its own defender chassis in 1990 since then they have all be built by GKN, the modern ones are not as good, they definitely rust more and faster. Luckily there is a couple of places which make brand new chassis and you can also be get new bulkheads as well. The military ones mostly have heavy duty chassis under them so can be a good option.
 

ng8264723

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Aug 28, 2006
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Oakham MA
I usually brun the rubber bushings and after they are cooked I hammer chisel the metal portion out. I have always had trouble preshing them out. I drill a few holes and throw gas on the rubber and light a match
 

smokeysevin

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Aug 17, 2013
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Houston
I believe they did galvanize a few in the very beginning of series 1 production but it would be bad for sales if they lasted forever.
Land rover stopped building its own defender chassis in 1990 since then they have all be built by GKN, the modern ones are not as good, they definitely rust more and faster. Luckily there is a couple of places which make brand new chassis and you can also be get new bulkheads as well. The military ones mostly have heavy duty chassis under them so can be a good option.

Gotta love the aftermarket, since the 90s we have been able to build a brand new 67' camaro or 69' bronco which hadnt happend since they were new.


Sean


Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 

Lippyp

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I just seems that for a vehicle thats aimed at people who for the most part will be driving it around covered in cowshit with two sheep in the back galvanising the chassis would be a no brainer, plenty of cars out there have been part or fully galvanised from the factory.

My 1965 series IIa I think was on it second or third set of outriggers in places! A new galvanised chassis would have been nice, you can even get them all set up with coil springs rather than the standard cart springs. As to Series landrover bodies, drive around enough farms around here and you can dig out enough bits from hedges and bramble patches to build a whole new body. I know someone that has his chicken shed made out of two series LR roofs bolted together end to end!
 
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top drive

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"you can even get them all set up with coil springs rather than the standard cart springs."

not legally without submitting for an SVA you cant = Qplate a hoy.

more so the coil axels are wider than the bodywork so it looks ****.
 

Lippyp

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Yeah but when has that bothered the landrover boys? I've seen plenty of coil sprung series landies on an original plate and still tax exempt even though they've got a shortened Rangie or Disco chassis undeneath and a modern engine in it!
 

dutchgray

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its bothering them more of late.

they have been having their vehicles siezed and crushed.

Indeed, if you want coils, buy something with coils, otherwise leave the series bodies on series chassis, if there are kept in good shape with quality springs then they don't drive that badly.
 
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top drive

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Back in the office this week but managed to grab a couple hours in the workshop downstairs to use the press.

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There are folks reckon they can do this job with a hammer and drift or a vice... To them i say - 8 ton !

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Acid bath.

Will do after photos tomorrow.
 

Lippyp

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Indeed, if you want coils, buy something with coils, otherwise leave the series bodies on series chassis, if there are kept in good shape with quality springs then they don't drive that badly.

I don't have an issue with modified stuff as long as its done technically well and within the law. there are enough series landys around and languishing in farmers fields/barns that losing a few to be chopped up for specials isn't really an issue. I would guess its less common now that early defenders and discos are cheap enough to be a base for chopping about.

I owned a series IIa 88" myself and have had all sorts of 4x4's from a Suzuki SJ410, landrovers, jeeps, troopers and now my Blazer. I haven't owned a "normal" car for a good 13 years.

As to presses, you want to try removing the rear wheel bearing on a trooper, I had to give the halfshaft/hub unit to a mate to try and press out (he worked for Steve Parker Landrovers at the time) and he ended up having to build a frame in steel around it and weld it to the bearing and even then it took a 50 ton press to even start to shift it, they are put on hot and shrink onto the shaft which is also a ****** as you have to get it done in one move cos if you go too slow it shrinks halfay down the shaft and you're screwed!
 
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top drive

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mk1 2 or 3 ?

my mk2 Wheel bearings came out with the mapp torch and a 3lb mash hammer - but i wont say easily.

was lovely driving on 4 new wheel bearings as prior to this it was like driving a wheel barrow with a vibroplate turned on inside it.

i also had to do a steering rack replacement on that car what a horror - you have to take ALL the suspension apart as the clearance is half inch too small for the rack to fit through between the chassis legs and the subframe.

what was supposed to be a half day job - undo unions - undo track rod inner joints - undo 4 bolts drop it out . took the best part of 2 weekends by the time i took off the torsion bars , dropped the wish bones , removed the subframe and then the rack.
 
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top drive

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Clean enough to eat my dinner off of,

Pretty reasonably clean for minimal effort. few bits to clean up with the die grinder where the thick corrosion is stuck on but im happy

Get a few coats of blue on the suspension arms and chassis black on the brackets before rebuilding,
 

dutchgray

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I don't have an issue with modified stuff as long as its done technically well and within the law. there are enough series landys around and languishing in farmers fields/barns that losing a few to be chopped up for specials isn't really an issue. I would guess its less common now that early defenders and discos are cheap enough to be a base for chopping about.

I owned a series IIa 88" myself and have had all sorts of 4x4's from a Suzuki SJ410, landrovers, jeeps, troopers and now my Blazer. I haven't owned a "normal" car for a good 13 years.

As to presses, you want to try removing the rear wheel bearing on a trooper, I had to give the halfshaft/hub unit to a mate to try and press out (he worked for Steve Parker Landrovers at the time) and he ended up having to build a frame in steel around it and weld it to the bearing and even then it took a 50 ton press to even start to shift it, they are put on hot and shrink onto the shaft which is also a ****** as you have to get it done in one move cos if you go too slow it shrinks halfay down the shaft and you're screwed!

I don't have a problem with people who want to modify a series to coils properly and legally as its still on its proper chassis and its an awful lot of work, but there are not many that do things this way although leafs are fine for the road and I prefer originality over modification myself. Its the bung the tax exempt body on the chopped disco or range rover chassis I'm against.
Talking of presses I know a steam engine guy with a ****** big one who is cheap to use, we bent our Merlo forks recently and he bent them back for us, needed 108 tonnes of pressure.
 
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top drive

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Aberdeen , Scotland
quiet week so far on the land rover front - mainly due to the weather. its been flooding up here for the most part and both mine and the mrs dailys needed work. her timing belts just been done- and when i picked itup the battery had died. - changed the battery and had all manor of warning lights - reset them with lexia and the p0170 fuel trim malfunction keeps coming up - so its going back to the garage to get timing rectified - my one needs lower arm , arb links and the steering uj changing.

how ever in other news - as much as mrs top drive WILL kill me tonight when i pick her up i have all but collected a 200tdi 11L defender engine with all ancilleries - it better run sweet i've paid enough for a fender engine instead of a disco. Straight swap for the 19j with no customising at all.
 
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top drive

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Aberdeen , Scotland
Thats the 2.5td ready to lift out.

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Get the bulkhead welding finsihed and lift that off too tomorrow . Gear box out and pull the gearbox xmember.

Get the front axel and the shagged springs and shocks off , wire wheel the chassis and get it covered in a few coats of tetrosyl
 
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