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This should be fun! Replacing a large steam boiler in a small room.

Beerhippie

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I'm the Plant Manager at a small regional brewery. That means: Keep it going and/or fix it.

Yesterday, I noticed water leakage around our propane steam boiler. This is not good. We have a leak where the flue goes through the roof, but it hasn't rained or snowed in several days....

I pulled the burner unit out of the boiler to check the fire box for leaks--this is our second boiler since I've been here, and that was what killed the first.

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I grabbed a light and looked inside:

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Pieces of fire brick from the liner and... standing water on the floor. Really ungood.

So I need to replace the boiler--this type is not repairable--or at least the carcass of the boiler as everything else--controls, burner, etc--works just fine still.

Next problem: Columbia Boiler, who made both of the previous boilers, closed their doors in '24. Another Columbia WL 90 would fit right in there--basically plug-and-play, 'though the "plug" part takes a day or two--so we can get back to brewing beer ASAP. Yep, the boiler is essential to brewing and we can't produce our product until it's fixed.

Next next problem:

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The only doorway to the boiler room is just a standard door--no way that boiler fits through. We built the boiler room around the original boiler--planning ahead was discouraged back then.

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But this isn't our first rodeo. See the unpainted mud on the wall? We cut that wall out to use a forklift to replace the last one. Since the building is post-and-beam the wall is not weight-bearing, so easy-peasy--right?

Riiiight.

Next next next problem:

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Since we last replaced the boiler, we expanded the fermenter hall, which required adding another glycol chiller to handle the added load. The bosses at the time (13 YA) didn't think "How are we going to ever replace the boiler again?" was a serious question, and, for them it wasn't, as they don't work here anymore.

Fortunately, we still have our original chiller and the "new" chiller is plumbed independently of it, so I can "just" pull the wires, drain the glycol (fortunately, I also installed isolation valves) and move the chiller. We won't be making any beer 'til the boiler is replaced, so there won't be anything but maintenance load on the old chiller, which it can (probably) handle.

Now waiting to find out if anyone can find us a Columbia WL 90 boiler stuck in a warehouse somewhere.... If not, "just" a little more plumbing and wiring to do....

Stay tuned!
 
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brewchief

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Some boilers are available in knockdown configuration, bring it in in pieces and assemble in place.

Burnham claims that their C series is ideal for breweries, looks like a C-30 is pretty similar in ratings to your columbia, size wise not too much different but does look to be a bit longer.
 
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Beerhippie

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Some boilers are available in knockdown configuration, bring it in in pieces and assemble in place.

Burnham claims that their C series is ideal for breweries, looks like a C-30 is pretty similar in ratings to your columbia, size wise not too much different but does look to be a bit longer.
I've installed and maintained Burnham domestic boilers in the past and I'm familiar with their quality--which is very good.

After being tentatively quoted over $40K for the modern version of the Columbia--nearly ten times the price of the Burnham, I'm actually looking into one right now--if I can get it in propane. Ay, there's the rub....
 
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Beerhippie

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Damn. I've been researching Burnham boilers as they have numerous outlets selling direct. But the problem is, we have propane. We're a long ways from the nearest NG pipepline. Burnham doesn't seem to make a propane burner.
 

PCustoms

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Damn. I've been researching Burnham boilers as they have numerous outlets selling direct. But the problem is, we have propane. We're a long ways from the nearest NG pipepline. Burnham doesn't seem to make a propane burner.
There's got to be a conversion kit...
 
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Beerhippie

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I have the boiler completely unhooked from all systems and ready to tear out the wall as soon as I have a new one.

Sometimes, a fella's gotta get creative:

54414598173_3123ce364c_b.jpg

A large union, machined brass seat in black iron, needs to be taken apart. It hasn't been touched in 13 years. I got out the 24 and 36" pipe wrenches, but there's no room for anther person to hold the short wrench while I stand on the handle of the long one. What to do?

That worked just fine, thanks to the always handy Toyota scissors jack!
 
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Beerhippie

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With this being the second time replacing it, is it worth thinking about a different model?
I'm pretty sure what killed the boiler was galvanic corrosion. Most of the plumbing in the brewery and pub is copper and, regardless the old plumber's tales, there is literally no way to isolate the copper plumbing from an iron appliance. This is why your home water heater has a sacrificial zinc anode--so I intend to add a sacrificial anode to the boiler.

I'm trying to buy just the carcass or body of the boiler. All the other parts--burner, controls, etc--are still fine. Looking at the replacement price for the burner alone... $6-7K new, $2-3K used! I figure we'll save a lot of $$ by reusing the old parts.

I need to be able the swap the boiler out ASAP, so a direct drop-in is the best solution. Remember I have to take at least half our glycol cooling system off-line while I replace the boiler--we need that, too.
 

PCustoms

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Sounds like an easy 15 minute job!
For the right technician, why wouldn't it be?

the piping and regulators need to be installed either way.

The pressures, flow and combustion needs to be checked and adjusted regardless.

Swapping a jet or a few other components shouldn't be impossible.
 

PCustoms

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That example, unfortunately, is for models out of production since--at the latest--2020.
You hear back from a rep yet?

Gas is gas, just the density and pressures are different. Seems illogical that they would exclude a whole subset of customer
 
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nadogail

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I am a believer in the idea that there are no really dumb questions.
Could the Natural Gas burner be drilled to increase the size of the orifices to compensate for the lower BTU values of the Propane?
 

reader2580

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Stupid question: Did you contact PEP Boiler (pepboiler.com)? I read something that they are operating out of the same building as Columbia Boiler, and may be basically the same as Columbia Boiler.

They have a WLE-90 that is almost the exact same specs as your WL-90 nameplate.
 

brewchief

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I am a believer in the idea that there are no really dumb questions.
Could the Natural Gas burner be drilled to increase the size of the orifices to compensate for the lower BTU values of the Propane?
Typically propane orfices are smaller and the pressure is higher.
In this case on a large boiler like this a power burner is used, these boilers can be setup to run on oil or natural or propane depending on the burner chosen, in some cases you can even have the option to have the option to run both fuels, probably operating on the cheaper fuel source at the time.

This may be a situation where the possibility of adding a backup boiler may need to be looked at, adding a backup might be $$$ but if you can't make product it can cost $$$$.
 
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Beerhippie

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Stupid question: Did you contact PEP Boiler (pepboiler.com)? I read something that they are operating out of the same building as Columbia Boiler, and may be basically the same as Columbia Boiler.

They have a WLE-90 that is almost the exact same specs as your WL-90 nameplate.
What was Columbia is now Pottstown Eng. The WLE90 is what I'm trying to source as a carcass--without the controls and burner assembly--to try to save a few K$$. I wasn't aware they had a direct sales site, so I'll be checking that out--thanks!
Typically propane orfices are smaller and the pressure is higher.
In this case on a large boiler like this a power burner is used, these boilers can be setup to run on oil or natural or propane depending on the burner chosen, in some cases you can even have the option to have the option to run both fuels, probably operating on the cheaper fuel source at the time.

This may be a situation where the possibility of adding a backup boiler may need to be looked at, adding a backup might be $$$ but if you can't make product it can cost $$$$.
A back-up is my favorite way to make quick fixes. Unfortunately, due to the lay-out of our buildings and lot, we don't have room for a second boiler--if we did, we'd have one. I dream about turning some valves and keeping running while I fix the problem!

Of course, that goes for every piece of equipment we have. Did I mention that we are a small regional brewery?
 

reader2580

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What was Columbia is now Pottstown Eng. The WLE90 is what I'm trying to source as a carcass--without the controls and burner assembly--to try to save a few K$$. I wasn't aware they had a direct sales site, so I'll be checking that out--thanks!
I don't know that it is a direct sales site. They have a dealers link so you might still have to go through a dealer.
 

nadogail

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A printed circuit board manufacturer I once worked for rented a boiler on a trailer when it became necessary to replace their old Parker boiler.
 
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Beerhippie

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can you reline it with new firebrick? Many boilers can have that done. Maybe these folks might know a contractor that does that type work https://hightempinc.net/insulating-fire-brick/
This boiler is not apparently repairable. The firebrick is one thing, but it's a symptom--the firebrick is falling apart due to the leak into the fire box.
A printed circuit board manufacturer I once worked for rented a boiler on a trailer when it became necessary to replace their old Parker boiler.
We're looking into that. Once again, it turns out being way the heck and gone out in the boonies complicates things.

Latest quote I got, for the clad case alone, is $27K. That would be reusing the burner and all controls from the old one. You'd think it would be repairable for the price they ask.

Even if I can get to the part where the leak is, there isn't a certified pressure vessel welder within hours of here--like 5+ hours.
 

dave*99

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Coastal NJ
I am a believer in the idea that there are no really dumb questions.
Could the Natural Gas burner be drilled to increase the size of the orifices to compensate for the lower BTU values of the Propane?
I think the propane has higher Btu content than NG. Need smaller orifices and pressure adjustment.
 

T444e

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I have the boiler completely unhooked from all systems and ready to tear out the wall as soon as I have a new one.

Sometimes, a fella's gotta get creative:

54414598173_3123ce364c_b.jpg

A large union, machined brass seat in black iron, needs to be taken apart. It hasn't been touched in 13 years. I got out the 24 and 36" pipe wrenches, but there's no room for anther person to hold the short wrench while I stand on the handle of the long one. What to do?

That worked just fine, thanks to the always handy Toyota scissors jack!
I don't have anything relevant to add other than maybe get a 48" pipe wrench.

By the way, been there done that.
 

BrandonV

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Take-apart boiler is for sure the ticket here.

I'd call that generous in terms of space. I have a few elevators on the top floor of a building where there is a standard sized door as the only means of entry to the machine room and then a very steep staircase (think one where it's almost hard NOT to fall walking down) to a second level where the overhead traction and controllers live. I would not want to be the guy who has to get replacement equipment up there.
 

Aileron

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I have the boiler completely unhooked from all systems and ready to tear out the wall as soon as I have a new one.

Sometimes, a fella's gotta get creative:

54414598173_3123ce364c_b.jpg

A large union, machined brass seat in black iron, needs to be taken apart. It hasn't been touched in 13 years. I got out the 24 and 36" pipe wrenches, but there's no room for anther person to hold the short wrench while I stand on the handle of the long one. What to do?

That worked just fine, thanks to the always handy Toyota scissors jack!
Put two small shackles through the holes on the ends of those wrenches and attach a small 1/4 ton come along. Pull them together with the comealong.
 

Jackfre

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Take a torch to the lock nut on the union. As long as the 24 is locked in place it won’t care about the angle of the 36 pulling against it. Your best bet is to get a knock down Weil McClain or Burnham. The option is to open up that section of wall to take a package unit in. You can contact the companies and find out who their area reps are. They will help you out. You want a good guy on this. You should be seeing longer life out of that Columbia. If there is a system issue you need the right hand to pick it up.
 
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Beerhippie

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Well, time is our biggest enemy here, so to get back into production ASAP, we've ordered a bare hull for the Columbia. ~$30K. It should be here next week.

I have the old boiler almost completely ready to go out the door--once I make the door. Weather really ***** for having a five-by-seven-foot section of wall out... mixed snow and rain with driving wind....
 

reader2580

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Well, time is our biggest enemy here, so to get back into production ASAP, we've ordered a bare hull for the Columbia. ~$30K. It should be here next week.
I thought Columbia is out of business, or did you find some old stock?

If they lost more than $30,000 while being down they might want get a spare and store it somewhere.
 

mike93lx

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I thought Columbia is out of business, or did you find some old stock?

If they lost more than $30,000 while being down they might want get a spare and store it somewhere.
A 30k spare part that shouldn't need to be replaced for 25+ years is a hell of a bill to swallow for a small to medium business.
 
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