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This style of extractor any good?

RedneckWelder

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Cornwell truck had a set of these onboard (for about $65 or so, dunno if that's a good price for these, or if I can get them cheaper elsewhere. Researching now)

Anybody used this kind before? Any good?

http://www.angloamericantools.com/h...ls/rennsteig/dual_edged_screw_extractors.html

RN2601013.png
 
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mech-tech

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Yes those bite VERY well, plus you can actually feel them start to give if you are twisting too hard instead of them just breaking like other extractors. Only draw back is if the bolt is broken down into a hole, the angle of them wont let you go too far. A definite buy in my opinion :thumbup:
 
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RedneckWelder

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I'll pick up a set from either the Cornwell man soon or if I find them online for cheaper then.

Starting to build my arsenal of extractors. I just had not seen them before, so I had to find out more once I saw them.

Most of the broken bolts I have enountered so far are snapped off at the surface level. Sometimes the weld a nut to them trick work, sometimes it doesn't or I can't.
 

jethrob

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only drawback I see is the taper can put force on the bolt where you need it to spin

Rigid makes a set that isn't supposed to do this. Snap on guy has them as blue point. I have it but haven't had the chance to use it much.
 

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rlitman

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All the straight flute ones bite in pretty much the same way. They're less aggressive than the reverse spiral fluted ones, and that's a good thing most times.

The best value I've seen in these is with the square shaped ones from Enderes.
 

Shadowdog500

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only drawback I see is the taper can put force on the bolt where you need it to spin

Rigid makes a set that isn't supposed to do this. Snap on guy has them as blue point. I have it but haven't had the chance to use it much.

Tom Lipton from Oxtools did a YouTube video on these extractors. The first video was on something so loose that the drill tried to push the bolt out. He took some flack for that video and put it through a real torture test in these two videos. The broken bolt won.


When I get a flush broken bolt, extractors are the last thing I would ever reach for. I've seen it go downhill from there for so many people that I just commit my self to drilling the bolt out if other methods fail. It gets easier after you do it a few times.

Chris

80d370497a0d24d8d3320baf48c1fbe3_zps6b42bf99.jpg


Chris
 
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ImportTuner

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Tom Lipton from Oxtools did a YouTube video on these extractors. The first video was on something so loose that the drill tried to push the bolt out. He took some flack for that video and put it through a real torture test in these two videos. The broken bolt won.


When I get a flush broken bolt, extractors are the last thing I would ever reach for. I've seen it go downhill from there for so many people that I just commit my self to drilling the bolt out if other methods fail. It gets easier after you do it a few times.

Chris

80d370497a0d24d8d3320baf48c1fbe3_zps6b42bf99.jpg


Chris


Tom got his **** kicked .. really good video though. Thanks for the link.
 

AlexNGreen

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One of the best things for broken fastener extraction is left hand drill bits. Make sure to push them hard so when they want to break the chip they will start to turn out the fastener.
 

Mohawk Dave

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These are usually used on/intended for softer metals....Grade 5, Brass, even glav and black pipe.

Go up to SS and Grade 8, spiral extractors should be used.

That being said, I have all extractors, and the Rennsteig ones of these...and they kick total ***.
 
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RedneckWelder

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These are usually used on/intended for softer metals....Grade 5, Brass, even glav and black pipe.

Go up to SS and Grade 8, spiral extractors should be used.

That being said, I have all extractors, and the Rennst
eig ones of these...and they kick total ***.

I forgot to mention that. Probably 95% of the bolts I deal with are Grade 8.
 
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Ign

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One of the best things for broken fastener extraction is left hand drill bits. Make sure to push them hard so when they want to break the chip they will start to turn out the fastener.

This. 99% of extractors are over-priced gimmicks and are so hard that WHEN they break you're really screwed (pun?). LH drill bits are readily available (quality from any machinist supply), require virtually no special technique (assuming you're capable of operating standard drill bits) and you have virtually nothing to lose; worst case you're removing meat from the center of the broken fastener which will still allow you to wedge an extractor in there if you absolutely have to. But the large majority of the time the heat generated from drilling allows the leading edge of the bit to hook up and spin out the broken fastener.

In cases where this does not occur I still keep drilling progressively larger w LH bits until I can either re-tap, tap one size larger, or thread insert. In short, I never use an extractor. Now broken taps.....that's another story!! I'm a machinist, for whatever that's worth. But personally I believe "EZ-Outs" and the like are one of the greatest myths ever perpetuated upon the mechanical community! Flame suit on! I understand the question was not about original EZ-Outs but I have no need for expensive proprietary extractors when LH drill bits work so damn well and are so damn simple.
 
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