Thoughts on 24x50

[GSX678]

Hi all,
I am looking for thoughts on my early planning ideas.
I want to build a 24x50x12 garage.
It will have a mono slab 6" thick with the footers 12" wide and 36" deep.
I am in North East Ohio so 36" is the frost line.
I am planning a 12" high poured stem wall.
Walls will be 2x6x12. Looking for just under 13' of ceiling height.
I will be adding a lift down the road towards one end.
30' 4/12 or 5/12 trusses so I have a 6' overhang on one side for semi dry storage. Truss ends would be supported by 4x4 or 4x6.
One 12x10 overhead door centered on the 24' end and two 36" man doors on the long side at each end.
I have thought about another overhead door on the other 24' end.
I have also thought about radiant floor heat. At least installing the tubing when the slab is poured.
Exterior will be 5/8" plywood with vinyl siding.
Roof sheathing will be 1/2" plywood. With steel roofing.
No windows and the doors will be a steel frame commercial type.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[holdover]

Bigger is always better if you have the room and the proper zoning to allow it. If you went 40 X 50 you would have more options for working and storage space. Also if you use scissor trusses you could get you height for a lift.. Mine is 40 X 60 walls are 10' 4.5" high the rear half is scissor trusses 5/12 outside 3/12 inside, 15' clrnc in the center. I have two 4 post lifts one in the center I use as a working lift and one on the side for storage and double stacking, although it goes up high enough to work on a car. I also have a dedicated project area on the left rear side. The benefits of 40' wide are obvious with this layout. It fits 11 vehicles. I suggest one main door at least 18' wide and as tall as you can make it. And don't forget the insulation! Good luck

 

[GSX678]

1,200 is the max sq. Footage allowed.
I would love to go bigger.
I have looked a little at the scissor trusses.
Thanks!

 

[steel 35]

24= big mistake.

 

[James-W]

24= big mistake.

Why is 24 a big mistake?

 

[Mikeske]

Why is 24 a big mistake?

I would investigate a 28 X 46 instead as 24' width does not really allow much room on the sidewalls of the garage. Properly sized that way you have a little extra clearance to park vehicles side by side. My steel pole garage is 28 X 48 and it allows side by side parking and a work area next to the vehicles. With the 24' width you do not have the space where it is most needed. Looking inside the attached picture with my old 1966 Ford Falcon it allowed me to put the room to the best use. You do want the extra width and I realize that zoning restrictions are what they are but if you ever want to work on a vehicle in the garage the extra width will be needed.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Consider transom Windows. Natural light is a good thing, yet they are small and high to deter theft (slightly).

 

[merc66rkm]

24= big mistake.

I agree. 28'x42' (or 30x40) gets you under your 1200sf limit and would be a much better usable configuration. You will thank yourself later. x2 on the window idea as well.

 

[Cobra5150]

24= big mistake.

X3
Mine is 24' deep and a full size truck barely fits. If there was one thing I would change is make it a 26 at minimum or preferably 28 or 30.

 

[Jlbc212]

Another vote here for 28x42. I had a 1000 sqft zoning limit for a detached garage. My garage is 28x36. I have two 12ft wide doors on the 36ft side. I don't particularly like having the doors on the non-gable end, but the site dictated the garage layout. When I bring my F350 into the garage there's comfortable working room, front and back.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Hi all,
I am looking for thoughts on my early planning ideas.
I want to build a 24x50x12 garage.
It will have a mono slab 6" thick with the footers 12" wide and 36" deep.
I am in North East Ohio so 36" is the frost line.
I am planning a 12" high poured stem wall.
Walls will be 2x6x12. Looking for just under 13' of ceiling height.
I will be adding a lift down the road towards one end.
30' 4/12 or 5/12 trusses so I have a 6' overhang on one side for semi dry storage. Truss ends would be supported by 4x4 or 4x6.
One 12x10 overhead door centered on the 24' end and two 36" man doors on the long side at each end.
I have thought about another overhead door on the other 24' end.
I have also thought about radiant floor heat. At least installing the tubing when the slab is poured.
Exterior will be 5/8" plywood with vinyl siding.
Roof sheathing will be 1/2" plywood. With steel roofing.
No windows and the doors will be a steel frame commercial type.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian

I would investigate a 28 X 46 instead as 24' width does not really allow much room on the sidewalls of the garage. Properly sized that way you have a little extra clearance to park vehicles side by side. My steel pole garage is 28 X 48 and it allows side by side parking and a work area next to the vehicles. With the 24' width you do not have the space where it is most needed. Looking inside the attached picture with my old 1966 Ford Falcon it allowed me to put the room to the best use. You do want the extra width and I realize that zoning restrictions are what they are but if you ever want to work on a vehicle in the garage the extra width will be needed.

If I am reading correctly, both posts are what I call a "tandem" garage which is entered from the smallest side. Most vehicles are less than seven ft wide so you would have three or four feet between and on both sides of each vehicle. Wouldn't that be enough room to keep a few toolchests beside one vehicle and allow foot traffic? Other than brake work and rotating tires, wouldn't you do most work in the 24 X 32 space in front of the two cars?

I get five years and two years from a set of brakes and rotate tires once a year. With that frequency, I think I would just pull one car out.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Another vote here for 28x42. I had a 1000 sqft zoning limit for a detached garage. My garage is 28x36. I have two 12ft wide doors on the 36ft side. I don't particularly like having the doors on the non-gable end, but the site dictated the garage layout. When I bring my F350 into the garage there's comfortable working room, front and back.

So, you have what I call a "double" garage and the cars enter from the long wall? I am guessing each overhead door is 4.5 ft from the building corners and you have about a 9 ft clear area in front of your truck? You have about a 7 ft clear area on each building end and about 8 ft between vehicles?

That sounds like an ideal space to work on cars. I guess you pull both vehicles out for welding up trailers or building gazebos?

 

[JamesW84]

double check your soil bearing capacity. 12" footers don't sound very wide to me.

If you could go a little bigger on the overhang, I would look at that too. My lean to will be 20x64 hanging off of a 32x64 shop

 

[GSX678]

The cars will enter from the 24' gable end. The 12' door will be centered. I want a 12' for pulling trailers in and out easily.
The overhang will be on the long wall and mostly for firewood and such.the garage will face north and the overhang will be on the east side. The weather usually comes from the west here.

 

[GSX678]

My lot is 101' wide so the front will be the smaller dimension as well as the gable end. I don't want to take up 1/3 of the yard either.
By the time I add the 6' overhang I'm pretty wide.
I could do 28 wide with a 6' overhang but that would be the max I would want to go.

 

[Streetbu]

I actually have that exact size garage. Well kind of. My actual garage is 24x34 and I built a 16' lean to off the end making it 50' long. My garage door is on the gable end. This makes it a tiny two car garage basically with a decent size end spot of 16x24.... I absolutely LOVE having it 34' deep. I've pulled a crew cab regular box truck in, put the tailgate down, closed the garage door, and have 3' between the garage door and tailgate, and another 4' between the front bumper and my work bench that's 30" deep. If I could build a different shop, I would go 34' deep and have single 9' or 10' doors for each bay. As is now with it being 24' wide it's really almost too skinny for two vehicles if you put anything against the walls...

 

[steel 35]

My lot is 101' wide so the front will be the smaller dimension as well as the gable end. I don't want to take up 1/3 of the yard either.
By the time I add the 6' overhang I'm pretty wide.
I could do 28 wide with a 6' overhang but that would be the max I would want to go.

Glad to see your coming out of it

 

[jetnow1]

I have a 24 by 30, doors on 24 end. If I could have gone even 26 wide it would have made a big difference, 28 would have been even better. Yes you can make it work with 24 but remember you lose over a foot to the width of the walls and trying to bring anything past the vehicles without scratching them
is a hassle, and I cannot imagine doing it with the posts of a lift in the way.
Would love to have one to try though.

 

[CraigStu]

Could you use a standard 16ft wide door? I ask because we used to have a 24x24 double car garage. Usually only one car parked in there. But, occasionally, when bad weather was coming, we could get both cars in. One car was small so I pulled it fully forward and could have the snow thrower behind it.

 

[bepjrfan]

Definitely would recommend going 28' Wide. I had the same zoning restrictions when I built my garage. 1200 square feet max. Ended up building 28x40 and am incredibly happy with it. Why wouldn't you go with a 16' door vs a 12' door? Alot more room for taking equipment out of the garage while a vehicle is parked in there with a 16' door vs a 12'. No room to get a snowblower or mower out with the narrower doors.

 

[lakeroadster]

Hi all,
I am looking for thoughts on my early planning ideas.
I want to build a 24x50x12 garage.....
One 12x10 overhead door centered on the 24' end and two 36" man doors on the long side at each end....
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian

Hey Brian,

Do a simple grid paper layout of the building, with your future lift.

Then do cut-outs of the vehicles you want to maneuver into and around inside the building.

I think you'll come to the realization pretty quick that a 24 foot building won't work well with a single overhead door just on one of the gable ends.

At our first 2 homes we built 24' x 32' buildings and had a single and a double overhead doors on the side.. that works. Still not ideal, but work's.

 

[Jlbc212]

So, you have what I call a "double" garage and the cars enter from the long wall? I am guessing each overhead door is 4.5 ft from the building corners and you have about a 9 ft clear area in front of your truck? You have about a 7 ft clear area on each building end and about 8 ft between vehicles?

That sounds like an ideal space to work on cars. I guess you pull both vehicles out for welding up trailers or building gazebos?

I have a 3ft wide "man door" also on the long wall of the garage. Ideally this door should be on a sidewall, but my garage is built into a hill. But this space to the side of the vehicle bays gives me plenty of room for cabinets, tool chests and workbench.

 

[steel 35]

Why is 24 a big mistake?

I guess the last two attached garages I have had, for 30+ years has given me the same Ideas other have posted!

One more thing to add if you do a layout with cars inside; make room for the open car doors as well, some day's they need opened where the boxes are.

My shop 25' X 36' X 10' walls 10' door 2' from the wall on the little end; Lots of Experience. My limiting factor for the 25' was a set back, and the 36 was she wanted a little grass

 

[00_chevy_2500]

Agree on more wide than 24 if you want to squeeze a vehicle/mower behind a parked vehicle. My garage is 24 x 36.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I have a 24x50 with 2 16' doors on one 50' side and 1 16' door on the opposite 50' side. The only time it is a pain is when I want to work on my pickup. I have a 2' deep cabinet along the 50' wall (in the work bay) leaving only 22 foot depth for my work bay which makes working on the pickup hard. Didn't have a pickup when I designed the shop. I would go with at least 1 16 foot wide overhead door. I did my shop in vinyl siding, but had to redo it after about 8 years due to mold on the siding. I changed to barn metal and am much happier. Vinyl siding does not hold up well.