It is an interesting thing. For me, I don't have a CAT dealer within an hour in any direction, so Williams makes more sense. If I lived near a CAT outlet, I am sure the price savings would be more than worth it.
Thoughts on a new socket set
- Thread starter jasonrohrer
- Start date
Keep in mind the CAT offerings are not always the same as you'll find from Williams or Snap On.
Sometimes they are smaller sets, skip or don't include sizes, or don't even sell certain types of sockets.
I'm aware. I have found that the Williams offerings are almost always more complete, with fewer skips and more options. I do wish they had better stamping....but that's my only complaint.
I agree. The Snap On stamping ***** and Williams is even worse.
PittsburghTim
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2017
- Messages
- 57
When I gave my son all of my 80s vintage Craftsman sockets and wrenches when he was starting out as a commercial HVAC tech, I replaced them all with Proto sockets, ratchets, and ratcheting combo wrenches. I purchased them all, using a 20% off deal from Zoro. I also got Wright metric and SAE combo wrench sets from HJE as you frequently run into situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. They are an absolute joy to use compared to my old Craftsman tools. They too, will probably become my son's tools, but hopefully not for another 20 years or so. 
Tynee
Well-known member
Probably not quite. I bought one of these to store screwdriver bits in. I don't think it's deep enough to handle sockets or a 3/8 ratchet. Would work great for 1/4"
finn
Well-known member
Refer to the post referring to “before the Chinese bought Craftsman”
What’s wrong with husky sockets? I have snapon, proto, harbor freight, husky, gearwrench, and craftsman tools(old craftsmen tools). I have two Home Depot stores and two harbor freight stores less than 10 minutes from me. I haven’t broken husky tools any more than other brand name tools. I can walk in and walk out of home depot with a new tool if one breaks. They have a lifetime guarantee. I like that option when I’m trying to finish a job and break a tool. Husky new bite wrench sets have done well for me. I have no complaints with husky tools.
I think they guy just wants some nicer stuff. I have a box full of Snap On, Proto, Matco, and Williams because....I wanted nicer stuff and being a grown up means I can do that if I want.
nadogail
Well-known member
The value of a tool to me is directly related to my ability to get the work I want done by using it. As a result, my tools are a mixed bag from various sources. A wrench that works and causes no harm is a good wrench.
The only reasons I can find to want a set of matching prestigious tools would be to satisfy my personal vanity or to impress others.
The only reasons I can find to want a set of matching prestigious tools would be to satisfy my personal vanity or to impress others.
What’s the definition of nicer? Is paying $400.00 for a set of snapon wrenches nicer? Do they do the job better?
Here is a craftsman and proto wrench next to a gearwrench and husky. The fit and finish of the husky and the gearwrench is better than proto and craftsman. My craftsman and proto set are over thirty years old( made in U.S.). The low end Gearwrench and husky fit and finish are way better than the proto and craftsman. Some people forget how bad American made tools 30 years ago looked compared to today’s standards. Low end tools today are way better than American big brand name tools 30 years ago. I have a snapon set that look like the craftsman and proto, I couldn’t include a wrench in the photo because my kid has them working on his car.
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Exactly! I need tools to get work done, I don’t care what they look like or who made them.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
Time for a dirty secret, but SAE can be had cheap used on FBMP or CL, like pennies on the dollar. But the SAE stuff from someone's grandpas estate and put the balance into a good snap on ratchet and metric socket set of your choice. Also, a toolbag or something similar beats the hell out of most of the cases out there, Ko-Ken aside.
Junkdrawer Dog
Well-known member
Not to sidetrack, but that little metric set was my first tool purchase in 1969 at age 13. I used money from my job feeding cows. They were needed to work on my 1965 Yamaha YG-1. Santa Claus followed up with a small set of Craftsman metric wrenches in a plastic pouch. And with those, I was off and running. I'll shut up now.
Depends on where you are....Used SAE sells just as fast as Metric here, and there is very little price difference. Ag and Oil is still very much SAE centric.
As far as "nicer," everyone has their definition. For me, I prefer US made tools while fully acknowledging that comparable quality can be had off shore. Like anything, the law of diminishing returns applies to tools as well.
I like having higher end truck and industrial brand tools simply because I like them. Could I do the same work with Husky and Pittsburgh? Sure, but if I don't want to, why should I? Why should the original poster? I prefer to wear nice shoes, carry a nice pocket knife, wear a decent watch, and use good tools to fix things.
Tynee
Well-known member
Have you considered Icon? I can't remember if you're trying to stay domestic or not, but the Taiwanese tools are really hard to beat in the value proposition department.
Going against the grain here, I would look for an SK 3/8 set that is made in the usa, sae and metric. If the set you find has a ratchet w/a green stripe on the handle is is NOT USA. The prices are cheaper on the green handle, there is still stock around of the USA product but it's gone up. Fortunately not to snap on extremes. .
I've had mine for over 40 years, not everyone likes the ratchets, I do tho. but one could always buy a snap-on ratchet and be ahead of the price game.
CAT is another option, but you want a kit that is contained, buy a small hip roof box and wala
You made a comment about the cost is not important if so just spend the snap on dollars, if you got by with what you've had anything would be like trading up to a Rolls Royce.
I've had mine for over 40 years, not everyone likes the ratchets, I do tho. but one could always buy a snap-on ratchet and be ahead of the price game.
CAT is another option, but you want a kit that is contained, buy a small hip roof box and wala
You made a comment about the cost is not important if so just spend the snap on dollars, if you got by with what you've had anything would be like trading up to a Rolls Royce.
My father was born in 1918, he served in WWII. I am almost 67 years old but I remember in either 1974 or 1976 the ol' man purchased a Mercury Capri that was mostly metric and he said before he dies there will be no SAE. He died in 1992, I still encounter an SAE need on occasion.
I do not need to hear your argument about how some metrics are interchangable with SAE..I like having a set of each.
Didn't anyone tell you the old Craftsman tools were junk, and not worth using. Me neither. I bought Craftsman metric when I bought my first VW Beetle and did a of work with them. I guess I didn't know any better.Not to sidetrack, but that little metric set was my first tool purchase in 1969 at age 13. I used money from my job feeding cows. They were needed to work on my 1965 Yamaha YG-1. Santa Claus followed up with a small set of Craftsman metric wrenches in a plastic pouch. And with those, I was off and running. I'll shut up now.
richfinn
Well-known member
Some good discounts over here if you decide to go with Ko-ken (I can vouch for them as a UK customer)
Koken 3286Z 3/8" Z-Series Socket Set 21pc | UKtools
UKtools Professional Hand Tools, Specialist Socketry from Koken Tools, Facom, Britool, Gearwrench, Signet, Trident, Elora, Knipex, Bondhus and more
www.uktools.com
Koken RS3400A/9 9 piece 3/8".Dr 6-point standard socket set | UKtools
UKtools Professional Hand Tools, Specialist Socketry from Koken Tools, Facom, Britool, Gearwrench, Signet, Trident, Elora, Knipex, Bondhus and more
www.uktools.com
Koken TRZ34760-20 3/8" Drive. 20-Piece Z-Series Set | UKtools
UKtools Professional Hand Tools, Specialist Socketry from Koken Tools, Facom, Britool, Gearwrench, Signet, Trident, Elora, Knipex, Bondhus and more
www.uktools.com
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Wright, Proto and Williams are all nice, domestic sockets. Personally, I'd go with Proto but you won't go wrong with any of the three mentioned. Imported brands abound. Some excellent, some incredibly crappy and everything in between. The choices we have make a simple purchase quite complicated if we let it.
Hohn
Well-known member
It wouldn't be GJ if we didn't have 3 pages of debate over something the OP didn't even ask about, LO
Oh boy, so much overthinking in this thread.
It's really simple:
-- buy some Wright impact sockets on a strip (they come on the strip) from HJE
-- Get the ratchet(s) you like.
-- Throw it all in a small bag.
Plastic cases are a pain. The cheap ones have molded hinges that quickly break. The nicer ones have hinges that last, and instead you'll always be fighting with a case that somehow manages to be so tight you can't get the sockets in and out while being loose enough that they spill inside the case every time you open it.
Hard cases just don't work as well in daily use. Strips in a bag just work way better. If you wear out a strip and the sockets start falling off, a replacement strip is easy and cheap. And it won't invalidate your entire setup because you didn't build your packout around a particular case.
Personally I would recommend Wright impact sockets (shallow and deep); they are superior sockets and they come with excellent strips. Then just buy whatever drive tools you prefer. Because you wisely bought impact sockets, you won't need to deal with yet another socket set when you move to power tools in air or battery. Your one-time investment is still relevant.
Wright impacts are much more durable than other impacts, so the main appeal of chrome (it's harder and last longer) is gone. Plus you don't have to worry about a finish peeling or cutting you. And the impacts give better grip with oily hands.
I wish years ago someone had given me the advice not to waste money on chrome sockets. Until and unless you wear out a Wright impact socket, you don't really need chrome.
Yes, the impacts are thicker wall. You will almost never encounter a time where that matters. When and if you get to where that does matter, buy a Chrome set and congratulate yourself on years of cost avoidance by putting off an expense you didn't need. Or just buy a cheap-yet-decent chrome set like the ICON or TEKTON sets, put them on a strip and toss them in your bag.
For bread-and-butter, daily driver type usage, IMO there is no equal to the Wright impact sockets for all uses-- impact tools or hand use.
I've been limping along for years with this cheapo Husky 6pt 72-tooth socket set:
I suppose it has served me well, but it gives me that cheapo feeling, and it isn't a tool that I'd want to proudly pass down to my great grand children. Also, the "case" is kinda wearing out, and the larger sockets keep falling off the plastic plugs that hold them. Bounce bounce bounce, another heavy socket tumbles across the basement floor. The cross-bars, shown in this picture, were removed long ago (and I don't think it would be practical to keep them on there all the time).
Time for a real 3/8" socket set!
Forever, I imagined that I'd eventually get a Wright Tools ratchet and socket set. And YES, they have lots of 6-point sets, which is what I want. But two things hold me back:
1. Their sets are all either SAE or Metric. I only need one 3/8" ratchet, so I guess I could get an SAE ratchet set and a strip of metric sockets as an add-on, but it won't all fit nicely in one box.
2. Their ratchet doesn't look like it has changed design since the 1950s. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, maybe... but what about super-low back-drag available in more modern designs? Like, if this is the last ratchet I ever buy, I want it to be buttery smooth, etc.
Point (2) above leads me to Japanese sockets, like Koken or Nepros.
But I'm finding their support of SAE sizes to be quit limited. The Ko-Ken Z series doesn't even have an SAE set, and Nepros only has one tiny SAE set:
3/8"sq. Socket Wrench Set (6pt.) SAE (11pcs.) with Steel Case
Portable Tool Case NEKB-1, Case Size:W275XD150XH50 No. Description NEKB-1 275mm NB3-5/16 Socket 5/16" NB3-3/8 Socket 3/8" NB3-7/16 Socket 7/16" NB3-1/2 Socket 1/2" NB3-9/16 Socket 9/16" NB3-5/8 Socket 5/8" NB3-11/16 Socket 11/16" NBR390 Ratchet Handle NBE3-075 75 mm Extension NBE3-150 150 mm...neprostools.com
Ko-Ken does make a very nice-looking mixed SAE/Metric set:
3/8 Sq. Dr. Socket set 12 point 42 pieces - Ko-ken USA
Input Drive Size: 3/8" Drive Shape: Square Type: 12 Socket Set Includes: Don't need complete set? Click here to buy items individually 3405M 12 - Ko-ken USAkokenusa.com
Yes, a speeder handle right in the box! But this set is all 12-point, and includes a bunch of Whitworth sockets, which I probably will never use. And it turns out that Ko-Ken doesn't make any fully 6pt 3/8" SAE sets.
They do have one SAE set that is half-and-half, with 6pt for the smaller sizes, and 12pt for the larger sizes:
3/8 Sq. Dr. Socket set 6, 12 point 18 pieces - Ko-ken USA
Input Drive Size: 3/8" Drive Shape: Square Type: 6 & 12 Point Socket Set Includes: Don't need - Ko-ken USA
But then I'm back to needed a separate set for Metric, and not having it all fit nicely in one box.
I've never used 12pt sockets, and I have no 12pt fasteners, and I've never found myself in a tight situation where the extra angles mattered. I've seen all the debate on here about 6pt vs. 12pt.... but I have seen people saying that 12pt aren't as risky for larger fasteners.
So then... I thought... maybe I can get a 1/4" Ko-ken set too, and they have this one that's all 6pt:
1/4 Sq. Dr. 6 point Socket set 6 point 25 pieces - Ko-ken USA
Input Drive Size: 1/4" Drive Shape: Square Type: Socket Set No. Pieces: 25 Includes: Don't need complete set? Click here to buy items individually - Ko-ken USA
It's a nice mixed SAE/Metric set, and it also handles smaller sizes, which I actually need pretty often. So then I'd use these 1/4"-drive 6pt sockets for everything up to 1/2", and then switch to 3/8"-drive 12-pt sockets for everything 9/16" and bigger.
But then I'd have two sets, with a bit of overlap, but maybe that's the best solution? Two boxes, with almost every SAE and Metric socket that I will ever need, with 6pt sockets for the smaller sizes that are more likely to get rounded. I would get a 1/4" speeder handle, and that would be the only thing that wouldn't fit in the boxes.
Does this make sense? Am I missing any other great options? Am I correct that a Wright Tools ratchet isn't going to be refined as a Ko-Ken or Nepros ratchet?
Is there some other brand that I should consider when it comes to very nice, refined ratchet sets with good SAE coverage? I'm only considering stuff made in USA, Japan, Canada, and Europe. I'm looking for a set that I will proudly own and use for the rest of my life. Something worthy to pass to my grand children.
Oh boy, so much overthinking in this thread.
It's really simple:
-- buy some Wright impact sockets on a strip (they come on the strip) from HJE
-- Get the ratchet(s) you like.
-- Throw it all in a small bag.
Plastic cases are a pain. The cheap ones have molded hinges that quickly break. The nicer ones have hinges that last, and instead you'll always be fighting with a case that somehow manages to be so tight you can't get the sockets in and out while being loose enough that they spill inside the case every time you open it.
Hard cases just don't work as well in daily use. Strips in a bag just work way better. If you wear out a strip and the sockets start falling off, a replacement strip is easy and cheap. And it won't invalidate your entire setup because you didn't build your packout around a particular case.
Personally I would recommend Wright impact sockets (shallow and deep); they are superior sockets and they come with excellent strips. Then just buy whatever drive tools you prefer. Because you wisely bought impact sockets, you won't need to deal with yet another socket set when you move to power tools in air or battery. Your one-time investment is still relevant.
Wright impacts are much more durable than other impacts, so the main appeal of chrome (it's harder and last longer) is gone. Plus you don't have to worry about a finish peeling or cutting you. And the impacts give better grip with oily hands.
I wish years ago someone had given me the advice not to waste money on chrome sockets. Until and unless you wear out a Wright impact socket, you don't really need chrome.
Yes, the impacts are thicker wall. You will almost never encounter a time where that matters. When and if you get to where that does matter, buy a Chrome set and congratulate yourself on years of cost avoidance by putting off an expense you didn't need. Or just buy a cheap-yet-decent chrome set like the ICON or TEKTON sets, put them on a strip and toss them in your bag.
For bread-and-butter, daily driver type usage, IMO there is no equal to the Wright impact sockets for all uses-- impact tools or hand use.
I have a drawer full of impact sockets and a drawer full of chromes.
I’ve never once grabbed an impact for use on a ratchet if a chrome was an option. I’ve no desire to use a thick, heavy, clunky impact socket when other options exist.
To each their own, but every time I see that advice, I’m confused by it.
I’ve never once grabbed an impact for use on a ratchet if a chrome was an option. I’ve no desire to use a thick, heavy, clunky impact socket when other options exist.
To each their own, but every time I see that advice, I’m confused by it.
I doubt a U.S. tool manufacturer can make affordable quality tools comparable to tools made in Tiwan. Labor unions created that issue. I was looking at new proto tools recently, they said on the tool “ proto U.S.”. Their headquarters are in the U.S., that doesn’t mean the tools are made in America. Proto, and other tool companies, are in the business of making money. Where they make their tools is secondary. I see “made in America “ less and less these days.
I make them affordable by making the majority of my big ticket purchases on the secondary market. I’ve got a drawer full of current production SnapOn and Matco ratchets that I bought used for what a new Icon G2 costs or less.
For items I need now or just can’t find used, I’ll pay the premium for what it costs for tools made here. I’m not a zealot, I don’t mind sourcing from other places if need be, I simply prefer US made hand tools.
I have some Taiwan sockets in the drawer to fill holes (almost all metric, oddly enough) but they get replaced as I come across or decide to buy SnapOn / Williams to replace them. They are fine…I just don’t care for them.
I work on almost exclusively pre-80s American vehicles, so it seems to work out ok.
For items I need now or just can’t find used, I’ll pay the premium for what it costs for tools made here. I’m not a zealot, I don’t mind sourcing from other places if need be, I simply prefer US made hand tools.
I have some Taiwan sockets in the drawer to fill holes (almost all metric, oddly enough) but they get replaced as I come across or decide to buy SnapOn / Williams to replace them. They are fine…I just don’t care for them.
I work on almost exclusively pre-80s American vehicles, so it seems to work out ok.
oscarsnapkin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2025
- Messages
- 447
The sockets seem to be completely identical. The ratchets, which are amazing, I hear are closer to older Snap-On ratchets and are not fine-tooth as the current models are, but they’re a fraction of the price. Cat sockets are a terrific choice for you.
alinc100
Well-known member
The link I posted above the Cat SAE set AND the METRIC set total $81 plus sales tax. For the same in Snap On I'd venture $499 to get just a few more socket 1/4",5/16",13/16,7/8"
I'll have to tinker with one. I've got two or three storing bits, just like you have.
I know I'm a dummy, but I've gone the opposite way. I can't see the point of chrome.
It's surprising how little difference there is in OD in most cases. The only exception I've run into is my Apex 1/2" impacts are definitely somewhat fatter. I'm seeing no difference in 1/4" drive.
Anyhow, I was going to suggest that the OP buy a full set of name-brand impacts and then a few ratchets/extensions of their choice. I've got Proto 3/8" ($100 for a 15 piece set of SAE?) but I'm not married to any brand.
That sounds exactly like what I had in mind, although I wouldn't have any brand preference if it's something reasonably good.
I don’t think you’re a “dummy” I simply don’t see the attraction. Impact sockets are heavy, they rust, they are thick, and they aren’t typically available in mid length…etc.
I use impacts for impacting, and that’s about it. I’m probably wrong here, it happens somewhat often….
I use impacts for impacting, and that’s about it. I’m probably wrong here, it happens somewhat often….
mreisner
Well-known member
After 40 or 50 hour week of working with exclusively impact sockets on hand ratchet you'll know the difference. Especially your shoulders elbows wrists and hands. The lighter weight of the Chrome sockets can make a big difference if you were working with them in and out day in Day Out all week long over the decades. Weekend Warrior or a second set only use occasionally you will probably be fine with impacts. Difference in hardness between an impact socket and a chrome can also make a difference in some hard to remove nuts and bolts also.
OP
jasonrohrer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2022
- Messages
- 119
I do have strips of Wright impact sockets, both metric and SAE, but those are 1/2 drive for my air wrench and electric impact wrench. They are all deep sockets, and they're pretty heavy to lug around for quick jobs around the house.
I hear you on blow-molded cases being a pain to get sockets in and out of. If they are designed properly, though, with the right lid, I don't think the pieces actually need to "snap in" to the tray. They can just rest in the tray. The Ko-Ken sets, for example, have a chart on the inside of the lid showing what socket is where in the layout---another reason why a tray can be nice.
Speaking of cool sets in nice cases, I have a Chapman driver set that has a nice little blow molded case, and I can't imagine storing that set any other way. The bits are in bit holding strips that come out, and the other pieces are just cradled there, so you don't have to fight to "snap" anything out of the molded tray.
In other news, I stopped by Johnson's Fastener Warehouse in Portsmouth NH today... if you're ever in the area, it's definitely worth a trip.
Turns out they are a Wright dealer, with a big display board full of various round-headed ratchets and adjustable wrenches.
And my hunch was right.... the mechanism on the Wright ratchets is VERY stiff, with tons of backdrag, even on the 1/4" size. Yeah, these ratchets go up to huge sizes (a ratchet that's longer than my arm... it must weigh 40 pounds). This is the same feeling I get from the ratchet on my Wright 1/2" drive torque wrench... stiff and antiquated.
Thus, a Wright ratchet would be a down-grade from the Husky, at least in terms of mechanism smoothness and feel.
I know that no one here has suggested a Wright ratchet, but I'm just confirming what you've all said.
I hear you on blow-molded cases being a pain to get sockets in and out of. If they are designed properly, though, with the right lid, I don't think the pieces actually need to "snap in" to the tray. They can just rest in the tray. The Ko-Ken sets, for example, have a chart on the inside of the lid showing what socket is where in the layout---another reason why a tray can be nice.
Speaking of cool sets in nice cases, I have a Chapman driver set that has a nice little blow molded case, and I can't imagine storing that set any other way. The bits are in bit holding strips that come out, and the other pieces are just cradled there, so you don't have to fight to "snap" anything out of the molded tray.
In other news, I stopped by Johnson's Fastener Warehouse in Portsmouth NH today... if you're ever in the area, it's definitely worth a trip.
Turns out they are a Wright dealer, with a big display board full of various round-headed ratchets and adjustable wrenches.
And my hunch was right.... the mechanism on the Wright ratchets is VERY stiff, with tons of backdrag, even on the 1/4" size. Yeah, these ratchets go up to huge sizes (a ratchet that's longer than my arm... it must weigh 40 pounds). This is the same feeling I get from the ratchet on my Wright 1/2" drive torque wrench... stiff and antiquated.
Thus, a Wright ratchet would be a down-grade from the Husky, at least in terms of mechanism smoothness and feel.
I know that no one here has suggested a Wright ratchet, but I'm just confirming what you've all said.
four.cycle
Well-known member
preach it, brother!
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply that.
I really am a dummy as a hobbyist car mechanic. I just own old (and usually stupid valuable) stuff to fool with and don't need a giant set of variants to get at things. The smart folks on the site, usually pro mechanics working on late model cars, have completely different needs.
Short version is that I can get by with caveman tools.
alinc100
Well-known member
Ok I had to know. Metric Craftsman 11mm-19mm, Williams Taiwan quick release ratchet, Craftsman 3/8" thru 3/4",dewalt case linked above=
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I’m the weirdo with three flathead four cylinders in my shop. I speak fluent caveman.
alinc100
Well-known member
There have been a lot of suggestions , a lot to digest in this thread. There are probably 100's of options of mix and match. Now this set might not meet the criteria of something you'll want to leave your grandchildren, and its made in Taiwan. I have Milwaukee's 1/4" set in my truck and it's a pretty nice ratchet. This 3/8" drive set meets some of your criteria ,and it's cheap enough you could buy a set for more than one grandchild:
https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee...iaRMF1r4uP2pqMaAknFEALw_wcB&slasRedirect=true
https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee...iaRMF1r4uP2pqMaAknFEALw_wcB&slasRedirect=true
rancherbill
Well-known member
Cars are metric, so are appliance electronics, furnaces and pretty well everything. The only place you see imperial is lumber and DIY stuff at HD. I am sure you come up with some examples that are still imperial. They will be old designs. Those companies will be out of business if they are not re-designing regularly. My best example, is we built a house and we have a German boiler for heat. Three separate plumbers said US was overpriced and not as good. But heck, the execs got a nice quarterly bonus for their bottom line as a result of not investing in the future of the company.