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Thoughts on angle grinders?

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whateg01

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It’s almost a stretch to call cordles grinders grinders regardless of the flavor. Polisher or deburring tool may be more accurate. I use a heavier grinder for cutting off wheels and actual grinding discs.
It'S nOt A rEaL gRiNdEr! Whatever. A f350 isn't a real truck either, huh? For not real grinders, there sure are a lot of people removing metal and cutting stuff with them! 🙄
 

Farmall450

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HATE TO BRING THIS UP:
For guys doing a lot of metal work, which can be pretty nasty and harmful to tools, does it make sense to buy 4 or 5 HF angle grinders?

I bought a HF recip saw many years ago. It worked fine, except it was loud and sounded like it was about to seize up. Like the gear lubricant was play sand. That was quite a long time ago. I feel as tho an angle grinder is a pretty simple tool. I just checked. Has anyone had experience with the $30 models?

That said, I have this one. It's only $80. So these aren't crazy expensive
I bought the cheapest (less than $10) HF grinder back in HS for a big wire wheeling project. Still have it, still works. I has gone through several wheels :D
 
OP
F

FleetMech

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This is fabrication. LOL. You know how many batteries would be required to do this?
Base your decision on time with a grinder in your hand. For quick cleanup and easy mods, battery is fine.
Major fabrication and overhaul, go corded. My Craftsman grinder has built 13 chassis. Still going and a bit wobbly. LMAO
Zim
25.5 - Copy.jpg

Very nice looking chassis there Zimman! Tip of the hat to the old craftsman grinder there.


Is this sheet metal fab work or thicker structural fab work?
Both. To give you an idea of some of the fabrication we do: R&R trailer landing gears, wheel wells, diamond plate decking, and loading ramps. Various handrails and steps on semis, and equipment like hydro-mulch trucks, water trucks. Rehab and hard-facing work on excavator and loader buckets. We have a lot of farm implements like rippers, straw crimpers, and tillers. Often we replace the whole frame or fix what's broken. We're adding new quick-attach plates to a lot of implements...

Is air an option?
Air is an option. We have two 100 gallon tanks and compressors piped throughout the shop.


Appreciate all the replies and suggestions!
 

MJD1

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Very nice looking chassis there Zimman! Tip of the hat to the old craftsman grinder there.



Both. To give you an idea of some of the fabrication we do: R&R trailer landing gears, wheel wells, diamond plate decking, and loading ramps. Various handrails and steps on semis, and equipment like hydro-mulch trucks, water trucks. Rehab and hard-facing work on excavator and loader buckets. We have a lot of farm implements like rippers, straw crimpers, and tillers. Often we replace the whole frame or fix what's broken. We're adding new quick-attach plates to a lot of implements...


Air is an option. We have two 100 gallon tanks and compressors piped throughout the shop.


Appreciate all the replies and suggestions!
I do a lot of similar work and use the 6" metabo with slide switch, 13 amp for the majority of it.
 

Happy in NC

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I have the Hercules branded HF grinders. Not in production but the get used a little every week and do fine for me. I like the fact that they have quick change guards that allow use from 31/2" to 9 or 10" between the for either cutoffs or grinding.
I like them. Just my .02
 

Nofries

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What amp were the corded grinders did you smoke? Amps make a huge difference. The Dewalt we have can be bogged down pretty easily and the switch now won't stay on unless you hold it while really digging in. The porter cable bearings have become rough but it still keeps kicking. The 30 year old Metabo is still kicking hard. And the Hilti is the most ergonomic and is safe too. It has technology that reduces "felt" torque. Not sure how they do it but it reduces fatigue while using it. Hilti tools tend to be expensive but they also last much longer. Made for construction professionals. Also if you need multiple processes cut off, wire wheel, flap disk etc. I would recommend multiple time is much more expensive so switching grinders as opposed to disks will save money in the long run.
20260208_091326.jpg20260208_091330.jpg

 

bwringer

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... Safety equipment PPE is a must. Since you’re industrial see who does local repairs to what brands. The environment can be pretty brutal, grinding dust, heat, drops onto concrete. Replace switches, brushes, cords, plugs. If nobody local services xxxx, then I wouldn’t buy xxxx. One good source for grinders is welding supply.

I have several, all corded, and lighter is better.
I imagine that heavy duty work requires a beast, but that can cause fatigue pretty fast.

Really haven't seen much mention of safety yet, but it's worth paying a little more attention to.

7" and larger grinders are heavy and tiring and hard to maneuver, and they can easily get away from even the strongest user. They REALLY need training, experience, and respect. You only bust out the 7" or 9" when there's no other way to get something done, or when it's so much faster it's worth the trouble and risk.

And even 4-1/2" grinders require a lot more training and respect than they're usually given, and PPE that too often gets skipped. (And I'm sure the OP is familiar with all that, enforces training and PPE, etc.)

All of which is to say that in perspective, money spent on lighter, less fatiguing, less loud, and generally better grinders and consumables, and the very best in comfortable PPE, is nothing compared to the potential cost of gruesome injuries, and stuff like long-term hearing loss and dust inhalation.

A grinder that vibrates and screeches less with quality consumables that work faster and last longer dramatically reduces risk.

Air is awfully nice, but you need VERY serious compressors and the air hoses can get pretty heavy. If you have convenient overhead cord drops, high quality corded grinders can be a great way to get a lot of power (hate cords on the floor), and even the higher-end ones are relatively cheap so you can have several loaded up and ready to go.
 

Beerhippie

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This being Garage Journal, I'll give the obvious answer: Get them both.

I use an M18 for when I want to do some quick work and don't want to lug an extension cord. For any hard work--grinding welds, long cuts, etc, I use an old corded Makita. The M18 has a paddle switch and the Makita a slide. The paddle is fine for small jobs and the slider is great for when I want to chuck the grinder up in a vise for static work.

We used to have a 9" IR. That thing was terrifying. It would also frequently pop a 20 A breaker on start-up.

Lately, I've gone to 5" fiber disks in a 4 1/2" grinder for heavy material removal. The 3M Cubitron II disks, in particular, out-perform a flap disk or even a stone.
 

finn

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Really haven't seen much mention of safety yet, but it's worth paying a little more attention to.

7" and larger grinders are heavy and tiring and hard to maneuver, and they can easily get away from even the strongest user. They REALLY need training, experience, and respect. You only bust out the 7" or 9" when there's no other way to get something done, or when it's so much faster it's worth the trouble and risk.

And even 4-1/2" grinders require a lot more training and respect than they're usually given, and PPE that too often gets skipped. (And I'm sure the OP is familiar with all that, enforces training and PPE, etc.)

All of which is to say that in perspective, money spent on lighter, less fatiguing, less loud, and generally better grinders and consumables, and the very best in comfortable PPE, is nothing compared to the potential cost of gruesome injuries, and stuff like long-term hearing loss and dust inhalation.

A grinder that vibrates and screeches less with quality consumables that work faster and last longer dramatically reduces risk.

Air is awfully nice, but you need VERY serious compressors and the air hoses can get pretty heavy. If you have convenient overhead cord drops, high quality corded grinders can be a great way to get a lot of power (hate cords on the floor), and even the higher-end ones are relatively cheap so you can have several loaded up and ready to go.
I haven’t used my 7” grinder in years. It scares me, and a 4 1/2 inch grinder does everything I need.

My latest Metabo is called a 4 1/2 - 5” grinder, though, and, thinking about it, my Dewalt Flexvolt may be listed like that too, althought I’m not certain about that.

Generally I reach for the lightest grinder that has the torque to do the job. It’s just plain less fatiguing
 
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engineer2

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If getting a battery grinder, go for variable speed. You don't need full speed for a lot of work and the battery will last longer.
 

Hal

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I’ve got four plug ins: B&D nine inch, a real beast I’ve had for forty years. I don’t use it now if I can help it, but it was my only grinder for a long time.
Craftsman 4 1/2 inch, probably over twenty years old, was my go to for a long time. Now dedicated to a cut off wheel.
Ryobi 4 1/2 inch, fairly new, dedicated hard grinding wheel. I has rotatable grip that is handy for some things.
HF 4 1/2 inch, horrible sounding, cheap junk, but it keeps on running. Use it just for flap wheels, as I think that the least severe duty.

I have never really considered buying a cordless, but I know it would be handy for some things.
 

Dave455

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I don’t really like angle grinders, but I use them more than I’d wish, so I’ll share a few thoughts!

First off, corded v cordless? For so many tools, cordless is the way to go, but I’m not convinced grinders are one of them. Certainly not the way I use mine.

They are power hungry things, and for most of what I do the cordless just don’t have the power, or the battery capacity. That’s not to say there isn’t a role for cordless, there is - they’re great for cutting stuff on a jobsite, but they won’t handle a lot of surface prep well.

Buying several cheap ones instead of one good one? Personally, I wouldn’t. There’s far more to a quality grinder than tool life. I’ve owned one cheap grinder, and it was honestly the nastiest thing I have ever used. It was far more noisy than the better grinders, had far more vibration, and the switch was positively dangerous! There’s a ”base level“ of quality that I wouldn’t go below.

What would I use? What do I use?

Fein. Lovely tools. Fein are specialists in metalworking tools and their grinders are superb. Beautifully smooth, very durable, and overall excellent quality. I currently have two and I wouldn’t hesitate to get another if needed. Beware that, while the majority are made in Germany, the very cheapest / lowest powered are not. I’d buy the German. I know Fein are not common in the U.S. though.
IMG_2900.jpeg

Metabo. Another solid choice. Note that I’m talking “Metabo” not “Metabo HPT” here, and these are very different things. I only own one Metabo, a 5 inch, and it’s also been superb. Generally regarded as the pro standard in grinders, and I can’t dispute that.
IMG_2901.jpeg

Makita. If in doubt, get Makita. I have three of these and they are just fine. Build quality is good (but better as you spend more), they are nice to use, and spares are easily available. The cheapest Makita grinders are built in Romania (for the U.K. market at least) and I consider these baseline quality.

The better grinders are made in Japan and rival the best of the German machines, but the range of options might be greater.
IMG_2902.jpeg

Whatever you get, take the trouble to sit down and work out which model you want. Generally, the more you pay the more powerful the machine, but consider weight and size as well. I have a small 700w Makita I use a lot. Inexpensive machine, very handy, great for cleaning rust, but runs out of steam if I have to cut a cast iron water pipe.

Basic machines tend to come with simple switches, but I’d pay a bit more for a paddle switch, and more again for variable speed! Only you can decide what suits your needs.

Any of the top quality machines are in a different league with regard to safety features, and for that reason alone I’d avoid the cheapest. Same goes for the discs / accessories. I’d never go cheap on something spinning at that speed!
 

whateg01

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.

Buying several cheap ones instead of one good one? Personally, I wouldn’t. There’s far more to a quality grinder than tool life.
I would guess that most of us who have multiple don't do it for tool life. It's because we use them. I have different discs on different grinders, as do others. It's a lot of wasted time switching discs back and forth as a job progresses. I had 6 orange hf grinders for awhile. I still have several of them and they get used. But I also have several DeWalt now too.
 

nadogail

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I would guess that most of us who have multiple don't do it for tool life. It's because we use them. I have different discs on different grinders, as do others. It's a lot of wasted time switching discs back and forth as a job progresses. I had 6 orange hf grinders for awhile. I still have several of them and they get used. But I also have several DeWalt now too.
I have several Harbor Freight grinders that I have bought for myself, I also have a yellow grinder that a former employer bought to replace my first Harbor Freight grinder. My former employer did not have an account with Harbor Freight, but had an account with the store that sold the yellow grinder.
 

Dave455

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I would guess that most of us who have multiple don't do it for tool life. It's because we use them. I have different discs on different grinders, as do others. It's a lot of wasted time switching discs back and forth as a job progresses. I had 6 orange hf grinders for awhile. I still have several of them and they get used. But I also have several DeWalt now too.
Oh absolutely!

I have half a dozen myself, for that reason!

But unless I misread, I think multiple cheapies instead of one decent one was suggested as a strategy.
 

dnschmidt

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There was a time, when HD first started selling their "Ridgid" orange tools where both their six inch sander and their angle grinders were made by Metabo in Germany and were exactly the same as the Metabo branded versions of these tools. As is always the case the race to the bottom stopped that nonsense and manufacturing went from Germany to China.
 

tworley

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I've been happy with my Milwaukee M18 Fuel and a 8ah battery. But I've got multiple batteries so once the one I am using depletes, I throw it back on the charger and use another thats already good to go.

Second cubitron discs, those things are amazing.
 

exmaxima1

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I have the Milwaukee Fuel grinder, and it needs at least a 6.0 battery to be useful. I also have several other corded grinders, including Metabo, Milwaukee, Bosch, and others. For a Fab shop with access to 120V power I’d be looking at the upper end Metabo or Bosch grinders with the vibration reduction and automatic electronic speed adjustments. If consumables are not a concern I’d also look at 5-6“ grinders as the extra rim speed over 4 1/2 as well as the extra grinding surface makes them a bit more versatile. And they run 4.5” if needed.
I have a German-made 5" Metabo with the quick change nut and it barely gets warm after long sessions with a cup brush. It's a great grinder. I also have a 5" Bosch that cost over $200 so I assume it's higher end. It's also very good, especially the speed control, but the Metabo runs smoother.
 

whateg01

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Oh absolutely!

I have half a dozen myself, for that reason!

But unless I misread, I think multiple cheapies instead of one decent one was suggested as a strategy.
If I had to start over today, I would do multiple cheaper grinders vs one good one. Then upgrade as money permits. I would rather have grinders that are noisy than have to change discs all the time.

I'll add that by cheap, I don't mean the $5 one in the bargain bin that draws 0.7A. I just mean maybe bauer or Hercules vs metabo/ fein.
 

Nessism

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I have a Milwaukee 2880-20 M18 FUEL grinder. Two of them, actually. The first one failed after minimal usage. I was in the middle of a job, so figuring it was just bad luck, I ordered another. Milwaukee has a fantastic return and repair system; they sent a Fedex 2 day label for free, and the unit came back in two weeks total time.

After some construction work was done on my home, I had a couple dozen polycarbonate roof panels from a covered pergola. Took the angle grinder and proceeded to cut up the panels into trash can-sized chunks. Cut two or three at a time, since they are thin. After a few cuts, the 5AH battery overheated, flashing lights and no power. Switched out to a new battery and same thing happened. While one battery was cooling down, I used the other. Pretty severe abuse, but the batteries protected themselves and recovered to normal operation.

Not sure I can recommend these per se, well, maybe for medium to light duty. Not for heavy stuff.

Screenshot 2026-02-09 164256.png
 

tyyost

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With me more power is always a good thing but with angle grinders I find vibration to be the better compromise. Grinders are cheap. Carpal Tunnel is not.
I see lots of posts about the HF and other cheap grinders. For a home gamer I get the appeal but any time I have a grinder in my hand for more than 10 minutes with a wire wheel the vibration is numbing. I never have issues with my Bosch or Metabo for longer sessions. If you are doing this for a living it’s the little things that will add up to your longevity, including good PPE, vibration control, and quality consumables.
 

tarbellb

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Industrial shop setting:

Cost effective- Makita
Best- Metabo / Fein




Dont buy the cheapest version, do your homework and get the appropriate size/amps. Sweet spot for productivity and safety is 5" and 8+amps.

Better consumables go a LONG way for productivity, brands like 3M, Weiler, Pferd, will last longer, less change outs, etc...

Teach them to use fiber disc over flap disc, and .045" cutting disc
 

KnurledNut

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Metabo. Another solid choice. Note that I’m talking “Metabo” not “Metabo HPT” here, and these are very different things. I only own one Metabo, a 5 inch, and it’s also been superb. Generally regarded as the pro standard in grinders, and I can’t dispute that.
Keep in mind in North America ALL Metabo tools are now branded HPT. This is a new development that is in the transition stages and I am guessing existing stock will still be in circulation until depleted.
 

Dave455

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Keep in mind in North America ALL Metabo tools are now branded HPT. This is a new development that is in the transition stages and I am guessing existing stock will still be in circulation until depleted.
I didn’t know that, and I can’t really follow the rationale there.

I know that the former Hitachi Power Tools, and Metabo, are now under the same ownership, but they are very different.

I lost interest in Hitachi when the high quality Japanese tools were replaced with, what appeared to me, to be very generic “Made in China” tools. When those tools subsequently became branded “Hikoki” in most of the world, and “Metabo HPT” in the U.S. that still wasn’t really of interest.

Metabo have always had a mixed line. Some of their tools, in fact most of their German made tools, have always been first class. But for the last few years a buyer has had to exercise caution, as some lower quality tools have turned up under the Metabo name.

I can’t imagine what’s happening now? I can see why you might as well merge the lower quality Metabo line with the former Hitachi line, as they are comparable tools.

But what about the German made Metabo? How will customers know what’s worth spending the money on? Or will the German tools be dropped in the U.S. market? I know that European tools end up quite expensive in the U.S. by the time they have had an oceanic passage.
 
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