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Thoughts on driveway gate

kool55

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South Central VA.
I want to build an aluminum swing type driveway [2-8 ft. halves]. The frame material being 1x3x 1/8 wall rec. tubing. The top of the gate has a sweeping arch to it using 2 pieces of this tubing with a 4 or 5'' piece of aluminum sheet[1/8] between them. When done it would look like a formed beam. I don't have a roll bender but I do have a 4x8table with a 3/4 thick plate top. Thinking I can tack round stock pins to the shape I drew on the table and form the 1x3 to that pattern. Think it will work? This gate is 8,000. if bought. I can get the materials for 1,800. The savings could buy me a Baileigh m-55 roll bender.
 
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Holedgr

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I guess if you had the skills to fab this then go for it. Some things to consider are the hinges, which to be durable and smooth, will not be aluminum. Have you considered steel? Alot of problems can be eliminated with using steel. The post is as critical as anything else on the entire design. I believe same look can be achieved with steel, just more weight........BUT less money, easier (less tempermental) to work with, less delicate or duarble, and overall easier to finish. My .02.

WHATEVER you decide.....I know we ALL would like to see the build and aything you'd be willing to share. Good luck.

EDIT: Btw...the savings could throw in a plasma cuuter on top of your Baileigh bender!!

-T
 

metal1313

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instead of using pins, make a jig from mdf or plywood. lock the front edge in place and gradually pull the bend. im not sure how well this would work on 1x3, but i've done the same for sweeping bends on 1.5 emt, and 1.25x square tube. it works well.

or you could buy an hf roller and mod it to work for you.
 
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kool55

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I was using 5/8 round stock[pins] because I have alot of it left over from building horse stalls. Also I can secure it to the table better than clamping wood.The 1x3 would be be bent with the 1 inch side vertical. I did think about the HF roll bender. I think it would handle this job but not be suitable for bigger jobs in the future.I have seen a home made roll bender using 1'' plate but that is a project in itself.
 

Jack Olsen

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The HF bender can be bought for $120 or so with a coupon and when it's on sale. I used it for 2"x2" steel tubing, but had to make cuts before it worked out all right. It might be an effective way to go, depending on the radius of your bend.

You're bending the 1"x3" stock the hard way or the easy way? When you say 1" is vertical, I'm not clear on what that means. If you're talking about using a series of pins as a form to bend against, I'd worry about kinks at the point where the aluminum contacts the pins and/or a stepped type of curve in the metal. Cutting some cheap OSF might work better.

What about jobbing out just the bending to a local shop?
 
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kool55

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You are correct Jack, I did not explain myself as good as I could. I will be bending the 1x3 the easy way.That would be the 3'' side against the rollers if I were using the roll bender. I did see your work bench job using the HF bender which turned out great. HF has rolls for 1/2 square tubing but not 1''. I would have to modify the 1/2 rolls . I don't want to cut kerfs either,if I can help it. good point that the 5/8 rods will cause excessive pressure points .
 
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kool55

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Disregard that statement on the 1'' roll dies. Won't matter since I would be bending on the 3'' side. Getting tired. Hate to farm out the radius bend until I try it first.
 

Jack Olsen

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With the HF bender, you can pull out the lower dies entirely, and run the 3" aluminum against the steel axles that the lower dies rotate on. For the center 'drive' wheel, you could use the 1/2" square tubing one, since the 1/2" gutter wouldn't affect anything. The trick would be to put in some guides to keep it going straight. But a couple of wood 1x2's might do it. If you want, let me know and I'll measure the width of the HF unit. I'm pretty sure it's 4", so the 3" stock should work with it.
 
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kool55

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Thanks Jack. The measurements would help. The article has me rethinking what metal1313 said about using mdf or plywood for the jig.
 

msnow

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I have also done the plywood method and it works well just think about making your radius a little narrower so that you can account for some spring back and making it a longer bend then necessary because the ends will tend to spring the most (then you can cut the best section out). As for clamping it down I would just screw it down to a piece of 3/4 ply that was clamped to your nice table. Also that thin of aluminum you would be surprised what a good heat gun or heating blanket and a little patience will get you and not burn it like a torch, just a thought.
 

Jack Olsen

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Thanks Jack. The measurements would help. The article has me rethinking what metal1313 said about using mdf or plywood for the jig.
The gate area the steel passes through is 5" wide. There are a pair of 1" spacers on each of the lower two axles, and the dies are 3" wide. To me, that makes it a good starting point for bending 1"x3" tubing, although there might be some work required to make sure it runs straight through.
 
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kool55

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Thanks.I sent out today a quote on 2x2x.083 steel tubing to get an idea on cost. I am more comfy working with steel. I also found a bender made for Woodward Fab- model WFTR5 FOR $480 that handles 1/8 material but they don't have square dies.Checked with an ebay dealer that has a similar bender with multiple dies With luck maybe I can match things up.Thinking thru everything first.
 

Holedgr

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Well....this fab job is definitely out of my league...KOOL55.....you are gonna have to have pics of how all this gets done!!!


-T
 
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kool55

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South Central VA.
It just hit me today thinking why don't I delete the tubing for the top sweep portion of the gate and use1x2 flat bar instead. Advantage being I can bend the bar without kinking. Still considering Aluminum. 1x2 rec. tube is .800 lb. per ft. . 1x2 flat bar is 2.3 lb. per ft. Not bad.:)
 
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kool55

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382618726.jpg
This is what I am going to fab.Ithink getting this picture here was harder .
 
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