Thoughts on galvanic corrosion and anti-seize

[tomsmith]

Hey all,

Was switching over to my winter wheels/tires today and had a bear of a time getting the rears off. Fronts came off pretty easy but the rears - whole 'nother story.

I tried hitting them with a rubber mallet, giving the wheels a good kicking, even tried soaking them in PB Blaster for around 20 mins. The ony thing that worked was hand tightening the nuts back on and then driving in tight circles until I felt or heard the pop of the wheel coming loose.

After I get the wheels off, I saw a ring of corrosion on the hub that I'm assuming was the cause of my problems. I used a wire bush to clean it all off but I want to avoid the same problem in the future. I've been reading up on galvanic corrosion but there's a whole bunch of conflicting info on the internet. Some folks say to use copper based anti-seize between aluminum and steel, others say that copper anti-seize will actually increase the corrosion between steel and aluminum.

For now, I've spread some heavy-duty wheel bearing grease on the hub surface very lightly and then put my steel wheels on. Should that be OK? Should I have used copper anti-seize or maybe nickel based stuff?

 

[ford33]

I had the same problem getting my wheels off the truck earlier this year. I too would be interested in learning how to safely avoid this problem. OP, do you have steel or aluminum alloy wheels?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Steel wheels on steel hubs. I had the same problem with getting the wheels off.
I use regular anti-seize on them, it seems to help.

 

[lateracer]

+1 for copper anti-sieze or things similar. When I garage my track car for the winter, I do the same ritual. No problem removing storage wheels in the spring.

One year, I left on the same wheels that were on during my final track session of the season, and I had to do the same trick you mentioned above to get them off in the spring.

 

[383 240z]

I just use the regular silver anti seize. I had the same 1qt can of it from when I was working as a tech. I just spray off the old stuff, quick pass with a hand wire brush and a new dab of the silver slimy stuff. Put the wheels back on. Never had an issue. I do it on all the cars and Jeeps. Never had an issue. That was also as S O P at the dealership. Keith

 

[Flanders]

I've used copper anti-size on my hubs/rims for about 15 years now, for both summer and winter tire changes. I've *never* had my rims stick to my hubs. Highly recommended!

 

[coljar]

I have both types of anti seize and grab whatever is handy. In almost 40 years, I haven't had any problems with any type of wheels.

 

[zmotorsports]

I use the plain silver anti-seize here, Permatex brand. I use it on nearly everything due to the Utah weather and swear by it. Keep in mind a little goes a long way though. One of my pet peeves is either none or too much and it oozes all over the place.

Mike.

 

[Vinci]

I always put the silver stuff on wheel/rotor mating surfaces. It took me way to long to beat the old rotors off my wife's car the first time I replaced them. Now they come off without any problem.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Copper ant-seize is for high temperatures. Probably not necessary.

If you don't have any kind of anti-seize then just use any kind of grease.

 

[zoomzoomjeff]

Laying on the ground and swinging/sliding a 10lb long handled sledgehammer against the tire always worked for us. (Keep at least one nut threaded on) Once it's off though, I use a drill with wire wheel, brush EVERYTHING off, make sure the back side of the wheel is clean, then apply silver anti-seize. Works great later on when you remove wheels.

Just don't over-do it like someone said up above.

Also do the same for brake rotor (inside not the disc part) mating to the wheel hub, if you do a lot of your own front end work like FWD axles, ball joints, etc. Makes life pleasant.

 

[tomsmith]

I had the same problem getting my wheels off the truck earlier this year. I too would be interested in learning how to safely avoid this problem. OP, do you have steel or aluminum alloy wheels?

Summers are aluminum, winters are steel. Looks like silver anti-seize seems to be the popular option here with grease being an acceptable, if somewhat inferior, alternative.

I'm gonna stick with grease since I have a tub of it already and with my MaxJax, getting all 4 wheels off isn't the chore it used to be

 

[mcmlvif100]

Have used both plain silver and copper anti-size on our hubs and rims. Both work well on steel and aluminum rims. Not sure that grease is as good but would be a lot better than nothing. Having a MaxJax is great (i.e. I'm envious) but the real test is can you get the wheel and tire off when you have a flat in the middle of nowhere.

 

[justanengineer]

Laying on the ground and swinging/sliding a 10lb long handled sledgehammer against the tire always worked for us. (Keep at least one nut threaded on)

The problem with sledges is that they bounce, A LOT! I bought a 10(?) lb orange rubber dead blow mallet, it smacks and hardly moves.

 

[zoomzoomjeff]

The problem with sledges is that they bounce, A LOT! I bought a 10(?) lb orange rubber dead blow mallet, it smacks and hardly moves.

I know! You've really gotta hang onto them and try to forcefully maintain momentum. Once in a while we'd chuck up a 2x4 against the tire and that seemed to help absorb the shock. Never thought of the dead blow--better idea.

 

[MrMark]

FWIW, F150's amazingly come from the factory with a smear of grease on the hub. I have used the Wurth Copper antiseize but feel that regular grease is just as good as any antiseize.

 

[DIC]

Grease works for me

 

[y20dth]

clean the hub and steel wheel surface with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Make it really clean, no rust remaining.
Any grease you put on there will prevent rust, anti-seize is ok.

I am assuming your wheels are centering on the hub. Make sure that part has grease on it.

 

[turnpikecrusier]

Copper anti seize works good for me