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Thoughts on joist/frame repair?

sti491

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Greensboro, NC
Ok, this is not a garage... but it is a construction/repair question that I thought someone here could provide some input on. It could easily apply to a garage!

These pics are the underside of staircase landings on an older 6 pack condo I own at Carolina Beach, NC. There are six of these landings that connect stairs that zig-zag up two sides of the back of the building.

A couple years ago we noticed that the galvanized floor joist hangers were corroding. The bottom parts of them were falling down by gravity. After consulting a contractor, we added 1x1 "stringers" under the joists (my terminology may be wrong), and re-toenailed the joists to the doubled up 2x6's that make up the perimeter frame of the landing. You can see that new board we already added in each of the pics below. That seems to provide reasonable strength to support the floor load for the failing floor joist hangers. First question: does this seem like an adequate repair? So far we have been happy with it.

New problem and second question: There are larger joist hangers that hold the doubled up 2x6's perimeter frame of the landing at the corners. There are a total of eight of these hangers visible on two sides of the four corners of the stair landing (two per corner). Now we have noticed, the bottom part of those larger hangers are corroding through. They are not all completely corroded at the bottom part that supports the weight, but enough are that way that we are concerned. You can see different stages of the corner double bracket hanger corrosion in the pictures. Where the bottom lip is completely corroded away, we believe the only thing supporting the corners of the frame to the column is the trim fascia on the columns. Maybe some toe-nailing but that is hard to see. The columns are made of multiple sandwiched 2x6's I believe, with cedar siding on all four sides.

We are considering doing a repair similar to adding the long 1x1 pieces under the floor joists, by adding a short 2x4 or 2X6 with SS screws or galv bolts or perhaps just large galvanized nails, underneath the doubled up framing driven through the new board deep into the column. I tried to illustrate that in one of the attachments. There would need to be two of those added supports for each corner (my illustration just shows one). We could also toe nail the best we can, but there is little room to do much of that.

What do you think about this solution? Any suggestions how to do it differently than I attempted to describe? It would be easiest to attach the new short support piece right over the cedar trim that is somewhat supporting the frame corners now. We could cut away the trim and fit the new piece right up to the column core, but it's a little more work. The only other solution we can think of is completely rebuilding the stair cases. But, that is an expense we want to avoid like the plague!

I would really appreciate input from the experts here. Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts.
 

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75CrewDeutz

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Its difficult to see exactly what's going on without being there in person. It looks to me like you could pull the trip pieces off the post from under the landings, add 2X6 or 4X6 to the existing posts and then re wrap the posts with trim. It will make the finished posts much wider.
 
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sti491

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I was wondering if we would need to move the trim to piece in the 2X6 or 4X6. Sounds like you think we should. Probably right. Maybe we would not even need additional trim. We could just paint the new pieces and call it a day. Thank you for your response.
 

Nowater

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Are you in hurricane country? Holding the structure down may be as important as holding it up. Why did the joist hangers corrode? Are the nails corroded too?
 

MoonRise

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The wooden piece I pointed to in the edited image?

Looks more like a 2x2 strip, not a 1x piece.

Either way, neither a 2x2 nor a 1x1 piece is "adequate" to hold up a deck or stairs.

Toenailing decks or stairs is usually not adequate nor 'allowed' per most building codes nowadays.

Next question to your situation. As mentioned/asked, WHY did the metal joist hangers corrode? Inadequate galvanization for a 'coastal' environment? In combination with contact with 'new' type PT lumber, which is 3+x more corrosive to metal (fasteners and brackets included) than the 'old' style CCA PT lumber?

For joist hangers that have corroded away, the 'right' fix is to remove and replace them with 'correct' and 'adequate' joist hangers. With the 'correct' fasteners.
 

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rsanter

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What about replacing the hangers? Remove the old, paint with a sink based paint and then install with screws instead of nails.
That piece you added I am sure helped some however that piece held only with nails will roll down out of position with the application of any real weight and then the nails attach I'd at the very bottom of the pup port beam where it has minimal holding capacity

Bob
 
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sti491

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It is a 2x2 we originally added, not a 1x1 as I said by accident. The galvanized hangers met beach town code nearly 30 years ago. No doubt the best solution is to replace the hangers and bring up to current code... but we can not afford to do that now. The galvanized hangers that are there now did nothing (or not much) for hurricane lift. Our main concern is to be sure that the stair landing will support the weight of people using them. I really appreciate the input guys.
 
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sti491

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I have found living at the beach that nearly everything corrodes. A lot of SS screws corrode. Some SS doesn't. My guess is that nearly 30 years was the useful life of those hangers!
 

tehach

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You likely have a case of wood decay going on there. Can't tell from those pictures and in any event decay is very hard to detect in its early stages.

You have a ton of liability. Before placing any more fasteners you should verify the structural members still have adequate mechanical properties.

Possible criminal charges in the Berkeley balcony collapse.
 
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lakeroadster

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tehach makes a good point.

Since it is a rental beach property and a structural issue you need to "Stick To The Code".
 

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sti491

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Thanks for the input everyone. I have a qualified beach home builder, one I know that just built a friends house on the beachfront to current codes, coming next week to give us his opinion and hopefully come up with a satisfactory repair. I don't think the wood is rotting. Those pictures were after it rained so it looks that way. But we definitely have an issue that needs to be addressed. His first impression over the phone was it needs some sort of replacement bracket supporting the corners, either wood or metal. We'll see. I'll let you know.
 

little d

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Sti,
instead of the 1by or 2by ledgers nailed to the post, I would have a coupla 2" by 2", 1/8" thick angle iron pieces made up and bolted to the post, as long as the post is still solid, this should carry the weight plus.
 

Leoruiz

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Sti,
instead of the 1by or 2by ledgers nailed to the post, I would have a coupla 2" by 2", 1/8" thick angle iron pieces made up and bolted to the post, as long as the post is still solid, this should carry the weight plus.
But it won't do **** for uplift in a hurricane. Call that builder up. Whatever you do DO NOT consult a building inspector.He'll make you trash it, dig, install steel columns with J hooks in concrete(wide and deeeeeep) with joist saddles bolted through, over strapped and all sorts of fun $tuff.
 

fury9

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There is no reason that header should have a piece of plywood in between it. The jack wad that framed it then notched out the header to fit the double joist hanger. The only reason plywood is applied to a header is to build it out to 3.5 inches for drywall. On a 2x6 header the material is nailed directly together then furred out with 2x material.

The header should be lap jointed then set on top of the post. There really is no reason for joist hanger on the corner. But yes those hangers are pretty much shot.

The 2x2 your carpenter installed is not acting like a true ledger board like you see in some older homes that have balloon framed walls. In fact the 2x2 is not really holding much except some of your hard earned cash. In the older homes a 1x6 was notched into the wall framing and the joists were set on top of that. Probably wouldn't pass inspection these days but I've seen hundred year old houses holding up just fine.
 
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wssix99

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Chicago, IL
I will echo what the others above have pointed out regarding code, and rental liability.

The cost of having a structural engineer solve this problem for you will be many many many times less than what it will cost you to increase your liability policy for the event that the porch collapses and a tenant gets hurt.

There are brackets designed to solve your problem here. If they aren't prescribed in your local code, you will need an engineer to run the numbers for you:

081942135159lg.jpg


After some wealthy drunk college kids died in a Chicago porch collapse, we now have to put these in place under our beams as extra insurance in case we (down the road) end up having the same issue as your porch. (It's really lovely and expensive - our house floors are 40 psf but our porches are 100 psf.)


Thanks for the input everyone. I have a qualified beach home builder, one I know that just built a friends house on the beachfront to current codes, coming next week to give us his opinion and hopefully come up with a satisfactory repair.

I wouldn't rely on a word he says unless he will do the work and will provide you proof of insurance (in writing) that will take the liability off of you for any collapse.
 
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