Thoughts On My Workbench Design

[Maddog10]

So I think I have come up with a design that I like for an upcoming workbench, but before I start building I wanted to run it by the experts on here. Work will be relatively light-duty, but I want it to hold up well over time and therefore I want a solid build.

Entire bench frame will be made with 2x4's, and the working surface will be two sheets of 3/4" ply that are glued and screwed together. Same goes for the bottom shelf. Dimensionally it will be 38" tall, 75" long, and 26" wide. The primary working surface is a 72"x23" piece of ply, and then then a strip of 2"x2" trim around the outside for aesthetics.

Priorities for my bench are strength and clamping surface. I believe this design will satisfy both of those priorities nicely, but I am of course open to suggestions as well. I would love to hear your thoughts. One early consideration is to do away with the ears on each end of the bottom shelf and instead just squaring it off with the inside of the legs. I would love to hear your thoughts on the design as a whole?

 

[RVDan]

It's overkill, it will be fine.

 

[Firebrick43]

How tall are you? I think 38" is way to tall! Rule of thumb is the bench top should be the height of your knuckles while making a fist with your are hanging down at your side. Any more than an inch or to either way leads to discomfort. I am 6'1" and mine are all at 32-33" except a reloading bench at 36". It was done that way to get the press at the right height.


I would widen the legs out to full width for stabability. What are you clamping? I know from woodworking nothing beats a traditional style woodworkers bench top with two rows of holes for bench dogs. A top of laminated on edge 2x4's can inexpensively be done this way.

 

[yhprum]

I like it. You could slightly notch the vertical 2X4 for additional strength. I might steal your idea.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Adjustable feet. Here is a link for some I saved from another post here. Your design looks fine.

http://www.lakesidebilliardsupply.com/pooltablefeet.html

 

[PhantomEB]

Narrow the bottom shelf so it don't end up being a shin knocker, flush with the frame is a good idea.

 

[wes73]

I built 4 with the same design. and also a portable high top table. Overkill, yes. But 2x4's are cheap. I made by legs 3 - 2x4's thick where you have spaces so that the top is not only dependent on the fasteners. I also added locking casters to each one. I can easily push them all together to make on giant work surface if needed.

 

[KEH]

Looks good. I like the doubled 2 x 4 legs.

KEH

 

[ratdoggy]

Narrow the bottom shelf so it don't end up being a shin knocker, flush with the frame is a good idea.

I should have done this as I like to sit on a stool and work on stuff

 

[ALinCarolina]

I would make the legs with three 2x4s. In other words, fill in the space between the two with another 2x4. This would make it a mortise which would help prevent left to right racking. It also would add mass which is always useful (except when you have to move it)

 

[aka Larry]

Narrow the bottom shelf so it don't end up being a shin knocker, flush with the frame is a good idea.

+3. I was thinking the same thing.

 

[nh_yota]

Put some diagonal bracing in there somewhere to keep it from swaying side to side.

 

[Maddog10]

Appreciate the suggestions, fellas. I think I'm definitely going to cut the bottom shelf down some so that it doesn't catch things, mainly my shins.

I would make the legs with three 2x4s. In other words, fill in the space between the two with another 2x4. This would make it a mortise which would help prevent left to right racking. It also would add mass which is always useful (except when you have to move it)

I considered this, but thought it may be way overkill. I actually considered doing exactly what you talked about but with two 2x4's. Basically the same design I have shown, but instead of the gap just cutting the second leg so that it fits around the cross brace and supports it from each side. I like the look of the gap though, so I'd like to incorporate that.

nh_yota, I was thinking about some cross bracing. Not sure yet if I want to do that or just mount a couple screws into the back wall to eliminate any potential for swaying. Current plans have it pushed into a corner, so it can only sway one direction, but I'm trying to build it to last so I don't know what it's future applications will be. I should probably take your advice and address any potential issue in the initial build.

 

[Firebrick43]

If you fill the legs you basically made a notice and tennon joint. No cross bracing necessary then. I did a similar construction but cut half of the mortice on each have of the leg before laminating together.

View media item 65368
I have done 4 benches this way and all are stout and absolutely no racking.

Learned about the method here.
http://picnicpark.org/keith/woodworking/workbench/BobAndDavesGoodFastAndCheapBench-ne.pdf

One bench is a woodworking bench as the article shows, two are work benches, and one a specialized reloading bench.

 

[Maddog10]

How tall are you? I think 38" is way to tall! Rule of thumb is the bench top should be the height of your knuckles while making a fist with your are hanging down at your side. Any more than an inch or to either way leads to discomfort. I am 6'1" and mine are all at 32-33" except a reloading bench at 36". It was done that way to get the press at the right height.


I would widen the legs out to full width for stabability. What are you clamping? I know from woodworking nothing beats a traditional style woodworkers bench top with two rows of holes for bench dogs. A top of laminated on edge 2x4's can inexpensively be done this way.

I'm 6'2. I plan on it being a standing workbench, or sitting on a stool. Kitchen Countertops are 36", and my dad has a 40" bench. I like his when standing, but it's a bit tall for sitting on a stool. I think 38" should be about right for what I'm looking to do.

I also wondered about stability since its a fairly narrow table, but I don't want to sacrifice clamping space and I also like having some additional room around each of the corners so that when mounting a vice I know I'm going to clear the leg supports. If stability proves to be a problem, I think I will probably end up screwing it into the back wall so that it can't sway or tip. I don't expect it to have stability issues, but hard to say for sure until I really torque down on it. Work with be mostly tinkering with DIY stuff and woodworking. Considered putting some holes for bench dogs but since this bench will also double for taking things apart and tinkering, I don't want to allow for the opportunity for small parts to fall through the bench surface.

 

[Maddog10]

Firebrick, thanks for the idea and link! What if I ran some 6" bolts through the legs and runner at each junction so that they are really clamping down on the horizontal? Would that essentially function in a similar manner as what you posted (although not as effective)? I like the look of the gaps, but at the end of the day it's a workbench and I prioritize functionality over appearance. I'd just like to have both.

 

[drivesitfar]

MD: i'm 6'3 and i made my kitchen countertops 38 inches and my wife who's 5'9 and i love them. i like my workbenches taller than the sort of standard 35-38 so if i make one it will be more like 40 as you mentioned.

there are a lot better designs out there and instead of a shelf you might want to inset an organizer or tool box or make sections for your computer if you want it to sit in there and not move around if you happen to bump it. some of the guys like locking casters too which you'd have to figure that in on the height.

here's a workbench thread you might have seen that has 1,000's of great workbenches. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=464

there is also this metal cabinet thread that has a few ideas of organizers you can buy to put inside your bench. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305350

one of my favorite workbenches is a simple butcher block 8 foot wide with metal frame that Gladiator sells and Costco had a cheaper Chinese knock off that i put a couple 33 drawer metal organizers under. here's the only picture i had handy and i've already changed it, but you get the idea.

good luck with your design, build and space you are transforming into a work place/man cave.

cheers

 

[astroracer]

Rule of thumb for work bench height is the bottom of your bent elbow. Most of my work benches are 41 or 42" high. I am 6' 2" also. Measure your elbow height and build to that.
I just built this bench out of a Craftsman roller cabinet. this is the 2nd one I built with the storage cubby's under the top. Very handy.
The top on this one is at 39" and it works okay.
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/another-rolling-work-center-50648#post72882
Mark

 

[Firebrick43]

Firebrick, thanks for the idea and link! What if I ran some 6" bolts through the legs and runner at each junction so that they are really clamping down on the horizontal? Would that essentially function in a similar manner as what you posted (although not as effective)? I like the look of the gaps, but at the end of the day it's a workbench and I prioritize functionality over appearance. I'd just like to have both.

They would work fine from a weight supporting standpoint but there is no wood joint that resist racking like a glued mortice and tennon

 

[Firebrick43]

Considered putting some holes for bench dogs but since this bench will also double for taking things apart and tinkering, I don't want to allow for the opportunity for small parts to fall through the bench surface.

A piece of Masonite is easy to remove/install, protects the top from damage and parts falling into the dog holes, and is cheap to replace if damaged.

I can assure you for heavy items, wood working, using a saw, hand planing, or scraping that way to high. You can't put your body mass into the tool if it's to high. Those taller height of counters and benches is for fine motor skill task and in the 40"+ ranges is for delicate work such as electronic soldering or jewelry/watch repair.

 

[Maddog10]

Drive, I scoured through several threads trying to figure out what I want and I still don't really know. I have a good feel for what I want on top, but as far as storage/shelving goes I'm torn. I want an open area in the middle so that I can fit my knees under the desk while sitting on a stool if need be, but I also want storage. To accompany that, I don't really have a nice toolbox or anything that I could design around, and without knowing what I'll end up with in the future I don't want to design myself into a corner that would require a great deal of changes down the road if I were to want to change something.

That lower shelf is certainly subject to change. In fact, I may just leave it out for now until I decide what I actually want. One consideration if I left it open was building an adjustable rolling cart that had drawers on the front and would fit nicely underneath the bench on locking casters. That way I could have a bench drawer system when I wanted that, or could roll the cart out and adjust it to the same bench height if I needed additional workspace. Possibly a half-shelf with the table/drawer system on the right side. I don't know yet. I just know I want to the leave the center open.

 

[drivesitfar]

Md: As said before most likely here or on other threads you'll be happier if you screw and bolt everything together no matter what plan you build. That was materials and changes can be made easier. Good luck

 

[racerex]

I just built a workbench similar in size to the one that you're looking to build. Mine is 7'6" long, 28" deep and 40" high. I researched the topic to no end and ended going with a design that was a take-off on GJ member JMARKWOLF's workbench. I went with 2x6's vs. 2x4's....as the price difference was minimal and "overkill" is my middle name. I'm very happy with how it turned out and the all-in build cost was just under $200. I still have to mount the vise, which is going to be placed on the left side.

 

[Jackfre]

All dimensions are contingent on what type work you are doing. I'm 5-10 and had a bench that was 40+" high and unless I was doing simple assembly I had my elbows up around my ears and could not get over any of the hand work with planes and saws. I cut it down to 33" H and reduced the depth to 22". It is less of a catch-all at that point...I hope. I have mounted a Record vice on it. I'm currently wrapping the edge with 8/4x3.5" oak. I think you will want the lower shelf mounted to the bench for stability if nothing else. It will help tie it together. My bench currently has 3high drawers on the shelf that are not working out for me. I'm not ready to pull them yet. I will make a rolling tool chest for my hand tools. Once I finish this one it is time to fab up the metal benches. What I've learned from all this is that based upon the way I work and the type of work, nothing is going to be perfect. Everything gets adapted based on what is going on in the shop.

 

[Sticks McGee]

All dimensions are contingent on what type work you are doing. I'm 5-10 and had a bench that was 40+" high and unless I was doing simple assembly I had my elbows up around my ears and could not get over any of the hand work with planes and saws. I cut it down to 33" H and reduced the depth to 22". It is less of a catch-all at that point...I hope. I have mounted a Record vice on it. I'm currently wrapping the edge with 8/4x3.5" oak. I think you will want the lower shelf mounted to the bench for stability if nothing else. It will help tie it together. My bench currently has 3high drawers on the shelf that are not working out for me. I'm not ready to pull them yet. I will make a rolling tool chest for my hand tools. Once I finish this one it is time to fab up the metal benches. What I've learned from all this is that based upon the way I work and the type of work, nothing is going to be perfect. Everything gets adapted based on what is going on in the shop.

Very true..

I just built a work bench for a friend. He wanted it to be 36" high and he wanted a lower shelf. He doesn't have much money to invest and I had some stuff laying around so I built it for him. He will not do any woodworking and he will most likely not do much of any assembly or diagnostic work at it. He has two small chest tool boxes and he wanted those to sit on top and be able to see in the tops of them. He wanted a lower shelf to set a few things on. This bench can stand free if need be or attach to the wall. He wanted it 8 feet long and 24" deep. The top is 3/4" OSB as is the shelf. I started out building the top. I wanted to have the OSB edges not seen so I took the 2x4s for the top and cut a rabbit in the inside of them 3/4"x3/4" I mitered the 4 corners. I put the four legs running on the inside of the legs down to the floor and screwed these to the top perimiter 2x4. Then I put 2x4s that I ripped 3/4" from running inside the outside ones and I ran them tight up to the vertical 2x4 for the legs to kind of "capture" the tops of the legs. I then ran boards from the front rail to the back rail of the top on 16" centers (the slightly ripped down 2x4s)I then measured the opening of the rabbits on top and cut the OSB to drop down inside of that. Top was screwed down at perimiter and to the "joists" running front to back on top. I notched the OSB to fit around the legs for the shelf and it just sits flush with the perimiter 2x4s for the shelf. Then I ran 2x4s against the leg 2x4s to double them up and screwed this all together. It turned out very sturdy and he is very happy with it..

 

[Maddog10]

Just got back from a big box store to pick up supplies and all was going well until time to get the 3/4" plywood. The stuff they had at that store was absolute junk. Huge voids, knots, warps, etc. I called an audible and picked up two sheets of 3/4" MDF, but now I'm second guessing myself. Hate when I have everything planned out and then something turns up, which is pretty much every time. I have no concerns about the strength/sturdiness of the mdf. I'm just wondering if at some point I'm going to wish I had better screw retention. Anyone have experience they'd like to share regarding mdf workbenches? I've researched it a ton and most seem to like them okay, it just wasn't what I had in mind.

 

[-Brent-]

I think you'll be happier with MDF over ply, actually.

 

[aka Larry]

MDF should work just fine...unless it gets wet. My bench is 1-1/4" MDF, but it's covered by a 14 GA steel plate.

 

[racerex]

I was planning on using a double stack of 3/4" MDF, but I happen to see a 4x8 sheet of finished plywood on a cart marked 70% off...two corners of the sheet were pretty beat up. As I only needed a 28" wide section, I decided to get the plywood for the top sheet....3/4" MDF for the lower sheet. If I had not seen the 70% off damaged plywood, I would've gone all MDF for the top. You'll be totally fine with using the MDF. I would just place a 1/8" thick sheet of Masonite on top of the MDF.....as the top will likely see some abuse in the future. That's what I did. I also have a 36" x 24" sheet of 1/8" steel that I placed on the bench......as I will likely be beating on rusty auto parts.

 

[Maddog10]

MDF should work just fine...unless it gets wet. My bench is 1-1/4" MDF, but it's covered by a 14 GA steel plate.

I don't foresee any instances where it would get wet, but would I be wise to put a sealer on it? Never worked much with MDF. Didn't know if a sealer would help at all? Or perhaps a layer of hardboard on top.

 

[racerex]

If you decide to apply polyurethane, use oil based poly....to avoid any swelling (no water based products). I'd also do 3-4 coats. As I noted above, go with a hardboard....it's cheap and easy to replace when it gets too beat up.

 

[Maddog10]

Here is a picture of the final product, but none of the horizontal surfaces are attached yet. Also haven't added trim yet.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on attaching the top two layers. I had originally considered screwing the bottom layer down, and then gluing the top layer onto it so that I have no visible screws showing on the work surface. However, that becomes a problem when the time comes to replace the top because I can't access those screws.

Option 2 is to just screw through both layers so that the screws would be visible, but replacement would be very easy.

It's looking like option 2, but I'd be interested to hear ideas. What if I attached the bottom layer to the frame with glue and brad nails, and then glued the top layer to that. That way it could be forcibly removed years down the road if necessary, and I could still avoid visible screws?

 

[Firebrick43]

I attach my tops with 1" wood dowels set into the top of the legs. I bore the holes in the legs and have a dowel location marker to go in the hole and mark the top. I then bore holes in the top. Check fit between the two and adjust with a round file. I then glue the dowel into the top of the leg. The top doesn't get glued down, just sets on it. This allows for easier moving as the top and base can be moved separately. Never had an issue with gravity doing the work of keeping on the dowels. This would also allow you to screw the bottom sheet to the top and replace it easier in the future. If you leave the dowels long and trim flush with the top and sand they would work well.

 

[drivesitfar]

MD: you might put a hardboard top on it that is maybe 1/4 inch thick to prevent stains from leaking into your bench top if you happen to spill something. screwing the top down sounds good and if you like a little cleaner look pick up some 1 by material (oak if you have some) of some decent wood and put a nice trim piece around the top edge.

good luck and it looks good

 

[Maddog10]

Drive, what are the advantages to hardboard vs MDF provided that I seal it with some type of shellac or similar? Is hardboard that much more durable, or will sealing the MDF still not give me the moisture protection I need if I were to, say, spill a beer or something on it?

I've ripped a leftover 2x4 I had to make some trim to fit around the edge. I don't have any quality hardwood like oak to use, but now that you bring it up I may look into that instead of attaching the 2x4 I've cut.

 

[drivesitfar]

MD: i was on my cell phone and it looked like your bench top was pressboard. if it is MDF then it's protection might be good enough. i like putting on Hardboard cause it provides some protection, is easy to replace if it gets trashed and i think it looks good.

if you can find something nicer than your ripped 2x4 that works, but the 2x4 should make it look ok for now. if you are using screws and bolts to put the bench together it makes it easier to make changes later if you want or need to.

cheers

 

[justanengineer]

I scoured through several threads trying to figure out what I want and I still don't really know. I have a good feel for what I want on top, but as far as storage/shelving goes I'm torn. I want an open area in the middle so that I can fit my knees under the desk while sitting on a stool if need be, but I also want storage. To accompany that, I don't really have a nice toolbox or anything that I could design around, and without knowing what I'll end up with in the future I don't want to design myself into a corner that would require a great deal of changes down the road if I were to want to change something.

For the next bench you might consider something with cabinets underneath. Used steel office cabinets are usually dirt cheap, provide great storage options, and are 1Mx stronger than the typical 2x bench legs. Like many I find the typical 2x bench way too light duty and a waste of potential storage space, the shelf underneath is pretty useless IMHO. I also like a thicker top on wood benches to screw directly into on odd occasions, with a top made of 4x I can plane it flat/clean and sink screws into with little worry of pullout.

 

[Maddog10]

For the next bench you might consider something with cabinets underneath. Used steel office cabinets are usually dirt cheap, provide great storage options, and are 1Mx stronger than the typical 2x bench legs. Like many I find the typical 2x bench way too light duty and a waste of potential storage space, the shelf underneath is pretty useless IMHO. I also like a thicker top on wood benches to screw directly into on odd occasions, with a top made of 4x I can plane it flat/clean and sink screws into with little worry of pullout.

Appreciate the suggestions. I like the cabinet idea. May keep an eye out for some of those and since everything is screwed together it wouldn't be difficult to change if I ever ran across some. It is a light duty bench compared to some of the monsters I see built on here, but should be more than adequate for anything I need to do on it. Not sure if I mentioned it in this thread or if it was in my build thread, but this bench is just going in an 8'x16' storage shed that I'm remodeling. I won't be working on any car engines or any heavy stuff like that, just mainly DIY home projects. My father's shop down the road is where the serious work takes place. Along with the space restrictions, I also wanted to keep the weight reasonable since I just have plywood floors. I was afraid excessive weight might lead to long-term warping of the floors.

 

[bill9860]

Looks indestructible. Probably withstand anything but a direct nuclear strike. Go for it.

 

[ckprax]

Screw the first layer of MDF to the 2x4 frame from the top down. Lay the 2nd layer of MDF on the first and screw them together from the bottom up. No screws are visible and you can take it all apart in the future.