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Thoughts on next steps...

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Merccooper

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Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
10
Hi All,
Been doing a lot of reading and now looking for input on next steps.
My garage floor was pretty pitted.
I did a lot of pressure washing.
Then attempted to fill the pits and level it by attempting to put a skim coat of Commercial Grade Quickrete Resurfacer. This failed miserably. First, because I wasn't very skilled at it. Secondly, I don't think it was the right product for what I was doing. I couldn't make it thin enough without having it too watery. (I don't have pictures of this step). I was left with a very very rough surface.

Then, I rented a grinder. I spent hours and hours grinding, Maybe as much as 8 hours. The dust was CRAZY! I'll likely spend another 8 hours just trying to clean up the dust!

So now, I have a pretty smooth floor with some spots that are still not completely filled (see the picture with the quarter in it). These are about a millimetre deep(about 1/16" for my USA neighbours).

So......what should I do next?
I had always thought I would epoxy then started considering Race Deck type tiles. Money is a big consideration, so I am still leaning toward Epoxy.
If I go Epoxy, do I still need to fill in those 1/16" voids, and if so, what should I use?
The garage is 400 sq feet. I'm in Ontario Canada and park the car in the garage during the winter.
 

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benwah

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May 21, 2014
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Crested Butte, Colorado
Use a 100% solids epoxy surfacer/filler to fill pits, bugholes, and cracks. There is a manufacturer on here that can suggest one of their products, I think it starts with an L and ends with egacy.

Apply an epoxy PRIME COAT to your whole floor.

Figure out what type of flooring system, you want. If you decide to go with Racedeck, then that would be your next step.

If you decide to stick with a liquid system, figure out if you want a solid color, or one with flakes. Do you require extra slip resistance? Do you require chemical and UV protection?
 
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M

Merccooper

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
10
Thanks for the input and questions, exactly what I need.
I don't know how I'll find that manufacturer that starts with and L and ends with Agency :lol_hitti
I've looked into them but since I would have to have it shipped to Canada, the expense would be too much.
I am pretty sure I'll go with liquid and with flakes. Non-skid is important. I don't think UV is important as the garage door is closed most of the time. Chemical, not so much, I work on outboards as a hobby, so there maybe the occasional spill that would get cleaned up pretty much right away. Ease of sweeping is important. Looking for products in Canada to avoid shipping. I read a post here from someone that used Rustoleum Professional Epoxy Shield that had good results. He even gave a status update about 18 months after installation. Was't sure if he had winter/salt to content with.
 
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benwah

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Understandable. I would stay far away from Rustoleum, it may seem like a good/easy idea, but to be honest with you, it's really not.

PM SENT
 
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M

Merccooper

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Oct 25, 2014
Messages
10
garageguy, when you say the epoxy is too thin I guess you mean its ability to soak into the cement and consequently urethane is thicker and does not soak in? Would putting down a primer coat prevent this level of absorption with epoxy? As far as hiring a professional, I would love to, unfortunately the cost of the coating alone is a stretch for me :sad: I'm beginning to think that I may have to suffer and just go with a good concrete paint. What I'm figuring is that since my garage to 400 sq feet and that most products indicate coverage of 400-420 square feet and that most people indicated they don't actually get the full 400 sq feet out of the product, that I'll have to buy 2 packages...and that is just too far out of my $$ range.
 
S

Shelby_sho

Member
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Jun 8, 2012
Messages
14
A lot of us have had good experience with the rustoleum pro solvent based kit. It won't cover those pits, some other product is required for that if you want it to look nice. Count on two coats, the first one will not be uniform in appearance.

It's a good compromise if you're not trying to make a show room floor and cost is a consideration.
 
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shaun oriold1

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Oct 9, 2011
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Location
Burlington,Ontatio
Where in Ontario are you. I use a warehouse in Niagara Falls, NY who accepts US packages for Canadians. Also depending on where you are located, you might be able to rent a better machine, with dust collection. 8 more hours and you can grind that floor pretty darn smooth and you can go the epoxy route.

Dont use concrete paint. You'll regret it within 6 mos.

IF you want to do tiles, I can suggest the name of a distributor in Etobicoke.

Shaun
 
L

LegacyIndustrial

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M

Merccooper

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Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
10
Thanks for the input guys.

Scotty, that second post sure looks a lot like the condition my floor was in.
Looks like at great finish. At least I know my floor is achievable.

Thanks Shaun for the suggestions.

I guess one of my challenges is having a 400 sqf floor. It pretty much doesn't matter which product I go with, I'll have to buy 2 in order to cover it properly. I'm not going for a show room finish, but I still want it to look good.

Since I don't think I'll have the $$ right now and the fact that the weather has turned (although the garage is heated and insulated), I am considering waiting until spring. If I do wait, am I risking damaging the cement through the winter (remembering that I have ground floor and that it is bare and porous)? My wife will be parking in the garage through out the winter, so lots of salt.
 
O

OJ Bartley

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May 18, 2009
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605
Location
Toronto, ON
Merc, I'd be tempted to wait, like you have suggested. I'd hate to see you make a decision that left you back here in 12-18 months posting about the problems you're having with your new floor. Wait until at least spring, and spend the winter reading up and comparing prices.

I'm in Toronto, and I decided to go with porcelain tile. The way I figured, it would be A) extremely durable; B) more forgiving, if still a lot of work, to install; and C) relatively price-comparable to the best epoxy systems when all is said and done (and shipped north of the border). I was scared by the importance of the prep work for epoxy, it seems like a lot of things "could" go wrong and even after grinding, etching, patching, priming, I have still seen floors with issues. Some slabs are too porous, sometimes it wasn't mixed properly... it just left me nervous. I kept watching and reading, and started monitoring the flyers for porcelain to go on sale at the big box stores, and when I saw a tile I liked for $0.85 psf, I decided to go for it. It took me a long time to do, and wasn't the easiest work, but now that it's done I feel like I have a very durable "lifetime" floor. Add in the cost of thinset, grout, a few tools, and I still wasn't too far off the quote for the epoxy I was looking at.

On the other hand, a neighbor of mine did his floor with epoxy from either Costco or a big box when it was on sale, and it has held up well for 2 years, despite the limited prep he did. So keep an eye out for that as well, and when you see something that looks like a good deal check it out on the forums to see if anyone has experience with that particular product.

I think either way you're best waiting to apply until the weather is warmer out, so that gives you lots of time to research and consider the options. And maybe to stash away a little more for your budget too, which always helps. You'll figure it out!
 
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M

Merccooper

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Oct 25, 2014
Messages
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Thanks for the input OJ.
I think I will hold off until spring, I just hope the cement doesn't deteriorate through the winter with the snow/salt
After seeing your signature line regarding porcelain I looked into it some more (I had always just assumed it would be too slippery. Seeing your thread, Dakota00's and bswoody's, I'm liking it more. My two concerns are:
- getting the floor level...this may take a TON of product
- ensuring the grout can withstand the salt and water

I guess I'll have all winter to research.
 
T

Turning Point Innovations

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Sep 26, 2014
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Location
1212-G Graphic Ct., Charlotte, NC
If you want to go the cementitious route with a product that will actually work, check with Hard Rock Development in Calgary and ask for SureCrete Design Products SureBroom repair mortar. You can trowel it to a smooth finish then seal it with clear for the RaceDeck install, or proceed with your selected epoxy system.
 
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Dakota00

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Mar 9, 2008
Messages
1,078
Location
Woodbridge, Ontario
Merccooper said:
After seeing your signature line regarding porcelain I looked into it some more (I had always just assumed it would be too slippery. Seeing your thread, Dakota00's and bswoody's, I'm liking it more. My two concerns are:
- getting the floor level...this may take a TON of product
- ensuring the grout can withstand the salt and water

I guess I'll have all winter to research.
Click to expand...

You need to figure out what type of flooring you want? I'm not here to change your mind to go with porcelain tiles. But I'll answer your 2 concerning questions you have.

You don't need to get the slab level, just fairly flat which doesn't take much material to do so. And with the proper grout, salt, water and oil will NOT penetrate or stain the grout.

If you plan to go the Epoxy route, make sure to educate yourself. Talk with and deal with one of the knowledgeable vendors on here.
 
O

OJ Bartley

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Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
605
Location
Toronto, ON
Merccooper said:
Thanks for the input OJ.
I think I will hold off until spring, I just hope the cement doesn't deteriorate through the winter with the snow/salt
After seeing your signature line regarding porcelain I looked into it some more (I had always just assumed it would be too slippery. Seeing your thread, Dakota00's and bswoody's, I'm liking it more. My two concerns are:
- getting the floor level...this may take a TON of product
- ensuring the grout can withstand the salt and water

I guess I'll have all winter to research.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the black hole of flooring options. :)

All tiles should have a rating for hardness and coefficient of friction (COF). Here's a shot from mine:

83hDMav.jpg


PEI 4 should be fine, PEI 5 (harder) would be ideal. The wet COF of 0.5 had me wondering, but it is actually quite good, after testing out my finished floor. It is very slippery if snow or ice get in (or on the front lip) but even 0.5 handles plain water surprisingly well.
 
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