To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Thoughts on replacement toolbox push handle?

tool_scrounge

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
4,212
Location
Southern California
I am fixing up a Snap-on KR557 tool box to take to work. It does not have the factory KR 402A handle as shown in the first two photos. While Snap-on probably still sells the handle kit, I have already spent too much with them on parts for this project. Since it is not a "collector" grade tool box, I am looking to make a suitable handle. I have access to a machine shop, but my welding skills are pretty rusty. Any suggestions?

For reference, the tool box is 18" deep and the four 1/4"-20 mounting inserts are in a 1" x 12.75" pattern.

I need to move my tool box occasionally but not very often.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • Snap-on KR557D tool box.JPG
    Snap-on KR557D tool box.JPG
    42.2 KB · Views: 86
  • Snap-on 402A tool box handle.JPG
    Snap-on 402A tool box handle.JPG
    35.2 KB · Views: 81
  • IMG_6416.JPG
    IMG_6416.JPG
    75.2 KB · Views: 77
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,486
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I have 4 push handles for 18" wide x 46" Husky roller cabinets that I'm not using. (built the cabinets into a narrow Steevo-inspired bench.)
Let me know if you're interested. I'll send you one if you pay shipping
 
Last edited:

lis2323

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Messages
3,234
I would use short length of steel rectangular tubing. Weld or bolt standoffs and finish the ends with plastic caps.

It would look like factory at a fraction of the cost.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Rickster

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,218
Location
SE PA
Square tubing as said above but for the standoffs use two open end wrenches welded to them. Or maybe some round tubing in a set of box end wrenches cut short for standoffs.
 

Parrothead

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
5,346
Location
Earth
Go look around at other tool boxes and order a similar sized handle from one of them. Snap-on isn’t the only company who made tool box handles. Maybe call Waterloo?
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,530
Location
visalia ca
I would use short length of steel rectangular tubing. Weld or bolt standoffs and finish the ends with plastic caps.

It would look like factory at a fraction of the cost.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This is what I was thinking
 

lilredex

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
5,956
Location
Toronto
You could also bend up a fancy aluminum strip like Beach did.

I don't have any aluminum, but do have some 3/8 X 1" steel stock that would make good handles. Cut half way through would make the sharp bends easy (weld up afterwards).
 

Attachments

  • Beach - Export 1B - B87.jpg
    Beach - Export 1B - B87.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 85

Bob-B

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
451
Location
Long Island, NY
I was able to find one of those handles for my taco cart on ebay for reasonable price. It was missing 1 of the aluminum spacers, but that was easy to make especially having 1 as a sample.
 

X1 Mike

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
8,389
Location
Flagler, Fl
If you have access to a machine shop there is no need to ask this question.

The thread should be "Look at this kick *** handle I made at the machine shop"

:dunno:
 

ToolPolisher

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
195
I have a handle I removed from my Craftsman 41" roller that might bolt up. If you care to take center-to-center measurements of the hole spacing I'll measure mine and see if it's a fit. You're welcome to it if it is since mine is a stationary home box.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

tool_scrounge

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
4,212
Location
Southern California
Wow - thanks for all the comments, offers of possible handles, and ideas.

In going with X1 Mike's "just make something" theme, I looked at a few make it yourself options.

Tool related handles -

- Crow bars, pry handles, axes , ice saws, pipe wrenches, alligator wrenches and bench vise handle (with two screw ends as the spacers) were all contemplated. The first ones were either too big or posed safety hazards for walls and coworkers. The bench vise handle seemed interesting but most folks would not get it.

- I did have a couple of orphan Craftsman raised panel double box end wrenches (1-1/16", 1-1/4" & 1-1/8", 1-5/16") as shown in the first and second photos. They look to be unused. The shallow offset makes using a wrench like this an option. But do you get turned in to the "Irony Police" for using a Craftsman wrench handle on your Snap-on tool box? :) Still an interesting option.

Non-tool related:

- For the industrial theme, ground shafting possibly combined with Thomson Rail pillow blocks were examined (third photo). But the ground shafts looked too much like other handles and the pillow blocks had too sharp of edges (would look neat though).
- 1-1/4" threaded rod (photo 4) looks nice, but the sharp edges were a problem. I did find the matching tap however

A more natural handle:

- For a more subtle effect, I did run into wood the could be interesting (top of photo 5). The slab of what looks to be teak wood could me finished quite nice, but it is a little thin (3/4") so I would probably mill a hidden slot for a metal plate to anchor the standoffs.

- On the oppose end of the wood spectrum is a leftover piece of a old hardwood maple butcher block bench top (1.1" x 1.8") - see bottom of 5th photo. I picked up a couple large used table tops years ago. One was good and the other was exposed to the elements and the old wood glue was coming unstuck. I re-purposed the less desirable one for so many nice machine bases and other projects where "over-kill" is not just a word but a theme. This is somewhat the "easy" solution in that while routing, sanding and sealing is required, it is really hard wood so there is no structural or reinforcement concerns. I'll probably skip staining as this wood is so dense it really does not stain effectively. I also found some nice stainless steel standoffs that would just need to be parted in half to use (photo 6).

From a cool factor, the wrench probably wins.

From a usability perspective, hard maple can be formed into something much easier on the hands.

I am leaning slightly more towards cool, but usability may win out.

Thanks again!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6501.JPG
    IMG_6501.JPG
    105.3 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_6503.JPG
    IMG_6503.JPG
    129.8 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_6502.JPG
    IMG_6502.JPG
    126.6 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_6498.JPG
    IMG_6498.JPG
    78.6 KB · Views: 43
  • IMG_6500.JPG
    IMG_6500.JPG
    108.8 KB · Views: 40
  • IMG_6504.JPG
    IMG_6504.JPG
    89.6 KB · Views: 50

wkndwarrior29

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
719
Location
NorthEast
I keep a junk pile for similar occasions, I had used a treadmill roller for a handle on a knaack box restoration recently. Unfortunately I do not have pictures and the box is packed away in my dad's shop. I used deep impact sockets to space it from the box, you could probably do something similar with the wrench.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,379
Location
Reading
I'd go with the double box end wrench.
machine 2 stand off blocks match the holes on the box and couple threaded holes take bolts through drilled wrench .
No welding required and look good done neatly .
 

ToolPolisher

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Messages
195
How about a camshaft from a 4 cylinder engine? It hits both marks: tool (automotive) related AND uncomfortable! Actually, a camshaft might be more comfortable to grab than a Craftsman raised panel.
 

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,486
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I'd go with the double box end wrench.
machine 2 stand off blocks match the holes on the box and couple threaded holes take bolts through drilled wrench .
No welding required and look good done neatly .

To use anything but a Snapon DBE wrench would probably cause the box to burst into flames.
 

pstemari

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
903
Location
Seattle
Piece of round bar or heavy wall round tubing for a handle, drill & tap two holes in the side, cut some tubing for spacers, and run cap screws from inside the box through the spacers and into the tapped holes. The hard part will be notching the ends of the spacers to fit the handle: easy with a mill, less easy with a drill press and a hole saw, and a royal PITA with a Dremel and file.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

Pittsburghpilot

New member
Joined
Sep 21, 2023
Messages
2
I have 4 push handles for 18" wide x 46" Husky roller cabinets that I'm not using. (built the cabinets into a narrow Steevo-inspired bench.)
Let me know if you're interested. I'll send you one if you pay shipping
I know this is an old thread but I am in need of one of those handles, do you still have them?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom