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Thoughts on this insulation install?

Dynasty

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Mar 7, 2013
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I am having a home built and they are beginning to insulate the exterior walls of the house. I stopped by to take a look and this is what I found. This is the current status of the insulation. What are your thoughts on their work?

To me this does not look correct or done professionally, but before I say something to the builder, I wanted to get GJ's opinions.

Walls are 2x6 construction with R-21 batt insulation.













 
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redneckcharlie

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Dec 26, 2009
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That’s half **** to say the least. Thats just plain lazy and sloppy. For insulation to work properly it should not be compressed. If that was like that on one of my job sites it would all be laying on the floor and being redone. Im not saying you should do that. That would not pass an inspection here nor should it. You should absolutely address that with some one you’re paying to do a professional job.
 

56Safari

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Jun 3, 2016
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That’s garbage work.. I’m just a DIYer and here’s what my paper faced installs look like 9f34dd1733999f1a7da45573f5d9add0.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Also wanted to note there are several areas on this wall where the studs are not 16” on center because the house was built in the 40’s, but can you tell? No, because if when you cut/trim insulation properly you can still keep the paper facing.
 

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ddawg16

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^^ THAT ^^ is how it should look.

Hell, even it if it was close to that, it would be OK....

I paid to have mine done....but they didn't staple to the outside of the stud, but rather to the inside edge. That way all my drywall was on the wood with no paper in the way.

The big issue with that hack job....part of the reason for the craft paper is to stop moisture....that hack job would let moisture move....as well as drafts.
 

03ranger

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Wickenburg, AZ
It’s not a HACK job, Hacks do better work that what was done. Was this insulation sub contractor or the General Contractor (GC) doing the work? Either way it needs to be pulled out and done right!!

If the GC is doing the work, I would be suspect of all of his work he has done on the job. If it was a sub, contact the GC and have it corrected.

Check “YouTube”; Owens Corning has videos on how Fiberglass bats s/b installed.
 

rayra

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garbage job. insulation compressed is money wasted. The pic in the 5th post it is SUPPOSED to be done. The flaps are supposed to go on top of the studs, not crushed down into the void. Make them pull it out and do it again.


eta put R-19 in my garage ceiling rafter spaces and cut my summertime garage temps by almost 20F

garageceilinginsulation.jpg
 
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Miss the Pontiacs

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Terrible job, but while you are at it who is responsible for vapour barrier for your electrical?
 

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OP
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Dynasty

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I’m glad we all share the same thoughts. I will be sure to adress this with the GC and have this corrected.
 
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kelpaso1

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Actually, that work is an insult to hack jobs. Also, isn't it the job of the electrician to install the vapor barrier when installing the boxes as Pontiac mentioned? If so that is 2 subs that FAIL. I would be reconsidering the GC you hired if he hires those kind of subs. What about the framing, foundation and other future problems?
 
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larry4406

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Agreed - very poor insulation job and would not pass inspection in my area.

Builder is also missing the air seal. We use caulk to seal the sill plates to the floor, all sistered studs to each other, and the double top plates to each other. Wonder if the builder also missed the fire stopping.
 

Toomanytools?

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You don't need the opinions of the GJ group, even to the untrained eye you know that is a **** job. In all of those photos I don't see one piece that is actually done right, the only good thing is the 3 gang electrical box seems to be done well.
 

JoeMcGov

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**** job.

Very very high probability that the insulation install work was done by "piece workers." Workers who get paid for their work "by the piece." For insulation it's typically by the square foot. Encourages shoddy work. And worse is that they may do the install work on Thursday and Friday morning and then (often industry standard) demand to be paid Friday by 1:00pm.

The HUGE failure is with the builder/general contractor. Whom likely is willing to accept this level of piss-poor work.
 

spam4us

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The insulation looks like it is used. The staple tabs have actually been cut off. The color looks like old insulation that was taken out from an old house.
 

yeldogt

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Well -- it's sloppy.

Fiberglass batts are designed for friction fit -- they are typically about 3/4 inch wider than the space. Idea is to have it fluffy throughout the cavity .. stuffing must be done with care.

Some of the "staple-less" products have a binder that makes them look "old" and dirty. The binder is designed for a couple things -- one being to cut down on leaking. My guess is you are looking at binder.

One must understand that even though batt fiberglass is the most widely used product in the USA -- it's flawed. The product R is based on no air movement -- and ... this never occurs.

Reading the various "instructions" throughout all the manufacturers -- one finds many inconsistencies and mutually exclusive ideas and theories. How can one manufacture advise tabs on the stud .. another show them inside ... and still others w/o any at all ? Studies show them to be about equal ?

Also -- remember the paper is a retarder of vapor .. not a barrier.

Take any batt insulated house .. no mater how well done and put you hand next to an outlet or switch plate -- leaking air. Why and where? Batt insulation can't stop air movement and this is why it does not work .. something else has to do this. The staple-less product has been shown to be = to the others in leaking .. because it retards flow.

All of the additional products sold that seal up a house are in an attempt to help the batts do its job. That's why Rockwool type product perform better . It's not 'R" .. it's air movement.

The OP should have the contractor address the obvious problems -- good insulation guys do a much neater job. Using a stick when installing really makes a difference. The electric being bunched up is better vs having it loose.

Doing a blower door test is the only way to find and eliminate leaks -- that's what really should be required.
 

scottydosnntkno

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The insulation looks like it is used. The staple tabs have actually been cut off. The color looks like old insulation that was taken out from an old house.

That’s what the new stuff looks like. It’s JM staple free mineral wool. There isn’t any staple tabs on it, it’s designed to hold itself in the bays.

While post 5 is the ‘perfect’ way to install insulation, your drywall also can’t be glued to the studs because they’re covered in paper. In the houses we build, our customers would be much more concerned with drywall pope that $2 extra on their utility bills.

We build hundreds of houses and condo units a year and all our insulation we have installed looks like this. It should pass inspection anywhere not the NE that requires a true vapor barrier. We don’t need to VB our outlets in michigan like shown above
 

Miss the Pontiacs

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Either for heat or cooling on a 2x6 wall I would use R24 and a proper heavy vapour barrier including electrical. It either costs you now or will eventually cost you more down the road to heat or cool your building. Just because it’s code today doesn’t mean it will be code in the future. At least the builder went 2x6 instead of the old school 2x4 but maybe that is code where you reside.
 
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