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Threaded rod to exposed floor joist attachment

2Fast

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What is the best way to do this?

I am thinking about making a shelf and the front of it will be supported by 3/8" threaded rod attached to the exposed floor joists above. At this point, I am considering use a 'side beam connector' that would get screwed into the center of the joist. At $.97 each they are pretty inexpensive. Any better ideas? (never worked with threaded rod before), What size wood screws to screw into the joist?

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RTBS

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What size eare the floor joists? How heavy will the shelf with contents be?

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2Fast

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gimlet rod 1/2 wood thread 1/2 threaded for a nut or rod coupling

Interesting - never heard of that before. Little hard to find, but Fasternal has them for around $1.50 each, but I would need to buy 25. But, I thought when it comes to joists, you weren't suppose to attach/drill holes on the bottom if possible and it was better to attach something to the center (width) of the joist?

What size eare the floor joists? How heavy will the shelf with contents be?

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Floor joists - 2 x 8's (shed type of structure with a loft). The shelf would only be about 12' long and basically at this point just light duty type of storage
 

ItsNemo

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Unistrut lagged into the joists can work too, they make hangers for threaded rod for it and it's adjustable.
 

SGKent

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How big is the shelf and how heavy are the things that will be stored on it? I use these for shelves. They are Simpson Strong Tie and are available with the other Simpson stuff in the lumber department of the big box stores. Stay out of the aisle with the home bracket stuff on it. They come in a couple sizes. You can also store pipe, vacuum wands etc., levels, in the triangles. Photo from blog.strongtie. com.

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2Fast

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I would use “sammies” for that. Use the wood lag style and you’re good to go.

Had to do some googling to figure out what those are. But, looks to be basically just another name/brand for a 'gimlet rod'? Again, is it preferable to hang something from the very bottom of a joist or are you better off attaching in the middle?

How big is the shelf and how heavy are the things that will be stored on it? I use these for shelves. They are Simpson Strong Tie and are available with the other Simpson stuff in the lumber department of the big box stores. Stay out of the aisle with the home bracket stuff on it. They come in a couple sizes. You can also store pipe, vacuum wands etc., levels, in the triangles. Photo from blog.strongtie. com.

Those look good, but I would like to come out a couple of feet if possible. I figured I could use a ledger board in the back lagged into the studs and then the threaded rod would support the front. At this point I am thinking of using the large clear plastic totes with the hinged lid that you see at Costco and Sams

garage-storage-wall-system-9.jpg
 

Lynden

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I use 3/4" diameter EMT conduit to support the front of the shelves I build. Flatten about 6" at the top and drill two holes. Put a 3/4" dowel 4" long in the bottom and drill one or two holes. The shelves are 1/2" plywood on a 2x4 rabbeted frame. The EMT attaches with hex-head bolts to the side of the joist at the top and with carriage bolts to the back side of the 2x4 frame at the bottom. If the ceiling has drywall, I bend the flattened EMT at a right angle and lag it to the bottom of the joist.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-10-ft-Electric-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Conduit-853429/100400406
 

jubilee

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I have a 12’ x 3’ shelf in the laundry room hung off the floor joists. I used plumbers tape to hang two 1/2” black pipe lengthwise and 1x12’s layed across pipe. Been there for over 25 years. Bet it has 300-400 lbs of junk on it.
 

MoonRise

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gimlet rod 1/2 wood thread 1/2 threaded for a nut or rod coupling

Also called a "hanger bolt".

https://www.boltdepot.com/Hanger_bolts.aspx

Except that the sidebeam connector that the OP posted has countersunk holes for a "flat headed" or "oval head" fastener to sit in. :lol_hitti

https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_2.aspx

RTMF, or in this case read the description. :spit:

Except that the lame Lowes page doesn't list that info in the specs/description. :headscrat

How about here instead?

https://www.allfasteners.com/side-beam-connector

Says to use a #14 flat head fastener.

Or here, where the manufacturer has a data sheet that says to use a #12 for the 3/8" version or a #14 for the 1/2" version.

https://phd-mfg.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/905_5-29-18.pdf

I'd probably prefer to drill a clean through hole through the joist and then put a machine bolt/screw though with a nut and nice big diameter washer (fender washer) to keep the nut side from sinking in and embedding into the joist.

Or just put some flat or oval head wood screws in and call it done. :lol_hitti Don't split the joist when you install the wood screws, predrilling might be a good thing (or a necessary thing if dealing with 'older' lumber that has gotten hard).

Depending on the orientation/location of the joists to the shelf, you can (or might need to) put some "blocking" in (2x the same height as the floor joist, put in between two joists that connects them and helps transfer loads from one joist to the adjacent joist(s) ).

example: (happens to show a deck, same idea for a house or a shed or a tree house :D )

https://www.decks.com/how-to/44/deck-blocking-and-bridging


And of course Simpson makes multiple metal things to let you accomplish your desired task.

Such as the "thread rod hanger". :lol_hitti

Has a wood screw section and a nut/coupler to install the hanger and then to screw the threaded rod into.

https://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/rw_anchor/p/wood-rod-hanger

Vendor who showed up in the google search for "threaded rod joist hanger".

https://www.fastenersplus.com/shop-by-product/construction-screws/threaded-rod-hangers

Advantage: One item, no having to install the sidebeam connector and two fasteners.

Simpson spec sheet, from fastenersplus

https://www.fastenersplus.com/SSP A..._webstore/img/PDF-Tables/Wood-Rod-Hangers.pdf

for the 3/8" threaded rod version, vertical tensile load is ~500 pounds vertical allowable load. Per hanger.
 
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