Three new torque wrenches...

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Hey guys. Just bought three new torque wrenches.

http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wr...2-micrometer-torque-wrench-30-250-ft-lbs.html

http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wr...8-micrometer-torque-wrench-10-100-ft-lbs.html

http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wr...e-micrometer-torque-wrench-30-200-in-lbs.html


I had two husky branded torque wrenches before and a craftsman. The craftsman was 3/8, 25-250 in/lb. I had a 3/8 husky from 10-100 ft/lb and a 1/2 from 25-250.

My new 1/4 goes from 30-200 in/lb. The 3/8 from 10-100. The 1/2 from 30-250.

My question is. Did I lose any range or gain any accuracy from the husky/craftsman to gearwrench? I know they're accurate only 20-80% off their range (or so I've read). My old 1/2 wrench had increments of 1 to adjust, my new one has increments of 2. Is that a loss or a null issue? The other two new ones go up in increments of 1. My old husky wrenches were made by kd tools (who I understand owns gearwrench). I bought these new ones to have a matching set as well as the o-rings on the old ones were broken, the rubber handles kept coming unglued and the adjustment clicker in the handle of two became so rough it was hard to turn, even tried flushing it out with wd-40. The locks were starting to become hit or miss as well. And the craftsman one had too fat of a head and I didn't like the twist lock collar. I got the three new wrenches for 285, but have time to send back. I don't understand why my older, slightly cheaper 1/2 wrench went 25-250 vs 30-250 and had a 1 ft/lb scale vs the newer 2 ft-lb scale. I don't know much annoy them other than how to use them...

 

[Treeman]

Yes, you lost a bit of range on your inch lb. wrench and have a bit of a gap between it and the 3/8 wrench.

Using the rule of thumb: accurate "down to 20% of scale" up to full scale , your new set up is:

3.4 - 17 ft. lb...........20 - 100 ft. lb...........50-250 ft. lb.

You have a small gap not covered between 17 to 20 ft. lb. that the 250inch lb. wrench would have achieved.

The 1 lb. vs. 2 lb. increments is moot, knowing that the whole torque measurement process has +/- 25 ft. lb. accuracy. Correction +/-25%%%%%


I'm curious to know if these Gearwrench torque tools are still made by JS Technologies in Georgia. The handle design is different.

EDIT: Oops - big mistake - Torque process is +/- 25%, not ft. lbs.. Sorry.

 

[Loscaldazar]

^^^

Pretty sure the gearwrench torque wrenches are no longer USA.

These were the old USA gearwrench torque wrenches Treeman http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wr...8-micrometer-torque-wrench-10-100-ft-lbs.html

Also, as Treeman said, torque wrenches are accurate down to 20% of scale, or in other words, from 20%-100% of the scale. Some are still accurate below this, but they aren't certified as such, or may be less accurate than what they are advertised in the sub 20% range. Plus, you won't know if they are accurate in that range unless you have it tested or calibrated for that range.

 

[T45]

yep, andthing with more than 5x and a cert is almost always very expensive

200+600 inch pounds is a nice overlap for the low and mid-torque units IMHO

The larger ones depends on what you do-- how much max and accuracy required etc.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Really all I've found use for with the inch lb torque wrench was in timing covers for bolts and for water pump bolts. I believe I also used it on my LIM in my GM 3400. A 3 ft lb difference between the in/lb and ft/lb wrench in their accurate ranges isn't that big of a deal I guess really, nothing I work on needs "perfect" layover. I probably will just keep them and use the 3/8 for a guideline below 20 ft lb. I guess it's what I get for wanting a full matching "set". They do make a 3/8 from 30-250 in/lb but I wanted 1/4 because most of what I've bumped into with in/lb has been in tight spaces or areas where I didn't want to have to use a universal and an extension. Most things I torque have a higher torque range the 3/8 torque wrench will cover. I use the 1/2 for axle nuts and wheel lugs. I guess I do still have my old wrenches though if I do need the gap covered... Thank you for your input. For my uses, what I own now should be fine though, huh? Or would you suggest I send back the 1/4 and buy the 3/8 from 30-250 in/lb instead? I like to be prepared lol.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I don't understand the obsession with micrometer torque wrenches. Get some split beams from Precision Instruments and never worry about them again.

Ease of use. Once it clicks I'm done. I thought about purchasing electronic torque wrenches but decided against it because they're not suited for "quick" work. Split beams are also sometimes hard to get into some places, where as a ratcheting click style isn't. I'd like close accuracy, but torque stretches to me are mostly to get me as close to perfect for anything engine wise with a gasket or interior if the engine. Sensor bolts, clamps, transmission lines, brake lines, etc. I don't torque. Upper intake I don't torque. Water or oil sealing gaskets and obviously head bolts I torque. Some suspension parts. Just easier to click. . I've used the snap on torque + angle and while they're nice, I would really only use one for daily engine work. It was great when doing head bolts. I guess as accurate as they are, I feel seeing 21.3lb on an electronic wrench is worse than setting a clicker to 20 and calling it a day. I'm weird... I know. Beam style wrenches also take up more room in the box. I did use a dial style "beam" wrench when I did LIM gaskets on my car the first time though.

 

[T45]

I agree that winding and unwinding micrometers is a PITA. and after a while you may choose to move onto other designs. I wouldn't worry about the small coverage gap if you like the tools you have. Just check your common maintenace routines. 25nm is common for spark plug specs, and this is 18 ft/lb and just in your range gap. Off the scale for a 20ft pound wrench and usually needs a 3/8 socket, so an adapter on your 1/4 setup. Although you could probably do 22NM (200in/lb) and a +quarter turn or whatever and be close enough (and/or use surface prep& adjust accordingly). Leaving you to fully wind/unwind the scale. every. single. time. But then again, if this is not a common issue based on your use case it matters less.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Lol. All I've mainly used is clicker torque wrenches. Unwinding isn't as much of a pain unless you're 3/4 up or higher. I do like the wrenches. The handles are durable, the readings are nicely stamped and legible, they click solidly and I do line the sliding collar vs the locking collar. I guess if I wanted to get close I could use the 3/8 for 18 and 19 ft lb, I'm sure it would be fine. Curiously, when I receive the 3/8 I'm planning on doing an unscientific test where I will torque a nut/bolt to 10 ft lb and up to 17 with the 3/8 and then since the 1/4 is all in the upper scale from 10-17, I'll check it with that wrench. If it clicks and doesn't tighten, I'll reverse the process and check the 1/4 with the 3/8 and see if it still clicks. I'll take it for what it is at that point.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Ease of use. Once it clicks I'm done. I thought about purchasing electronic torque wrenches but decided against it because they're not suited for "quick" work. Split beams are also sometimes hard to get into some places, where as a ratcheting click style isn't. I'd like close accuracy, but torque stretches to me are mostly to get me as close to perfect for anything engine wise with a gasket or interior if the engine. Sensor bolts, clamps, transmission lines, brake lines, etc. I don't torque. Upper intake I don't torque. Water or oil sealing gaskets and obviously head bolts I torque. Some suspension parts. Just easier to click. . I've used the snap on torque + angle and while they're nice, I would really only use one for daily engine work. It was great when doing head bolts. I guess as accurate as they are, I feel seeing 21.3lb on an electronic wrench is worse than setting a clicker to 20 and calling it a day. I'm weird... I know. Beam style wrenches also take up more room in the box. I did use a dial style "beam" wrench when I did LIM gaskets on my car the first time though.

I think you've fallen into the trap of thinking that split beam torque wrenches and beam (deflecting beam) torque wrenches are the same thing.

Split beam torque wrenches click when you reach the desired torque. They don't need to be reset to zero after use (no spring inside of them to fatigue), are easier to adjust to the desired torque setting (there is not pressure on the internal mechanism when not in use, so unlike a micrometer type where it gets more difficult to twist the handle to the higher torque settings, a little knob easily adjusts torque to the desired setting), are much more durable (almost everything is welded together on the inside, and there aren't small delicate parts to break or fatigue, so they maintain their calibration better in rough environments- like bouncing around in the trunk of a car), and all together are easily the best type of torque wrench available. It's a shame they aren't offered in 1/4 drive though (PI has tried to design one, but the click just isn't audible in a split beam torque wrench that size).

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Why didn't you tell me about these before? Now I beef to go do some research lol.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Oh, I have used split beam ones. I actually prefer these. My grandfather has a snap on version I used before I bought my own torque wrenches.

 

[Treeman]

At my workplace, my inch lb. wrench is a Techwrench. With delicate small fasteners, it's nice because you can watch the torque progress just like a dial wrench. But, they cost so much.

You will be fine with your setup. Once you get within a ft. lb. or two of your target, it takes surprisingly little more to get another lb. or two. Note, I can hear the grease monkeys laughing in the background about us discussing a ft. lb. or two. Most only use their torque elbow, and do it quite well.

I love my PI split beams in 3/8 and 1/2 too. Thank this forum for turning me on to these. But, it did take a bit of work to overcome my thinking about buying something "different".

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

At my workplace, my inch lb. wrench is a Techwrench. With delicate small fasteners, it's nice because you can watch the torque progress just like a dial wrench. But, they cost so much.

You will be fine with your setup. Once you get within a ft. lb. or two of your target, it takes surprisingly little more to get another lb. or two. Note, I can hear the grease monkeys laughing in the background about us discussing a ft. lb. or two. Most only use their torque elbow, and do it quite well.

I love my PI split beams in 3/8 and 1/2 too. Thank this forum for turning me on to these. But, it did take a bit of work to overcome my thinking about buying something "different".

If I could afford it, I'd buy a set of electronic + angle but have no real reason to buy one. I can see why you'd want a good wrench if you're dealing with small fasteners daily, they are so easy to over torque and ruin. I have what I like to call an addiction to over tightening things. Torque wrenches keep me honest. But I must admit, I don't always use them in easy to reach areas. The jobs requiring a gasket that seals liquids or in the case of a job last week, replacing timing chain tensioners and guides in a 2004 Nissan maxima, I used a torque wrench because the last thing I wanted to do was redo that job! I guess I pick and choose what I torque depending on how delicate. I think I also try to get the job done faster by not looking up torque specs (in a non professional environment). I really do need to get in the habit of torquing. Spark plugs are one thing I've never torqued, I just go until I feel the ring crush and stop. Some things you get a feel for, but I guess that's where torque elbow comes in, and I can't agree with you more there.

 

[T45]

Its also true that the easiest way to ruin a fastener is with a mis-used torque wrench. So there is always that to keep in mind. Not looking up correct values to "save time" is going to be a lesson you only learn the hard way. Its easier once you get in the habit, so good to get started ASAP.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Its also true that the easiest way to ruin a fastener is with a mis-used torque wrench. So there is always that to keep in mind. Not looking up correct values to "save time" is going to be a lesson you only learn the hard way. Its easier once you get in the habit, so good to get started ASAP.

I wasn't saying I guess with a torque wrench. If I feel it's something that doesn't need to be torqued or something I've done a few times and have an idea on torque, I just use a ratchet. Never have I used a torque wrench without knowing a torque value. Bad on me to just go off of feeling, but haven't had an incident yet. Which I guess is a good excuse to get in the habit of using a torque wrench.