Threshold

[psadler]

I'm installing a new side door (fiberglass, pre-hung) for the garage and the aluminum threshold is just a little above grade on the cement exterior path. I'm fixing to install the door in the rough opening, then trowel patching cement underneath the threshold.

Do any of you have hints or tips on building up cement under the threshold for this door install? Many thanks!

 

[kbs2244]

That is a big gap.
I would put down somw wet concrete then set the door frame down into it.
That should seal it pretty good.

 

[psadler]

I like that idea. That would make a good seal. Water has been an issue. Would you use premix concrete patch or from dry mix?

 

[buddyboy]

I'd take the door and jam out.

put a piece of azek or other pvc type board under the threshold.

reset the door jam in the opening, level and plumb, with the door down on the pvc or azek embedded in a good caulk.

your trim will cover the gaps on the sides and top.

 

[Tweeker]

Whats the inside pic look like?

 

[psadler]

The path is not so level so it will be difficult getting the thickness of a board customized to fit underneath. I think cement is probably the most accommodating. I just need to pick the right cement that will dry evenly and not crack.

There are no predrilled holes for anchoring the threshold, so I assume glueing is the way to go. Maybe some silicon calking too.

 

[readhead]

All the concrete products you mentioned will shrink when they dry. Non shrink grout will work fine in this case.
You might also consider building up with tapered wood shims out of PT material glued in place to the existing concrete.

 

[psadler]

I was thinking a fine cement, and that is grout. That makes sense.

Can you further explain "tapered wood shims out of PT material glued in place to the existing concrete"? PT = Pressure Treated? Are you suggesting using PT shims first to stabilizing the threshold, then filling in with grout to cover?

 

[Zeke]

The composite deck board is a good idea if you can get a 1 inch thick piece off an end somewhere. Build it up level with builder's shims (narrow shingles) set in roofer's mastic. That's just one way to do it.

Tile grout doesn't have enough aggregate in it to be of much use. Add some admix and real coarse sand or fine pea gravel and it would be better. I'd use plain ol' mortar mix and have many times. Either mix it stiff and pack it in there against a a backer or set the frame in the wet mud. You need to create little piers it you set in wet mud so you can press it in the mud with your foot. You want it to stop right where you plan.

Always clean and pre moisten the base concrete before using mortar or modified grout.

You say water has always been an issue. Mortar will absorb water. You'd be well of the hold the under fill back a little on the outside, let the mortar cure and coat it with water proofing.

If I was doing this, I'd build what I needed out of wood in a wedge shape and wrap the thing in bituthane and set the threshold on that. No water getting past that if you seal the ends well. An extra layer of bituthane under and over the wedge and even the Earth's eventual conquerors won't be able to get that door out.

 

[tcianci]

Zeke's comments make the most sense. Just remember that he said MORTAR, not cement. Both are portland cement based products but mortar has additional lime in the mix that gives it it's "squish". Cement wont squish out like that and you will end up with a mess.

 

[Zeke]

Zeke's comments make the most sense. Just remember that he said MORTAR, not cement. Both are portland cement based products but mortar has additional lime in the mix that gives it it's "squish". Cement wont squish out like that and you will end up with a mess.

Thanks. This was my profession for 25 years out of 44 total in construction. That is, installing doors and windows. I'm still at it part time at age 69.

 

[psadler]

Zeke, I appreciate your knowledge, years of experience and passion to help others. This is the third door installed in the past 15 years in this opening. I want to get it right and not deal with it for a very long time.

I had forgotten to remove the temp footing on the door frame in previous pictures. In this time I've removed the temp footing and you can see the threshold is a bit lower.

I like bituthane method, but at a couple hundred dollars a roll, the amount of bituthane needed is minimal and not cost effective (unless there ways to procure small amounts?). But it would keep the water out.

I'm leaning towards using the mortar mix, setting the frame in wet mud.If I go this route, is it necessary to glue the threshold to the concrete?

 

[mechanix311]

I actually just went through this 2 days ago. I used a concrete cup wheel on a grinder and ground down the concrete until level. It was a good 1/2 inch higher on one side. I then got a PVC door jamb 3/4x6x80, cut it down to 36 inches and used pl to adhere it to the concrete. Set the door on top and finished the front edge with a aluminum sill nose. Came out fantastic and the pvc will not rot over time. Your threshhold seems to be hanging pretty far over the actual foundation. Any way to get a shallower threshold door that only goes as far as the jamb. I bought my door at home depot and they had flush threshold doors and extended ones like yours. Good luck and keep on doing what you are doing.

 

[Zeke]

No way is bituthane that much money. You're looking at full width rolls. Look into bituthane window flashing. I've bought rolls for 30 bucks of some sort. It's not all exactly the same but it does the same job.

BTW, HD sells a product called Flash Mate that is the toughest **** I have ever encountered.

 

[DangerousDan55]

I had something similar. My two corner post on my metal building was above the slab by 1-1/2" due the the slope of the drive. the posts were held by anchor bolts & nuts belowe & above the post plate.
I made some small forms around the post plate, sealing two sides of the form to the plate. Left a opening on one side for a vent. The remaining side I made a elevated funnel to fit the form & plate. Bought some non shrinkage concrete grout mixed & poured it into the funnel. Kept pouring until it came out the other side where the vent was. Tapped the plate with a hammer to work out air pockets. Removed the excess & let it set up. Worked great!
Need to roughen the slab & apply a concrete/grout primer.
need to wax the forms where it contacts the poured mix.

Now I did get a couple of hair line cracks bit it held together.

At my daughters house we had your situation & I packed it with the grout type mixture. It worked good also with a lot of foot traffic.http:// [URL=http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/DangerousDan55/media/b53868a6f0174544975b0c3709704f01_zps900fba25.jpg.html] [/URL]