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Throatless shear shopping

Ben LeBlanc

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Sep 12, 2015
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I am trying to build my project on a budget, but now I got to the body work portion of the build, and I got a lot of patch panels to make. That being said, my neighbors have been complaining about my loud grinder usage, and I figure a shear is the right way to go.

Here are my options:

Eastwood throat less shear:
http://www.eastwood.com/throatless-shear.html
After alliance discount: (10%) (hamb)
$162 (Same as Jegs price)
Said to run though 14 gauge

Baleigh Rotary shear:
http://www.baileigh.com/multi-purpose-shear-mps-3
After alliance discount: (5%) (hamb)
$186
However, it is supposedly able to run up to 12 gauge.

Black horse candidate:
Woodward Fab Rotary shear:
http://m.northerntool.com/products/..._sku=1455061&gclid=COzfgN-K-8oCFQseHwodMbwJuA
$169
Supposedly runs through 1/8th inch! However, I would have wanted the 'name brand' Baleigh at this price, unless told otherwise.


I do not want to waste money on something that I will throw away later, but I am 20, and am building my model A on a budget. So, any experience? Sadly I do not want to wait a couple years for a Beverly to show up on Craigslist at a good price. Thanks.


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txvwnut

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I think I would go with the Eastwood one, its a copy of a Beverly shear and those have been a mainstay in many of a fab shop that does sheetmetal. The other two are rotary shears and I think you may get tired of all that ratcheting action to make a cut. While Eastwoods stuff is made over seas they do put some quality control in it. I've got their shrinker stretcher combo and it is a decent product.
 

bczygan

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Harbor Freight sells one too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/throatless-shear-38413.html

image_17266.jpg
 
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ilovevocs

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Toledo, Ohio
I own and use the HF unit for gauge work. Looked for a used Beverly for years, and it's just too expensive for the capacity I would use buying new.

I wish I could justify the expense for everything to be top end USA tooling.

Look at the capacity of the Beverly's. The bigger units shocked me.

I know nothing of the Eastwood unit.
 

DBendr

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Dec 30, 2015
Messages
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I'm a nibbler guy-air shear user myself.The Milwaukee is 10 ga. wicked but you're at $1000 already.A good air shear is $100-150. Half that used. Ingersolls are decent.
Neighbors. Oughta be a law against such things.
 

ritestuff

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Little Rhody
I have both a Beverly B1 and a B2, and I feel that they are worth every penny. Still made one at a time in the US. Unbelievable customer support too. I called them once asking to buy a new data plate (name badge) for a used one that I bought at a swap meet. They sent me a new badge and an original owner's manual, and refused to take any payment from me. If you ever find one at the right price, jump on it.

Back to your dilemma. I haven't tried any of the ones you mention, but a friend of mine has the Eastwood and it works fine for his needs. Whatever you do, resist all temptation to buy the Harbor Freight "Beverly Shear Wannabe" looking thing. That thing doesn't look like it couldn't cut a slice of baloney.
 

bczygan

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I have both a Beverly B1 and a B2, and I feel that they are worth every penny. Still made one at a time in the US. Unbelievable customer support too. I called them once asking to buy a new data plate (name badge) for a used one that I bought at a swap meet. They sent me a new badge and an original owner's manual, and refused to take any payment from me. If you ever find one at the right price, jump on it.

Back to your dilemma. I haven't tried any of the ones you mention, but a friend of mine has the Eastwood and it works fine for his needs. Whatever you do, resist all temptation to buy the Harbor Freight "Beverly Shear Wannabe" looking thing. That thing doesn't look like it couldn't cut a slice of baloney.
So you think it could?

Seriously, have you tried one? How does it "look" like it wouldn't work?

Sorry, but I'm getting just a little tired of people making assumptions without experience or evidence.

And you obviously have experience on the Beverly. What's "the right price"? And what to look out for on used ones?

Let's make this a useful thread with all the options and information.

Bill
 
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bczygan

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yaidunno

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A close look at the Eastwood and HF shears tell me that they come from the exact same factory in China. I’d be willing to bet my next paycheck on that. Neither of which compare to a genuine Beverly, but they certainly are an affordable alternative for someone who’s looking for just that. The same shear can be had from Baileigh, Woodward, or any other company who imports from China and adds a sticker. It is possible that Baileigh is doing a bit to tighten up tolerances/define quality control. For the added price, I'd hope that one receives a better product.
 
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OP
B

Ben LeBlanc

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Sep 12, 2015
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Do good wiss or benchmade snips tear through 18 gauge? I had some tekton snips from a purchase more than a year ago, and they couldn't cut it reliably, or easily...
Just trying to find an inexpensive way in, if anyone can help.


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2mJps

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north central Mo
Ben i hope you buy the HF one so you can tell use about it i am realy thinking about geting one. I guess the HF can be returned if it doesnt work out. I bought a milwakuee cuter it cost big money and works ok but i think a beverly shear or knock would work better cuting patch panels.
 

nine4gmc

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I have a HF one that I got off CL for $20 a few years back, it cuts the **** out of 16-20ga sheet metal easily. That's about all I have tried with it so I can't comment on any other thickness or reliability because I rarely use it. FWIW, I would try the HF with a 20-25% off coupon before paying full price on a name brand that could have come from the same factory. Another option is to put a wanted ad on CL and see what the locals have to offer, that way you aren't waiting for a gem to surface.
 
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Stooge

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I wonder how much you could buy the chinese OEM version of the rebadged Baileigh one :lol:
The eastwood one is probably in there somewhere too but i didnt bother to look, but atleast eastwood is more upfront about their overseas products and are generally priced accordingly

http://ttmc.cn/Sheet_metal_workingl/Shearing/148.html
Most of baileighs metal tooling catalog can be found here
 
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Strouty

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Southern Maine
OP, have you looked for a used Beverly? I bought a nice B-3 for $350 and I know you could find a smaller one for close to the price of the imports. Definitely a tool that lasts a lifetime.
 

PugetDude

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I've been looking for a used Beverly for two years, ever since I used my neighbor's B1. It cuts 26 gauge sheet metal so smooth it will bring tears to your eyes, no distortion, no buckling, no tearing. I was able to split a pencil line the first time I used it. A really nice bit of US iron; good luck finding a used one.

Edit:
One on eBay: $439 starting price, no bids.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-BEVERLY-B-1-THROATLESS-SHEAR-/121895842577

$585 new at tinmantech.com
 
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rmack898

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Honu Grove NE Florida
I have a B1 at my day job that I use all the time. I have the HF B1 knock off at home and for $99, the HF is a pretty good little shear. It still cuts as good as the day I got it about 5 years ago and still has the original blades in it.

I have heard from others that Beverly B1 blades will bolt right in the HF shear but I have personally never checked to confirm it as being fact.

With a 25% coupon I think it's a worth while tool but if I ever come across a B1 for $300 I'm buying it.
 

Stooge

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I have heard from others that Beverly B1 blades will bolt right in the HF shear but I have personally never checked to confirm it as being fact.
.

I've actually heard the same thing, I think it was on here where someone was building a mobile cutting station. if its true, that would make it a great buy for the money, now we just need a guinea pig to confirm it
 

ritestuff

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So you think it could?

Seriously, have you tried one? How does it "look" like it wouldn't work?

Sorry, but I'm getting just a little tired of people making assumptions without experience or evidence.

And you obviously have experience on the Beverly. What's "the right price"? And what to look out for on used ones?

Let's make this a useful thread with all the options and information.

Bill

Honestly, I've never used the HF version. My opinion of them is solely based on the display model that I checked out at my local HF store. The first thing that came to my mind was that the casting looked poor in comparison to the Beverly. The handle and hardware looks cheap and feels "sloppy". One of the blade adjustment/alignment screws looked ****-eyed, and after I gave it a closer look, it was apparent that the threaded hole was bored off center. If you put the two tools side by (Beverly & HF), they look and feel totally different.

Now I'm sure that the HF shear will probably cut what it's rated for, but I wouldn't bank on precision when making a contoured cut in the heavier gauge material. It's simple, a Bentley and a Kia will move you from point A to point B, but if you're gonna be pushing hard on high speed, hair pin turns, which car do you want to be driving?

Anyone that owns one can test it's capability for himself. First you adjust/dial in the cutting edges to exactly where they have to be. That means that you should be able to cleanly slice through a single sheet of toilet paper without ANY binding or pinching. Once you have accomplished that, take a 1/4" stainless steel hex bolt and chop it in two. Then try the toilet paper test again. If the HF shear cuts the TP as cleanly as it did before it had the shitload of lateral stress put on it while cutting the bolt, it passes the test. The B1 Beverly will pass that test 100 out of 100 times.
 

PugetDude

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Honestly, I've never used the HF version. My opinion of them is solely based on the display model that I checked out at my local HF store. The first thing that came to my mind was that the casting looked poor in comparison to the Beverly. The handle and hardware looks cheap and feels "sloppy". One of the blade adjustment/alignment screws looked ****-eyed, and after I gave it a closer look, it was apparent that the threaded hole was bored off center. If you put the two tools side by (Beverly & HF), they look and feel totally different.

Now I'm sure that the HF shear will probably cut what it's rated for, but I wouldn't bank on precision when making a contoured cut in the heavier gauge material. It's simple, a Bentley and a Kia will move you from point A to point B, but if you're gonna be pushing hard on high speed, hair pin turns, which car do you want to be driving?

Anyone that owns one can test it's capability for himself. First you adjust/dial in the cutting edges to exactly where they have to be. That means that you should be able to cleanly slice through a single sheet of toilet paper without ANY binding or pinching. Once you have accomplished that, take a 1/4" stainless steel hex bolt and chop it in two. Then try the toilet paper test again. If the HF shear cuts the TP as cleanly as it did before it had the shitload of lateral stress put on it while cutting the bolt, it passes the test. The B1 Beverly will pass that test 100 out of 100 times.

Why would anyone cut a stainless hex bolt on a Beverly shear?
Your analogy is like testing 1/4" ratchets with 4' cheater pipe...
 

iajonesy

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I have an 8" Woodward Fab throatless and it works very well. I think the cost was around $170 and that was shipped to my door. If you are only using it once in a while, I can't see spending twice as much for a used Beverly. Just my 2 cents.

Mike
 

ritestuff

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Why would anyone cut a stainless hex bolt on a Beverly shear?
Your analogy is like testing 1/4" ratchets with 4' cheater pipe...

Because it can? Of course it's not a recommended use for the shear, but the B1 cuts the bolt nearly as easily as a pencil. The point I am making is that the B1 frame won't distort, or the blade adjustment won't shift, even after severe lateral stress is imposed upon it. Something you will encounter when cutting heavier gauge material. From what I saw with the HF "clone", I highly doubt that it would still cut the toilet paper after the bolt. As a matter of fact, I'd be really impressed if it could be adjusted precisely enough to even cut the TP in the first place.

As for my analogy, it's not even in the same ball park as your example. The cheater bar will break the ratchet. The bolt will not break the B1. Maybe it's just me, but I appreciate a well built quality tool that performs above and beyond even what the manufacturer rates it for. It greatly reduces the chances that a tool will fail during an important, time sensitive project.

I guess it's just a difference of general philosophy for some people. I use these metal fabrication tools to make a living, and as a professional craftsman, it make more sense to me to use the best available tool for the job. It makes my job easier, faster, and ensures a higher quality finished product. I'm actually quite ok with the fact that there are others who settle for using inferior tools or substandard materials in their work. It makes it easier for me to "outshine" the competition in a competitive market. You're either the lead dog, or you spend your life staring into another dog's ***.
 

finn

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The HF is fine for my limited home use.

I'd like a Beverly, as well as a Bently, and $50,000 worth of Snapon tools, but frankly I also get tired of peanut butter sandwiches and bologna.

If your budget is ok for a $500 shear that you'll use maybe once a month for the next 10 years, or you can't figure out an alternative method of cutting bolts except with your shear, then go for the Beverly.

The rest of us are probably ok splurging on a HF knockoff until the magic deal on a Beverly comes along, or we find that we're using it enough to justify an upgrade.

I think mine was less than a hundred dollars, plus I found a set of spare cutters on the clearance rack for another $5, should I chip the originals.
 

djjsr

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I've had the HF shear for several years. When I got it, it didn't cut very well. A little work on re-aligning the blades and it's been just fine. I've never cut anything thicker than 16 gauge.
 

2mJps

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I bought a HF shear at the first of the summer and I made a plate for it so i can clamp it in the vice. I am not disapointed in it it does what it was made to do at a very low cost. This is a great tool for home shops or any one that hasent won the lottery. One resone i bought one was because i didnt know how usefull one would be so i didnt want to spend alot.
 

jumbojak

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I had a Northern version of that shear for a while. The only trouble I had was that the blades were a bit on the brittle side and tended to chip on thicker material. Maybe quality has improved but I'd buy another in a heartbeat if I had the need. It worked.
 

dmcintosh

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Smyrna, DE
I am trying to build my project on a budget, but now I got to the body work portion of the build, and I got a lot of patch panels to make. That being said, my neighbors have been complaining about my loud grinder usage, and I figure a shear is the right way to go.

Here are my options:

Eastwood throat less shear:
http://www.eastwood.com/throatless-shear.html
After alliance discount: (10%) (hamb)
$162 (Same as Jegs price)
Said to run though 14 gauge

Baleigh Rotary shear:
http://www.baileigh.com/multi-purpose-shear-mps-3
After alliance discount: (5%) (hamb)
$186
However, it is supposedly able to run up to 12 gauge.

Black horse candidate:
Woodward Fab Rotary shear:
http://m.northerntool.com/products/..._sku=1455061&gclid=COzfgN-K-8oCFQseHwodMbwJuA
$169
Supposedly runs through 1/8th inch! However, I would have wanted the 'name brand' Baleigh at this price, unless told otherwise.


I do not want to waste money on something that I will throw away later, but I am 20, and am building my model A on a budget. So, any experience? Sadly I do not want to wait a couple years for a Beverly to show up on Craigslist at a good price. Thanks.


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Curious what you decided to do. I am considering a similar purchase. Leaning away from the HF version, and cannot justify the price of the Beverly. That leaves the Baleigh, the Eastwood or the Woodward Fab. Also looking at a shrinker/stretcher machine.
 
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