Thru the Wall AC unit
- Thread starter fortee9er
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zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
How about as close as you can get it to the garage door on the side wall then?
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Do you have a place planned out to set the condenser/heat pump? If so, that might make placement easier to decide on. With most wall mounts you can aim the air flow vanes. So setting them to blow the widest, I'd want to cover the widest area. Look up the units you are looking at specs. There is usually a diagram of air flow and how far it spreads. That could also give you ideas. my best piece of advice is to find a basic free manual j calculator on the web and see what you need for capacity before you decide which style and size of unit you buy. As always shout out any questions you have and good luck
You can find foam in larger quantities. Just google DIY foam insulation.
You can find foam in larger quantities. Just google DIY foam insulation.James-W
Well-known member
When I built my garage I had considered a mini-split, but after careful consideration I decided against it. I went with two separate units, a window air-conditioner, and a Hot Dawg heater that runs on natural gas.
I put the air-conditioner in when it gets warm in the Spring and I take it back out in the Fall. It only takes me about 10 minutes to put it in or take it out. The Hot Dawg heater puts out a whole lot of heat and the heat output is not dependent on outside temperature.
I put the air-conditioner in when it gets warm in the Spring and I take it back out in the Fall. It only takes me about 10 minutes to put it in or take it out. The Hot Dawg heater puts out a whole lot of heat and the heat output is not dependent on outside temperature.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Yep, "winter" or "cold front " in Houston means 60s and you can open the windows without suffocating.
Fixin'Stuff
Well-known member
Marctrees
Well-known member
There are NO window or wall AC made any longer in USA.
ALL are foreign, most Chinese.
Friedrich was the last holdout, made in TX, no longer.
Sad world. Marc
ALL are foreign, most Chinese.
Friedrich was the last holdout, made in TX, no longer.
Sad world. Marc
Can anyone help me? I know nothing about these unit's and don't want to buy a **** brand. Thanks
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Viper, if you really want to go down the road of a PTAC, i would shy away from the GEs. Amana's are pretty well received, but get a push button control model. Don't get a touch pad unit.
I think you'll find you end up being close to the purchase cost of a DIY mini split, but the efficiency of a PTAC is a lot lower.
Tommy
I think you'll find you end up being close to the purchase cost of a DIY mini split, but the efficiency of a PTAC is a lot lower.
Tommy
rockwithjason
Well-known member
fridgidaire makes a pretty good unit, so does GE
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Frigidaire doesn't make anything larger than 15k and they're homeowner quality.
Tommy
Tommy
LutzTD
Well-known member
I have a GE remote control 24000 BTU window unit with a circulating fan in my 20x40 12ft to 18ft high steel roof concrete building. radiant barrier on the metal roof, uninsulated door and concrete walls. I leave the unit set at 80 and it runs a little bit in the middle of hot days which keeps the humidity down and keeps my machinery from rusting. When i'm out there on the weekend I can set it to 70 in the morning and feel it right away because of the circulating fan, then it will run all day because it will never get 70 in florida heat, but it is very comfortable to work in.
The mini splits were cost prohibitive for me, and the window unit was around $390 on sale at Walmart online. When I do the addition I will likely switch over to Bard through the wall units as well, they are completely closed systems so they last a long time and used ones come up all the time for around $300 for 3 ton units. I may do a fan assisted duct to distribute the air since it can be ducted by design where the window unit cannot.
the key for me was the roof radiant barrier, before I did that the steel roof made cooling the space impossible.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3280161&postcount=182
The mini splits were cost prohibitive for me, and the window unit was around $390 on sale at Walmart online. When I do the addition I will likely switch over to Bard through the wall units as well, they are completely closed systems so they last a long time and used ones come up all the time for around $300 for 3 ton units. I may do a fan assisted duct to distribute the air since it can be ducted by design where the window unit cannot.
the key for me was the roof radiant barrier, before I did that the steel roof made cooling the space impossible.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3280161&postcount=182
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Thank you for the reply. I must admit I'm not very familiar with mini splits. But the main reason I want the thru the wall unit is because I already have the hole in the wall. I currently have a 14k unit cooling a little over 800sqft. It does good but I'm wanting to upgrade to something better and I'm reading based on my square footage, that I should have a 18k.
I can't find anything online that fits my requirements. Not sure if I'm just looking in the wrong places but the wall ones I'm finding only go up to 14k and all the others are window units.
Falcon67
Well-known member
My 8K Frigidaire lased one (1) season. I'm on my 2nd season with an LG and so far so good. And the LG moves over 100% more air than the F unit did. Way better unit IMHO.
TexasKen
Well-known member
Falcon67, how big is your garage? The LG unit you have is for 1500 sqft, so wondering how well matched the stated cooling space is to what actually works. My garage in Richardson (similar weather conditions to Houston and Merkel) is about 480 sqft and I'm looking at an GE 12000BTU unit rated for 550 sqft. Wondering if I should get a larger unit especially since I will have a cathedral ceiling. thanks for any advice.
Fortee9r, crazy thread! What kind of units did you go with and how is it working?
Falcon67
Well-known member
The 8K LG unit serves a 12x24 work area with 8' ceiling and the older Samsung 10.5K serves a 672 sq/ft area, same 8' ceiling. Total is 960 sq/ft. The LG has no problem keeping 72 and can get it there pretty quick. If I plan to work in that room in summer I usually set the LG to come on about 30 minutes before I get home. The 10.5K does well in spite of the larger space, but it would be better if it was a 12 or 15K. I keep a ceiling fan running to assist it when it's on. It was a left over from the old house, so operational and no cost = use it.
You are more humid - generally - than we are. (I'm originally from Fort Worth). The 20x24 shop I had before this one was served by a 12K unit (forget the brand) and it worked well. With the higher ceiling (more volume), I might think about a 15K unit and a ceiling fan.
You are more humid - generally - than we are. (I'm originally from Fort Worth). The 20x24 shop I had before this one was served by a 12K unit (forget the brand) and it worked well. With the higher ceiling (more volume), I might think about a 15K unit and a ceiling fan.