Tie Rod Removal Tool
- Thread starter bmwpower
- Start date
Bobby B.
Well-known member
While I'm sure the high end brands all have something, I took the low brow route and grabbed a TRE and a pitman arm puller from autozone for cheap and they get the job done. I was hoping they'd last the steering job I was doing (they did) and have been pleasantly surprised that they've lasted through several others for friends. (The pitman arm puller, especially, given the torque holding that sucker on.) Has worked on both my Nissan stuff and Dana 44 stuff.
The TRE puller now lives in the "trail tools" box in case someone bends a tie rod adjuster off roading. It's been like a timex -- just keeps on ticking.
Again, for the price and ease of obtaining, it's been more than worth it, especially if you have something that you need off now.
Hope this helps.
The TRE puller now lives in the "trail tools" box in case someone bends a tie rod adjuster off roading. It's been like a timex -- just keeps on ticking.
Again, for the price and ease of obtaining, it's been more than worth it, especially if you have something that you need off now.
Hope this helps.
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
Sears carries quite a few different K-D brand tie rod removers. I have had success with both the screw kind and the pickle fork kind. I have a set of pickle forks (tie rod, pittman arm) that fit in my air hammer that I got from Sears.
Marty256
Well-known member
If you're speaking of the tool to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle I've always loosened the nut and hit the knuckle with a BFH. It distorts the tapered opening momentarily and allows the stud to drop down. This works on ball joints and drag and center links also. To remove the splined end of a pitman arm or the inner section of a rack tie rod yes use the appropriate tool.
Merkava_4
Banned
The OTC 7503 is the one I have my eye on. Not sure if I need it for removing the front axles, but I should probably have it on hand just in case.
Bobby B.
Well-known member
The TRE puller I was referring to looks just like the C-shaped pitman arm puller, just smaller. Works the same way.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...&categoryDisplayName=Tools&_requestid=1612652
OEM / Pitman Tie Rod Arm Puller
Price: $12.00
Part Number: 27022
Weight: 1.75 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Job Use: Steering and Suspension
Features & Benefits:
A smaller design than the OEM #27016. For use on Compact cars and smaller Pitman Arm. Yoke is forged and heat treated with a 2 1/16 in. opening.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...&categoryDisplayName=Tools&_requestid=1612652
OEM / Pitman Tie Rod Arm Puller
Price: $12.00
Part Number: 27022
Weight: 1.75 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Job Use: Steering and Suspension
Features & Benefits:
A smaller design than the OEM #27016. For use on Compact cars and smaller Pitman Arm. Yoke is forged and heat treated with a 2 1/16 in. opening.
That one looks promising. I'm gonna go out and measure later...
That one looks NICE. I like the anti slip design. Any idea on the min/max width? BMW tie rods have a dimple at the top of the stud. This one looks like it's flat. I wonder if it would be a problem.
volvo420coupe
Well-known member
Just get the five piece OTC or Astro Pneumatic front end service set. I have had my eyes on one of those for a while.
Merkava_4
Banned
I'm thinking it's a cup on the end with the ***** in the middle ... at least that's the way I hope it is.
I'm thinking it's a cup on the end with the ***** in the middle ... at least that's the way I hope it is.
Aah, you might be right.
How come the one OTC is almost as much as the whole set? Whole set not USA made vs ?
Merkava_4
Banned
You mean the one OTC puller verses the whole set from HF?
Autoace touched on this a while back ... he said you're paying for a lifetime warranty from OTC verses the 90 day from HF for the set.
myslow2002gt
Well-known member
My OTC 5-piece front end service set is USA made. Has a sticker right on it. 
alex71
Well-known member
That's always worked for me, and fast. TRE pullers just mangle the boot.
No I meant the one piece OTC vs. the whole OTC set. It's $100 for the set and something like $70 for the one tool. Seems better to buy the whole set unless is was a USA vs. China thing.
Here's an E30 strut housing...more than likely what I would be working on now most of the time. See how small those attachment points are? Scares me when I've wailed on them before. Looks like I will need a C shaped puller for these. The brake shield is way to close to swing a normal too around the other side.....even if the tool was narrow enough to grasp the bottom without slipping off.
Only thing I have that small is a pneumatic pickle fork for my air hammer .. most of my pullers (I have 4) are alot bigger than 1.25" ..
Nothing beats the Stahlwille tie rod tool. It looks like a little nutcracker thing, but it will break loose a tie rod 100% of the time, without ever tearing a boot.
http://www.stahlwille-online.de/ind...hid=&scmd=pdetail&pcid=7023&cid=7025&pid=7125
While this claims to be a ball joint tool, I've never found a ball joint it worked on. On tie rods, it's truely fantastic. I've had this tool for about 25 years, and used it on dozens of BMWs.
http://www.stahlwille-online.de/ind...hid=&scmd=pdetail&pcid=7023&cid=7025&pid=7125
While this claims to be a ball joint tool, I've never found a ball joint it worked on. On tie rods, it's truely fantastic. I've had this tool for about 25 years, and used it on dozens of BMWs.
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GDA
Well-known member
OTC front end service kit is the way to go.
Its taken care of several front end rebuilds on my and friends E34s, E36s and most recently an E46 and a 2001 Volvo S40. I have also used it on the track rods on my Land Rover Discovery.
If I am not going to replace the part I will use the OTC tool; otherwise its air hammer time.
Its taken care of several front end rebuilds on my and friends E34s, E36s and most recently an E46 and a 2001 Volvo S40. I have also used it on the track rods on my Land Rover Discovery.
If I am not going to replace the part I will use the OTC tool; otherwise its air hammer time.
Merkava_4
Banned
You mean the tie rod connects directly to the strut?
I think I'm lost now - I'm used to tie rods connecting to a steering knuckle - A.K.A. a spindle. I'm gonna wait for autoace to come rescue me from my confusion.
You mean the tie rod connects directly to the strut?
I think I'm lost now - I'm used to tie rods connecting to a steering knuckle - A.K.A. a spindle. I'm gonna wait for autoace to come rescue me from my confusion.
Strut tube, knuckle/spindle are one piece on this car.
If you need to replace the struts, off come the control arm (joint) and the tie rod end.
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I always thought those looked like an inferior design, with not enough pressure above the stud.
Last time it went on sale for $40.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882
or this one
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=99849
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882
or this one
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=99849
Merkava_4
Banned
Snappy is calling that a pitman arm puller; which is the same thing only wider. If that 7315A fits around the tie rod stud, it would work beautifully.
Merkava_4
Banned
You got room to use that 7503 ?
Nope. Anyway, you can't really use Stahlwille and inferior design in the same sentence. As a Bimmerhead, you should know that. When I raced BMWs years ago, I had to pull tierods off every other week to deal with suspension stuff, and this tool never failed once.
BTW, I got mine from a BMW specialty shop.
Hard to tell. I'd need dimensions.
You got room to use that 7503 ?
Not sure either.
Well, it's not their design really. I've seen it on countless other brands. What I meant was efficient design. I'm not doubting you, it just seems better to have the forces inline if you know what I mean.
OTC 6297
Tooltopia has the best price on the whole kit
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=8777
Tooltopia has the best price on the whole kit
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=8777
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GDA
Well-known member
^ that's the one in the set I've used to do it. Depending on location of the tie rod to other items, usually you will turn the wheel out to give just a bit more access and then on goes #6297. Couple turns and a pop.
Merkava_4
Banned
$108.99 for a genuine OTC set is hellava good deal!!
poorboy
Well-known member
I have used the 7315A for years and got in some pretty tight places with it. Works great and you can use it witout tearing the boot. Also if the tie rod is reaaly stubborn you can put some pressure on the stud and the hit the remover with a hammer and it will usually pop loose.
$108.99 for a genuine OTC set is hellava good deal!!
was actually less than that since i bought it off ebay with ebay bucks!
Got the kit the other day. Wow, that puller is bigger than I thought it was from the pictures.
Sadly, I don't see "USA" stamped anywhere on any of the tools or the case. It also does not say Made in xxxxx anywhere...unless I'm blind and/or they pulled a Class Act labeling scheme.
Either way, they tools look high quality, very beefy. Even the other pullers. Tons of heft to each of them. I see these lasting a while.
I'll snap some photos in use when I get the car of the lift (and my backordered parts show up).
Thanks!!!
Sadly, I don't see "USA" stamped anywhere on any of the tools or the case. It also does not say Made in xxxxx anywhere...unless I'm blind and/or they pulled a Class Act labeling scheme.
Either way, they tools look high quality, very beefy. Even the other pullers. Tons of heft to each of them. I see these lasting a while.
I'll snap some photos in use when I get the car of the lift (and my backordered parts show up).
Thanks!!!
wantedabiggergarage
Member Emeritus
LOL, that kit (OTC kit at Tooltopia) is also $20 less, at the same site, under the KD brand. I just picked up one tonight from one of my junk stores for $58.