Tier 1 Impact Driver Bits and Sawzall?

[joseywales]

In the process of tearing down my above ground pool and a 5 foot splash deck. (Anyone in PA want to purchase a 200K Natural Gas Raypak heater?)

SQ2 Bits - Anyway, I'm using Milwaukee Shockwave SQ2 impact bits to remove the decking. I've gone through 3 so far which seems like a lot, since we're talking about a 5x5 splash deck, with 3 steps. I've been mixing between 12V and 18V, but I've pulled maybe 50 screws, so I'm thinking there are better bits out there? Milwaukee Philips bits seem to be fine.

Sawzall- I did the demo with a Ryobi 18V Sawzall, using Bosch and Milwaukee blades. No complaints really. Cut through the posts and plates as well as I'd expect. Would an upgraded sawzall have made it easier, or is it really about the blades and this is as good as it gets? Faster demo would be nice, because the vibration on the hands is a killer. My Ryobi is new, but with the tight spaces I was in, its body took a bit of a beating.

 

[tyyost]

Going to do the “bits are consumables“ routine on the impact bits. What were you using to drive them? Impact or drill? I expect demo with screw removal to eat bits and blades. Square drive is great, but they get packed with junk over time, so cam out can happen in demo. You can always grind off a little off to restore them short term in a pinch.

Recip saws can easily be their own thread. Budget cordless is great for quick jobs, but for my money unless you are going pro that a good corded Milwaukee super sawzall or Makita LXT would be a good buy on Craigslist to FB marketplace. Dollar for dollar there’s no better deal on quality recip saws with a cord, and doing long demo the power and smoothness will be with the hassle of a cord.

 

[KnurledNut]

Are the screws strictly a square drive or a square & phillips combo? There is a specialty bit for the latter.
I have not had good success with Milwaukee SQ bits either.

Many will say its all about the blades, which does make a huge difference, but there is no question a high end recip will outwork its lesser counterparts.
Fleam ground blades, like pruning, will make short work of wood but do wear fast and are trashed if they hit metal.
I highly recommend any of the Diablo blades. The carbide offerings are pricey but in a league of their own for longevity.

 

[Rusted Nut]

To keep saws-all vibrations to minimum, keep the guard tight against what you are sawing, and find a speed that minimizes vibration.

 

[RTM]

Milwaukee for Sawzalls in my book. I’ve borrowed others, and the vibration sux. My Dewalt cordless comes out for little jobs, but 5e corded ones for all else.

 

[SRSemenza]

In the process of tearing down my above ground pool and a 5 foot splash deck. (Anyone in PA want to purchase a 200K Natural Gas Raypak heater?)

SQ2 Bits - Anyway, I'm using Milwaukee Shockwave SQ2 impact bits to remove the decking. I've gone through 3 so far which seems like a lot, since we're talking about a 5x5 splash deck, with 3 steps. I've been mixing between 12V and 18V, but I've pulled maybe 50 screws, so I'm thinking there are better bits out there? Milwaukee Philips bits seem to be fine.

Sawzall- I did the demo with a Ryobi 18V Sawzall, using Bosch and Milwaukee blades. No complaints really. Cut through the posts and plates as well as I'd expect. Would an upgraded sawzall have made it easier, or is it really about the blades and this is as good as it gets? Faster demo would be nice, because the vibration on the hands is a killer. My Ryobi is new, but with the tight spaces I was in, its body took a bit of a beating.

What's happening to the bits? Wearing out or breaking?

Seth

 

[dnschmidt]

If they are truly square drive (Robertson) use authentic Robertson bits which are two piece. Here's a link to two sources:
McFeeley's: https://www.mcfeelys.com/screw-fastener-web-store/driver-bits/square-drive.html
Lee Valley: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers/bits/57951-robertson-drive-bits

 

[tamaraw]

Vessel or Wiha will have better robertson bits.

But that seems like an excessive number of Milwaukee bits to go through for the number of screws you have pulled. Possibly operator error or maybe a defective product run?

 

[BFHtime]

I have a variable speed Milwaukee super Sawzall. It has been great, but if I was going to get one today, I would go with the Makita anti-vibe. I have heard good things.

 

[CJM8515]

i hate the milwaukee phillips bits, they constantly cammed out. the dewalt ones were way better

 

[subroc]

What does tier 1 mean?

 

[ItsNemo]

How often are you slipping the bits? I'm guessing pretty much all the time? I've driven and removed thousands of screws with Dewalt #2 square bits without destroying them using an impact driver and the'yre perfectly fine. In fact, they often bite so hard I can hang the drill off of them:

 

[dnschmidt]

Another possibility is that he's trying to work with Plated Exterior Screws which because of the coating reduce the size of the square drive. Look up the McFeeley's page I provided and you will see that they offer undersized bits to allow for the plating on the exterior screws. I'm not a fan of MIlwaukee's bits but they aren't that bad for him to be going through them at that clip.

 

[joseywales]

I should have clarified.

Square bits were single impact bits, not a combo with philips. They just round off at the edges after some use. Consumable, I get. But since I have to replaced them, I was looking for better, if it exists.

The philips were the impact combos

I was using my 12V Surge impact and the 18V impact. I feather the trigger on the 18V as best as possible and can't say I'm disappointed with it at all.

As far as the sawzall, it was difficult to place it flush with the cutting surface, since I am preserving most of the deck, so a lot of weird angle cuts. Cordoless is nice, but I might seek out a used power sawzall. I actually have one, but it simply wouldn't run. I have to look more closely, because even though I bought it use, I know it ran when I did.

 

[joseywales]

What does tier 1 mean?

= the best.

 

[joseywales]

OK. So, I tossed all screws, etc., into a box and I was just checking them out. Of the 3 square bits I used, only one is badly rounded off, unusable. Another is usable and the third is still good to go. I checked the fit in the screws, with the best of the bits, and it's a nice snug fit. The only plated screws (good to know BTW), were the screws for the gate lock. So that explains why they cammed out, but they came out with only a bit of effort.

It is possible that I ruined the one bit with the 18V, trying to run out some rusted screws, with too much torque. it'd be nice of that 18 was adjustable like the 12s.

 

[tamaraw]

OK. So, I tossed all screws, etc., into a box and I was just checking them out. Of the 3 square bits I used, only one is badly rounded off, unusable. Another is usable and the third is still good to go. I checked the fit in the screws, with the best of the bits, and it's a nice snug fit. The only plated screws (good to know BTW), were the screws for the gate lock. So that explains why they cammed out, but they came out with only a bit of effort.

It is possible that I ruined the one bit with the 18V, trying to run out some rusted screws, with too much torque. it'd be nice of that 18 was adjustable like the 12s.

Glad to hear that they are still usable!

Rounded means that you are spinning it without proper engagement.

"Too much torque" would simply twist or shear the bit... although that's unlikely removing wood screws.